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Optoma HD131Xe, HD (1080p), 2500 ANSI Lumens, 3D-Home Theater Projector - Sub $800 New Budget King? - Page 13

post #361 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by mconigs78 View Post

What ceiling mount is everyone using? I have my media room that is 14wide by 17 deep. ju9eza2e.jpg. Below is the picture I think in the middle the ceiling is about 10 feet


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Your room is similar in size and the same 10' height as mine, and I plan on getting this mount (and an HDMI cable) with the $50 Amazon credit:
http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Projector-Ceiling-Bracket-PJ2W/dp/B000IDC0K2/ref=pd_sim_e_37

28" max drop, + maybe 2" from top of projector to center of lens, + 9" from lens to top of 120" screen (which will just cover the large window in the room) gives me just a bit more drop than necessary for a level mounting.

According to Amazon reviews it works with the HD25, and while not in the same league as a $150 Chief Mount it does the job.

What's everyone else using?

What kind of seating do you have planned for that room?
I'm looking at a large sectional for mine, which could comfortably seat up to 6. Love the reclining "theater" sofas but they're not so good for snuggling with dogs/wife and/or entertaining more than a couple people.
post #362 of 2566

Yeah that's ~$15 cheaper than Amazon (and no tax, apparently even in Amazon-taxable states like TX?), but do you think Buydig as good with returns/exchanges as Amazon?
I'd personally gladly spend $15 more for Amazon's great return policy. YMMV
post #363 of 2566
Yea I have been watching it on buydig. I like buydig so I can use paypal.

This is the seat or couch that I am using. It's an over sized love seat with full power recline lay flat. eturanyg.jpg

I have an old futon that I am putting on one of the side walls for others to sit. I still need speakers, a receiver and some fans for the corners it gets hot. This is off the projector topic but anyone have or listen to the andrew jones pioneer speakers?


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post #364 of 2566
I bought mine from buydig on Thursday for 785 plus 12 bucks for two day shipping.... got it yesterday (wed) keep that in mind...

As far as fan noise... its only noticeable when I listen for it in dynamic mode because the pitch changes... keep in mind this supposedly has a longer bulb life with dynamic on vs reg economic mode. The way some have commented I was expecting it to sound much louder... but then there's a lot of people here that are very particular... the fan is not as loud or noticeable as my HD 66. Honestly my salt water reef tank in the next room makes more noise so...
I'm very impressed with picture quality over both my hd65 and hd66. Black level is definitely better than both and contrast is great. Brilliant color works better with less tradeoffs than the older models. (I keep mind at 3 so far)
In 3d mode you can create a 3d preset and pump the contrast up. So far I have seen no negative effects on picture quality in 3d mode from doing this. Wish I would have known about this purchase a month ago when I bought the $100 3d converter on eBay which I guess I can use at my cabin outdoors with my hd66 still.
I have noticed slight wripples in my screen now because of the added brightness but this can only be seen in a white screen background.
I am using the graphics gamma for more Shadow detail.
Edited by augiedoggy - 10/3/13 at 5:23am
post #365 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

Ok both my 120hz and 144hz glasses work great now...had to change from default of vesa mode under 3d options... also noticed 3d had ghosting when viewing in 24hz 1080p mode.... changed ouptput to 60hz and ghosting disappeared and 3d looks great after jacking the contrast up a bit....

Ok, I'm really confused, do 120hz glasses work with this unit or not? Augie, are you using a PC to change output to 60hz?
post #366 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by threed123 View Post

Ok, I'm really confused, do 120hz glasses work with this unit or not? Augie, are you using a PC to change output to 60hz?
I was using a PC that is outputting 1080p at 60hz for my resting yesterday and was watching some 1080p SBS 3d rips from the ice films add on.... I have two pair of sainsonic 144hz glasses and 2 pair of $10 cheaply 120hz glasses ( come in almost the same packaging as sainsonic so I think they are made by the same folksin china. All four pair work fine so either the 120hz pair are actually 144hz capable or the projector does 120hz when converting 60hz feed? It wworked with 24hz feed but had bad ghosting. This disappeared completely when switching to 60hz. Funny thing is when selecting the "SBS" 3d mode in the projector I don't think I got a 120hz or 144hz indicator when it resynced.
post #367 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by kedelbach View Post

Your room is similar in size and the same 10' height as mine, and I plan on getting this mount (and an HDMI cable) with the $50 Amazon credit:
http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Projector-Ceiling-Bracket-PJ2W/dp/B000IDC0K2/ref=pd_sim_e_37

28" max drop, + maybe 2" from top of projector to center of lens, + 9" from lens to top of 120" screen (which will just cover the large window in the room) gives me just a bit more drop than necessary for a level mounting.

