or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Large Ported Dayton HO18's
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Large Ported Dayton HO18's - Page 9

post #241 of 999
"First tuning report for MartySub Variant with port dimensions of" 2" x 7" x 36" x 3 ports

14-15 Hz with a bare box interior - 15.9 Hz pedicted by WinISD."

thanks!

that comes in at approximately a 15% adjustment factor +/- right?

.................


looks rock solid chaluga. that jig will make for easy grills too.
post #242 of 999
LTD, I get more like a 6-12% decrease in tune vs. predicted for my box volume and port sizes (11.36 ft^3 and 3x 2"x7"x36")...

((15.9-15)/15.9)x100=6%
((15.9-14)/15.9)x100=12%

my amp only lasted ~10 minutes at 17.5 volts.....tongue.gif
post #243 of 999
Wow, these renderings look fantastic!!! cool.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post


5) Pin nail vertical pieces in place just to get in right spot before screwing down. (10 min)



I would add glue at this step to prevent the pieces from buzzing where they connect.

Mike
post #244 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post

Wow, these renderings look fantastic!!! cool.gif
I would add glue at this step to prevent the pieces from buzzing where they connect.

Mike

yep, and I will give everything a layer of pl adhesive as well. I like to overbuld my own stuff. I hated it when I worked for others and they always wanted me to cut corners to increase profit eek.gif
post #245 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post

LTD, I get more like a 6-12% decrease in tune vs. predicted for my box volume and port sizes (11.36 ft^3 and 3x 2"x7"x36")...

((15.9-15)/15.9)x100=6%
((15.9-14)/15.9)x100=12%

my amp only lasted ~10 minutes at 17.5 volts.....tongue.gif

Can you explain the 6-12% stuff in more detail. I am new to tuning and don't know what that means confused.gif
post #246 of 999
very roughly, what we are finding is that if you use winisd to calculate a port length for a given box at a given tuning and it comes out to say 40". then with a slot loaded port subtract off about 15%-20% +/- of that amount for the actual build or the tuning will come in a little low. so in this hypothetical, the actual port would be built to be about 80% or so of 40" which is around 32". not a great big deal. more of a refinement type thing.
post #247 of 999
"LTD, I get more like a 6-12%"

roger.
post #248 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

very roughly, what we are finding is that if you use winisd to calculate a port length for a given box at a given tuning and it comes out to say 40". then with a slot loaded port subtract off about 15%-20% +/- of that amount for the actual build or the tuning will come in a little low. so in this hypothetical, the actual port would be built to be about 80% or so of 40" which is around 32". not a great big deal. more of a refinement type thing.

Ok ... if you tune one box at 20 hz and another box at 15 hz for the same subwoofer does it make any changes to overall performance other then the ability to go 5 hz lower ? Does going lower tax the sub to perform at say 30 hz ?
post #249 of 999
yes. you are on the right track. the lower the tuning the more excursion the driver will have above the tuning frequency.

for big low tuned subs the risk of damage is often not below the tuning frequency as much as it is above it.

a 17hz sub will have max excursion at around 24-25hz or so, so that is one thing most folks look at when figuring how much power a sub can handle before pushing the driver too far into the red zone.
post #250 of 999
Decent progress this weekend:

1. Tested the tuning, as noted above
2. Painted the interior - eliminates any MDF or wood smells
3. Cut and glued memory foam throughout interior except in immediate vicinity of the port entrance
4. Crawled completely inside to mark the last panel for foam prior to closeout
5. Closed out the box using plenty of PL3X
6. Watched the glue dry.....while I made a new combo storage box / rolling platform to mount my table saw

Mike biggrin.gif
post #251 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post

Decent progress this weekend:1. Tested the tuning, as noted above2. Painted the interior - eliminates any MDF or wood smells3. Cut and glued memory foam throughout interior except in immediate vicinity of the port entrance4. Crawled completely inside to mark the last panel for foam prior to closeout5. Closed out the box using plenty of PL3X6. Watched the glue dry.....while I made a new combo storage box / rolling platform to mount my table sawMike :D


Need some pics smile.gif
U fit inside ?
post #252 of 999
Gotta wait till the PL sets up... tongue.gif

I have ~200# sitting on top of the last panel and the opening is facing away from all my lights right now. If I rotate the speaker towards the light (assuming I could, which is not a safe bet) my work table sags so bad I'm afraid it might collapse. eek.gif
post #253 of 999
very nice Mike!!!, I'm right behind you. I got everything in but the braces and top panel today on both boxes.. just gotta put in the braces and drop the top panel on and then it's all mounting and installing the speakon connections (plus of course all the finishing work like duratex and wood filler and sanding)
post #254 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

very nice Mike!!!, I'm right behind you. I got everything in but the braces and top panel today on both boxes.. just gotta put in the braces and drop the top panel on and then it's all mounting and installing the speakon connections (plus of course all the finishing work like duratex and wood filler and sanding)

Can't wait to hear your listening impressions for both of you. After you had a good listen please give detailed observations. Not.just it sounds great. Lucky.pioneers !
post #255 of 999
will try to do our best chalugadp

also, does anyone know where to get magnets to attach the speaker grill covers locally? an art supply shop or something?
post #256 of 999
Well, based on my tuning tests, I can tell you that these things like lots of power! My old Hafler DH-500 just met it's match...

