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Optoma HD131Xe, HD (1080p), 2500 ANSI Lumens, 3D-Home Theater Projector - Sub $800 New Budget King? - Page 21

post #601 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by niggenz View Post

Not sure if I have the expertise to recommend a screen. Plus I'm American and we think in Dollars :P. But sounds like 200 EUR will get you a nice screen. I can say the projector is bright, so I wouldn't recommend any screen under 120" diagonal if you are not sitting more than 1.5x the distance back of the screen size. Miwo has a 100" diagonal screen (I think, or its 84" diagonal) and he says it scorches his eyes. I have an Elite 125" 1.0 gain screen which should do well in my set up. Check the screen forum or ask here on this board in another thread.

RBE is rainbow effect. It is a flash of color in high contrast scenes. See if you can demo a good DLP projector from someone you know or at a retailer. Here is an example of what it would look like if you are sensitive to it. Make sure no one you would use your projector with is sensitive to it as well. If not, congrats! We hope to see you soon posting on this board as an owner of the HD131Xe.

Oh damn, I saw the video and that is quite bad. Right now I don't watch a whole lot of movies, but when you have a screen that big I bet I will be watching much more. I live on my own, and only sometimes friends or family coming over. So i'm pretty much buying it for myself. wink.gif I could try and find a shop here that lets me demo a projector, and if I see such a rainbow effect. will that mean i'm gonna be seeing that on pretty much any DLP projector?
post #602 of 2563
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonwalker1982 View Post

Oh damn, I saw the video and that is quite bad. Right now I don't watch a whole lot of movies, but when you have a screen that big I bet I will be watching much more. I live on my own, and only sometimes friends or family coming over. So i'm pretty much buying it for myself. wink.gif I could try and find a shop here that lets me demo a projector, and if I see such a rainbow effect. will that mean i'm gonna be seeing that on pretty much any DLP projector?

No, it doesn't. But will allow you a bit more confidence with your decision. Try to demo one that is of near quality and you will pretty much be certain with your purchase. Let's hope you don't see rainbows like most everyone else.
post #603 of 2563
I'm not sure how that video shows RBE (video of a video?), and to me it looks nothing like that (video seems exaggerated to me)- it's usually seen from darting your eyes around the screen - it is never seen if you don't do that. That video shows rainbows with a static camera. See it for yourself (or not) but do not base anything on that video (IMO).

Don't make the screen too big (just because you can, or just because you want to say it's 'that' big)
Don't sit too close.
Don't make the image too bright.

I did all of these, and it was fun - but fatiguing. I have since redesigned my screen wall and front row seating to 1.4 (can't go more due to space issues). It is a better experience for us now.
post #604 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by niggenz View Post

No, it doesn't. But will allow you a bit more confidence with your decision. Try to demo one that is of near quality and you will pretty much be certain with your purchase. Let's hope you don't see rainbows like most everyone else.

I don't recall that problem with my previous projector, but that was definitely not a DLP. I hope there's at least one store here that has projectors so I can demo it. Would those other two projectors I mentioned be considered near quality?

Two Rocks


My wall is 2.3 meters (7.54593 feet) in length and much more if we're talking height. The distance I can sit away from it is 5 meters (16.4042 feet) if I were to project It that big...would that be a decent enough distance?
Edited by Moonwalker1982 - 10/17/13 at 6:12am
post #605 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonwalker1982 View Post

My wall is 2.3 meters (7.54593 feet) in length and much more if we're talking height. The distance I can sit away from it is 5 meters (16.4042 feet) if I were to project It that big...would that be a decent enough distance?

There are industry standards for how our eye and peripheral vision handle the complete image (don't remember the specifics)...but personal preference still wins the day.

If you went the full width of the room with your screen (2.3m) then you might try a minimum ratio of 1.3 to start (1.3x2.3m) or about 3m ...but the length of the room seems to give you plenty of flexibility. 1.4 or 1.5 is more comfortable to many people, yet some prefer 1.1.