According to Amazon reviews it works with the HD25, and while not in the same league as a $150 Chief Mount it does the job.

What's everyone else using?

This one works fine for those who don't need a long mount.

http://www.amazon.com/PCMD-Projector-Ceiling-Optoma-HD25-LV/dp/B00BRQ94SA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1380805653&sr=8-2&keywords=hd-25+lv+mount
post #368 of 2566
Down to $759 on Amazon and includes a $50 Amazon credit. Assuming you shop at Amazon this drops the price down to $709. Thats amazing.
post #369 of 2566
I have a new Acer h6510bd that has a HDMI1 issue (HDMI2 is fine) and can send it back to new egg for a replacement. Soooo

Now, I feel like I have the option to compare projectors. I wanted the BenQ w1070 but couldn't justify the cost but now I kind of see this as an opportunity to get the projector I want and gosh dang it if it costs $200 more then so be it.

Actually, when I bought the Acer the Benq was $245 (approx.) more but now it is $50 less. And for whatever reason, it now seems doable.

Just yesterday I saw some nice reviews for the Optoma HD131Xe. Nice black levels and gray detail. I owned the Optoma ML550 and thought it was very nice but I wasn't expecting much either. So the Optoma HD131Xe becomes a strong candidate for a comparison.

I have a few weeks before I have to send the Acer back so I want to compare it with a relatively price comparable projector that is considered the best in the budget class. The w1070 has great reviews and is probably the budget king right now but the HD131Xe has some nice reviews too, just not anywhere near as many as the BenQ... yet.

Any suggestions? The Acer h6510 vs: w1070? HD131Xe? Another projector? Or perhaps these projectors are so close in value and performance that it doesn't really matter. Maybe there isn't significant differences until you step out of the budget class.

I am setting up the Acer today. So far I have just run DTV on it against an off-white wall. It's not calibrated either so I will work on that as well. I have a 110" 1.0 gain white screen coming today and I will be using my blu ray player.

I paid $650 for the Acer. The Optoma HD131Xe is less than $100 more and the BenQ is less than $200 more. I will be using Amazon since their return policy is awesome. Had I realized that new egg only did "replacement for 30 days" on the Acer, I might have not bought it. I am, pre-comparison, leaning toward the Optoma but I get the feeling that a "properly" calibrated w1070 would be hard to beat.

Thanks,
Tom
post #370 of 2566
Bear in mind that the 1070 has a much shorter throw than the Optoma, so they can't be mounted in the same place, this is something you need to consider. In my room, the 1070 fits perfectly, while the Optoma is a show stopper for me. I can't get even 100" at the farthest mounting place.
post #371 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotjt133 View Post

Bear in mind that the 1070 has a much shorter throw than the Optoma, so they can't be mounted in the same place, this is something you need to consider. In my room, the 1070 fits perfectly, while the Optoma is a show stopper for me. I can't get even 100" at the farthest mounting place.

I will be using a tripod screen so throw distance will be relative to some extent.

You like the HD131Xe better?
post #372 of 2566

Hey guys.. I have a really narrow room (9 foot) that I use as a home theater. I'm considering this projector, but I'm not sure how well it will work.

 

I currently use a Dell M110 (short throw LED, 720p) which makes a 83" screen.

 

The online calculator seems to indicate I'll get an 80" screen with this. But the lumens are going to be massive. Would this mean it would be too bright for running with the lights off?

post #373 of 2566

Well I have pretty much been sold on getting this projector.  I have always wanted to upgrade my media room from my 50" LCD, to a projector.  As I am a relative newbie to projector installation, etc.  I hope you can reassure me that this projector will work in my setup.  

 

My media room is about 19'6" long, 11'8" wide, and the drop ceiling height of 7'8".  As I have access above the drop ceiling I can run cables fairly easily and could ceiling mount just at just about any distance.  As I currently have a LCD TV mounted at the front of the room, that I will likely leave at least for now.  I have almost complete control of light, with a little light leaking in near the front left side of the room where I have a door with blackout drapes.   I have two tower speakers in the front as well as a center channel mounted below the LCD.   I am concerned about screen size and placement as well as projector placement.  I am using the projection calculator, but am not sure of what it is telling me.  I am thinking a 120" screen may be best for me,or perhaps I could get a 133".  One of the things I don't understand the the color coded bars in that say best for xxx type of light.  I am also concerned if I go to wide, that speakers would either need to be placed behind or in front of the screen.  Is this a problem?    Are these screen sizes to big for my room?  I apologize in advance if I am over analyzing this.  For now, I will likely be using some make shift screen (sheet) until I can purchase something more suitable.  

