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It finally begins! The UXL-18 Build - Page 2

post #31 of 251
Thread Starter 
Project update. Made a ghetto router table to cut the pvc and round over the bracing. Everything came out great buuuuuuut unfortunately after finishing one of the longer pvc pieces I dropped it and cracked the end so I gotta get another one...




post #32 of 251
Thread Starter 
More updates!

I cut out the circle for the terminal on the back...which took a few attempts. Thankfully I did some dry runs first. Parts express said the cutout was 2-7/8 but it's actually 3 inches. The backside has a slight bevel that starts at 2-7/8 but no way are you fitting the whole thing in a hole that size



I did some test fitting for the front pieces and before figuring out how to do it I took a chunk out of the back dado with one of my clapms mad.gif. Gonna have to fill that in later. When I got the two aligned I used some 1/8" guide pins to line them up. It works perfect. I only got the 4 port holes cut out. I need to make a little jig to cut the 18.5" hole for the driver since the jasper jig I have only goes to 18-3/16



I spent yesterday trimming up some pieces to make sure everything fits snug. Here is a pic of the bracing in the box with the back attached. I therw in one of the 180 sections of the ports so you can see how it fits



Some tips that I learned on this phase. If you need to line up pieces, use some dowel rods, they are awesome and help a ton.

Also, with the jasper jig if the drill hole on the piece you are cutting is slightly off don't worry! Despite using a punch one of the pilot holes I drilled was about 1/16th off...I had a bunch of crazy ideas cooked up (including cutting out a hole in another sheet and , template cutting it) but came up with a great solution:

Make the hole in the piece you are cutting a little larger than is necessary. Put the pin in the sacrifice piece (below what you are cutting) and align the center of the hole in the piece you want to cut. Clamp the pieces together. Now you can setup like you would normally and the jig will use the hole sacrificial piece to keep it centered.

Also, I don't have a spring loaded plunge router, the router I have you rotate the base and it locks in place at a certain depth. Locking this in place can cause it to move a bit and screw up the hole. A good trick I found (you will need a speed controller or a router with variable speeds), start on a low speed and plunge the router to the required depth and turn off the router. Secure it at it's current depth and turn the speed controller to the lowest setting. Turn it on and slowly build up speed until you are at your desired cutting speed and start going. I don't know if all routers will require this, but mine did since on startup, if you give it full juice it certainly torques a bit and will mess up the hole a bit.

Oh ya, something I recently discovered, not only were the two pieces of mdf I got 3/4" of an inch. They both weren't even the same thickness! mad.gif

One was about 1/32 OVER 11/16 and the other was 1/32 UNDER 11/16...Thankfully I happened to go with the bigger one so I can sand off the small difference...but still annoying
post #33 of 251
Nice work! Any consideration about tying the bracing together? Like in the direction of woofer displacment. Hard to change plans now I imagine as you will loose internal volume.
post #34 of 251
Thread Starter 
I actually have 8 pieces cut out that I could run front to back if I wanted to but I don't think it will be necessary. It's pretty stiff as it is.
post #35 of 251
Thread Starter 
Unfortunately someone hit my car earlier this week (and obviously took off...) which pretty much put the brakes on everything...

Finally got some work done. I finished up the front bracing cutouts:

I cut the circles out of the front panel last week and template cut the plywood backing using that. The plywood actually didn't trim nearly as well as I thought it would (or as easy as the MDF did) so the cutouts aren't that great. They won't be seen though so it's not an issue.


I had better luck cutting out the baffle though


Cutting out the front panel. I had to make my own circle jig since the jasper jig I had could only cut up to 18-3/16 (and the UXL with the gasket needs an 18.5 inch cutout)




Test fit of what the front will look like when the speaker is done. Looks menacing biggrin.gif


Lined back up (using the alignment pins) and put back on the front of the box for a dry fit.

