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Optoma HD131Xe, HD (1080p), 2500 ANSI Lumens, 3D-Home Theater Projector - Sub $800 New Budget King? - Page 24

post #691 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonMango View Post

Thanks for the suggestions however i have done it so that it fits perfectly inside my room i have about 5ft of wall to project onto (living at home as a student for the next 2 years) after that i'll be taking full advantage of a massive screen don't worry. I've done my research on the W1070 and the HD131Xe as i want to game and watch movies the HD131Xe is the one for me with it's low input lag and reportedly it's much better with blacks and shadowing. 

also based on the price versus a tv of equal size and performance the HD131Xe vastly outperforms and out-values every option.


Basically i have no point for the shorter throw due to my wall size also i believe the W1080ST is a bit pricier right i can't remember off the top of my head. 


The only thing i haven't done research on so far is the screen, i've seen some people mention about pure white screens not being best? but a greyish screen being better? also saw someone say they used just a basic white emulsion and it looks perfect. if anyone could take the time to talk about screens or colours that'd be great! 
First off good choice not to go with the w1080...Lots of light leak and uneven screen brightness because of the super short throw optics from the pics and review I saw.

For you going with such a small screen for now I would go gray.... If your going to leave the screen on the wall and dont need a retractable at this time I suggest just painting with one of the colors suggested on the DIY screen board and maybe picking up some black velvet to make a border or use wooded molding painted flat black. If your wall is not smooth pick up a piece of cheap panaling or foamboard to use.

The reasons I suggest this are as follows, for one this like you said its a semi temporary setup and the hd131xe is going to be VERY bright at that close and small of a screen size. the grey will help tone it down like a ND filter would.
Most people thing there is a huge difference in picture quality between screen material and a plain matte white or grey finish but this really only depends on the application. for example many theaters just use a fireprrof form of matte white blackout cloth.
If you need to squeeze extra lumens out of a large image you would want a higher gain screen and thats were it starts to really matter what type you go with as they all steal the light output from various viewing angles from the sides to make the view brighter from front and center.... Think of them as a reflector on a flashlight where with turning the bezel you can make the beam more focused and brighter in the sweet spot or wider and not as bright. the filament or bulb is like the projector.... Most high power screen waste a lot of the extra lument by directing them back up towards the projector mounted on the ceiling...(this is why some mount the projectors an earshot from thier heads and complain about fan noise so much)

I have seen high gain screens in actiion and feel with a reasonable screen size for the light output of the projector they are really not needed at all unless you have an ambient light issue.... they also help by deflecting light that comes at them from a side or indirect angle. This helps give the better percieved blacks (grey screen will do this to an extent too) but again if anyone is going to be sitting against the left and right walls of the theater room a high gain screen will make the image seem very flat and dull because they are sitting outsit the "sweet spot" that the light has been refocused to. I will add that besides a room with ambient light this can help if your side walls are painted white but its a wash if the ceiling and back wall are also white....

This is just my opinions based on what Ive seen and read, if anyone has anything to ad or correct me on please do...

BTW I noticed no picture quality difference going from my homemade blackout cloth screen to my 1.1-1.3 gain electric screen except the electric screen is not flat at the edges and I sometimes see ditortion and now that my new HD131xe is so bright I can see the texture and "HOT" spots where a slight ripple has caused more reflection back to me... again a flat or matte surface would not do this.
post #692 of 2587
I've had my HD131Xe for 2 weeks now.....well, this is my 2nd unit - the first one had an out-of-box DMD problem with vertical lines appearing all across the screen, Optoma suggested to RMA it.

Aside from the corner focus issue (mainly with text, but very livable with images), I've had a few other issues, not sure if this means I have another defective unit or not....being my 1st PJ, not sure if this is normal, or a 2nd lemon (which unfortunately means I send it back):

- while alternating between eco and bright mode last night, (while adjusting pj position with the grid display) the pj suddenly gave me a 'fan locked' error message, flashing leds, and abrubptly shut down. Tried a few times, unplugged the unit, same error. A couple hours later, went back to try again, and it worked fine - watched for 2 hours with no error messages. Is this something to worry about, or just a transient glitch? It's possible that I may have had my hand partially over the side vent while adjusting pj position - so not sure if that may have triggered a 'fan locked' message? Played another 90 minutes this morning, still no error.

