Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S
That's a variation on what I've tried in the past; I adjust the 5% greyscale slot down to 1% (maybe 0.5% I can't remember at the moment) and increase the 'luma' setting by 0.1 or 0.2 which makes the 17 bar more visible, but without raising the absolute black level.
Maybe we're both saying the same thing, but I leave the 0% slot at 0, so I think we might differ slightly (whether it makes any difference which method used is another matter).
My biggest issue is improving my room and/or changing to a different screen otherwise there is little point in upgrading to the newer models anyway...
Sorry for the late reply but I kind of saw this briefly when you posted and then forgot about it.
I remember our discussion (you might even have been the one who suggested this tip to me) and I'm sure your solution works great in your set up, but my problem with using the IRE5 point is twofold. First I lose my calibration point at 5% white, which I find important especially when using BT1886, and second 1% is further away from black than 0% (obviously) so I had to move it up quite a lot before I could start getting some results very near black.
Using the IRE0 point, if you are careful, allows you to not to touch your 5% white calibration, so you have finer control between 1% and 10%, which is very important on most displays, plus you only need a couple of clicks up to get IRE0 to show level 17-18. On my rs45 (X30), I set it to 000.3.
You do have to be careful though because as it is IRE0, if you go too far, it does raise your black level. But used properly, it's kind of a brightness control with a finer granularity than the JVC control.
I'd love to hear your results if you try this variation compared to your method. It might be worse in your setup, but it might also allow you to keep your control point at 5% and get more precise shadow details.
For those who would like to try, you can do this before an auto cal, but as most calibration software reset all the CMS data before an auto cal, you would also have to adjust this point after each auto-calibration. Try Kelvin's method or my variation, and keep the one that works best for you.
For those not familiar with the Radiance (not you, Kelvin
) who would like to try this tip to show level 17-18 with a JVC, first display a pattern that shows all the levels near black, from your primary source (BD player for most, mine is an HTPC). An excellent and free option is the brightness pattern from the AVS HD disc, but there are others. This one is one of my favourites because it clearly displays levels 2-25 with blinking bars, so it's very readable (and confusion free for the newbie). I use HDMI standard, so both brightness and contrast on the JVC are at zero. I find it preferable to use a pattern from the source because you are sure that way that you are adjusting for the actual content, not for the internal Lumagen patterns.
Then you have to go (using the Lumagen remote) to Menu, Output, CMS's, select your CMS, then grey/gamma, 21 points (or whatever you use, be careful though as changing the number of points resets all the values). Then the point selected is 21. You need to go up arrow once to select point 1, which defaults to IRE 0, then move right arrow twice to select the luma value, and up arrow 2-3 times to raise the luma for IRE 0 until 17 just barely shows. Mine is 000.3, yours might be slightly less or slightly more. Make sure you do not raise your black level going higher than necessary. You want to show 18, and barely show 17. If in doubt, play it safe with the lower value. Better not to show 17 than to raise your black level and kill your on/off contrast.
To check you haven't raised your black level, simply display a full field black pattern and press hide on the remote. There shouldn't be any difference. If the pattern is brighter when you unhide, you have raised your black level so you need to re-do the procedure and lower the luma value.
If you're happy with the results, save the changes in the Lumagen menu.
If you have made a mistake or are not sure, simply power the Radiance off without saving, then back on.
In any case, any change made in the gamma table will be erased during the next auto cal session, so you will have to make the changes again then. It takes only a few seconds once you're used to doing it.
I hope I'm not boring everyone, but as I see many complaints about crushed black levels, this is a solution that works on many models, as long as you have a Radiance of course. Hopefully it will also work with the new models.
If you try please let us know if it works for you.