Here is a fun thing to do...stare at a point on a wall 1m away...have someone mark the top, bottom, left, right of your peripheral vision (don't move your eye from the dot in the center)....the ratio of the image should be close to 16:9 ;-)
post #606 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by two-rocks View Post

There are industry standards for how our eye and peripheral vision handle the complete image (don't remember the specifics)...but personal preference still wins the day.

If you went the full width of the room with your screen (2.3m) then you might try a minimum ratio of 1.3 to start (1.3x2.3m) or about 3m ...but the length of the room seems to give you plenty of flexibility. 1.4 or 1.5 is more comfortable to many people, yet some prefer 1.1.

Here is a fun thing to do...stare at a point on a wall 1m away...have someone mark the top, bottom, left, right of your peripheral vision (don't move your eye from the dot in the center)....the ratio of the image should be close to 16:9 ;-)

Haha that is a cool idea, might try it sometime.

I have another question, this time regarding audio. When I am gaming, I always have headphones on, but for a movie or a show it' s great to have the sound going through my speakers and receivers. How would that work? Movies will still be played using the Xbox 360 and its connected via HDMI. However, my receiver doesn't have HDMI. It does have optical though. Could that work? HDMI from Xbox 360 to HDMI in the projector, and optical from Xbox 360 to receiver?
post #607 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by two-rocks View Post

I'm not sure how that video shows RBE (video of a video?), and to me it looks nothing like that (video seems exaggerated to me)- it's usually seen from darting your eyes around the screen - it is never seen if you don't do that. That video shows rainbows with a static camera. See it for yourself (or not) but do not base anything on that video.

I have to agree with two-rocks here. The video is a huge exaggeration. Perhaps it was meant to be. I had an Infocus X1 PJ when I started and I rarely saw RBEs. When I did, I did not care, and so I did not "look" for them. "Looking for them" is a good way of finding them. The action of doing unnecessary eye movements is what causes them to be more pronounced. The subject causes many opinions to be expressed. Do a search and see.
Check out DLPs at a brick and mortar if you can.
Good luck.
post #608 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrano View Post

I have to agree with two-rocks here. The video is a huge exaggeration. Perhaps it was meant to be. I had an Infocus X1 PJ when I started and I rarely saw RBEs. When I did, I did not care, and so I did not "look" for them. "Looking for them" is a good way of finding them. The action of doing unnecessary eye movements is what causes them to be more pronounced. The subject causes many opinions to be expressed. Do a search and see.
Check out DLPs at a brick and mortar if you can.
Good luck.

That is something i can definitely agree with. I remember when i had just bought my Panasonic plasma last year and i started to notice weird lines and green effects, basically banding and green blog/tinge. But i also saw plenty of people on forums that had not noticed them yet, but they went to all kinds of meassures to fully check out if their set had those things. If you really don't notice anything, it really is best to just keep it that way. Anyway...i made photo of my living room during daytime, in terms of how bright it is with the curtains closed (and no curtain or door to enter the kitchen, which does give some extra light), would this be ok for the projector?

http://i43.tinypic.com/256fcki.jpg
post #609 of 2563

I've spent several hours now with both the 1070 and the 131. My preliminary take: 1070 has more accurate colors straight out of the box, at least to my eye. This is especially apparent with fleshtones. It also seemed strangely brighter than the Optima, though I thought it should be the other way around. And it seems a little sharper too. And I didn't measure the DBL but the optima sure SOUNDED louder to me than the BenQ with both running in econ mode. And this might be somewhat minor, but I absolutely HATE the optima's UI. Hate it hate hate it. First time I saw that oversized low res spinning hourglass, I thought: Oh fvck this. I can't live with seeing this thing every time I pop in a disc.Wv7Zu Can't do it.