Edited by hotsho111 - 8/31/13 at 10:47pm
post #36 of 251
Looks awesome man!!! How are you going to finish it?
post #37 of 251
Thread Starter 
II was going to try the dayton audio black ash laminate, until I had a better space to finish it, but that stuff isn't available anymore.

The current plan (which I was going to do eventually) was iron on white ash veneer which I am then going to paint to get a black ash finish: 2 coats black primer, 2 coats semi gloss black and 1 or 2 coats of clear. I'm going to build a rig that bolts to the front so I can paint all 6 sides at once

I still gotta round over the box corners (no idea how I'm gonna do that once it's assembled hah).

While I'm getting close to it, here are my ideas for a grill. I already have the cloth

1). A round grill that covers the speaker only (leaving the ports and the remainder of the front open
2). A grill that covers the entire front (similar to the PB-13 Ultra).

Either would be held on with magnets.

If I went with option A (which is what I'm leaning toward), I had the crazy idea of making 4 small grills that cover the 4 port openings as well haha
post #38 of 251
Sound great man. I'm no good at veneer so I'll either use duratex or take it to my work and paint it with auto paint. Which is sweet since I have all the tools needed to make a top quality gloss job very easy to do.
post #39 of 251
Thread Starter 
Ya, I've never veneered anything so we'll see how that goes. I wish I had somewhere better to paint it but even if I did, it's too big to fit in my car hah.
post #40 of 251
Very nice build, great work! I can see you have put much energy and thought into it and the planning out. If I’m not mistaken I think it was back in your first post that you mentioned you were planning on routering the veneer after it was in place. That’ll work out fine but it’s kind of scary. I had a bushing go out or stick once on the shank and left a big burn mark 8-10” long before I noticed it. So I’m just recommending that you keep an eye on things as you go and not take the bit for granted.

EDIT> Might I ask what you plan on lining the inside of the enclosure with if any?
Edited by steve nn - 9/1/13 at 12:01pm
post #41 of 251
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the tip steve. I actually thought about that and contacted Freud already as the one of the bearings on my flush trim but doesn't spin that smoothly. I'm waiting for the new one to come in. I was gonna run blue tape along both sides though to try and limit damage from the router base or the bearing. Granted, I have had painter's tape pull up grain so hopefully tests work well.

I hadn't planned on lining the inside, but once everything is completely done and ready for assembly I'm going to glue together 80% of it (probably everything except the top and back) and start running some tests from there to make sure there aren't any major issues.

I had thought about lining the inside though.
post #42 of 251
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotsho111 View Post

Thanks for the tip steve. I actually thought about that and contacted Freud already as the one of the bearings on my flush trim but doesn't spin that smoothly. I'm waiting for the new one to come in. I was gonna run blue tape along both sides though to try and limit damage from the router base or the bearing. Granted, I have had painter's tape pull up grain so hopefully tests work well.

I hadn't planned on lining the inside, but once everything is completely done and ready for assembly I'm going to glue together 80% of it (probably everything except the top and back) and start running some tests from there to make sure there aren't any major issues.

I had thought about lining the inside though.

Great! sounds like you’re on top of it. Really looking forward to seeing your finished project.
post #43 of 251
Thread Starter 
Quick question, what do you generally use to fill mdf? I'm going to be veneering over the mdf (using the glue+iron method) so I'm not sure that would throw any wrenches into the plan

I don't have much to fill, but when doing some test fitting My clamp took out a small chunk of mdf:



I was also thinking of filling in any small edges although I don't think it's really necessary.

Anyone have any recommendations for filling mdf? I tried finding that piece that broke off but haven't had much luck.

I was going to dry using dap crackshot. I've also seen some bondo recommendations. I've used bondo before but man, sanding it is a bitch (granted this was bondo-glass not regular bondo).
post #44 of 251
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotsho111 View Post

Quick question, what do you generally use to fill mdf? I'm going to be veneering over the mdf (using the glue+iron method) so I'm not sure that would throw any wrenches into the plan

I don't have much to fill, but when doing some test fitting My clamp took out a small chunk of mdf:



I was also thinking of filling in any small edges although I don't think it's really necessary.