Now, granted, that was outdoors, 3' off the ground, with a temporary seal. But still, it tripped my thermal protection and I doubt I saw more than 15mm peak-to-peak excursion; below tune!

Yep, Worm. I'll be starting the body work tomorrow. Flush trim the edges. round-over the corners, Bondo all the brad holes, sand and repeat, sand and repeat, then Duratex - the invisibility cloak for all woodworking sins. tongue.gif

Chalugadp, you have no excuses! You do not get to use Duratex!! rolleyes.gif
Oh and you asked: Do I fit inside?? Yessirr!!! I put the top panel on then crawled inside through the front baffle. While laying on my back, with just my lower legs hanging out, I marked where all the bracing contacted the top panel so I could glue the foam to the top panel before placing it on the enclosure where I had previously loaded on the PL. The memory foam really eliminates a lot of energy from the upper octaves! wink.gif

Mike
post #257 of 999
lol, yeah, these subs can take a lot... that's why we're using pro amps with 800-1000 watts of power each driver biggrin.gif
post #258 of 999
are you sure winisd was giving you 15.9 hz tuning? winisd is giving me 17 hz for an 11.4 cu foot box with a 36 inch long slot port that we did?

EDIT: sorry I saw you did 2 inch high slot ports instead of 2.5 inch slot ports using the 1x3's that marty and I were doing.
post #259 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post

Well, based on my tuning tests, I can tell you that these things like lots of power! My old Hafler DH-500 just met it's match...

Now, granted, that was outdoors, 3' off the ground, with a temporary seal. But still, it tripped my thermal protection and I doubt I saw more than 15mm peak-to-peak excursion; below tune!

Yep, Worm. I'll be starting the body work tomorrow. Flush trim the edges. round-over the corners, Bondo all the brad holes, sand and repeat, sand and repeat, then Duratex - the invisibility cloak for all woodworking sins. tongue.gif

Chalugadp, you have no excuses! You do not get to use Duratex!! rolleyes.gif
Oh and you asked: Do I fit inside?? Yessirr!!! I put the top panel on then crawled inside through the front baffle. While laying on my back, with just my lower legs hanging out, I marked where all the bracing contacted the top panel so I could glue the foam to the top panel before placing it on the enclosure where I had previously loaded on the PL. The memory foam really eliminates a lot of energy from the upper octaves! wink.gif

Mike

I'm going to put a fancy inlay in the top of my tabletop so I have my work cut out !
post #260 of 999
Thread Starter 
Update as of Monday the 23rd of September.

I am still waiting on Sears to fix my router. They said it should be done on Wednesday or Thursday. After I get my router back I will finish the baffles and install them with the tops as well. Oh crap, I just forgot to order the Jasper circle jig today. frown.gif Looks like I will have to order that tomorrow, and possibly pay for 2nd day air to get it in time to have these finished by Friday. I absolutely can not wait to get these done!

I did receive my Speakon 4-pole connecters that I have to buy some wire and terminate the ends. I also received the speakon terminals that go on the actual sub itself. Can anyone tell me how to properly wire the driver to the speakon terminals? Also, how do I make the wires with the speakon connections on each end? I have the 4 pole connections, but I have no idea how to wire the cables onto them?
post #261 of 999
Hey Marty,

The 4-pole Speakon connectors have a 1+/1- pair and a 2+/2- pair of connectors. Physically, the connectors all look the same, but if you look closely with a magnifying glass, you should be able to see the labels with 1+ 1- 2+ 2-. Also, some of the packaging will have a connector diagram showing the configuration of the connectors. My limited experience is with the Neutrik line of connectors. For the receptacle I posted in post #209 above the inside connection to the speaker takes either a female spade lug (it looks smaller than 1/4"), or it can be soldered, which is what I do. Last time I checked, the convention is that 1+ is the positive lead and should go from the receptacle to the red terminal on your woofer. 1- is the negative lead and should connect to the black terminal on your woofer.

Wiring the jacks on the ends of your speaker cables would work the same way. Neutrik has these cool little solderless connectors for the wire on the back of the jack. Just strip off a 1/2" of insulation, unscrew the connector screw most of the way out(~ 4-6 turns), push the wire into the well next to the screw and then tighten the screw until snug. Check the wire by tugging on it to make sure it does not pull out. Assuming a red and black twisted pair of wires in your speaker cable, the connections at both ends are as described above: red to the 1+ connector and black to the 1- connector.

