Originally Posted by ack_bk
Yes, well when I crank things up you can really feel the bass. All the way upstairs (2 story house with entertainment area in the basement). I enjoy building things and had not built any speakers or subs before and it was a fun project last winter.
Concerning your heat issue on the 2nd floor. I have a refurbished Denon receiver that would sometimes have issues when it was on for extended periods (typically over 3 hours). It would sometimes shut off and go into protect mode. I picked up a fan from these guys and it has not shutdown since even when running for 5+ hours straight. They have fans that are near silent and my guess is that if you can mount one on or near your projector you will not have heat issues or fan noise anymore. This is the one I picked up:
Building subs does sound like a fun project! Nice work!
Thanks for the info and links. I don't know for a fact it shut down from heat, I think it also has a auto-shutdown if there is no input for a certain time?
Originally Posted by hardcore
If one has the flexibility, do you get a better picture with zoom or no zoom for the same size screen?
Also, when putting together your home theater, do you mount the screen or the projector first. I'm having a hard time figuring out how to match them up perfectly.
HC - I've set up 7 different front projection systems in a wide variety of room shapes, with various screens and mounts. The latest one was the easiest, but I still spent 8+ hours measuring, sketching (graph paper), measuring, experimenting with the projector on a coffee table shooting on different walls at different heights etc before drilling the first hole.
Are you ceiling mounting? Have you already bought a screen?
Assuming you're ceiling mounting and you have some flexibility on the screen size and exactly location, first try out various image sizes and projector locations. Somewhere in the middle of the zoom range is a good place to be i.e. not within ~15% of either extreme of the range if possible. Use some lo-tac painters tape to roughly mark the corners of the image, and center line left/right.
When you've got the image size where you want it figure out the type of mount you'll need to locate the projector lens at the proper height. Then, again measuring carefully from square walls and checking with non-stretching string from the top corners, mount the projector. Note that the 131's lens is slightly offset so the mount will need to be a few inches off from the center of the image.
Once you get the projector mounted and wired (just need a power cable to get light and the test-grid) carefully align it so the sides are square and top and bottom image width are the same, same with the left/right edges. Using a a string and weight i.e. plumb bob held against the wall to check with the grid pattern is a fool proof was to confirm that the 'roll angle' is correct.
Once the projector is squared up, then you can move the tape marks to the exact corners of the image. Depending on the size of the border on the screen, careful measuring (sketches help me greatly) will tell you where to screen in the mounts.
After all this, you may still be a 1/4" or so 'off', but if it's a fixed screen with a 3" black velvet border like my 110" Elite from Amazon the border "sucks up" any overspill and you'll never notice it.
If you take your time and think it through it will pay off!
Here are some pics of my current set-up for reference: