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Family Room Makeover/Gallery Wrap Screen

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 
Hello all. Long time lurker, first time thread poster.

I'm in the process of overhauling my family room home theater. This is a multipurpose space and directly adjoins the kitchen. While I'd love to find a space in the house that could be a bit more dedicated to the task, this is what I have to work with. It's obviously going to be highly compromised from the standpoint of ambient light but I'm hoping that with the right screen that I can dramatically improve perceived black levels during times when the new blackout curtains aren't fully drawn and all the lights are turned out.

I've decided to build mt screen using materials I have on hand. Since I do gallery wrapped canvas prints that means I'm going to try using art canvas designed for wide format printing. I know I can create a virtually perfect stretched canvas projection surface. The canvas is very, very high whitepoint ( >120 CIE) and basically primed to be finish sprayed with virtually any type of paint. It is also stable and easy to stretch using the appropriate stretcher bars. I have both on hand so it's seems like a no-brainer to experiment with.

Based on my research here, I'm leaning towards finishing the screen with SF v2.5 4.0. I've got the colorant and base components on order and I've built a scaled down 82" dia. screen prototype to test colorant choice and spray technique.

A few questions:

1.) Does anyone see any issues using an ultra white base to start with?
2.) Based on the photos & specs below, does SF v2.5 4.0 seem like a good choice or should I try pushing it with SF v2.5 4.5-5.0?

Any constructive advice would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Specs:
Projector: Optoma HD130Xe
Target screen size: 103-105" diagonal
Projector throw: 12'-2"

Typical daytime ambient environment with island lighting turned on. Lights on the left are a couple of pendants with 13W CF bulbs.


Typical daytime ambient environment.


Unfinished screen close up.


Gallery wrap back details.


Gallery wrap back corner.
post #2 of 4
Hi Travisbickle!

Welcome aboard ....it's great to have you getting started down the DIY Screen making road.

It's always great to see a long time Member post up a Thread for the first time, and have his first posted Thread be on DIY Screens!cool.gif

Let's everyone know where one's priorities should lie. Yessir!

Well, from reading about your prep work, you certainly have a class act going as far as the use of Fabric. Proper use of Stretcher Bars can get Canvass (or BOC) truly "Drum Head" Tight.
SBs were always preferred, but back in the day, the limitations in lengths available, and/or the cost of such left them underutilized.

Ok then...first off;

Pretty certain your using the Optoma HD131Xe (2500 Lumen - 18000:1 CR )...just slipped a digit in the act of posting enthusiastically. tongue.gif

Your selected Screen size (105" diagonal) is very doable. In fact what with the quality job done with the Gallery Stretch, your pretty much all set to go with a Zero Edge / Minimalist Edge design.

Also, the quality of the prepared Canvass surface owes naught to virtually any other substrate...texture-wise. This is not always the case with canvass, and as such, it too is underutilized as a substrate. Member Bud will be greatly pleased to see your poroject, I'm sure!

Only the decided "drop-of" around the edges of the screen surface will need to be dealt with when spraying, as a level edged run off around the perimeter will be required if the applied paint is to be evenly put down out to the very edges. Which you want no matter if Zero Edge or Overlaid Trim is chosen.

With your degree of ambient light, available Lumen output (...on Normal Lamp...) and optimized Throw, I'd absolutely suggest Silver Fire v.2.5 5.0 It won't be "pushing it", but rather assuring yourself of the best performance under demanding circumstances, while still maintaining spectacular Dark Room viewing.

However......(---there always seems to be a "however"---)

  • That there Gol' Durn White Ceiling will always be a factor. Yes, it's mitigated by the SF, and less an issue in Ambient light as shown, but in the dark, your room will light up like you turned on a big overhead light.
  • I'm personally glad your going to use a "Test Surface" to familiarize yourself with the correct Painting technique. Sometimes a person with your abilities might tend to "Go it alone" without interacting on/at all points.
  • Referencing the last point, please be certain to check back to get an opinion on the quality / correctness of the SF Mix. This might seem redundant, what with your being in the position your in, but caution will out
  • You do not mention the method / eqipment your planning to use to spray, and I'd like to hear from you on that..