Edited by jimsrock - 10/17/13 at 8:12am
post #610 of 2563
unfortunately RBE and OCD don't mix. This greatly exaggerated the problem here
post #611 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxrh View Post


TVSTAR, I just realized that I may have misunderstood something about the first post that I quote above. I agree with you that 1080p@60hz is not available on any Blu-ray player. (It is not part of the HDMI 1.4a specifications.) But would you please confirm that you are not able to output a standard retail 3D Blu-ray at 720p 60hz using your Sony 590? I got the impression that you tried this setting but discovered that it didn't work (since you mentioned that the source material had to be 720p).

Does anybody know if an Oppo BDP-103 supports output of a 3D Blu-ray at 720p 60hz? I think it should have the processing power to do so. I have a home theater PC and had planned to use it to do 720p60, but I will be getting an Oppo in the near future. (I'm the guy with a pile of old DLP-Link glasses that I want to hold on to for those wild 3D parties we all keep a secret around here). smile.gif

EDIT: I just downloaded the Oppo BDP-103 manual and not only does it support resolution conversion but it outputs at 1080p60hz! Time to schedule another 3D party!
1080p at 60hz is available on my panny bdt 210 and works great in 2d mode... in 3d the signal is interpreted by the hd131xe as an odd doubled 3840 x2160 and displays a black screen. on my home theater PC I can I'll put in 1080 P 24hz with SBS content but I get a ghosting issuelike the glasses are missing a frame every now and thenI'm guessing this is because sBS content is for 720 P I haven't t verified 1080 p at 60 Hertz with SBS content yet. but going by what I've learned recently here it won't work and initially when I thought it did I might have been viewing 720 P instead
post #612 of 2563
I can force 1080p/60hz from my bluray, but it will only do it for 2D. For 3D it reverts to 24hz. I can force 720p/60hz for 3D content other than bluray, like MPO files and hulu 3D, etc. And for this I can use the older glasses, but for bluray 3D at 24hz I can only use the 144hz glasses.
post #613 of 2563
For those who are curious. Since I am still waiting on being able to install my projector due to some work being done in my downstairs living area, I decided to RMA my projector to Optoma to correct the soft focus corner issue. The RMA lists repair in the remark section, but I was told by another rep that most likely the unit will be swapped out. The projector is being FedEx'd today, so it'll be a few days.

I will update once I know more/have the projector back. I guess sure way to tell will be the serial #.
post #614 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimsrock View Post

I've spent several hours now with both the 1070 and the 131. My preliminary take: 1070 has more accurate colors straight out of the box, at least to my eye. This is especially apparent with fleshtones. It also seemed strangely brighter than the Optima, though I thought it should be the other way around. And it seems a little sharper too. And I didn't measure the DBL but the optima sure SOUNDED louder to me than the BenQ with both running in econ mode. And this might be somewhat minor, but I absolutely HATE the optima's UI. Hate it hate hate it. First time I saw that oversized low res spinning hourglass, I thought: Oh fvck this. I can't live with seeing this thing every time I pop in a disc.Wv7Zu
Can't do it.

Hmmmm....after reading this i'm hoping i can demo both projectors at a store here. Of course things like these are subjective, but i value picture quality a lot and being used to plasma for years now, i certainly want to have something comparable. Now of course i wont know if this projector will be able to match the pq i have on my current LG plasma until i try it out, but still.....this comment kinda has me thinking twice about it now.

By the way, since it has been so long that i had a projector i kinda forgot. But just like with a TV, you have options like sharpness and contrast, brightness on the projector i assume? I'm not expecting the very unnecessary advanced settings that hdtvs have like dynamic contrast and such.
post #615 of 2563
I have checked the focus in the center and all four corners with the test grid pattern and the DLP grid shows up very clearly, so I don't think I have a focus problem. That said, I see bad chromatic aberration in the corners--ie. the white line has red and blue fringing. This makes me suspect that it isn't a focus problem, but a lens design problem, since the effect would be that not all colors align properly, therefore making detail fuzzy.

