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It finally begins! The UXL-18 Build - Page 3

post #61 of 260
Awesome build!

Way cool!. I am looking forward to hearing your impressions. Nice job!
post #62 of 260
I don’t like this build at all, you’re making some of us look bad. I would throw the works in the old scrap heap! tongue.gif
post #63 of 260
Thread Starter 
Haha. I'm looking forward to listening to it.

Small update. I'm still working on fitting/securing the ports but I finally got it figured out. It's tricky to work in since the space is so tight.

I took everything out and worked on the fitment of all the ports to make sure they were the same:

Fitting the 180 turn on the ports: 12" (from edge of opening to edge of opening), just as it was drawn up biggrin.gif




I decided to cut out a couple 1-1/4x1-1-1/4 squares to screw the loop clamps into. I first cut the hole for the insert to fit into, then I used a forstner bit to counter sink the flanged end so it was flush (since they are going to be the side up against the speaker wall:



I cut out 11, a couple were bad, and I went to town doing some tests and before I realized it...I ran out haha. Gotta cut a few more

Also, since I'm crazy, I may round over the sides...cause why not.

I still haven't decided which way I'm gonna go with the grill, so this weekend I might just go ahead and make both. If I go with the full front grill I need to install the magnets first so they are underneath the veneer.

I'm also still on the edge with the feet, but I think I'm gonna install the inserts so I at least have the option to use them in the future although I may just end up going with the foam base option.

Almost got everything in a row and hopefully I'll be gluing it up soon. My plan for that is to glue up the bottom, sides, front and braces then clamp on the back and top so I can test it out a bit to make sure nothing is crazy out of whack

Wait till you see what I got cooked up for my crazy painting rig haha
post #64 of 260
Thread Starter 
Hey, quick question for everyone. I got the port layout all set and it's juuuuuuuuuust about time to start gluing.
I'
I'm still deciding on what to do about feet. I bought some rubber feet and I was going to install the inserts and if I needed to I could swap between the rubber feet and spikes (I don't have any yet).

The speaker is probably going to weigh between 150-200 pounds when it's done and I could see 4 inserts not being able to hold the weight if I went with spikes. I don't see the rubber feet I have having that problem though as the screw is used more to hold it in place than to support any weight.

The speaker is (currently) going to be on carpet. If I can't use spikes is it worth installing the inserts? If it ends up on a hard floor I'm not sure if I'd go with the rubber feet or foam
post #65 of 260
That’s your call.. The way your project is constructed, size and weight I see no need myself. You can always place on a throw-rug to your likening if you do find yourself placing it on a hard wood floor. Having the rubber feet on it for the rug serves no purpose except only to make it harder to move in finding the best place for it. It won’t slide with the feet like it will without. The rubber feet on ID subs are generally so small (if it has them) that they don’t do anything but sink into the carpet. Foam feet are nothing but a placebo (good for not scratching a wood floor though) like expensive speaker wire. It’s the sound pressure waves that make things rattle not your sub shaking or wobbling around. When your sub is playing put your hand on it and see what you come up with. Anyway If you want the option, by all means place the inserts.
Edited by steve nn - 9/29/13 at 3:53pm
post #66 of 260
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the feedback. One of the things I did figure out is that spikes/feat/foam only really help with stability (preventing walking). I'm not looking at them for any sound voodoo.

I just don't know if I'd want to leave it flat on the carpet (no idea why though). Maybe the feet help class it up in my crazy mind haha

Anyway, small update. Since I couldn't decide which grill I want to go to I'm probably gonna to a dry fit of both and see which I like. I cut out the square grill and circle grill. The circle grill fits perfectly in the baffle. One tricky thing though was I was planning on using the screws that hold the speaker on to secure the grill (using magnets/dowels). To give the cone some breathing room though I made the disk not quite flush to the cone, but I cut the inner circle a bit big so it actually doesn't completely cover the screw holes (so the dowel might be tricky.

Anyway, here are pics of the circle grill:
The outside circle:


The inside one:


Like a crazy person I decided to round over the corners on the small inserts that the port loop clamps will screw into:


aaaaaaaand a pic of everything (the full front grill frame, the circle grill frame and the port squares):



I also tried out the 3/4" roundover bit so I could do some veneer testing.

Still gotta figure out what I'm gonna do with the feet :\, but I can finally start gluing some stuff together!
post #67 of 260
Your sub is built to stout to where it is going to walk, but if you think it will class it up some I can see that. It’ll be interesting to see what you come up with. Nice work and nice first jig. cool.gif
post #68 of 260
Thread Starter 
Small update (life getting in the way of things).

Glued the loop clamp mounts into place and marked up the points where the bracing is going to slide into.

I'm leaning towards NBL (white ash) for the plywood.