- 3D input issue: I have a Sony BDP-S5100 3D BD player. Resolution set to auto (1080p). If streaming or playing 3D media in SBS, it plays fine, and automatically switches res between 720 or 1080 depending on the source media being played. However, if I try to play with the 2D to 3D upconversion on the BD player, with SD media, the PJ won't display anything useful - and the PJ resolution is showing as 1920 x 2228 30Hz.. But if I manually switch the BD to 720p, it will properly upconvert to a pseudo-3D image. So, I'm curious - is this a handshake problem between the BD and 131Xe, an issue with one of the devices, or is this normal behavior for 2D>3D conversion...that I would have to manually reduce the ouput res on the BD to 720p?

-Lamp time : seems to me that is is double the actual time that I've put on it. Currently, showing 22 hours - and at most I've used it for 10-12 hours in eco mode. I unboxed it with 1 hour already logged (weird, as the 1st unit was at 0), then upgraded the f/w to C04, then the next thing I recall noticing it seemed to be counting time twice as fast. I read that a wrong arrow press while in lamp time mode can add 10 hours, but I don't recall that happening. Anybody else notice this?


Thx.
post #693 of 2587
Hi everyone..... just finished catching up on this thread.... I have just mounted and started playing with my 25e...couple questions..

1. Is there a firmware up grade that i NEED to install.... if so, what changes will i see?
2. What glasses? ***I know zip about 3d and have gotten a bit confused about the discussions here on what glasses are best for the 25e. I will be using my PS3 for 3d games and 3d netflix.. later i will get the PS4 and do the same.
The earlier discussions have lead me to believe that i will be best off with active RF glasses, that are capable of syncing to 144hz...Is the Estar America ESG6000 RF-3D (starter Kit with emiter) what i need? Amazon has it for $64.
Naturally i want the best 3Dviewing for the best price..... Pls help me from choosing the wrong ones.

Thanks for any help....
post #694 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

lol if your sitting 12-18ft away maybe but at 8ft your talking sore neck and rainbow city.... come on people lets be realistic a screen that size doesnt belong in a closet sized room....
Suggesting something between 125-140" at a seating distance of 7ft is just bad advice in my opinion.

I would agree with this. We sit 10 to 12 feet away from a 100" screen. For me that is about right. I have considered getting up to a 120" screen but I have a personal preference for seeing the picture as one image, not as something I have to look at in pieces. I do enjoy the IMAX experience, but for myself I prefer the size of screen and distance ratio I have mentioned. I do not find sitting in the front row at the movies as offering a pleasant or realistic display of a film.
But, the nice thing about 1080p viewing is that we can watch a larger, more immersive image than we used to be able to. DLP does offer a cautionary reminder that for some there may be penalties to pay for too much eye movement (RBE).
YMMV.
post #695 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by acee3 View Post

I've had my HD131Xe for 2 weeks now.....well, this is my 2nd unit - the first one had an out-of-box DMD problem with vertical lines appearing all across the screen, Optoma suggested to RMA it.

Aside from the corner focus issue (mainly with text, but very livable with images), I've had a few other issues, not sure if this means I have another defective unit or not....being my 1st PJ, not sure if this is normal, or a 2nd lemon (which unfortunately means I send it back):

- while alternating between eco and bright mode last night, (while adjusting pj position with the grid display) the pj suddenly gave me a 'fan locked' error message, flashing leds, and abrubptly shut down. Tried a few times, unplugged the unit, same error. A couple hours later, went back to try again, and it worked fine - watched for 2 hours with no error messages. Is this something to worry about, or just a transient glitch? It's possible that I may have had my hand partially over the side vent while adjusting pj position - so not sure if that may have triggered a 'fan locked' message? Played another 90 minutes this morning, still no error.

- 3D input issue: I have a Sony BDP-S5100 3D BD player. Resolution set to auto (1080p). If streaming or playing 3D media in SBS, it plays fine, and automatically switches res between 720 or 1080 depending on the source media being played. However, if I try to play with the 2D to 3D upconversion on the BD player, with SD media, the PJ won't display anything useful - and the PJ resolution is showing as 1920 x 2228 30Hz.. But if I manually switch the BD to 720p, it will properly upconvert to a pseudo-3D image. So, I'm curious - is this a handshake problem between the BD and 131Xe, an issue with one of the devices, or is this normal behavior for 2D>3D conversion...that I would have to manually reduce the ouput res on the BD to 720p?

-Lamp time : seems to me that is is double the actual time that I've put on it. Currently, showing 22 hours - and at most I've used it for 10-12 hours in eco mode. I unboxed it with 1 hour already logged (weird, as the 1st unit was at 0), then upgraded the f/w to C04, then the next thing I recall noticing it seemed to be counting time twice as fast. I read that a wrong arrow press while in lamp time mode can add 10 hours, but I don't recall that happening. Anybody else notice this?


Thx.


Regarding the fan lock issue. Another user on this thread had a similar experience. Could be a transient electrical spike, if you are not using a surge/conditioner. Or, you were switching between eco and bright too many times and the projector sensed this a problem. Problems like these can happen if the ground in your house is not properly wired--ie. the ground and neutral and in common. However, the manual says if you have a fan lock issue to call warranty service.

As for the Sony bluray issue, this is NOT an issue with the bluray or the cable. It is with the projector as I have discovered since my Sony works fine with MPO SD images to my HD3300 Optoma, but does the issue you described with the HD131xe. I also switch to 720p and it's fine. And the image does not suffer.

As for lamp time, it appears the HD131xe counts hours for each time the unit is turned on and averages to the next hour when turned off--at least that is my experience. Mine has way more hours on it now than I've used, and I didn't fool around with the firmware. If you noticed, the fan runs about 5 seconds when the unit is turned off--not long, and I think that degrades the lamp. And given the 3k to 6k hours lamp life, it's real life is probably around 1k hours.
post #696 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by acee3 View Post

I've had my HD131Xe for 2 weeks now.....well, this is my 2nd unit - the first one had an out-of-box DMD problem with vertical lines appearing all across the screen, Optoma suggested to RMA it.

Aside from the corner focus issue (mainly with text, but very livable with images), I've had a few other issues, not sure if this means I have another defective unit or not....being my 1st PJ, not sure if this is normal, or a 2nd lemon (which unfortunately means I send it back):

- while alternating between eco and bright mode last night, (while adjusting pj position with the grid display) the pj suddenly gave me a 'fan locked' error message, flashing leds, and abrubptly shut down. Tried a few times, unplugged the unit, same error. A couple hours later, went back to try again, and it worked fine - watched for 2 hours with no error messages. Is this something to worry about, or just a transient glitch? It's possible that I may have had my hand partially over the side vent while adjusting pj position - so not sure if that may have triggered a 'fan locked' message? Played another 90 minutes this morning, still no error.

- 3D input issue: I have a Sony BDP-S5100 3D BD player. Resolution set to auto (1080p). If streaming or playing 3D media in SBS, it plays fine, and automatically switches res between 720 or 1080 depending on the source media being played. However, if I try to play with the 2D to 3D upconversion on the BD player, with SD media, the PJ won't display anything useful - and the PJ resolution is showing as 1920 x 2228 30Hz.. But if I manually switch the BD to 720p, it will properly upconvert to a pseudo-3D image. So, I'm curious - is this a handshake problem between the BD and 131Xe, an issue with one of the devices, or is this normal behavior for 2D>3D conversion...that I would have to manually reduce the ouput res on the BD to 720p?

