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Large Ported Dayton HO18's - Page 15

post #421 of 999
Thread Starter 
If I were to add some stuffing to the enclosure, how would that affect the sound?

Also, what would I gain in terms of performance by adding an EQ devise such as a MiniDsp 2 by 4 with advanced plug in? I plan to pay for some measurement gear on Friday, (pay day!), and I could also probably swing for a MiniDsp too. Just not sure if that would make a very noticeable difference as I have always considered EQ' ing devices to be more beneficial with sealed subs instead of ported.
post #422 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

If I were to add some stuffing to the enclosure, how would that affect the sound?

Also, what would I gain in terms of performance by adding an EQ devise such as a MiniDsp 2 by 4 with advanced plug in? I plan to pay for some measurement gear on Friday, (pay day!), and I could also probably swing for a MiniDsp too. Just not sure if that would make a very noticeable difference as I have always considered EQ' ing devices to be more beneficial with sealed subs instead of ported.

what are you using for your HPF then if you don't have a minidsp?
post #423 of 999
Dsp is/can be just as important with vented as it is with sealed. With having a plot of your room response it would give us a very good idea of what you’re looking at. Adding stuffing won’t help out at all, I would definitely advise against it. Have you had other subs in the same location in the past?
post #424 of 999
Thread Starter 
Yes, I had my MFW-15 in the same location. I do not currently have a high pass filter, but I am being careful not to go too high on the SPL. I will be ordering a MiniDsp soon, and will be ordering the measurement gear from another mender here on Friday.
post #425 of 999
what amp are you running marty?
post #426 of 999
So I got my inuke 3000dsp today and went down to ncix computer store and bought noctua case fan to replace stock fan. Popped of case of inuke and fan connection is two prong


The noctua fan has four . Took back noctua fan to store and dude said all case fans have four prongs.

Do I splice into existing fan using two of the wires ?


When I looked on inuke 3000 threads they all seemed. Dead for awhile so I posted here.
post #427 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

Yes, I had my MFW-15 in the same location. I do not currently have a high pass filter, but I am being careful not to go too high on the SPL. I will be ordering a MiniDsp soon, and will be ordering the measurement gear from another mender here on Friday.

This might sound kind of odd and LTD might not agree with me, but it will take quite a bit to over drive your driver with a 18” sub as stout as yours. It will depend on the size room you’re in of course and MV, but you will/should be fine to push it a little even at spirited levels. That being that I know your carful, so not to worry. Anyway that's great you're getting your gear in Friday. inuke> I dunno?
post #428 of 999
Thread Starter 
I have my single Marty Sub powered by an iNuke 3000, (non-dsp version). I am not even sure if I have it setup correctly. I have the positive wire on the drive connected to 2+ on the speakon and the negative wire connected to the 2- spot on the speakon. My speakon connectors only have 2+ and 2- nothing else..heck, I may have even wired the positive and negative to the wrong spot. It's so hard to tell which wire goes where on these speakon connectors. Speaking of which....

These speakon connectors are the devil! I absolutely hate these things as I can not easily get the wired to stay down while I tighten the screws, and even when I do get them tightened, they come off with only a simple tug!
post #429 of 999
"This might sound kind of odd and LTD might not agree with me, but it will take quite a bit to over drive your driver with a 18” sub as stout as yours."

the stereo integrity drivers have a relatively compliant (soft) suspension. not typical car beaters at all. that can be a good thing, but you do have to take a little care. a full power hit under tuning and well...i wouldn't want to go there and really not with somebody else's gear.
post #430 of 999
"I have my single Marty Sub powered by an iNuke 3000, (non-dsp version). I am not even sure if I have it setup correctly. I have the positive wire on the drive connected to 2+ on the speakon and the negative wire connected to the 2- spot on the speakon. My speakon connectors only have 2+ and 2- nothing else..heck, I may have even wired the positive and negative to the wrong spot. It's so hard to tell which wire goes where on these speakon connectors. Speaking of which....
These speakon connectors are the devil! I absolutely hate these things as I can not easily get the wired to stay down while I tighten the screws, and even when I do get them tightened, they come off with only a simple tug!"

marty, bud, you seem to be having a heck of time with things lately!

here is the speakon wiring diagram for the nl4fc connector:



what gauge wire are you using?
post #431 of 999
I figured out the wiring . Of. Course it was the last possibility I tried . Black to black and yellow to red.
post #432 of 999
I almost fell out of my chair when I saw your avatar...LOLOL.
post #433 of 999
Quote:
a full power hit under tuning and well...i wouldn't want to go there and really not with somebody else's gear.

