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Large Ported Dayton HO18's - Page 18

post #511 of 999
why aren't you just attaching the wire to the front?
post #512 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

why aren't you just attaching the wire to the front?

That's what I'm asking... is the front underneath my picture ? The spring hole will hold the wire but is the spring enough ?
post #513 of 999
this is also the exact same wiring. series.

but with the second set of terminal reversed on the sub. i'm not sure how they are arranged on the sub.

post #514 of 999
"... is the front underneath my picture"

yes.
post #515 of 999
"The spring hole will hold the wire but is the spring enough ?"

ymmv :-)
post #516 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

"The spring hole will hold the wire but is the spring enough ?"ymmv :-)
So solder in wire with the spring and my ymmv will be better biggrin.gif
post #517 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

So solder in wire with the spring and my ymmv will be better biggrin.gif

I wouldn't take a soldering iron near any sub driver. The springs will DEFINITELY hold almost any gauge wire pretty dang tight.
heck, I don't even like soldering wire to the back of my Speakon connectors in case I have to pull them off. Quick connects work fine if you crimp them tight.
post #518 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatsnasty View Post

[quote name="chalugadp" url="/t/1489541/large-ported-dayton-ho18s/510#post_23841311"]So solder in wire with the spring and my ymmv will be better :D[/quote]I wouldn't take a soldering iron near any sub driver. The springs will DEFINITELY hold almost any gauge wire pretty dang tight.heck, I don't even like soldering wire to the back of my Speakon connectors in case I have to pull them off. Quick connects work fine if you crimp them tight.

Ok , won't solder. I have never had a problem removing resistors when soldered. Just heat up the connection for two seconds and use a solder sucker. Thanks
post #519 of 999
sorry if that one came off the wrong way. the spring clips should be just fine.
post #520 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

I feel for you guys without a shop eek.gif. here's a pic of my main area


If you were in my area I would definitely let you drop in. I ordered the inuke 3000dsp from ebay for $279 new.
Wednesday I will cut out most of the pieces and assemble. I like the window braces that Mike used and I think I will use them.
I will take lots of pics.:

Chaluga, where in Canada are you???
post #521 of 999
Hi guys, I am going to be starting my build of a couple of these subs and I had a couple of questions. I have read in other posts that some people screw and glue and if I was to use screws what kind/size should I use?
I will be building them for the SI 18s and I would like to know what size hole I need to recess the driver and what size for the rear baffle? Also what type/size of router bits should I use for making the circles?
I have already made my circle jig out of 1/4" hardboard but I haven't made any pivot holes yet. My router accepts both 1/4 and 1/2" bits.
It's great reading all these threads on other peoples builds and the help you get on these forums.

Thanks
Steve
post #522 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Young View Post

Hi guys, I am going to be starting my build of a couple of these subs and I had a couple of questions. I have read in other posts that some people screw and glue and if I was to use screws what kind/size should I use?
I will be building them for the SI 18s and I would like to know what size hole I need to recess the driver and what size for the rear baffle? Also what type/size of router bits should I use for making the circles?
I have already made my circle jig out of 1/4" hardboard but I haven't made any pivot holes yet. My router accepts both 1/4 and 1/2" bits.
It's great reading all these threads on other peoples builds and the help you get on these forums.

Thanks
Steve

for screws, use spax star headed mdf screws... you can get em at any hardware store

use 1/4 in router bits if you can

for recessing the driver, use a 7/16ths depth on the router bit and do an 18.5 inch cut for the recessed circle and the internal hole should be 16.7 inches
post #523 of 999
For making the circles in the front and rear baffles what type of router bit should I be using? I have a 1/4" upspiral freud bit, but I have heard that you should use at least a 1/2" if not a 3/4" as to avoid breaking it? Do you use a different bit to make the recessed hole in the front baffle? I am new to the router therefore would appreciate any advice on using it. Do you cut the holes in each baffle separately or do you glue them together first? As for screws I have no idea where to get Spax screws in Canada, I guess Lee Valley used to carry them but don't anymore. They do have these that someone else mentioned.
post #524 of 999
Steve, either 1/4 or 1/2 will work, just take small depth slow cuts with each pass. For 3/4 in stock I would make at least three passes to make the full cut out. Do each panel separately. To make the outer baffle cut the recess for the speaker to the needed depth then using the same center hole cut the full cut out in that panel fir the basket size. You then cut the inner baffle with exact same setting as used on the outer baffle before you make any changes to the router set up.That way the same cuts in the two panels will be identical.
post #525 of 999
Hi guys,

I'm getting ready to build me some Marty subs and had an HPF/EQ/Amp selection question.

Would an inuke 3000DSP be able to handle the HPF and EQ or am I better off looking at a standalone amp and a minidsp?

The completion date is around Thanksgiving and I'll probably start ordering stuff in the next week or so.

Thanks a ton!
-Paul
post #526 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atredeis View Post

Hi guys,I'm getting ready to build me some Marty subs and had an HPF/EQ/Amp selection question.Would an inuke 3000DSP be able to handle the HPF and EQ or am I better off looking at a standalone amp and a minidsp?The completion date is around Thanksgiving and I'll probably start ordering stuff in the next week or so.Thanks a ton!-Paul[/quote

Inuke dsp will do just fine
post #527 of 999
"Would an inuke 3000DSP..."

yes. that's good for your dsp needs. powerful and easy to use.

just be sure to get drivers that match well to the amp so you get the most out of it.
post #528 of 999
Thanks guys.

