The door will always be the weakest spot in your soundproofing envelope, followed closely by HVAC. This room was no different, but I have to say I was very happy with the end result.
That particular door was just a standard off-the-shelf 6 pocket solid core pre-hung unit. Yours should be much better with the extra mass and Green Glue. That install was 10 years ago in 2004, fyi.
The 119s were very easy to install because they come with a Pressure Sensitive Adhesive and just stick into place. I J-rolled the living Hell out of them to make sure they never moved. If I had to redo that part of the install, I would have cut a very slight miter to get a tight fit into the corners. You can see in the pics above that I only butted the 119 seals as close as I could.
The other thing I recall was that I had to run the door through my table saw and take off 1/8" or less on the strike side and the top to accommodate the metal seal. On the hinge side you can imagine that cutting the door down would do nothing to move the hinge side of the door away from the hinges, so I used an old carpenter's trick and shimmed out the jamb side of the hinge attachment by putting one or two cardboard shims under each hinge. This causes the hinge to sit slightly proud of the jamb, maybe a 1/16"+, but it didn't take much to make a difference on the tightness of the door.
Here's some STC numbers from Zero with different seal approaches: http://www.zeroplus.co.uk/products/door-seals/door-sets/typical-example-sets-of-zero-acoustic-seals/
EDIT: By the way, that extra piece of door stop you see in some of the pictures actually bridges the gap between the split jamb. It is only fastened on one side and essentially "floats" over the gap in the jamb to finish off the look. This was a double studded wall install with the one inch air gap in between. It just so-happened that by the door there was a support post that had to be accommodated in the overall depth.Edited by TMcG - 10/8/13 at 1:17pm