I hear yuh. I certainly didn't mean to imply a hit that hard biggrin.gif
post #434 of 999
So just checking the connections .
I wire from si18 to this nl4mpr
ysynype6.jpg
Do I wire four from the si to four on this nl4mpr ? Somewhere I remember that to get 1100 watts bridged from the inuke 3000 I had to do something .

Then the nl4fx as you showed above
duqehuby.jpg

And then I have 25' speakon cable from nl4fx to inuke.
post #435 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

If I were to add some stuffing to the enclosure, how would that affect the sound?

Also, what would I gain in terms of performance by adding an EQ devise such as a MiniDsp 2 by 4 with advanced plug in? I plan to pay for some measurement gear on Friday, (pay day!), and I could also probably swing for a MiniDsp too. Just not sure if that would make a very noticeable difference as I have always considered EQ' ing devices to be more beneficial with sealed subs instead of ported.



What are you guys talking about when you say mini dsp advanced plug in??? Do you mean balanced version?
post #436 of 999
Marty,

Check the Crossover switch on the back of your amp. If it is set to Split LF / HF, only Channel B will have any output below 100 Hz. Probably easiest for now to set the mode switch to stereo and the crossover switch to full range.

There should be a 1+ and 1- connection as well in your speakon connector. I would use those until you fully sort the various switch combos on the back of that iNuke.


I have Speakon wiring pictures here in post 261.


Mike
post #437 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by 316 View Post

What are you guys talking about when you say mini dsp advanced plug in??? Do you mean balanced version?

The miniDSP "PlugIn" is the software that runs on the miniDSP hardware and determines the features that you can access and program. The Balanced vs. Unbalanced versions refer to the miniDSP hardware, and primarily determines the input and output connection characteristics such as grounding and output voltage (0.9V for Unbalanced and 2V for the Balanced version).
post #438 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post

Marty,Check the Crossover switch on the back of your amp. If it is set to Split LF / HF, only Channel B will have any output below 100 Hz. Probably easiest for now to set the mode switch to stereo and the crossover switch to full range.There should be a 1+ and 1- connection as well in your speakon connector. I would use those until you fully sort the various switch combos on the back of that iNuke.I have Speakon wiring pictures here in [URL=http://www.avsforum.com/t/1489541/large-ported-dayton-ho18s/240#post_23765483]post 261[/URL].Mike

I have the 4d si18 and in a previous. Post it was said to wire in parallel for the one sub. So I run a wire from the red on speaker to other red , and black to black. Then one red and one black likeyour diagram ?
Edited by chalugadp - 10/9/13 at 9:20pm
post #439 of 999
Yes, what you just described is a parallel connection.

For series, the red from the input (1+) goes to the red of the first voice coil, then the black of the first voice coil is connected to the red of the 2nd voice coil. The black lead from the 2nd voice coil connects to the 1- of the input connector.
post #440 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post

Yes, what you just described is a parallel connection. For series, the red from the input (1+) goes to the red of the first voice coil, then the black of the first voice coil is connected to the red of the 2nd voice coil. The black lead from the 2nd voice coil connects to the 1- of the input connector.

Mike ,
Is the only reason the right angle speakon connection is used so cable doesn't break off at sub box ? Could I not just go from nl4mpr to my 25' speakon cable ? rolleyes.gif
post #441 of 999
if you are running the inuke 3000 in BRIDGED mode.



just follow the diagram. the red (+) goes to 1+ and the black (-) goes to 2+ on the connector that is inserted into the amplifier.

from there it doesn't matter what you hook to what so long as it ends up on your driver the right way. you don't even need any connectors from there and could just hook the cable to your subs.

normally the subwoofer would connect to the 1+ (+) and 1- (-) on the connector that goes on the subwoofer enclosure.

the standard wiring for NON BRIDGED MODE would be 1+ gets the red wire (+) and 1- gets the black wire (-) on both ends of the speaker cable.

so the only change from the standard wiring mode when going to bridged mode would be to switch the black wire (-) from 1- position to the 2+ position on the connector that plugs into the amplifier.
post #442 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

if you are running the inuke 3000 in [B][U]BRIDGED [/U][/B] mode.[IMG ALT=""]http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/290121/width/350/height/700[/IMG]just follow the diagram. the red (+) goes to 1+ and the black (-) goes to 2+ on the connector that is inserted into the amplifier.from there it doesn't matter what you hook to what so long as it ends up on your driver the right way. you don't even need any connectors from there and could just hook the cable to your subs.normally the subwoofer would connect to the 1+ (+) and 1- (-) on the connector that goes on the subwoofer enclosure.the standard wiring for NON BRIDGED MODE would be 1+ gets the red wire (+) and 1- gets the black wire (-) on both ends of the speaker cable.so the only change from the standard wiring mode when going to bridged mode would be to switch the black wire (-) from 1- position to the 2+ position on the connector that plugs into the amplifier.