I'm going to use the SI 18s. It seems the D2 or D4 will work although I'd prefer to run one per channel instead of bridging.

-Paul
post #529 of 999
the software can be downloaded for free in the download section on the amp page, btw.

sounds like a 3000dsp and a pair of d4's in parallel. two marty subs. good combination for sure.

be sure to post lots of pics...people love pics.
post #530 of 999
I changed out the fan from my inuke 3000dsp and installed the noctua . Man its whisper quiet. I changed the wiring in the speakon cable which was a snap. The marty is done but won't fit in my car. Have to wait till Monday to bring it home. Can't wait ..... smile.gif
post #531 of 999
fire it up during school hours and next semester woodshop will be oversubscribed...people just need a little inspiration sometimes.

:-)
post #532 of 999
Thread Starter 
Well, I think that I finally figured out my problem. Seems that I had the polarity reversed in my speakon cable. Fixed that, and now it has a lot more output and some better mid-bass kick, although, it still does not have that really deep, kick you in the chest mid-bass that I was hoping for. So with that being said, I am going to be picking up two more HO18's, for a total of 4, and I want to try them in some sealed enclosures.

How would four Dayton HO18's....each in 4cuft sealed enclosures, powered by 2 iNuke3000's, one iNuke3000 per pair with a MiniDsp 2 by 4 to provide boost down low, compare to 2 Marty Subs?
post #533 of 999
Marty - we could easily do a comparison via WinISD or similar for you, but I'm a believer in teaching a man to fish. biggrin.gif Check out the links for learning to set up WinISD in the DIY FAQ. It's rather easy and then you can compare anything you want!
post #534 of 999
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Marty - we could easily do a comparison via WinISD or similar for you, but I'm a believer in teaching a man to fish. biggrin.gif Check out the links for learning to set up WinISD in the DIY FAQ. It's rather easy and then you can compare anything you want!

I would model this in winIsd but unfortunately I do not have access to a laptop or desktop computer, just my iPhone 5. It will be Sunday before I am home to use my laptop to model this, and darn it I want the measurements now! LoL! J/k!
post #535 of 999
"Well, I think that I finally figured out my problem. Seems that I had the polarity reversed in my speakon cable."

hey...that's great news that you figured it out.

as for the comparison, i agree with the g-man that picking up a copy of winisd would be a great move so that you could model all the combinations that you'd like to.

that said, back in post #18, the master marty sub post, there is a comparison of the large ported marty with a sealed. those would pretty much be maximum limits no matter how you choose to eq it. doubling subs and power will give you +6db, so just add 6db to the sealed sub numbers for comparison.
post #536 of 999
Well, I can provide some bait. I've been contemplating this quite a bit with SI18's (which are similar). Below are two plots. The first is with a nominal 600W and the second is based upon not violating XMAX. All thee have HP filters to maximize their SPL.

Orange = 2 SI subs, sealed, 4 cubic feet per sub
Yellow = 1 SI sub, sealed, 4 cubic feet
Pink = Marty Sub (11 cubes, 14 Hz)

As you can see, the Marty Sub does very well against a single sealed in 4 cubes. By very well, I mean...eat's the sealed for lunch. But you have nearly 3x the volume! However, two subs in 2/3rds of the volume of the ported start to "have fun".




If you can imagine what 6 sealed would look like compared to two marty subs (e.g. nearly same volume)...well. Below is that @ max excursion (e.g. xmax). Way above rated (600W), just don't sit there.



This is the "beauty of sealed". For more $ in the same volume, you can hit like a MOFO and more than likely distort less.
post #537 of 999
this excursion...



gives this spl.



1100 watts marty vs. 4 cubic foot sealed.

a second would give +6db. so more than 2 sealed are required to equal a marty. it is about a 5:2 ratio around 20hz.

with your high pass filter you neutered marty. eek.gif

eq on the tuning frequency to bring it back up is what is missing.
post #538 of 999
Thread Starter 
The reason that I am asking about the Marty Sub versus 4cuft sealed HO18's is because we have just unexpectedly purchased a new home, (was a deal too good to pass up) and my soon to be wife wants no part of having duel Marty Subs in the living room.

So with that being said, I am considering purchasing an additional two HO18's, for a total of 4, and running each of them in a 4cuft sealed enclosures that could be made to look like end tables. We have two sofas that will go into the living room, so I could use a single enclosure at each end of each sofa.

I know that if I do this, I will need a MiniDsp to boost the bottom end. I have never used an EQ devise, but I did recently purchase some measurement equipment. What do you guys think about all of this?
post #539 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

The reason that I am asking about the Marty Sub versus 4cuft sealed HO18's is because we have just unexpectedly purchased a new home, (was a deal too good to pass up) and my soon to be wife wants no part of having duel Marty Subs in the living room.

So with that being said, I am considering purchasing an additional two HO18's, for a total of 4, and running each of them in a 4cuft sealed enclosures that could be made to look like end tables. We have two sofas that will go into the living room, so I could use a single enclosure at each end of each sofa.

I know that if I do this, I will need a MiniDsp to boost the bottom end. I have never used an EQ devise, but I did recently purchase some measurement equipment. What do you guys think about all of this?


pffft, just put your foot down biggrin.gif... I've had to do that enough times in my life with my HT gear
post #540 of 999
it will work fine marty. 4 sealed and well powered Dayton ho's is a good plan.

...

congratulations btw...soon to be married marty!
Edited by LTD02 - 10/19/13 at 2:45pm
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