 

Any help or suggestion would be appreciated.

post #374 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolhand View Post

Down to $759 on Amazon and includes a $50 Amazon credit. Assuming you shop at Amazon this drops the price down to $709. Thats amazing.

Agree, my $650 'used' one from Amazon warehouse might be going back!
post #375 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

All four pair work fine so either the 120hz pair are actually 144hz capable or the projector does 120hz when converting 60hz feed?

I think I may have stumbled across the answer to the 120hz/144hz question. I've been downloading user manuals for several Optoma projectors. They all avoid saying anything about what factors determine the display refresh rate. Last night I downloaded the user manual for the Optoma EH501 projector and actually got a hit when I did a search on 144hz. According to that manual, the projector uses a 144hz refresh rate on HDMI 1.4 frame packing 1920x1080@24hz source material (in other words, full HD Blu-ray). Everything else gets a lower display rate of either 100hz or 120hz. If this is the case on the other Optoma projectors, and I would expect that it is, I think this means that for 3D Blu-ray material I'll be forced to set the input to 1280x720@60hz if I want to use my old DLP-Link glasses... which defeats the purpose of going 1080P over my current 720P Optoma HD66.

I had planned to switch from DLP-Link to RF glasses and VESA, but now I'm not so sure given what augiedoggy says about ghosting with 24hz input. Has anybody else noticed ghosting with VESA / RF glasses on 3D Blu-rays?
post #376 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolhand View Post

Down to $759 on Amazon and includes a $50 Amazon credit. Assuming you shop at Amazon this drops the price down to $709. Thats amazing.

Sweet!
Just called Amazon, and they're refunding $25 to my credit card since the price dropped 2 days after ordering.
Thanks for the heads-up man!!!
post #377 of 2566
I have an Optoma HD3300 and was thinking of changing it out for the HD131xe given it looks like an upgrade, though the HD3300 was a stepped-up model of the past. Anyway, I saw lots of threads about glasses, so first thing was to try all my 6 glasses--two of which are Optoma's. They work great on the HD3300, but not one worked on the HD131xe at 1080p 24hz until I went into my Sony bluray player and activated Hulu and 720p at 60hz, then they all worked. So, it appears that 144hz glasses ARE required for full 1.4 3D.

That said, what I saw was not as good as my HD3300, especially 2D TV. Looks great on my HD3300 and awful (to me--you might not notice) on the HD131xe, and I tweaked it as good as I could. Bluray is about the same. I was amazed that the HD3300 had better contrast and pop, though that's probably because the HD3300 has better noise circuits. And, speaking of noise--yikes, the HD131 is noisy with lots of block and mosquito noise--again, especially with TV input (1080i 60hz). And brightness--about the same. As for sharpness, the HD131 has a soft-noisiness to it that's hard to describe. It looks sharp, but when a person's face is up close, you do not see the pores and wrinkles (fine detail) as you do with the HD3300 even at max sharpness, yet text and fine lines look okay. All in all, I'm going to send the HD131xe back, as it's probably a good step up from a cheaper 720p 3D projector, but has a ways to go to match the projectors with more built-in controls. The HD131 also weighs a couple pounds less and is smaller than the HD3300, but has the same projection footprint. I would think that if you watch a lot of TV, and you already have a good projector like the HD33 or HD3300, there's no need to chase the bus, plus you won't have to buy all new DLP-link glasses. For someone just starting out, I doubt if you'd notice the soft image noise and it's a good first projector. For someone who has had a taste of fine projector wine, you might regret it.

I also heard from an Optoma rep that the HD131xe is selling very well, but the first couple of batches are getting returned for replacement with component issues, so take that for what it's worth. It might be why Amazon is dumping them right now.
post #378 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxrh View Post

I think I may have stumbled across the answer to the 120hz/144hz question. I've been downloading user manuals for several Optoma projectors. They all avoid saying anything about what factors determine the display refresh rate. Last night I downloaded the user manual for the Optoma EH501 projector and actually got a hit when I did a search on 144hz. According to that manual, the projector uses a 144hz refresh rate on HDMI 1.4 frame packing 1920x1080@24hz source material (in other words, full HD Blu-ray). Everything else gets a lower display rate of either 100hz or 120hz. If this is the case on the other Optoma projectors, and I would expect that it is, I think this means that for 3D Blu-ray material I'll be forced to set the input to 1280x720@60hz if I want to use my old DLP-Link glasses... which defeats the purpose of going 1080P over my current 720P Optoma HD66.