-Lamp time : seems to me that is is double the actual time that I've put on it. Currently, showing 22 hours - and at most I've used it for 10-12 hours in eco mode. I unboxed it with 1 hour already logged (weird, as the 1st unit was at 0), then upgraded the f/w to C04, then the next thing I recall noticing it seemed to be counting time twice as fast. I read that a wrong arrow press while in lamp time mode can add 10 hours, but I don't recall that happening. Anybody else notice this?


Thx.
it adjusts the lamp counter to reflect life loss for how many times its been turned on and off (you lose roughly 2 hours of lamp life every time the lamp is turned on and more when you refire a warm lamp shortly after turning it off) thats why people who leave it on for longer period get longer bulb life...(same is true for HID headlights and metal halide lighting)
the second issue could be firmware related but if you use the correct resolution and refresh rates it will work correctly , it is an incompatibity of the 3d content and the resolution you were using. for example 1080 3d content needs to be sent @ 24hz (for glasses to sync at 144hz) to work correctly and sbs content is designed for 720p @ 60hz glasses sync at 120hz... I had similiar issues when I was trying to sort it out and outputted 1080p at 60hz in 3d mode from my panny player... (this is an unsupported 3d res) .. you'll know if something is wrong if you see residual shadow like frames in the 3d image meaning the glasses arent perfectly synced with the content and are missing frames. others have mentioned issues with 3d on the ps3.

BTW I would not worry about the fan error unless it returns.
do you have the latest c04 firmware installed? if you have not updated yourself you likely still have c03 as that is what everyone is still getting from optoma with new units...
Edited by augiedoggy - 10/23/13 at 6:40am
post #697 of 2587
Mine is arriving today from Amazon to replace an Acer H5360. Des anyone know what changes are in the update 04 version of the firmware? Did it come with a change log or deal with a specific known issue?
post #698 of 2587
Update to my setup:

Friend came over with ChromaPure calibration tool. Been awhile since he used it. We started with a fresh reset and went to calibrating.

It's definitely looking better compared to the HD25 settings I was initially using found HERE

By no means is it fully calibrated. My friend needs to read up on some items.

I am happy with the progress so far, I just don't know when we'll be able to wrap up the finishing adjustments.

One issue I did have was with the LG BP200 BR player, for some reason I don't have access to color and tint adjustments. When switched over to HTPC, I have those adjustments available.

Couch is 11' from screen, which is the wall. wink.gif

post #699 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitgsx View Post

Update to my setup:

Friend came over with ChromaPure calibration tool. Been awhile since he used it. We started with a fresh reset and went to calibrating.

It's definitely looking better compared to the HD25 settings I was initially using found HERE

By no means is it fully calibrated. My friend needs to read up on some items.

I am happy with the progress so far, I just don't know when we'll be able to wrap up the finishing adjustments.

One issue I did have was with the LG BP200 BR player, for some reason I don't have access to color and tint adjustments. When switched over to HTPC, I have those adjustments available.

Couch is 11' from screen, which is the wall. wink.gif


Please share you settings with us :-)

Weird with my HTPC I don't have color/tint adjustments on my HD25e. What GPU are you using in your HTPC? I'm using Nvidia (old 8800GT card). I wonder what triggers these options to appear, might have to do some googling to find out.
post #700 of 2587
I believe the options show I g up or not have something to do with whether its seeing an RGB or 4:4:4/4:4:2 signal but that's about as much as I understand..
post #701 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

I believe the options show I g up or not have something to do with whether its seeing an RGB or 4:4:4/4:4:2 signal but that's about as much as I understand..

taken from the acutal HD25e manual..... LOL

pg.34 (#1) “Color” and “Tint” are only supported in Video mode.

pg.36 “Color” and “Tint” `` are only supported for composite and component sources.

Not sure how mitgsx has it using his HTPC (component/vga outputs)... I'm pretty sure I had color/tint on HD65 with same HTPC/hmdi cable.

EDIT: augiedoggy like you said it has something to do with RGB sent via HDMI. This is a clip from HD33 review (which probably applies for our models).