Please check this out and let me know if you see the same thing before you send in, and after. This is very common in digital camera lenses.

I'll see if I can get a picture of this to post.
post #616 of 2563
I can focus the corners, just not at the same time :-) ....is that the same lense issue you speak of?

My used one from amazon is going back and I have a new one being shipped, I'll have them both at the same time. Only going to return the used one based on the small price difference vs new.
post #617 of 2563
Thread Starter 
For those of use not quite as sensitive to RBE, darting your eyes across the screen in like the credits crawl at the end of the movie will reveal them. But those that are highly sensitive to rainbows, that Youtube video is pretty accurate.
post #618 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by niggenz View Post

For those of use not quite as sensitive to RBE, darting your eyes across the screen in like the credits crawl at the end of the movie will reveal them. But those that are highly sensitive to rainbows, that Youtube video is pretty accurate.

I'm gonna have to do my best to not dart my eyes around the screen then. I don't want to have something that can't be easily unseen anymore.

I watched this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe-MNFW5PNk

and i must say that i really like the HD25, especially black levels wise. How does this one compare to the HD131 pq and black levels wise?
Edited by Moonwalker1982 - 10/17/13 at 6:41pm
post #619 of 2563
Received my HD131Xe last night, and it had to come out of the box.

I setup a temporary 86" screen and checked the focus. I am leery on how the corners looked with the grid test pattern, and will it be apparent as pc monitor.

I could focus areas, not the whole picture.

I saved the box incase optoma does have a lens replacement that fixes the issue.

Now I really did enjoy Avengers on the temp setup! Just casting on a flat light/medium tan painted wall.

I was so into the picture, I didn't even switch to my 5.1. Yeah I rocked out the movie to optoma's onboard speaker! biggrin.gif
post #620 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonwalker1982 View Post

I'm gonna have to do my best to not dart my eyes around the screen then. I don't want to have something that can't be easily unseen anymore.

I watched this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe-MNFW5PNk

and i must say that i really like the HD25, especially black levels wise. How does this one compare to the HD131 pq and black levels wise?
As far as anyone knows its the same projector besides the bulb ballast and bulb which uses more power on the hd25 to put out less light... this will give a increase in black level. It is also possible that it achieves these differences through a different colorwheel deisgn but if that were true I wonder how so many people can praise using the hd25 calibration numbers posted on their hd25e/hd131xe (which ARE the same hardware and firmware).

unless I'm mistaken the hd25 is the older generation and the hd25e is the newer more efficient version of the same unit thats brighter... if you want the brightness of the hd25 in the black case the hd30b is 1600 lumens. They seem to throw out different contrast ratings and lumens to confuse peps into paying more for the white case over the black it seems... honestly I may have some of this wrong since optoma have released a different model for every case color and bulb combination they have in thier parts arsenal it seems...
so
this is my take on the marketing strategy... hopefully someone will eventually prove me wrong or right.

hd131xe in black is = to hd25e in white and both use 190w bulb setup.

hd30b in black is =to the hd25 in white and both use the 240w bulb setup...

eh300 in black is = to the hd25lv in white both use the 240w bulb setup??

of course to make matters more confusing they have some with different model numbers in europe like the hd131x and hd30 (both black)


Honestly the black level on my hd131xe at 100" is pretty damn good.... its hard to imagine much better.
Edited by augiedoggy - 10/18/13 at 5:43am
post #621 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

As far as anyone knows its the same projector besides the bulb ballast and bulb which uses more power on the hd25 to put out less light... this will give a increase in black level. It is also possible that it achieves these differences through a different colorwheel deisgn but if that were true I wonder how so many people can praise using the hd25 calibration numbers posted on their hd25e/hd131xe (which ARE the same hardware and firmware).
Honestly the black level on my hd131xe at 100" is pretty damn good.... its hard to imagine much better.