The glue plan is to glue the sides to the bottom, glue in the braces, then the baffle/front. I'm going to leave the top and back unglued and clamp everything up and do some test runs with the speaker. This way if something goes wrong I might have some chance fixing it

Still haven't quite decided whether or not to install the inserts for feet.
post #69 of 260
Thread Starter 
Mini update...bunch of life getting in the way!

Marked everything up for final assembly and was working on the final dryfit and it turns out I don't have enough hands.

I was putting up the sides, which have small blocks glued to them with threaded inserts for attaching the loop clamps for the pipes. I got one side up and was putting up the other side, when the original side fell over and was juuuuuuust long enough to rip off one of the blocks on the other side. Glue held up great, mdf split off mad.gif. Of course, I got super mad so I decided to throw something to cool off ...which immediately bounced off a wall and came straight back towards me and hit the wood and left a small mark...It was kinda funny so it actually cheered me up a bit.

Anyway, glued that back on and it seems to be ok. Here is a picture of it:


Finished with the rest of the dry fit:



I still need to throw the ports in 1 more time but I'm still not in the best mood so I'm gonna call it a day.

I at least decided I am gonna install the feet inserts because I need that extra sharp bass response that rubber feet provide. Hah, just kidding, I know feet don't do anything. I'm doing it to help prevent walking and since the sub is gonna be so heavy I'm gonna have to drag it to move it so it will help protect the bottom.

Hoping to start gluing it up soon
post #70 of 260
Lookin' good!

I assume there are more front to back braces going in for the baffle and back panel?
Edited by jpmst3 - 10/11/13 at 10:05am
post #71 of 260
Love those braces! next build can I send you dimensions? rolleyes.gif
Quote:
I need that extra sharp bass response that rubber feet provide. Hah, just kidding biggrin.gif

your're an ok guy wink.gif
post #72 of 260
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

Love those braces!
+1, but what about the back?
post #73 of 260
Thread Starter 
Steve, I've thought about opening my own shop. I don't mind cutting/building but man I haaaaaaaate finishing. Also, I'm not sure if the precision is there for commercial work:



That was supposed to be 1.5 inches...slacking wink.gif

Also, Bill, can't tell if you were being sarcastic or not (oh, the internet), but here is a picture of the back. It's pretty boring, just the terminal and a bunch of fingerprints


Look at that gap at the bottom right!

I'm gonna do some test pieces and see what the terminal and front port mounts look like completely flush mounted or partially recessed
post #74 of 260
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotsho111 View Post

Steve, I've thought about opening my own shop. I don't mind cutting/building but man I haaaaaaaate finishing. Also, I'm not sure if the precision is there for commercial work:



That was supposed to be 1.5 inches...slacking wink.gif

Also, Bill, can't tell if you were being sarcastic or not (oh, the internet), but here is a picture of the back. It's pretty boring, just the terminal and a bunch of fingerprints

I believe that Bill was asking about the lack of bracing on the large back panel
post #75 of 260
Quote:
but what about the back?

Yeah good point Bill.. I was so busy looking at the 6 point bracing that it totally slipped by me.

Yip your going to need to address the back Hot. A couple laterals or horizontals (or one L and one H) will do the trick, but it's looking really good!
Edited by steve nn - 10/11/13 at 9:07pm
post #76 of 260
Thread Starter 
I'm not exactly sure what you mean. Space is pretty tight back there so I'm not sure how much bracing I can add.

I wouldn't need to run something all the way to the front would I? I tried to see if there was something I could add but there isn't enough room. I should be able to fit something vertical in the center or horizontal in the center of the rear bracing. The remainder of that area is pretty much filled with port.

Is it just to due to the fact its a large unbraced panel?

The back piece is dado'd in place and isn't just a flat butt joint (not sure how much that will help).


I posted this earlier but it should give you an idea of the available space in the box

Edit: Actually running something vertical might be tricky because around the center of the back of the rear brace there are 4 of those small blocks glued to the brace
post #77 of 260
Can you run just a simple vertical with a cutout for the terminal down the back with edge out? that would be a big help.