If the HD33 receives RGB via HDMI, its color and tint controls are unavailable
Edited by clark17 - 10/23/13 at 10:26am
post #702 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by clark17 View Post

taken from the acutal HD25e manual..... LOL

pg.34 (#1) “Color” and “Tint” are only supported in Video mode.

pg.36 “Color” and “Tint” `` are only supported for composite and component sources.

Not sure how mitgsx has it using his HTPC (component/vga outputs)... I'm pretty sure I had color/tint on HD65 with same HTPC/hmdi cable.

EDIT: augiedoggy like you said it has something to do with RGB sent via HDMI. This is a clip from HD33 review (which probably applies for our models).

If the HD33 receives RGB via HDMI, its color and tint controls are unavailable

I have a ATI 6950 running via hdmi to a RX-V575 receiver. Everything is run into this receiver as hdmi going in.

25ft hdmi from receiver to projector.

Edit: I did remember settings under CCC that refers to what augiedoggy is talking about.

I will post settings once it's fully calibrated. Remember, I am without a screen and just casting on a tanish painted wall currently. My friend did mention I should get a screen of some sort, which will come in time.

Kinda ramping up on studying, per work requirements. Will be a little while to get the calibration finalized because of work schedule.
Edited by mitgsx - 10/23/13 at 10:50am
post #703 of 2587
It's been a LONG time since I've posted anything! I used to have a dedicated theater in my old house. Have since moved and getting back into the home theater scene very slowly.

Recently sold my Mtsubishi HC4000 for the Optoma HD13xe. I'm not going to get into the differences much between the two except that the Optoma is a light canon compared to the Mitsubishi and seems to be MUCH sharper.

I'm not going to lie I upgraded for the 3D.

I've read this forum but wonder about something if anyone has any insights.

My screen is 92" i'm projecting from about 12 feet back, ceiling mounted.

I'm using the off-brand eStar 3D RF glasses and emitter. My Blu Ray player is a small LG Blu Ray player that outputs 24p 3D content.

A couple issues i'm having with the 3D.

(FYI I have an LG 3D tv that uses passive 3D (I think it's called) where the glasses are not powered. And I don't have any eye strain at ALL with that.)

1) I'm having lots of eye strain with the 3D to the point it gives me a headache. I'm seeing lots of flickering in the picture and its difficult for me to move my eyes quickly from one end of the screen to the other without really concentrating to get the picture back in focus. If I look at the screen dead center all is fine.

2) I'm noticing rainbows a lot more on this projector than the Mitsubishi but can't find any documentation that says what speed the color wheel rotates on this projector.

3) I'd love to try tweaking the settings on the RF transmitter to see if that does anything but DANG there are like NO useful instructions anywhere on how to do that or what to look for.

Anyone have any suggestions?
post #704 of 2587
When are y'all gonna post screenshots of your 131s in action??? cool.gif
post #705 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Przybylski View Post



2) I'm noticing rainbows a lot more on this projector than the Mitsubishi but can't find any documentation that says what speed the color wheel rotates on this projector.

Unfortunately I can see RBE, since someone posted what it looked like on a bad youtube video, darn you poster! Biggest thing for me is to focus on the whole screen and not dart my eyes around.

Can I live with the RBE, heck ya, my home theater setup is more than I ever imagined I could put together and afford.

Everyone that has made their way down to my basement has left with their mouths open, hehe.

I have not crossed over to the 3D aspect of big screening yet. biggrin.gif
post #706 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by clark17 View Post

Please share you settings with us :-)

Weird with my HTPC I don't have color/tint adjustments on my HD25e. What GPU are you using in your HTPC? I'm using Nvidia (old 8800GT card). I wonder what triggers these options to appear, might have to do some googling to find out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Przybylski View Post

It's been a LONG time since I've posted anything! I used to have a dedicated theater in my old house. Have since moved and getting back into the home theater scene very slowly.

Recently sold my Mtsubishi HC4000 for the Optoma HD13xe. I'm not going to get into the differences much between the two except that the Optoma is a light canon compared to the Mitsubishi and seems to be MUCH sharper.