Sounds good to me. Black levels really help immerse yourself more, for me especially with horror games. Do you play videogames as well?

Also....we spoke about this before. But since I;ve been used to plasma for all these years, and thus that 600hz technology as well, won't it bother me that the projector doesn't have this? I like plasma so much because it is so smooth in both games and movies and that it doesn't have that terrible blurring LCD/LED have. How is the motion on the projector in games and movies compared to a...plasma of today? Not necessarily a high end plasma, but my LGPA6500 for example. How does it compare motion wise to it?
Edited by Moonwalker1982 - 10/18/13 at 5:42am
post #622 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitgsx View Post

Received my HD131Xe last night, and it had to come out of the box.

I setup a temporary 86" screen and checked the focus. I am leery on how the corners looked with the grid test pattern, and will it be apparent as pc monitor.

I could focus areas, not the whole picture.

I saved the box incase optoma does have a lens replacement that fixes the issue.

Now I really did enjoy Avengers on the temp setup! Just casting on a flat light/medium tan painted wall.

I was so into the picture, I didn't even switch to my 5.1. Yeah I rocked out the movie to optoma's onboard speaker! biggrin.gif
You may know this already but the lens has to be completly square and parallel top to bottom and left to right with the screen...if you have the screen or projector tilted this will make the focus issue worse...
post #623 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

Honestly the black level on my hd131xe at 100" is pretty damn good.... its hard to imagine much better.

Augiedoggy,

What type of screen are you using?

I'm currently using 110" DIY painted drywall with Black Window paint fomula giving me N7.5 natural grey paint rating. The formula uses aluminium particles which makes brightntess to be close to N8. Since our projectors are pretty bright and my screen needs repainting, I was recommended to go with ~N7.5 paint or lower with N7 (darker) to improve blacks.. My only worry is it might improve 2D picture at the expense of 3D brightness...

BTW... I watched few more SBS flicks (few minutes here and there) and I'm very happy with 3D picture Optoma produces. Much better than I epxected, even my wife had no issues with orderign 2 extra pairs of 3D glasses.

Beside the obviuos tiny problem with the soft corners, I'm very happy with the projector. Sometimes I notice tiny flickering in ECO mode, which I can easly get rid off it after switching to BRIGHT lamp mode for 20 seconds or so and than back to ECO. This also happen on my Optoma HD65 in the first 100 or 200 hours ...
post #624 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

You may know this already but the lens has to be completly square and parallel top to bottom and left to right with the screen...if you have the screen or projector tilted this will make the focus issue worse...

I changed the location to a table, and set it up square to the wall. Focus improved, yet upper left and bottom right still have focus issue.

I have put a movable text box on the screen via chromecast, and moved it around trying to focus the upper left, middle and bottom right. Middle of the screen is perfect, just cannot get both corners close to the same clarity. Upper left appears to be the worst of the 2 corners.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fadius View Post

the problem is mostly visible in the top-left and bottom-right corners.

got o your projector settings and display the grid pattern, focus the center and you'll notice that the top-left and bottom-right corners are slightly out of focus. If you focus one of the corners the other gets worse...

the problem is not severe and would be very hard to notice on video... but if you have a desktop shown (say windows) you can notice that the tray bar (bottom-right) is a little fuzzy... or if it's focused, then you'll notice that an icon at the top-left corner is a little fuzzy.

Video looks phenomenal, but am I expecting too much from a budget projector for text clarity of the 2 corners?

I will wait for Fadius's outcome before I make any decision on what to do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fadius View Post

I spoke to couple of reps today and all confirmed that it is a known issue and they are now replacing lenses. Even got info from Senior Director of Customer Service that the Canadian servicing center in Richmond Hill, ON will not be receiving the replacement lenses for another two weeks.
So far I'm extremely happy with Optoma's customer service. They have been very helpful and flexible. I changed my mind about sending the unit back to Amazon and will instead have Optoma replace the lens.

