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BIC America V1020 doesn't work!

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
Hi Everyone,

I’m a rookie to the home theater hobby and have recently purchased a new system based on some great reviews from this site. My system consists of a Marantz NR1603 Receiver, Energy Take 5.0 Speakers, and a BIC America V1020 Sub. After hooking everything up and running Audyssey, the BIC doesn't work and, for the life or me, I can’t figure out why. The Marantz says there is no sub-woofer detected.

I have it hooked up with an RCA cable from the pre-amp out on the receiver to the “sub-in” on the back of the BIC. It is powered on, the cross-over is set at 120, the volume is at 50%, phase is set at “0”, and the receiver type is set at “Digital”. I have checked the connection numerous times and have even looked at the fuse. Everything is in order.

To make things more complicated, I hooked up my old sub from a cheap all-in-one system and it works fine. Audyssey recognized it and calibrated it accordingly, so I know it’s not the Marantz or the cable.

Before I go through the hassle of returning this thing, I would greatly appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks in advance!

-Andrew
post #2 of 6
You have all the settings right, so I'd call BIC. I will say this. When I first turned on my BIC it didn't appear to be working because I really couldn't hear any bass coming from it. I placed my hand underneath against the woofer and it was indeed moving. It took a good day for me to start hearing it and a good week before it was doing what it was suppose to be doing and a good month to reach the depth I was expecting. I had read from others that the butyl rubber surrounds do take some time before limbering up. If your woofer isn't moving then there is a problem with the BASH amp.
post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 
Thanks for your input. I emailed them and this what their Tech Support gentleman wrote (They've been very responsive). Hopefully it works! I'll post an update later with the outcome.

"OK.

First, remove the power cable from the subwoofer receptacle. Take out the screws around the perimeter of the back-panel control plate (and ONLY those screws.) Lift the control plate partially out of the cabinet, far enough to examine the leads going from the amplifier (built on the back of the plate) to the woofer input terminals. The leads simply clip onto their destination terminals. If one is disconnected, push the clip firmly onto the empty terminal. You have solved the problem.

If the clip leads are all connected properly, remove the clips from the woofer input terminals by wiggling them off. If that proves to be too difficult, leave them connected to the woofer terminals and remove them from the amplifier output terminals. Then lay the amplifier/plate assembly carefully aside.

Bring the sub cabinet with its woofer close to one of the main speakers. Turn on the system and play something at a moderate level. Remove the speaker cable from one of the main speakers, being careful to not let the two bare wire ends in the cable touch together. Reach inside the sub cabinet with the two wire ends and hold the ends firmly to the woofer input terminals. If the woofer plays, even though a bit muffled, the woofer is OK, and we must conclude that despite original indications that the amplifier is not working. If it does not play, I can send you a replacement woofer (at no charge, of course), and you can install it after removing the original by taking out the screws just inside the outer part of its frame.

Please let me know the results if you decide to tackle this. "
post #4 of 6
Glad to see that BIC was prompt. Hopefully, it's only a loose connection. Let me know how everything turns out.
post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 
Turns out is was just a loose connection on the speaker. Easy fix and it sounds great!
post #6 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by atilley View Post

Turns out is was just a loose connection on the speaker. Easy fix and it sounds great!

I'm happy to hear that! Wish you the best on your new toy.
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