I'm not going to lie I upgraded for the 3D.

I've read this forum but wonder about something if anyone has any insights.

My screen is 92" i'm projecting from about 12 feet back, ceiling mounted.

I'm using the off-brand eStar 3D RF glasses and emitter. My Blu Ray player is a small LG Blu Ray player that outputs 24p 3D content.

A couple issues i'm having with the 3D.

(FYI I have an LG 3D tv that uses passive 3D (I think it's called) where the glasses are not powered. And I don't have any eye strain at ALL with that.)

1) I'm having lots of eye strain with the 3D to the point it gives me a headache. I'm seeing lots of flickering in the picture and its difficult for me to move my eyes quickly from one end of the screen to the other without really concentrating to get the picture back in focus. If I look at the screen dead center all is fine.

2) I'm noticing rainbows a lot more on this projector than the Mitsubishi but can't find any documentation that says what speed the color wheel rotates on this projector.

3) I'd love to try tweaking the settings on the RF transmitter to see if that does anything but DANG there are like NO useful instructions anywhere on how to do that or what to look for.

Anyone have any suggestions?
I can say I have no eye strain with my hd131xe but I did have it with my HD 66 with my external 3d converter box...once I figured out I could adjust the intensity of the 3d effect I no longer had any issues. Not really sure about your setup though since your using the ref and I used dlp link.
post #707 of 2587
@Joe przybylski

Try changing 3d glasses polarity, on my you can change it by holding on button for more than one second. I believe you can do that via projector menus too.
However it could be something else.
post #708 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by azzman View Post

Amazon claimed they would ship it for $33 USD to Australia. If it wasent for this lens issues it would be done frown.gif

And I'm quite sure the cost to post back will be far far greater than $33 if you use UPS or similar. The cheapest is sea shipping which may take months. I contemplated the same idea but every time was knocked back by the huge (return) shipping cost. Even the Benq I need to replace it, again due to focusing uniformity. But it is from office works just 50 meters from my work.
post #709 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Przybylski View Post

It's been a LONG time since I've posted anything! I used to have a dedicated theater in my old house. Have since moved and getting back into the home theater scene very slowly.

Recently sold my Mtsubishi HC4000 for the Optoma HD13xe. I'm not going to get into the differences much between the two except that the Optoma is a light canon compared to the Mitsubishi and seems to be MUCH sharper.

I'm not going to lie I upgraded for the 3D.

I've read this forum but wonder about something if anyone has any insights.

My screen is 92" i'm projecting from about 12 feet back, ceiling mounted.

I'm using the off-brand eStar 3D RF glasses and emitter. My Blu Ray player is a small LG Blu Ray player that outputs 24p 3D content.

A couple issues i'm having with the 3D.

(FYI I have an LG 3D tv that uses passive 3D (I think it's called) where the glasses are not powered. And I don't have any eye strain at ALL with that.)

1) I'm having lots of eye strain with the 3D to the point it gives me a headache. I'm seeing lots of flickering in the picture and its difficult for me to move my eyes quickly from one end of the screen to the other without really concentrating to get the picture back in focus. If I look at the screen dead center all is fine.

2) I'm noticing rainbows a lot more on this projector than the Mitsubishi but can't find any documentation that says what speed the color wheel rotates on this projector.

3) I'd love to try tweaking the settings on the RF transmitter to see if that does anything but DANG there are like NO useful instructions anywhere on how to do that or what to look for.

Anyone have any suggestions?
I know this is a stupid question but you do have the projector set for Vesa 3D output as the default is DLP-Link. The Estar glasses shouldn't flicker at all and you shouldn't have to make any adjustments to the emitter for it to properly work. May be a bad emitter.
post #710 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

lol if your sitting 12-18ft away maybe but at 8ft your talking sore neck and rainbow city.... come on people lets be realistic a screen that size doesnt belong in a closet sized room....
Suggesting something between 125-140" at a seating distance of 7ft is just bad advice in my opinion.