EDIT>You would fasten to the back panel of course but the top and bottom also, say 3-4” deep using your 3/4 MDF. Glue and screw..
Edited by steve nn - 10/11/13 at 11:07pm
post #78 of 260
I love this build but I hate the terminal cups, not just on your sub, just in general. They are soooo cheap and you have such a nice build. Have you ever though about using a speak-on connection on the back? or really good quality binding posts? i've done the cheap cup and always regret doing it. I use speak-on's now and all you need is a 1" hole say for the terminal. You've put so much work into your sub and it's quality and craftsmanship is really great, IMO it would just be the icing on the cake to use really good quality parts.

speak-on http://www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/speakon-chassis-connectors/speakon-chassis-connectors/ Both the male and female would be about $10 for both.

binding posts and plate http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=091-600
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=091-624
post #79 of 260
+1 on the Speakon,

.. flat, somewhat recessed, isn't susceptible to being broken, etc, the visual aesthetic spans both the pro and hifi genre.
post #80 of 260
Thread Starter 
Still not exactly sure what you mean Steve hah

Here is a pic of what the back looks like:

Those little squares are for securing the loop clamps for the ports

I can fit some vertical or horizontal bracing something like this would fit (I would need to make the piece around the look clamps a bit smaller):

I could also make that an h pattern as well

Were you referring to gluing something flush to the back piece that runs vertically or horizontally along it like this? (Ignore the lazyness avoiding the terminal cutout)


N8, I thought about using speakon but decided against it. I'm using my own home made cables for all the speakers I have using banana plugs and wanted to keep that consistent.

I went with that particular terminal because It was most similar to what my other speakers had. That anodized plate in black does look really sharp though.

Joe, I wasn't planning on adding any more bracing than what you see in that picture. I didn't think I needed it. I did try seeing if I could add in any horizontal bracing and there isn't really any room for it.
post #81 of 260
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotsho111 View Post

I'm not exactly sure what you mean. Space is pretty tight back there so I'm not sure how much bracing I can add. I wouldn't need to run something all the way to the front would I?
That would be best. Obviously you can't put a brace to where the driver is, but a direct connection from the middle of the back to somewhere on the front would be best.
post #82 of 260
Thread Starter 
Hmm, I had an older thread about the design and after updating to the current bracing (I got the suggestion then from you Bill) I had several people say the bracing would be fine.

I had looked at running some horizontal pieces from the back to the front but they would need to be within a few inches of the sides (for clearance reasons) so I didn't think they would add much support.

Kinda late in the design now so I'm not really sure what to do now....
post #83 of 260
You could add 1" dowel rods from front to back, it wouldn't take up any extra room and get the job done. I personally think it will be fine though.
post #84 of 260
Thread Starter 
I did cut out a couple pieces with the thought of running them from the back to the front, but since they would be so close to the edge I didn't think they would add any strength.

I can add up to 8 if necessary, but I wouldn't really be able to get anything connected to the center of the back panel

Edit: If I add some horizontal bracing should I try gluing them to the vertical bracing or would it not really matter?
Edited by hotsho111 - 10/12/13 at 7:37pm
post #85 of 260
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotsho111 View Post


Do this but make the MDF strips 2-3" tall and stand them on edge so that they act as frame rails for that big flat back panel. Anything tying the front baffle to the back panel would have to be > shaped to be effective and that would interfere with your window bracing and ports, so, it's not feasible.

The + shaped brace you have in the picture will work fine. If you want to use less material then taper them so that they are 3" tall in center of the panel and 0" tall at the corners. Think triangular bridge trusses.

And don't sweat it. It's an easy enough fix. cool.gif
Edited by nograveconcern - 10/12/13 at 6:54pm
post #86 of 260
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotsho111 View Post

I wouldn't really be able to get anything connected to the center of the back panel
Connect the center of the back to the center of the matrix in front of it, that in turn to the matrix in front of it, and that to the baffle with four braces straddling the driver.
post #87 of 260
I'll go try to find a pic of what I was suggesting.
post #88 of 260
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

Connect the center of the back to the center of the matrix in front of it, that in turn to the matrix in front of it, and that to the baffle with four braces straddling the driver.

The optimal 4 spots on the back panel for this are right where the ports make their 180 degree bend.

Alternatively, placing them at the 4 + points in the image below, the pieces that tie the matrices together would have to space progressively closer to the side walls as they get closer to the driver, placing the last set basically against the side walls.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotsho111 View Post

post #89 of 260
Although it's very simple, it is very strong because it is attached to the top, back and bottom and on edge to give you the most strength. Not very fancy I admit, but very functional and will be a big help to your enclosure although no horizontal brace. I’m talking about the brace that just runs along the bottom of the enclosure, not the upright. So the bottom of this pic would be your back.

post #90 of 260
Thread Starter 
Looks like Steve and grave are on the same page.

I do have some strips cut out that I can run from front to back (like N8 suggested with dowels). I'm not sure if I should glue those to the vertical braces or just run them front to back. They would still be pretty close to the edge though.

Bill, I can see connecting the rear brace to the rear panel and the front brace to the front panel but there isn't anywhere in the center I can connect the two braces (without getting too close to the internal port openings). They would need to be connected near the sides/top/bottom walls, which I don't think would really be any help.

In the meantime, thanks for all the advice everyone. I'm sure we'll figure something out hah.
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