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which would be better for ported... - Page 7

post #181 of 264
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the compliment its brainless to make bracing like this with nothing but a chop saw.

Lol yes I left that one T brace out so I could get in there and wipe down pl and install the braces on the open panels side once I put it on. Lol
post #182 of 264
here is an example of what i mean, braces could be cut too short in order to ensure that they won't need any additional cutting, but because they overlap, once glued/screwed into place, they wouldn't be going anywhere.



you guys have done nice work with your braces. i'm just still thinking about how to get the marty sub simplified to something that can be chopped up at home depot without making precision cuts.
post #183 of 264
all the pictures that you guys are taking are really great too by the way. i'm probably going to go through and pull them all into a post or "plan" at some point so folks won't have to read through the whole work in process thread to get a sense for what to do.
post #184 of 264
Thread Starter 
a gallery of builds for this particular one would be really cool. see all the different takes on the original build in one place as well as a template for others to see exactly HOW it fits together
post #185 of 264
I like that idea, LTD02! It would be nice if we could have a summery thread with regards to the Marty Sub, one that has all of the pictures, and summery of all the post/questions that were asked along the way. I would like to see a thread drawn up similar to lilmikes F20 thread.
post #186 of 264
Thread Starter 
last panel on the first box and all the window braces ready to be glued in tomorrow on the second one!!!

we made a boo boo though. the braces we THOUGH were cut to fit but were 16/th of an inch too high (same with the back for some reason) so the last side panel didn't fit as smoothly as it should.. it's all sealed with the amount of PL we slopped in there though.

we'll have to float those edges with wood filler or Bondo (not sure which one sticks to PL better) since the edges are raised like the picture all the way around that panel





any idea of whether I should use wood filler or bondo to float those edges ??? (wasn't sure if I should use bondo since I heard it doesn't like duratex very well)

also should I get the quart jar or the pint jar of either one?
Edited by wormraper - 9/26/13 at 1:07am
post #187 of 264
Why don't you you a router to flush trim those edges?
post #188 of 264
Quote:
we'll have to float those edges with wood filler or Bondo (not sure which one sticks to PL better) since the edges are raised like the picture all the way around that panel

Is the booboo on top or the bottom worm? maybe both from the sounds of it? Wish the panel extended instead of being short, you could do the trim bit then.
post #189 of 264
Actually, a lot of builders prefer to build with the overhang just to be sure they aren't too short since trimming the excess off with a router is a piece of cake.
post #190 of 264
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickD1225 View Post

Actually, a lot of builders prefer to build with the overhang just to be sure they aren't too short since trimming the excess off with a router is a piece of cake.

+1 That's what I do. Coming up short is a reall b!
post #191 of 264
Use a sharp chisel to remove that excess pl, then float it with bondo. Duratex sticks to bondo fine. If you 1/2" round-over your edges there will hardly be any bondo on there anyway.
post #192 of 264
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

Is the booboo on top or the bottom worm? maybe both from the sounds of it? Wish the panel extended instead of being short, you could do the trim bit then.

it's technically the side panel (it looks like the top panel but as you can tell from the picture it's the side panel) so TECHNICALLY it'll be visible from the top left, the bottom left, and back left

and to Rick... we normally DO flush trim an edge, but it's the exact oppose. the INSIDE panel is raised... not the outside edges so there's no way to flush trim .. basically instead of the edges giving a little lip to flush trim the panel is raised enough to have the edges be SUNK down a little...


and rounding over would solve it a bit, but we have screws wayyyyyyyyyy too close to the edge so rounding over is not an option. (can't see from the picture but about 8 screws on all sides near that edge and the roundover would hit them.)
Edited by wormraper - 9/26/13 at 12:42pm
post #193 of 264
If you don’t go with another suggestion one I would have as a possible option is to cut like a 1/4” strip and glue. After that has dried good, then take your trim bit to it. It would require extra work in getting it ready for finish, but it might just do the trick?? If any of the 1/4 crumbles as you do the trim bit, fix that with the bondo. You might want to do the 1/4" strip with another material also thinking about it??
post #194 of 264
you could ask bill fitzmaurice, but i'm pretty sure that he has been using pl/bondo/black paint/duratex for his suggestion for cabs for countless years with thousands in the field.
post #195 of 264
duratex "tips & tricks" from...the maker of duratex: http://www.acrytech.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Applying-DuraTex.pdf
post #196 of 264
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

duratex "tips & tricks" from...the maker of duratex: http://www.acrytech.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Applying-DuraTex.pdf

nice so it DOES stick to bondo. ok, I just got done filling in a ll the screw holes just a few minutes ago. I'll use it to float those edges up to the same level and "soften" the edges with a piece of sand paper. as easy as a roundover is. I don't wanna take all the screws out of the side panels ..fill with bondo and THEN roundover... easier to just float and soften the corners before duratex.
post #197 of 264
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