Don't blame me for the bad advise. I was responding to the poster who said "the projector will only be situated about 7'8" away". So he only said the PJ is 8" away, did not say he sits at that distance.
Edited by hotjt133 - 10/23/13 at 2:47pm
post #711 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotjt133 View Post

Don't blame me for the bad advise. I was responding to the poster who said "the projector will only be situated about 7'8" away". So he only said the PJ is 8" away, did not say he sits at that distance.
I Well I think I under stood it differently (and correctly apparently) because he did go on to state that it was a small room and that was as big as he could do because he was living with parents temporarily....
I'll edit my statement to say it would be bad advise if the viewer was sitting in an 8ft room (about 7 ft from screen)
post #712 of 2587
But his second post was after I put up my comments. And I'm not interested to modify mine for that matter. Had he said earlier I would even suggest a TV...

In any way, a 67" is not the size for a projector. That's TV territory. And 2 years is a long time. After 2 years there will be better ones coming out. So there is no point to buy it now and only use to its full potential after 2 years. But that's my opinion and I've done with this topic.
post #713 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotjt133 View Post

But his second post was after I put up my comments. And I'm not interested to modify mine for that matter. Had he said earlier I would even suggest a TV...

In any way, a 67" is not the size for a projector. That's TV territory. And 2 years is a long time. After 2 years there will be better ones coming out. So there is no point to buy it now and only use to its full potential after 2 years. But that's my opinion and I've done with this topic.
So he should spend $1000 now to have a 67 tv and then spend another $800 in two years because you feel 67" is not projector territory? how does that make sense?...I guess you wouldnt be happy about 72" screen in the bedroom were I put my old HD65 to use.. I dont really understand why it so wrong but yes you are entitled to your opinion.
this is getting off topic and petty and its not really related to my comments about 130" screens at 8 feet which was my comment was about...
Edited by augiedoggy - 10/23/13 at 6:23pm
post #714 of 2587
About to pull the trigger on this one. To those getting great 3d, what glasses did you get? I've been reading the thread and rf glasses seem to be the best ones. And I need to buy an emitter right?
post #715 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by nosdavid View Post

About to pull the trigger on this one. To those getting great 3d, what glasses did you get? I've been reading the thread and rf glasses seem to be the best ones. And I need to buy an emitter right?
the Estar ones are likely made by the same company in the same line as the optoma branded ones which are sold to optoma and then marked up tremendously. they appear identical in everyway and I read that they make them for optoma.
I would suggest these, you can get one pair of glasses with the emitter in a starter kit for like $60-70 at places like amazon and ebay.
post #716 of 2587

i will be immensely happy with the size of the screen i'll be getting, screensize versus sitting position is extremely relevant. in bed my phone screen is amazing i wouldn't want to hold a 19inch screen up to my face in bed but at work anywhere around that is fine for the desk + sitting distant i'm at. Also the buying a 67inch tv in england will cost alot more than straight currency coversion from the us equivalent also i don't care about smart and around that size it's mainly smart the input lag of bigger tvs also gets crazily high. i'll probably be keeping this projector for longer than 2 years or atleast until 4k becomes the new standard and cheap. 

post #717 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

it adjusts the lamp counter to reflect life loss for how many times its been turned on and off (you lose roughly 2 hours of lamp life every time the lamp is turned on and more when you refire a warm lamp shortly after turning it off) thats why people who leave it on for longer period get longer bulb life...(same is true for HID headlights and metal halide lighting)
the second issue could be firmware related but if you use the correct resolution and refresh rates it will work correctly , it is an incompatibity of the 3d content and the resolution you were using. for example 1080 3d content needs to be sent @ 24hz (for glasses to sync at 144hz) to work correctly and sbs content is designed for 720p @ 60hz glasses sync at 120hz... I had similiar issues when I was trying to sort it out and outputted 1080p at 60hz in 3d mode from my panny player... (this is an unsupported 3d res) .. you'll know if something is wrong if you see residual shadow like frames in the 3d image meaning the glasses arent perfectly synced with the content and are missing frames. others have mentioned issues with 3d on the ps3.

