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Large Ported Dayton HO18's - Page 34

post #991 of 999
Yes, 16-3/4" for the cutout. If you want to flush mount the woofer, that diameter would be 18-1/4".

I would match the port area to your first Marty Sub. for example, if your first Marty had a port area of 21" x 3" = 63 in^2.
Therefore, with the one-cut Marty using a port width of 22.5", the port height would be 63in^2 / 22.5" = 2.8" or ~2-3/4"

Then, with the port area matched, you can use the same port length as your first Marty and the tune will be the same! wink.gif

Good luck with the build!
Mike
post #992 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4seahorseman View Post

Full marty, one-cut stormtrooper version.


I agree with John. Your Marty Sub looks BAD ASS !!!!
post #993 of 999
Thanks guys, I don't have the woodworking skills of Donny, far from it, but I am happy with how they came out. I think it is cool to see all the variations people come up with. I am in the design profession and tend to lean toward a contemporary look.
post #994 of 999
As my students would say ,
You have mad skills bro:eek:
post #995 of 999
Thread Starter 
Finally got my 3rd MartySub finished, just need to install the driver. I went with a port that was 3" tall by 21" wide by 36" deep. I am hoping that tune works out nicely. The other two MartySubs that I built were with a 3" tall by 21" wide by 42" deep slot port. I plan to compare the two port options and see which I like best. The tops on my other two MartySubs are removable so I can open them up and trim or change the ports as necessary. I absolutely can not wait to get the driver installed and fire these babies up!

Since I will be powering these with a single iNuke3000 (non-DSP) per two MartySubs, one on each channel, how should the speakons be wired? Would it be: positive to +1 and negative to -1 on channel "A" then the same for channel "B"?

How should the switches on the back be set? Last question is what kind of screws do you guys like to use on these Dayton HO18's? I noticed that the holes on the driver are fairly large, so it will likely take a bigger screw, right?
post #996 of 999
1 of 2 UXL full size Marty's. I went with the 3" vent opening. When I look in the vent... Oh my god, it's full of bass!!! I planned on making a grill but that UXL is so impressive, I kinda hate to cover it. The lens distortion on my iPhone makes the vents appear larger and the box look out of square.




Edited by Monkey_Man - 4/9/14 at 12:49am
post #997 of 999
Marty , that is how my speakons are wired. After wandering the menards isles for way to long I ended up using this for mounting the drivers:

MM welcome to the family!
post #998 of 999
Thread Starter 
Ok, got the driver mounted to the front baffle & wired with some left over 12/2 I had from redoing the wiring in my kitchen. All that is left to do is attach the speakon terminal to the enclosure and install the top! I can't wait to get these babies fired up!

Quick question, the speakon plug that I had is already assembled/put together, and I can't seem to figure out how to un connect it so that I can install the wire into it. I tried to hold down the plastic gray colored thing and twist it but I was unable to get the damn thing apart! Any suggestions on how to get the speakon plug apart?
post #999 of 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey_Man View Post

1 of 2 UXL full size Marty's. I went with the 3" vent opening. When I look in the vent... Oh my god, it's full of bass!!! I planned on making a grill but that UXL is so impressive, I kinda hate to cover it. The lens distortion on my iPhone makes the vents appear larger and the box look out of square.



Looking good monkey man!

 

One word.....

 

SINISTER!  

 

: )

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