I had planned to switch from DLP-Link to RF glasses and VESA, but now I'm not so sure given what augiedoggy says about ghosting with 24hz input. Has anybody else noticed ghosting with VESA / RF glasses on 3D Blu-rays?
I'm using my dlp link glasses... I don't have rf glasses and I'm not sure I understand why you think its going to display at 720p at 120hz but I can tell you it displays at 1080p in 3d mode and works with both my 144 capable glasses as well as my advertised 120hz glasses.... It does not down convert to 720p at 120hz like my hd66 does....
post #379 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by TVSTAR View Post

That said, what I saw was not as good as my HD3300, especially 2D TV.....And, speaking of noise--yikes, the HD131 is noisy with lots of block and mosquito noise--again, especially with TV input (1080i 60hz).

That sucks!
I'm coming from 7 years watching an LCD Sanyo Z2000, which put out a very noise-free, smoothly shaded and sharp picture. The 131Xe is my first foray into DLP, and has almost double the brightness of the Sanyo so I was prepared for a different looking picture but noise and macro-blocking of colors bug the hell out of me.
We'll give it a shot, can always return it.

This review of the HD25-LV mentions it having a problem with image noise:
http://www.projectorreviews.com/optoma/hd25-lv/performance.php

Post #321 suggests using the settings from post #17 to help reduce the apparent "noise"
http://www.avforums.com/forums/19264262-post17.html

If I can't live with the 131Xe, the problem then becomes what's the next step up?

I can swing the price difference to the new Epson 5030UB ($2600), was just hoping the 131Xe would be "good enough" for 3-5 years until 4K projectors and content are more widespread.
post #380 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by kedelbach View Post

That sucks!
I'm coming from 7 years watching an LCD Sanyo Z2000, which put out a very noise-free, smoothly shaded and sharp picture. The 131Xe is my first foray into DLP, and has almost double the brightness of the Sanyo so I was prepared for a different looking picture but noise and macro-blocking of colors bug the hell out of me.
We'll give it a shot, can always return it. .

A lot of people coming from lcds to dlp, think the dlp has more pop, better 3D, etc., so you might be good with that. But if you're like me, and are used to a smooth noise-free image, then you might want to hop up to something better now. As for 4k, really, do we really need this now if all the input is still 1080p. So you might get a little bit more apparent resolution with upscaling, but I'm going to wait for the first <$1,000 3D capable projector in 2016--yeah, I think it will take that long.

That said, go for it, return it, and let us know how you like (er, liked ;o) it.
post #381 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by TVSTAR View Post


That said, what I saw was not as good as my HD3300, especially 2D TV.

Was this in your home or a store? If it was a store display, well I'll just leave that alone. The screen shots of the 33/3300 looked very poor to me, other than the resolution (I'm only 720p) - of course those are screen shots, mostly useless!

Can you get more information from the rep? (what problems, what date codes, anything...) I'm responding to you to increase your post count! j/k smile.gif
post #382 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by TVSTAR View Post


I also heard from an Optoma rep that the HD131xe is selling very well, but the first couple of batches are getting returned for replacement with component issues, so take that for what it's worth. It might be why Amazon is dumping them right now.

It seems strange that an Optoma rep would volunteer such information ...

Also, what exactly does "component issues" mean?
post #383 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

I'm not sure I understand why you think its going to display at 720p at 120hz but I can tell you it displays at 1080p in 3d mode and works with both my 144 capable glasses as well as my advertised 120hz glasses.... It does not down convert to 720p at 120hz like my hd66 does....

I think we're getting our signals crossed (pardon the pun) with respect to input source format versus output display refresh rate.

The Optoma EH501 manual says that the 144hz display refresh rate on the projector is automatically triggered when there is an input source signal of 1080P 24hz. Any other input source signal, such as 720P 60hz, will trigger a 120hz refresh rate on the projector. So if I don't have DLP-Link glasses that will sync at 144hz, I'll either have to get new ones or force the input signal from my source device (player or PC) to 60hz.

If this is the case, my viewing options for 3D Blu-rays are limited to two since there are only two input source signals supported by HDMI 1.4, namely, 1080P 24hz (which would display at 144hz) or 720P 60hz (which would display at 120hz).

If I change the setting of my input source device to 720P 60hz, I agree with you that the projector won't downconvert the incoming signal to 720P. The projector will display in its native mode of 1080P. But unfortunately the input to the display is 720P (so that I can use my old glasses) which will mean that the projector will upconvert to 1080P. And of course a 720P source upconverted to 1080P won't look as good as a 1080P source, which wouldn't require any pixel manipulation by the projector.

Hope that makes sense...
post #384 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxrh View Post

I think we're getting our signals crossed (pardon the pun) with respect to input source format versus output display refresh rate.