If you don’t go with another suggestion one I would have as a possible option is to cut like a 1/4” strip and glue. After that has dried good, then take your trim bit to it. It would require extra work in getting it ready for finish, but it might just do the trick?? If any of the 1/4 crumbles as you do the trim bit, fix that with the bondo. You might want to do the 1/4" strip with another material also thinking about it??


I've done this w/ a 3/4" scrap when I came up about 3/8 short on one panel. It works fine. The glue is as strong/stronger than the MDF.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

nice so it DOES stick to bondo. ok, I just got done filling in a ll the screw holes just a few minutes ago. I'll use it to float those edges up to the same level and "soften" the edges with a piece of sand paper. as easy as a roundover is. I don't wanna take all the screws out of the side panels ..fill with bondo and THEN roundover... easier to just float and soften the corners before duratex.

I use lots-o-bondo...you can see some of it on the edges here. I skim coat and then hit it with an angle grinder & flap disk.

No problem with duratex.


I countersink far enough that the 1/2" round-over bit will clear the screws. Sandpaper works fine at this point though. cool.gif
Edited by nograveconcern - 9/26/13 at 6:28pm
post #198 of 264
Thread Starter 
yeah, I used a straight edge board and floated the gap with bondo. worked like a charm, letting it cure over night then sanding it down. already filled in 90 % of the screw holes with the bondo. getting to that point that I can probably duratex tomorrow evening. at this point it feels like the project is never gonna end frown.gif


only annoying thing is that I won't be able to break in the drivers outside of the box since I live in an open door ranch house (south west people will know what I mean) with 6 cats in the household... would rather the cats NOT get into and damage the woofer overnight while I'm breaking it in. well I've heard that the SI drivers are pretty compliant so shouldn't be that long to break them in...
Edited by wormraper - 9/26/13 at 10:21pm
post #199 of 264
Thread Starter 
uggggh, I hate myself sometimes lol. I forgot to pre-drill the driver mounting screw holes and put in wood inserts on the back of the baffle and now the baffle is firmly glued into the box...both boxes actually. guess the only thing I can do is glue a small block of a 1x3 under the area where the screws will go in so it has something besides mdf to bite into... sheesh.
post #200 of 264
^^^ You’re good, could be a lot worse. I know the feeling though. Some would rather go that route anyway, so no harm done.
post #201 of 264
I am looking forward to seeing your finished sub!
post #202 of 264
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

and rounding over would solve it a bit, but we have screws wayyyyyyyyyy too close to the edge

I remove the screws and fill
post #203 of 264
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

I am looking forward to seeing your finished sub!

it'll probably be up and running by the end of the weekend
post #204 of 264
Thread Starter 
Quick question. Can I cover the slot port with my grill cloth from PE? Was thinking of making a grill that covers the ENTIRE front

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2
post #205 of 264
i would not do that.

you will be blasting the frequencies around the tuning frequency for sure and air velocity even with a largish port can still be quite significant. you'll see what i mean once you start blasting away. :-)
post #206 of 264
Thread Starter 
Lol. Thanks that's why I asked. I'll just make one that comes down toooo the port then. ( my grill won't be recessed
post #207 of 264
Thread Starter 
here's work on the second box. got everything pretty much finished .. bondoed in most of the holes and put the final panel on. made a SLIGHT error with the widgh of it and it had to be hammered in but ah well.

here's a pic of the first sub with the first coat of duratex on them









soooooooo tired lol, hopefully done with the boxes tomorrow
post #208 of 264
the marty subs are manifesting!

and check out that bracing marty...a perfect example of something that doesn't have to be perfect to be perfect. :-)
post #209 of 264
Thread Starter 
yes they most certainly are.. been fun and a learning experience in the same mouthful biggrin.gif...

the bracing is about as simple as you can get really. anyone can do it




ONE last thing.. JUST to make sure I remember it right... to wire the SI 18 D2's to run a 4 ohm load to each channel of the amp


wire the positive of voice coil 1 to neg of voice coil 2.

THEN

use the other neg from voice coil 1 and the positive of voice coil 2 to wire the driver to the speakon connector right?

basically this

post #210 of 264
that's right.
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