Anyone have any recommendations for filling mdf? I tried finding that piece that broke off but haven't had much luck.

I was going to dry using dap crackshot. I've also seen some bondo recommendations. I've used bondo before but man, sanding it is a bitch (granted this was bondo-glass not regular bondo).

standard Elmer's wood filler works wonders
post #45 of 251
I have mixed glue with MDF dust also, although I like the wood filler better.
post #46 of 251
I always use bondo but wood filler would work just fine as well.
post #47 of 251
Thread Starter 
Saw that coming N8, saw an old thread where you said you used bondo for everything :P

Would bondo or wood filler have issues with glue/heat (since I'm going to be veneering the speaker)?

I might go with wood filler just cause it's a lot easier to deal with than bondo.
post #48 of 251
I like Duhrams Rock Hard water putty for filling larger defects. It doesn't shrink, sands well, and every glue I have ever tried sticks to it. Some glues don's stick well to bondo and I have had some delamination with it in the past. if I have to do a really thin coat (where bondo is great), I will mix mdf saw dust with some wood glue and slop it on thick and then sand it smooth. It takes a while but I would rather spend time sanding then fixing a bubble in the veneer when I am finishing.
post #49 of 251
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotsho111 View Post

Saw that coming N8, saw an old thread where you said you used bondo for everything :P

Would bondo or wood filler have issues with glue/heat (since I'm going to be veneering the speaker)?

I might go with wood filler just cause it's a lot easier to deal with than bondo.

Bondo no issued with heat that I've ever encountered, I'm not sure about wood filler but I really doubt it with only the heat from an iron.
I do use bondo for everything but it's part of my job and I have all the proper air tools to sand it off and straight.
post #50 of 251
Thread Starter 
Small update.


Spent some time doing all the layout for the port mount holes (which you can't really see) as well as centering the speaker


Figured I needed a new tool and I had a bunch of holes to drill soooooo, I got a drill press hah. This was my setup for using the press


I didn't get a chance to drill the speaker mount holes because they call for a 7mm bit. The closet bits I have to that are 1/4 and 5/16. The 1/4 hole is a bit too small for how close it is to the edge of the plywood and I don't think the 5/16th hole would be as strong.

Gonna head to the store tomorrow to see if I can find a closer bit (17/64th or 9/32)
post #51 of 251
If there is a fastenal in you area they would probably have the 7mm bit. McMaster has quick shipping too if you want to just order it. Now that you have a drill press, though, you need a nice cobalt steel bit index.
post #52 of 251
Thread Starter 
I ended up going to a hardware store and getting a 9/32 bit (which is 7.14 mm) which is fine since the pieces were so close to the edge the oversized hole might help with tearout (which I still got a bit).

Also, since the 10-32 inserts had a pretty aggressive taper on them I actually drilled two holes. I drilled a 7/32 hole (I think, it was either that, 3/16th or 1/4...but I forget) all the way through to handle the screw, then from the backside I drilled the 9/32 hole the depth of the insert.

After that I inserted the screws through the speaker and baffle on the front and got the inserts started on the backside:



I then unbolted the speaker and finished threading the inserts into the wood (I got a good bit more splintering than I did in my test pieces, but I think it should be ok).

After that I bolted the speaker back up to the baffle tightly and 1 by 1, screwed out the inserts, covered them in glue, and screwed them back in and tightened down the screws:


Here's the finished product drying (I had the gasket on this time when screwing everything together:


You'll notice all the holes in the baffle too. I am going to screw the port mount inserts into the mdf but wanted to drill through the plywood in case for any reason I needed access to them. After I did it though, I realized the holes are too small and I wouldn't be able to unscrew the inserts...whoops. Not sure if I'm just gonna say F it, widen them, or just screw the inserts into the plywood (this would require me getting much longer screws than I had planned though)

The nice thing about where I am now is I don't need to use the router so I can get work done during the week.
post #53 of 251
Thread Starter 
Got all the inserts screwed into the front panel for the ports.