As for the people saying they don't mind the focus issue. I agree that it isn't really noticeable when watching video but it will keep bugging me knowing that I have a bad lens ... might as well get it fixed! and what's to say it wont improve overall image quality...
post #625 of 2563
I have been out of purchasing projectors for some time. I got into PJs about eleven years ago and have had a BenQ 720p, the InFocus 4805 and have been running the InFocus 7205 on a 106” DaLite High-Contrast Cinema Vision screen in a light-controlled home theater for nearly 10 years. For a few years now, I have been considering a move to a 1080p projector, but felt I should “use up” what I have. However, I’m at a point where I will need a replacement within the year.

From the beginning, I’ve favored a DLP picture (I’m not subject to RBE) and now DLP looks to be the low-cost PJ leader. From what I’ve read in the past few months, practically any of the current low-cost, DLP PJs will be vastly superior to what I have now. I am not into 3D or gaming, so I’m looking for a PJ that will simply deliver a very good 2D picture (BD and DVD movies, no TV) on my 106” screen from a ceiling mount. I have a high ceiling and don’t have any offset issues. My other requirement is that the projector be reasonably quiet. Also, my preference is for a long-throw PJ and I want to avoid a short-throw. On paper, the BenQ W1070 seems to be a good fit for me, but I’ve read about it being noisy. However, in this thread, I’ve seen some comments about the Optoma HD131xe being noisier than the BenQ W1070.

The low price and Amazon deal on the HD131xe is very tempting. My two concerns are the focus uniformity issue and the low-speed color wheel. I’m less concerned with the color wheel since I never had problems with the InFocus 4805 which had a 6 segment/ 4x color wheel. I don’t want focus problems, but at my age I need a helper to properly focus a projector smile.gif

Would the HD131xe be a good fit for my needs or should I consider something else. I have no problem spending up to $2,000 for a DLP PJ, but the higher priced units don’t seem to offer much more for 2D, movie viewing than the budget models. Any comments or advice are surely welcome.
Edited by nirvana_av - 10/18/13 at 2:16pm
post #626 of 2563
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nirvana_av View Post

I have been out of purchasing projectors for some time. I got into PJs about eleven years ago and have had a BenQ 720p, the InFocus 4805 and have been running the InFocus 7205 on a 106” DaLite High-Contrast Cinema Vision screen in a light-controlled home theater for nearly 10 years. For a few years now, I have been considering a move to a 1080p projector, but felt I should “use up” what I have. However, I’m at a point where I will need a replacement within the year.

From the beginning, I’ve favored a DLP picture (I’m not subject to RBE) and now DLP looks to be the low-cost PJ leader. From what I’ve read in the past few months, practically any of the current low-cost, DLP PJs will be vastly superior to what I have now. I am not into 3D or gaming, so I’m looking for a PJ that will simply deliver a very good 2D picture (BD and DVD movies, no TV) on my 106” screen from a ceiling mount. I have a high ceiling and don’t have any offset issues. My other requirement is that the projector be reasonably quiet. Also, my preference is for a long-throw PJ and I want to avoid a short-throw. On paper, the BenQ W1070 seems to be a good fit for me, but I’ve read about it being noisy. However, in this thread, I’ve seen some comments about the Optoma HD131xe being noisier than the BenQ W1070.

The low price and Amazon deal on the HD131xe is very tempting. My two concerns are the focus uniformity issue and the low-speed color wheel. I’m less concerned with the color wheel since I never had problems with the InFocus 4805 which had a 4 segment/ 4x color wheel. I don’t want focus problems, but at my age I need a helper to properly focus a projector smile.gif

Would the HD131xe be a good fit for my needs or should I consider something else. I have no problem spending up to $2,000 for a DLP PJ, but the higher priced units don’t seem to offer much more for 2D, movie viewing than the budget models. Any comments or advice are surely welcome.

