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Your Home Theater ULF Score - Page 19

post #541 of 1882
I'm curious where I'm at...

Room is 16'6" x 14' x 7'
Have 4x FTW21's and 4x SI18's
Amps are Fp10000Q and EP4000

10Q is bridged.
1 channel driving 4200W to 2x FTW21 at 8ohm, other channel driving 5000W to 4x SI18's at 4 ohms
EP4000 bridged driving 2x FTW21's at 8ohm.

Having problems putting in the numbers redface.gif
Can someone help?

Thanks
post #542 of 1882
I believe it's 126 or 5-star, Fatshaft
post #543 of 1882
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

I always felt that including adjacent rooms depends on how the layout is. Is it an open room or is it a open door to the next room? I say this because my room is small(thank you short ceilings) and I have double doors that open in the middle to create a big opening for big equipment, you know, just in case. They are standard 7 feet by 3 feet each so combined they open to a 7 feet tall by 6 feet wide space. If I open those doors I am seeing another space that is much larger than my theater. However, all my measurements and spl are the same at my LP as the bass hits me the same way. Just like Pop's room, yeah it opens to another area but I bet it acts like a 1600 cubic foot room and not a 2600 cubic foot space. I don't know how big of an opening matters but the main room matters most. Now if you have a huge room that is separated by a island or something then the whole area will be used and the sub will lose that battle. I wonder at what size of an opening where it really matters.

I've been meaning to post this on the first post, but I remember reading a post from basshead that I think is a good guideline and the basis for the below:

 

  • If the opening is approximately less than half the size of the longest wall, then don't include the adjoining space. If it is larger, then include it.

 

Certainly odd shaped rooms this will be more difficult to determine, but you get the picture. 

 

I know, not much science to support it other than a gut feeling, but what do you all think?

post #544 of 1882
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatshaft View Post

I'm curious where I'm at...

Room is 16'6" x 14' x 7'
Have 4x FTW21's and 4x SI18's
Amps are Fp10000Q and EP4000

10Q is bridged.
1 channel driving 4200W to 2x FTW21 at 8ohm, other channel driving 5000W to 4x SI18's at 4 ohms
EP4000 bridged driving 2x FTW21's at 8ohm.

Having problems putting in the numbers redface.gif
Can someone help?

Thanks

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by nfraso View Post

I believe it's 126 or 5-star, Fatshaft

Right on! Very Impressive Fatshaft! Good to hear from a fellow FTW'r. :)

post #545 of 1882
So......,,..if I'm getting this right

In 4300cf room

One S2 = 3 SI at 12.5 hz

Four UXL-18's @ 12.5 hz is 4X1.5 SI = 6 SI

4300/9= 478 ULF rounded?


What the heck am I thinking?biggrin.gif
Edited by doublewing11 - 11/14/13 at 8:09pm
post #546 of 1882
Quote:
Originally Posted by nfraso View Post

I believe it's 126 or 5-star, Fatshaft

nfraso,
Thanks for the help...is that 126@10HZ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dominguez1 View Post


Right on! Very Impressive Fatshaft! Good to hear from a fellow FTW'r. smile.gif

You know dominguez1 that the purchase of my FTW21's was all your fault right? (Thanks) biggrin.gif

So does that mean I'm ONLY 3 away from JapanDave? eek.gif
post #547 of 1882
Quote:
Originally Posted by dominguez1 View Post

I know, not much science to support it other than a gut feeling, but what do you all think?

Via measurements, a correction factor can be created?

Expected output vs measured output; creating a correction factor when openings are given a ratio based on the longest wall?

Total square foot measurement of openings/total square foot measurement of longest wall?

If a cathedral ceiling, does a correction need to be added in to allow for the increase of height, due to the angle of incline of the ceiling, attached to the longest wall?

-
post #548 of 1882
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatshaft View Post


nfraso,
Thanks for the help...is that 126@10HZ?
You know dominguez1 that the purchase of my FTW21's was all your fault right? (Thanks) biggrin.gif

So does that mean I'm ONLY 3 away from JapanDave? eek.gif

Glad I could help. :D

 

Yes, 126@10hz, and 3 away from JapanDave! You guys are sick...

post #549 of 1882
Thread Starter 

New ULF Score Calculator Released

 

  • Much more intuitive. Just enter room size, find your subs, and enter qty
  • Automatically identifies ULF Score, Stars, and relative Reference Output by ULF frequency
  • Now you can factor in the cost of your subs to determine how much your willing to spend or have spent to get a certain ULF perspective (category). I've input the cost of Commercial Subs, but you can also input the cost for DIY subs manually.
  • Calculates the cost per SI: This is an indication for the "bang for the buck" of your all your subs from a ULF perspective
  • Calculates the cost per ULF Star: This is an indication for the "bang for the buck" for your HT from a ULF perspective (factors in room size, subs, and cost)
  • I've also tweaked the Star methodology: Your highest star for your lowest frequency carries forward to the other ULF frequencies. Example: If you can reach 5 stars at 10hz, you can reach 5 stars for all ULF frequencies. However if you can only reach 3 stars at 12.5hz and can reach 4.5 stars at 16hz, it will not change the 12.5z rating to 4.5 stars.