I picked up a good tip online to help keep the screws straight: screw them in using the drill press!


I actually did several experiments to see the best method for gluing these:
1). Just screwing in the insert (control)
2). Covering the insert with glue then screwing it in. This isn't too bad but a lot of the glue gets squeezed out.
2). Lining the hole with glue, letting it dry completely, then threading in the insert with glue. This caused the mdf to tear a bit since it was harder for the insert to grab the wood
3). Lining the hole with glue and immediately inserting the insert. This was by far the strongest and it makes sense: none of the glue would be squeezed out and the glue would harden in the thread gaps to strengthen the screwed area. The only thing you need to be careful of is that you don't get glue in the threads. Two of the 16 screws had enough glue in the threads that when I tried to run a bolt through it broke them loose. I just repeated the process and made sure all the glue was cleared out

I got all the ports screwed in (went amazingly well). Finally starting to do some test fits with the ports:


It's gonna be pretty packed inside that box


In the second pic you can see on the upper left tube I have some rubber lined loop clamps. I'm going to secure the tube using those clamps.

I also got some sample NBL and 10mil ash samples from formwood.

One quick question for everyone. These are my plans for grills:
1). One circular grill that will just cover the actual speaker (held on with magnets). I have a crazy addition to this of adding grills to cover the 4 ports as well
2). A square grill that covers the entire front (this will also be held on with magnets).

Anyone have any thoughts on either idea?
post #54 of 251
One large square grill held on by magnets.

If you would have set the speaker back and just put a flush grill on that and now covered the ports that would have looked cool too.
post #55 of 251
I personally would like the one grill to cover everything but thats just me. I generally don't even like grills, I like neked drivers....tongue.gif
post #56 of 251
Thread Starter 
Ya, I would much rather not use the grills (same with my main speakers) but I have a dog and I'd rather not take any chances

I might end up trying both and seeing how they look.

I think covering just the speaker and leaving the rest exposed would look really cool.
post #57 of 251
Thread Starter 
Slowly getting there. Got almost all of the inserts set up (front and back panel are done) and everything fits great. Still working on test fitting the ports, but going pretty good so far. I cut some 1-1/4x1-1/4 inch squares which will hold an insert that the loop clamp will screw into

Question for everyone on feet. I picked up a set of the Dayton Audio DRFS1 feet (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=240-712&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla)

I haven't drilled holes for them yet, but should I even use feet?
post #58 of 251
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotsho111 View Post

Slowly getting there. Got almost all of the inserts set up (front and back panel are done) and everything fits great. Still working on test fitting the ports, but going pretty good so far. I cut some 1-1/4x1-1/4 inch squares which will hold an insert that the loop clamp will screw into

Question for everyone on feet. I picked up a set of the Dayton Audio DRFS1 feet (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=240-712&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla)

I haven't drilled holes for them yet, but should I even use feet?

That’s going to be your call, but if it were my decision I wouldn’t even consider it. Your project and work are looking great!.. VERY nice job.
Quote:
picked up a good tip online to help keep the screws straight: screw them in using the drill press!

That is a good tip if a guy decides to go that route, it would really help.
post #59 of 251
depends on what you are trying to accomplish coupling or not. some folks go in the opposite direction and use foam feat: http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Subwoofer-Isolation-15x15x3-inch-Charcoal/dp/B001140OZ0
post #60 of 251
Thread Starter 
Ya, I had considered going the foam root.

I was thinking of at least putting in the inserts so that I could try feet (or spikes) and if I wanted to use foam feet I could just leave a screw in the hole.

The place I currently live is completely carpeted.
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