The HD131Xe may be slightly louder than the W1070, but that does not make either loud at all. It's just a relative comparison. I can say that both these projectors are much quieter than the projector's that came from the era that you mentioned. The reason for this is that the color wheel in modern projectors is virtually silent and all you really hear is the exhaust fan. The BenQ W1070 is a short throw projector, so it won't work for you or as you have stated, you want to avoid it. The HD131Xe will deliver a stunning image compared to the projectors you are used to. Your jaw will drop. And being that you are coming from these older projectors, the design quirks with its UI may not bother you at all. But, your screen being on the smaller side and its brightness would be my only concern for you. Provided you are sitting at least 1.5x the distance of the screen size back, you should be fine.

No point spending more if a very good 2D image, being relatively quiet, and long throw are your only concerns.
post #627 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by nirvana_av View Post

I have been out of purchasing projectors for some time. I got into PJs about eleven years ago and have had a BenQ 720p, the InFocus 4805 and have been running the InFocus 7205 on a 106” DaLite High-Contrast Cinema Vision screen in a light-controlled home theater for nearly 10 years. For a few years now, I have been considering a move to a 1080p projector, but felt I should “use up” what I have. However, I’m at a point where I will need a replacement within the year.

From the beginning, I’ve favored a DLP picture (I’m not subject to RBE) and now DLP looks to be the low-cost PJ leader. From what I’ve read in the past few months, practically any of the current low-cost, DLP PJs will be vastly superior to what I have now. I am not into 3D or gaming, so I’m looking for a PJ that will simply deliver a very good 2D picture (BD and DVD movies, no TV) on my 106” screen from a ceiling mount. I have a high ceiling and don’t have any offset issues. My other requirement is that the projector be reasonably quiet. Also, my preference is for a long-throw PJ and I want to avoid a short-throw. On paper, the BenQ W1070 seems to be a good fit for me, but I’ve read about it being noisy. However, in this thread, I’ve seen some comments about the Optoma HD131xe being noisier than the BenQ W1070.

The low price and Amazon deal on the HD131xe is very tempting. My two concerns are the focus uniformity issue and the low-speed color wheel. I’m less concerned with the color wheel since I never had problems with the InFocus 4805 which had a 6 segment/ 4x color wheel. I don’t want focus problems, but at my age I need a helper to properly focus a projector smile.gif

Would the HD131xe be a good fit for my needs or should I consider something else. I have no problem spending up to $2,000 for a DLP PJ, but the higher priced units don’t seem to offer much more for 2D, movie viewing than the budget models. Any comments or advice are surely welcome.

How good is your ambient light control? If you have good control, you really should consider a B-Stock JVC... will cost a fair bit more, but for movies and with no interest in 3D or sports, it seems a good fit. As a DLP fan myself, I understand what you like in DLPs, and, again, if you have decent ambient light control, you can do significantly better than the HD131xe and w1070 for under $2k (street, not MSRP). Both the Mistu HC8000D and the Sharp XV-Z30000 will have better blacks/contrast, but that will be largely wasted in a light-colored room. The Sharp also has motorized zoom & focus and lens memory, FWIW. Unfortunately, both Sharp and Mitsubishi are exiting the home theater projector market, so that does not portend well for future support in my book (and you seem to like to hold on to your projectors wink.gif). Art at projectorreviews discusses the tradeoffs between the W10170 and HD25LV (better colors & cleaner image for the benq, better blacks for the optoma). Another option is the newer benqs... the w1400 and w1500... a bit longer throw than the w1070, adds frame interpolation, about 40% brighter when calibrated according to reviews, but otherwise similar picture qualities. The W1500 and W1400 are identical from what I can tell except for the wireless HDMI for the W1500 (both well under $2k). My take is that (for movies) if you have decent light control you should consider a b-stock JVC or a better DLP, and if not, the Optoma and a more directional screen (e.g. a da-lite HP).
Edited by dougri - 10/18/13 at 2:50pm
post #628 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by dougri View Post