Ok thats easy for the end that plugs into the inuke. Do I follow Mike's advice for the other end where I connect both red leads on sid4 driver and both black together. Then simply one red from driver to 1+ on speakon and black to 1- ?
Set inuke to bridged mode output A and plug in inputs , set hpf and I'm done ?
Edited by chalugadp - 10/10/13 at 12:00am
post #443 of 999
just to make sure that we are all on the same page.

you have the dual 4 ohm driver and the inuke 3000 amplifier.

if yes, and want to be safe, the best way would be to wire the voice coils in series on the driver for 8 ohms and then run the amp in bridged mode.

this will give you about 1100 real watts to play with and it will be distributed across both channels on the amp.






the other way to it would be to wire the voice coils in parallel, do not run in bridged mode, use only one channel of the inuke and have the same power. it's up to you.
Edited by LTD02 - 10/10/13 at 12:39am
post #444 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

just to make sure that we are all on the same page.you have the dual 4 ohm driver and the inuke 3000 amplifier.if yes, and want to be safe, the best way would be to wire the voice coils in [U]series [/U]on the driver for 8 ohms and then run the amp in bridged mode.this will give you about 1100 real watts to play with and it will be distributed across both channels on the amp.[IMG ALT=""]http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/290135/width/350/height/700[/IMG][IMG ALT=""]http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/290136/width/350/height/700[/IMG]
the other way to it would be to wire the voice coils in parallel, do not run in bridged mode, use only one channel of the inuke and have the same power. it's up to you.

This is exactly what I needed ! The diagram helps me , I'm a visual learner. I will run in series since I only have one marty and don't have room for another. I will be attaching the top today , adding some cedar decorative panelling to the outside , and hopefully putting on the first coat of finish. This weekend is Canadian Thanksgiving so off to my parents. Will finish Marty and bring home next week.

Thanks again Ltd ! smile.gif
post #445 of 999
that avatar is going to kill me. :-) mh's description of how to wire things is also right on. that is how you'd go about wiring the d4 for parallel connection and attaching to one amp channel and is how you will do it when you decide to get a second one. :-)~
post #446 of 999
Thread Starter 
Ok, I need some more help with these speakon connections. My speakon connectors that I got from Parts Express only have +2 and -2 indicated on the actual connector. I currently have the positive out of the sub connected to the +2 and the negative wire connected to the -2 on the speakon connector. Is this not right? Like I said, my speakon connector only has the +2 & -2 labeled on the plug itself.

Also, can any of you guys offer any advise on how to get the wire to hold in the small holes on the connectors? I loosen but not remove the small screws, insert the wire, then tighten the screws back down. It seems to be incredibly hard to not pull the wire out of the hole before getting it retigjtened.
post #447 of 999
Went to my local plywood store that has a nice selection of hardwoods as well. They had a nice bundle of aromatic red cedar that was 4" by 48" , perfect for Marty box. I bought it and attached today.
yrujy7u5.jpg

a5a8upem.jpg

Just busy at work so not much time to work on the box. My kids are big into sports so my time is limited to work on it.
post #448 of 999
"Ok, I need some more help with these speakon connections. My speakon connectors that I got from Parts Express only have +2 and -2 indicated on the actual connector. I currently have the positive out of the sub connected to the +2 and the negative wire connected to the -2 on the speakon connector. Is this not right? Like I said, my speakon connector only has the +2 & -2 labeled on the plug itself."

post up the link of the connector that you have marty and we can get it figured out.
post #449 of 999
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

"Ok, I need some more help with these speakon connections. My speakon connectors that I got from Parts Express only have +2 and -2 indicated on the actual connector. I currently have the positive out of the sub connected to the +2 and the negative wire connected to the -2 on the speakon connector. Is this not right? Like I said, my speakon connector only has the +2 & -2 labeled on the plug itself."

post up the link of the connector that you have marty and we can get it figured out.

I called Parts Express to order these speakon connectors, not sure if they even list these on their site.

My main problem is that this sub seems to have absolutely no output above 30hz or so. It just rumbles and shakes the house, absolutely zero mid-bass. I am so upset over this, as I just can not figure out what the problem is??

I reworked the speakon connection using the +1 to the positive and the -1 to the negative, and it still sounds the same, zero mid-bass. The UM-15's that I had in 3cuft sealed enclosures sounded infinitely better than this MartySub.
post #450 of 999
"...absolutely zero mid-bass. I am so upset over this, as I just can not figure out what the problem is?"

what equipment (amp/eq) do you have in between your avr and your subwoofer?
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