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Klipsch rw-12d Amp Repair

post #1 of 24
Thread Starter 
Hi guys, I've had a Klipsch rw-12d subwoofer for about 7 years that recently stopped working. I tried replacing the fuse with the appropriate 3.15A 250V slow burn fuse but they all burnt instantly. I removed the amp plate and discovered some charring on a few resistors and diodes on what appears to be the power supply. I contacted Klipsch and they said they could send me a new amp for $270. The fried part on the board looks like it'd cost a few dollars to someone with an electronics background. There seem to be three options: Get replacement from Klipsch, get a third party amp like the BASH 300w or figure out how to replace the appropriate components on the board. I am willing to attempt the soldering myself if someone can point me in the right direction for what components are fried. If there is a solution for less $200, I'm cool with that too. Can anyone point me in a direction?

The board says "indigo canada 600130 Rev.0"

photo.JPG 2166k .JPG file
post #2 of 24
For that amount, why not just wait until Newegg runs a $280 sale on these and just buy a new one?
post #3 of 24
Thread Starter 
The model has been discontinued so I'm unsure if newegg will ever carry it again. That would be a good option though.
post #4 of 24
Thread Starter 
Can anyone tell me what capacitors are needed in the RW-12D schematic on the power supply board at spots C414, C413, and the two directly below? C413 still reads 104 on it. They are the ones busted in my photo from the first post. I found the schematic for the RW-12 but the boards are probably different. Or if anyone has the schematic for RW-12D, please share.

I believe they're 1µF 100v capacitors.
Edited by jsnrkd - 8/20/13 at 9:08am
post #5 of 24
Hi. I have 2 subwoofers. One with same problem as yours. But it has slow 1.6A fuse. Do i have wrong fuse? Can i somehow compare components on the circuitboard?
post #6 of 24
post #7 of 24
This one seems to be dead. Its behind the black cord from powerswitch. What kind om component is it?
post #8 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsnrkd View Post

The model has been discontinued so I'm unsure if newegg will ever carry it again. That would be a good option though.

This is a very good excuse to upgrade your subwoofer. Can your budget handle the price of an upgrade?

You're welcome to "TRY" and desolder, with the "INTENT" of replacing the resistors. That is if you're able to figure out the fried color code. And even then, after all the repair effort, you may find you made things "A WHOLE LOT WORSE."

(I suck at desoldering)

It all depends on if you're feeling "Dirty Harry" lucky or Saturday night lucky. tongue.gif

Well?........Are you feeling lucky?

And if not, use this as an excuse to add a Rythmik, LV12R (or better) to your credit card.

(fyi, that's how we ended up with a 60" flat screen. The Olympics were going start on Sunday and Saturday morning, when the wife turned the television on, oh darn, the television took a dump.)
post #9 of 24
Much easier and cheeper desoldering it. Can't be so hard when i have a working one in the other subwoofer. Btw where do you see colorcodes on this component BeeMan458. You suck on electronics too. Not only desoldering. smile.gif
post #10 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by RW12D View Post

Btw where do you see colorcodes on this component BeeMan458. You suck on electronics too. Not only desoldering. smile.gif

The color rings on the resistors that give resistor value. Granted, the black when the resistor blew, ruined the value rings, which will make it difficult to read the code to replace the with the correct value resistor. Maybe the removed resistor will wipe clean. And yes, I'm not an electronic type so it's a fair assessment to say, I suck at electronics.

Magnifying the image, in the blackened shadows, I see it's not a resistor. I can't tell what part is fried. Either which way, to whom ever tries to repair the board.......good-luck with that. One can always choose to replace the amplifier.

-
Edited by BeeMan458 - 9/4/13 at 4:55am
post #11 of 24
It's a thermal resistor. 10ohm 4A. 1$ each. smile.gif
post #12 of 24
Well.......looks like it didn't do too good of a job resisting thermals. tongue.gif

Bless those willing to desolder a board so they can replace a blown thermal resistor and sainthood status for those who succeed.
post #13 of 24
(#4) SCK104?
post #14 of 24
Not being an ET type, I'm dependent on Google to further my education on pretty much anything and this is what I found.

Now, about those fried little critters directly below the resistors. As to desoldering and replacing anything, I'm going stick with ordering up a replacement Amp as that's my skill level.
post #15 of 24
Thread Starter 
Hey RW12D, in the picture you posted, my cap is blown in that same place too. I actually hadn't noticed that one until you pointed it out. Have you found the part for that yet? Also, which part are you referring to in your last post?
post #16 of 24
As encouragement, were you able to take a peak at the posted link I left in the post above yours?

(Google, the underutilized resource of the early twenty-first century)
post #17 of 24
It
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsnrkd View Post

Hey RW12D, in the picture you posted, my cap is blown in that same place too. I actually hadn't noticed that one until you pointed it out. Have you found the part for that yet? Also, which part are you referring to in your last post?
It's the thermistor SCK104 10ohm 4A. I ordered it from China. Couldn't find it here in Sweden or in Turkey. Strange. Or not. The s..t is made in China. I hope the rest of components works.
http://m.aliexpress.com/search.htm?keywords=sck104
Jsnrkd. What about the other components? C413, C414! What happend with them?
post #18 of 24

Now i see black, burned components.
Can this be what you are looking for?
http://m.aliexpress.com/item/1021605301.html
post #19 of 24
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the links to the parts. I decided to ship the amp in for repair instead of making this my first soldering project. Once I get it back, I'll let you know the details.
post #20 of 24
Thread Starter 
Thank you all for commenting on my thread. My subwoofer is working again. I shipped the board into Sybesma’s Electronics in Michigan per the recommendation of Klispch's support. Total cost including shipping both ways was about $220 which cheaper than what getting the part straight from Klipsch. They said the board wasn't worth repairing and sent me a new amplifier. Turn around was about 5 days. Overall good experience and pleased to have my subwoofer working again. I will use them again in the future if needed.
post #21 of 24
Do you ha a schematic of the amp? I have the same problem with blown fuses. Let me know how things went with your repair.
post #22 of 24

i had to order 4 if you need one email.junk@aol.com yes its really my email ( Thermistors 10ohms 5Amp 15mm disk} 

post #23 of 24
The Klipsch RW-12D is still alive. Now look at the new Klipsch RW-12DII for $499.

http://www.wwstereo.com/Klipsch/1016334
post #24 of 24

What did you ever do with your subwoofer,  I have a rw12d as well with the same problem except I can see any visual problems??

 

 

Brian

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