 

I've attached it to this post, as well as post 1.

 

Home Theater ULF Score Calculator v12.1.xls 101k .xls file

 

Below is an example of my full ULF Score:

 

 

Let me know of any errors and what you all think!

 

-Dom


Edited by dominguez1 - 11/16/13 at 12:20pm
post #550 of 1882
Sweet dude. Thanks for all the great work. I love this thread smile.gif. My second FV15hp has been ordered. Should be awesome 4- 4.5 stars.
post #551 of 1882
Was a correction factor figured out for main listening room openings to adjacent rooms?

(and as always, I don't have XLS. don't need it so I haven't purchased and installed a copy)

-
Edited by BeeMan458 - 11/16/13 at 8:00am
post #552 of 1882
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

Was a factor figured out for room openings to adjacent rooms?

Unfortunately no...not sure how to tackle that one in a simple way. I'd go by the guideline I mentioned here.

post #553 of 1882
Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by dominguez1 View Post

Unfortunately no...not sure how to tackle that one in a simple way. I'd go by the guideline I mentioned here.

From above link:

Quote:
I've been meaning to post this on the first post, but I remember reading a post from basshead that I think is a good guideline and the basis for the below:

  • If the opening is approximately less than half the size of the longest wall, then don't include the adjoining space. If it is larger, then include it.

Then the above is what I'll go by as the three openings our listening room contends with, is a bit "...less than half the size of the longest wall...".

The above being the case, when installed in our 3300^3 room, a pair of FV15HPs will give us a ULF score of 868 or a four star system. That'll work. biggrin.gif

(and later, should I feel the need more, the simple addition of a third FV15HP will seal the deal)

-
Edited by BeeMan458 - 11/16/13 at 9:01am
post #554 of 1882
Do we round off our room sizes to get the sq footage? Like my ht rm is 19'6" x 17'8" x 9'8"= 3332 sq exact dimensions. So should I round off to 20 x 18 x 10= 3600 sq
post #555 of 1882
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhed View Post

Do we round off our room sizes to get the sq footage? Like my ht rm is 19'6" x 17'8" x 9'8"= 3332 sq exact dimensions. So should I round off to 20 x 18 x 10= 3600 sq

In nature, since analogue sine waves don't round themselves off, I'd stick with your first total. But if for ease of memory, you rounded to 3,300^3, I don't think anybody is going pull your beer.

(and if they do, I'll get the next round)

-
Edited by BeeMan458 - 11/16/13 at 9:31am
post #556 of 1882
Thread Starter 

Time to pay some homage to the new ULF champion, N8DOGG!

 

 

His HT ULF score ended up being: 78@10hz and 53@16hz!!! Check out above how many SIs that is in his room!

 

To put things in perspective, JapanDave and MK have been past ULF leaders: you'd have to double their subs in each of their rooms to mimic N8DOGGs ULF score at 16hz! :eek:

 

Here are some pics of his room:

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

Heres a couple pics of the kids biggrin.gif :


 
post #557 of 1882
You need a six star category.....anything under a score of 100, for "Insane Output"

How much more output (power) does one need to go from four star to what N8DOGG has?
post #558 of 1882
You don't need another category as I can assure you that any 5 star system can not be played at max already because it would destroy some ear drums. A score of 250 would do that, at 10hz!
post #559 of 1882
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

You don't need another category as I can assure you that any 5 star system can not be played at max already because it would destroy some ear drums. A score of 250 would do that, at 10hz!

Que?
post #560 of 1882
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

You don't need another category as I can assure you that any 5 star system can not be played at max already because it would destroy some ear drums. A score of 250 would do that, at 10hz!

That's why I named a six star system, "Insane Output." At that level of output, I would hazard a guess, normal listening isn't the point. I see it in the light of really, really, really fast cars, aren't for the mentally stable. A mentally stable person, still has their survival instinct intact. tongue.gif

Ourselves (me), a four star system, with an option to grow to a four-and-a-half star system, is more than enough output for our needs.