In all cases, leave the 2+ and 2- connection disconnected.





These were stripped too long!










Hope this helps. wink.gif

Mike

Edit - Pictures added
Edited by mhutchins - 9/23/13 at 9:11pm
post #262 of 999
OK, now for some progress pics!

Chalugadp, you asked for a picture of the closeout, so here you go:




Today I used the flush trim bit and then the roundover bit:




Then I covered my enclosure in Bondo and sanded almost all of it off:


I'm trying to keep as much dust as possible from getting inside. That's why I have the cardboard cover and rags stuffed in the ports. I still need to trim the grille, install the standoffs and magnets, paint the grille and cover it with left over black milliskin spandex.


Anybody have any suggestions on a good sanding sealer for MDF. The edge grain is pretty coarse and the panels have been sanded through the outer compact layer...
I know I can put Duratex over the bare MDF, but I'm not sure that is how I want to finish the ports and front speaker baffle. I'm thinking a satin black for these, but I need to do something about that MDF end "grain"... Also, I was hoping to conserve a little on the Duratex by not allowing the MDF to soak up all the Duratex. But, maybe that is just a pipe dream, I don't know.

Comments and recommendations are welcomed! smile.gif


Mike
post #263 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post

OK, now for some progress pics!

Chalugadp, you asked for a picture of the closeout, so here you go:




Today I used the flush trim bit and then the roundover bit:




Then I covered my enclosure in Bondo and sanded almost all of it off:


I'm trying to keep as much dust as possible from getting inside. That's why I have the cardboard cover and rags stuffed in the ports. I still need to trim the grille, install the standoffs and magnets, paint the grille and cover it with left over black milliskin spandex.


Anybody have any suggestions on a good sanding sealer for MDF. The edge grain is pretty coarse and the panels have been sanded through the outer compact layer...
I know I can put Duratex over the bare MDF, but I'm not sure that is how I want to finish the ports and front speaker baffle. I'm thinking a satin black for these, but I need to do something about that MDF end "grain"... Also, I was hoping to conserve a little on the Duratex by not allowing the MDF to soak up all the Duratex. But, maybe that is just a pipe dream, I don't know.

Comments and recommendations are welcomed! smile.gif


Mike
Looks awesome !!!
To deal with endgrain wipe some.water on it and that will raise the grain . Then sand it off with 150 grit..
Then repeat with 300-400 and 90% of endgrain will be gone. Don't need to wait between coats. Total time 10 mins
post #264 of 999
nice job on the bracing man. makes mine look pedestrian biggrin.gif (at least in assembly)

surprised you went with that much damping material since I was told to only put a bit in the back since it reduces the efficiency of the bass reflex a bit too much if you dampen the whole box...
post #265 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

nice job on the bracing man. makes mine look pedestrian biggrin.gif (at least in assembly)

surprised you went with that much damping material since I was told to only put a bit in the back since it reduces the efficiency of the bass reflex a bit too much if you dampen the whole box...
Worm can you.take.a.picture of the inside of your marty just before you install the subwoofer so I can see what the final inside is supposed to look like ?
post #266 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Worm can you.take.a.picture of the inside of your marty just before you install the subwoofer so I can see what the final inside is supposed to look like ?

yeah, no problem. my buddies gf sent me the pics she took tonight. it's almost done. I'll see if I can find a way to get them off my phone
post #267 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

To deal with endgrain wipe some.water on it and that will raise the grain . Then sand it off with 150 grit..
Then repeat with 300-400 and 90% of endgrain will be gone. Don't need to wait between coats. Total time 10 mins

Thanks, chaluga. I'll give that a try tomorrow!


Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

surprised you went with that much damping material since I was told to only put a bit in the back since it reduces the efficiency of the bass reflex a bit too much if you dampen the whole box...

Ignorance is bliss...tongue.gif

Worm, can you point me to a discussion or reference where this is covered. I don't doubt your accuracy, I just want to learn more about stuffing, lining, etc.

Thanks, guys!
Mike
post #268 of 999
that's insane man! looks like a freak'n museum in there. the marty was supposed to be a simple build that anybody could do and you go and pull that!?! :-)~

for you finish gurus: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?23810-Dayton-RS-sub-project-Assault-on-SQ

i'd never put water on mdf, but that is just me.
post #269 of 999
post #270 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

link on stuffing: http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=79

and the other one: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/vent_tuning.htm

yeah, I've read those before, and it seems that while it lowers the tune a bit it still lowers efficiency a bit in a ported system even though it can tame some resonances. I've jsut beein hearing from different folks that it really lowers efficiency and bass reflux to the point of being really annoying unless I'm REALLY missing something
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Speakers and Subs
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Large Ported Dayton HO18's