The Optoma EH501 manual says that the 144hz display refresh rate on the projector is automatically triggered when there is an input source signal of 1080P 24hz. Any other input source signal, such as 720P 60hz, will trigger a 120hz refresh rate on the projector. So if I don't have DLP-Link glasses that will sync at 144hz, I'll either have to get new ones or force the input signal from my source device (player or PC) to 60hz.

If this is the case, my viewing options for 3D Blu-rays are limited to two since there are only two input source signals supported by HDMI 1.4, namely, 1080P 24hz (which would display at 144hz) or 720P 60hz (which would display at 120hz).

If I change the setting of my input source device to 720P 60hz, I agree with you that the projector won't downconvert the incoming signal to 720P. The projector will display in its native mode of 1080P. But unfortunately the input to the display is 720P (so that I can use my old glasses) which will mean that the projector will upconvert to 1080P. And of course a 720P source upconverted to 1080P won't look as good as a 1080P source, which wouldn't require any pixel manipulation by the projector.

Hope that makes sense...
yeah I gue im able to watchss I still don't know why your limited to 720? both my computer and my 3d Blu ray player are set to output 1080 P and the projector is seeing a 1080 p signal when in 3d mode and is working with the DLP link glasses
post #385 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by Birddoggin View Post

It seems strange that an Optoma rep would volunteer such information ...

Also, what exactly does "component issues" mean?
that would also mean that the whole line of Optoma HD 25 131 and Eh300 are all going back for the same reasons if you look at the product information sticker on the bottom you'll see that unlike the older Optoma projectors the model number is missing instead it just says HD venue projector there's an added sticker with the firmware revision in the serial number and model number in a different place on the projector when a flash the firmware the changes in the way to call we'll work or whatever in the phone where is what distinguishes how to model behaves differently. I am willing to bet on this
post #386 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by two-rocks View Post

Was this in your home or a store? If it was a store display, well I'll just leave that alone. The screen shots of the 33/3300 looked very poor to me, other than the resolution (I'm only 720p) - of course those are screen shots, mostly useless!

Can you get more information from the rep? (what problems, what date codes, anything...) I'm responding to you to increase your post count! j/k smile.gif

At home. I've had the HD3300 since 2011 and it's been tweaked professionally. If you remember, the HD3300 was offered as a HD33 on steroids for installers with better components, contrast and brightness. Screen shots can make any projector look bad, so don't judge by that. The best judge is user reviews at ProjectorCentral, and on this forum, but people who buy stuff also like to think they know what they are doing and will give a good spin on a projector, though it's average. If you have a 720p, then going to the HD131xe will be a good jump, but don't expect a huge jump in quality. So much of what a projector can do depends on input. If you have an average TV provider, then expect the image to be average. I'm just saying the HD131xe has some noise issues and smearing when decoding TV video. Bluray is good, though.
post #387 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by two-rocks View Post

Was this in your home or a store? If it was a store display, well I'll just leave that alone. The screen shots of the 33/3300 looked very poor to me, other than the resolution (I'm only 720p) - of course those are screen shots, mostly useless!

Good question - I understood his post as having both projectors at his home, fed with the same signal over HDMI. If the 131Xe was in a store with HDMI it should have been a good representative for color uniformity/noise, even if ambient light likely made any judgements on contrast and color balance very difficult, at best.

TVStar - could you please elaborate?
thanks!
post #388 of 2566
The cable from my box 1080i looked a bit soft (about the same as my HD 66 except better contrast) I noticed a huge difference when changing the output on my bluray player from 720p to 1080p.. I had no idea how much of a difference I was missing. BTW when I turned brilliant color to 1 I could see a difference in gradients... they were completely smooth at that point but even with it up to a high level my whites didn't blow out like my old optoma unit would.
post #389 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

both my computer and my 3d Blu ray player are set to output 1080 P and the projector is seeing a 1080 p signal when in 3d mode and is working with the DLP link glasses

It sounds like you lucked out and your DLP-Link glasses support 144hz. I know that mine will not work. The only older DLP-Link glasses that I understand can handle 144hz are the ones from 3DTV Corp. (See post #301.)
post #390 of 2566
Quote:
Originally Posted by Birddoggin View Post

It seems strange that an Optoma rep would volunteer such information ...

Also, what exactly does "component issues" mean?

Mainly the oxidation issue for saltwater transport (ie. saltwater air causes an acidic electrolyte to induce oxidation rust on copper), I think. Sorry, my source is a source of a source--and you know how reliable that can be, but still, it seems that Amazon is dumping these for some reason.
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