-
Edited by BeeMan458 - 11/16/13 at 10:17am
post #561 of 1882
Define insane output? If I added 8 more drivers I would be in the 50's for a score and able to play 6 dBs louder. I can already play ear bleeding levels so 6 dBs more would be more blood!
post #562 of 1882
BTW, I am welcoming anyone to go crazy as it is fun BUT how loud one enjoys their system should be what you go after. I could get reference levels at 10hz with a 650 score. That would be 2 of my eD subs I had. The rest is for spirited levels. I personally can not take that much of 130 dBs of bass in my room as it causes so much pressure it hurts the ears! I can produce more than that but I do like hearing. I probably play lower than many that have crazy systems. My limit is reference for the speakers and 10 dBs for the LFE. With the new IB that might be 5 dBs hot on the bass.
post #563 of 1882
Wait till beast gets his sixth order bandbass in order.

It sims at 130db at 10Hz...That doesn't include his 8 SI's.

From a "ULF" standpoint...yeah...what does that score?
post #564 of 1882
Thats it...I'm buying 3x SI24's to add to my already insane room ...then we'll see!!!

I agree do an insane level 6!
I want to go to a 6 now biggrin.gif
post #565 of 1882
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

Define insane output?

Well, there's "ear bleed" and there's "more ear bleed." At this point, it's all a matter of how much blood is being pumped out through your ear canals. eek.giftongue.gif

Okay, here is is, when you're outproducing the sonic output of a 747 (140dB) you're in the "insane" level.

(does that work?)

(what's the output of a Shuttle launch?)

"Top 10 Loudest Noises"

-
Edited by BeeMan458 - 11/16/13 at 11:53am
post #566 of 1882
I'm about with MK, reference + 8-10dB hot on the subs is about as much as I can handle. To the guys who have crazy systems, it's not about watching movies super loud, it about having the power to listen to any level, with minimal distortion. At reference, I'm using around 500 watts per driver, that means ultra clean, distortion free bass. It really does make a difference (though it's fun to crank it up and have some ultra insane demos once in a while! lol)

The JTR's can handle any output you can stand in the room with ease, so now finally, my subs can match any output the JTR's can dish out..... lol.

What I'm planning in my new house (once it gets built) will easily double what I have now. Mark from Mach 5 just laughed at me and when he dropped off my last 4 FTW's, he just smiled and rolled his eyes lol. I'm hoping it will be the end to any possible upgrades....... the key word is "hope" hahaha.

Every driver other than the G-horns, has 1 channel of a FP14 clone on them (4400 watts per channel) each amp is on it's own 20A line and 2 are on a 30A line. The G-Horn is on a peavy ipr2 7500 and my 2242's have a inuke 6000dsp.
post #567 of 1882
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhed View Post

Do we round off our room sizes to get the sq footage? Like my ht rm is 19'6" x 17'8" x 9'8"= 3332 sq exact dimensions. So should I round off to 20 x 18 x 10= 3600 sq

I'd try and get it as exact as impossible, so 3332cf is fine. Quad S2s, right???

 

3332cf / 11.2 SI = 298 or 5 Star ULF!

 

Awesome choice of subs! That's going to be one heck of a setup...I do believe you may be the first Commercial sub HT with a 5 Star@10hz ULF score! 

post #568 of 1882
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

What I'm planning in my new house (once it gets built) will easily double what I have now. 

:eek::eek: :eek:

 

Are you doing IB?

post #569 of 1882
I am loving the IB/baffle wall setup. If anything the wall has decreased decay times by a significant amount.
post #570 of 1882
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

I'm about with MK, reference + 8-10dB hot on the subs is about as much as I can handle. To the guys who have crazy systems, it's not about watching movies super loud, it about having the power to listen to any level, with minimal distortion. At reference, I'm using around 500 watts per driver, that means ultra clean, distortion free bass. It really does make a difference (though it's fun to crank it up and have some ultra insane demos once in a while! lol)

The JTR's can handle any output you can stand in the room with ease, so now finally, my subs can match any output the JTR's can dish out..... lol.

What I'm planning in my new house (once it gets built) will easily double what I have now. Mark from Mach 5 just laughed at me and when he dropped off my last 4 FTW's, he just smiled and rolled his eyes lol. I'm hoping it will be the end to any possible upgrades....... the key word is "hope" hahaha.

Every driver other than the G-horns, has 1 channel of a FP14 clone on them (4400 watts per channel) each amp is on it's own 20A line and 2 are on a 30A line. The G-Horn is on a peavy ipr2 7500 and my 2242's have a inuke 6000dsp.


Have you done any comparing to see how many FTW's it takes to = the output of 1 GHorn?
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