How good is your ambient light control? If you have good control, you really should consider a B-Stock JVC... will cost a fair bit more, but for movies and with no interest in 3D or sports, it seems a good fit. As a DLP fan myself, I understand what you like in DLPs, and, again, if you have decent ambient light control, you can do significantly better than the HD131xe and w1070 for under $2k (street, not MSRP). Both the Mistu HC8000D and the Sharp XV-Z30000 will have better blacks/contrast, but that will be largely wasted in a light-colored room. The Sharp also has motorized zoom & focus and lens memory, FWIW. Unfortunately, both Sharp and Mitsubishi are exiting the home theater projector market, so that does not portend well for future support in my book (and you seem to like to hold on to your projectors wink.gif).

A friend recently purchased the Mitsubishi HC7900dw for his dedicated HT. It seems to be a very nice projector for 2D. However, I haven't seen much mentioned on AVS Forum about this projector and it is a shame that Mitsubishi is getting out of the PJ business. I just didn't see the benefit of paying $1,800 for that model instead of less than $800 for the Optoma or a similar PJ. I have kept my projectors for a very long time, but maybe I need to start "swinging" with the hottest PJ in town for a change wink.gif
post #629 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by nirvana_av View Post

A friend recently purchased the Mitsubishi HC7900dw for his dedicated HT. It seems to be a very nice projector for 2D. However, I haven't seen much mentioned on AVS Forum about this projector and it is a shame that Mitsubishi is getting out of the PJ business. I just didn't see the benefit of paying $1,800 for that model instead of less than $800 for the Optoma or a similar PJ. I have kept my projectors for a very long time, but maybe I need to start "swinging" with the hottest PJ in town for a change wink.gif

The HC8000D is a step up from the 7900, with an additional iris (better blacks), and comes with a spare lamp. $1600 new, shipped currently on ebay (from what appears to be a reputable seller). I checked on the Sharp, but supply seems to have dried up... well over $2k now and not available from too many sellers... ship may have sailed on the XV-Z30000. Again, the value proposition of your options compared to the best bang-for-the-buck PJs available depend largely on your intended use and your environment. If you have a white ceiling with light walls and with your current screen, buying a high-end JVC would be an unbelievable waste of money. If, however, you have decent light control, or can get it with simple measures, the difference in picture quality may very well be worth it. Otherwise, save your money on the PJ and upgrade your screen if you have a bright room that cannot be darkened. Keep in mind, this opinion is coming from someone that has never spent more than $1k on a PJ and currently has 2 .95" DLP machines (one of them a Runco)... yes, I tend to bargain hunt wink.gif
post #630 of 2563
Quote:
Originally Posted by dougri View Post

The HC8000D is a step up from the 7900, with an additional iris (better blacks), and comes with a spare lamp. $1600 new, shipped currently on ebay (from what appears to be a reputable seller). I checked on the Sharp, but supply seems to have dried up... well over $2k now and not available from too many sellers... ship may have sailed on the XV-Z30000. Again, the value proposition of your options compared to the best bang-for-the-buck PJs available depend largely on your intended use and your environment. If you have a white ceiling with light walls and with your current screen, buying a high-end JVC would be an unbelievable waste of money. If, however, you have decent light control, or can get it with simple measures, the difference in picture quality may very well be worth it. Otherwise, save your money on the PJ and upgrade your screen if you have a bright room that cannot be darkened. Keep in mind, this opinion is coming from someone that has never spent more than $1k on a PJ and currently has 2 .95" DLP machines (one of them a Runco)... yes, I tend to bargain hunt wink.gif

That's a great price on the HC8000D. I assume they are a Mitsubishi dealer and that Mitsubishi would honor the 3-year warranty?

My room is totally light controlled and my screen wall is painted a dark gray. I've been more than satisfied with my old DLP projectors in the environment. I assume the newer units wouldn't perform any worse.
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