BTW I would not worry about the fan error unless it returns.
do you have the latest c04 firmware installed? if you have not updated yourself you likely still have c03 as that is what everyone is still getting from optoma with new units...

Ahhh, so that's how the lamp counter bases hours on. Tks.

Yes, I did flash C04 f/w.

Regarding the 2D to 3D issue coming from the Sony BD player (not PS3): this is only a problem when trying to view 2D SD media in 3D mode....I would have thought 'auto' or 'native' res settings on the Sony would send the proper signal to the PJ (eg, switching to 720p to accomodate the media being upconverted to 3D)....and not this weird, unsupported 1920 x 2228 30Hz (which doesn't display anything).
post #718 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by acee3 View Post

Ahhh, so that's how the lamp counter bases hours on. Tks.

Yes, I did flash C04 f/w.

Regarding the 2D to 3D issue coming from the Sony BD player (not PS3): this is only a problem when trying to view 2D SD media in 3D mode....I would have thought 'auto' or 'native' res settings on the Sony would send the proper signal to the PJ (eg, switching to 720p to accomodate the media being upconverted to 3D)....and not this weird, unsupported 1920 x 2228 30Hz (which doesn't display anything).
I get the same weird res that displays black when I tried turning off my 24fps mode and went to 1080p60hz so I'm going to assume that was what your sony was sending.... I also get sound but just black on the display and this was with my panasonic BDT 210 3d player.. I also saw this with 2d to 3d only so my thoughts are when doing this manual conversion in the player the automated features that would automatically display the correct timings are somehow non functional?
Edited by augiedoggy - 10/24/13 at 5:08am
post #719 of 2587
Hi everyone....posted this a few days ago and didnt get any replys....this is all about my newly aquired 25e....

1. What glasses? I know zip about 3d and have gotten a bit confused about the discussions here on what glasses are best for the 25e. I will be using my PS3 for 3d games and 3d netflix.. later i will get the PS4 and do the same.
The earlier discussions have lead me to believe that i will be best off with active RF glasses, that are capable of syncing to 144hz...Is the Estar America ESG6000 RF-3D (starter Kit with emiter) what i need? Amazon has it for $64.
Naturally i want the best 3Dviewing for the best price..... Pls help me from choosing the wrong ones.

2. Is there a firmware up grade that i NEED to install.... if so, what changes will i see?

3. How do I "flash" the firmware update.....through the RS232 connector?

Thanks for any help....
post #720 of 2587
Quote:
Originally Posted by catherwood View Post

Hi everyone....posted this a few days ago and didnt get any replys....this is all about my newly aquired 25e....

1. What glasses? I know zip about 3d and have gotten a bit confused about the discussions here on what glasses are best for the 25e. I will be using my PS3 for 3d games and 3d netflix.. later i will get the PS4 and do the same.
The earlier discussions have lead me to believe that i will be best off with active RF glasses, that are capable of syncing to 144hz...Is the Estar America ESG6000 RF-3D (starter Kit with emiter) what i need? Amazon has it for $64.
Naturally i want the best 3Dviewing for the best price..... Pls help me from choosing the wrong ones.

2. Is there a firmware up grade that i NEED to install.... if so, what changes will i see?

3. How do I "flash" the firmware update.....through the RS232 connector?

Thanks for any help....

1) RF Estars from amazon or 3D-VIP RF from consignia.ca (if you are in Canada). I got 2 pairs of 3D-VIP glasess from consignia and they are working the same as Optoma. Apparently Estars/3D-VIP are made by the same factory who makes original Optomas. The firmware might be different. I'm only usign SBS 3D, so I cannot comment on PS3 games or 3D netflix.
2) see above posts... you can register for firmware upgrade on Optoma site. We do not know what the changes are, optoma does not list them.
3) usb port on the back...

I recommend downloading Optoma HD25e manual for you and skim through it. Also search this thread which contains a lot of useful info and links.
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