Seeing that a Bright White, smooth base is the desired medium for Silver Fire, I'd say your all set in that regard.

As for getting a dramatic increase in perceived Black levels under "ALL" conditions, let me just say that 'ol Walter's black heart won't have nuthin' on the Blacks you'll see on your screen.
post #3 of 4
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Hi Travisbickle!

Welcome aboard ....it's great to have you getting started down the DIY Screen making road.

It's always great to see a long time Member post up a Thread for the first time, and have his first posted Thread be on DIY Screens!cool.gif

Let's everyone know where one's priorities should lie. Yessir!

MM, thanks for the warm welcome. And thank you for the detailed and informative feedback on my approach. I don't have a lot invested in this screen at this point but it is good to know that I'm not headed down the path of abject failure with regards to my expectations of how this screen will work out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Well, from reading about your prep work, you certainly have a class act going as far as the use of Fabric. Proper use of Stretcher Bars can get Canvass (or BOC) truly "Drum Head" Tight.
SBs were always preferred, but back in the day, the limitations in lengths available, and/or the cost of such left them underutilized.

I'm glad to hear this. I was worried that I might run into some issues with moire but so far the "raw" white canvas shows no moire patterns within the viewing cone. Only when you get out to around 45 degrees off axis does some slight pattern emerge. I'm hoping that by the time I build up the SF coating that it will mitigate most of the pattern. Regardless it's not a factor when sitting in the "daddy seat" or anywhere else on the couch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Ok then...first off;

Pretty certain your using the Optoma HD131Xe (2500 Lumen - 18000:1 CR )...just slipped a digit in the act of posting enthusiastically. tongue.gif

You are correct! I wish I could say I fat fingered the nomenclature but that darn zero is all the way on the other end of the keyboard.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Your selected Screen size (105" diagonal) is very doable. In fact what with the quality job done with the Gallery Stretch, your pretty much all set to go with a Zero Edge / Minimalist Edge design.

Also, the quality of the prepared Canvass surface owes naught to virtually any other substrate...texture-wise. This is not always the case with canvass, and as such, it too is underutilized as a substrate. Member Bud will be greatly pleased to see your poroject, I'm sure!

Only the decided "drop-of" around the edges of the screen surface will need to be dealt with when spraying, as a level edged run off around the perimeter will be required if the applied paint is to be evenly put down out to the very edges. Which you want no matter if Zero Edge or Overlaid Trim is chosen.

I'm fighting a little bit of a battle between screen greed and aesthetics. I'm think I'm going to be maxed out at 50" high (102" diagonal). I'd like to have the option of adding a black screen border with a zero edge style LED backlight. I've got some 1/2" X 2 1/4" stock on hand and I purchased some self adhesive black felt tape. I did a quick prototype to check the width and wrapped it with some of the felt tape. I also had some left over 5050SMD LED tape hanging around from my under cabinet lighting project. I think I like it.

I also might just wrap the sides with black felt and leave it at that.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

With your degree of ambient light, available Lumen output (...on Normal Lamp...) and optimized Throw, I'd absolutely suggest Silver Fire v.2.5 5.0 It won't be "pushing it", but rather assuring yourself of the best performance under demanding circumstances, while still maintaining spectacular Dark Room viewing.

However......(---there always seems to be a "however"---)
  • That there Gol' Durn White Ceiling will always be a factor. Yes, it's mitigated by the SF, and less an issue in Ambient light as shown, but in the dark, your room will light up like you turned on a big overhead light.
  • I'm personally glad your going to use a "Test Surface" to familiarize yourself with the correct Painting technique. Sometimes a person with your abilities might tend to "Go it alone" without interacting on/at all points.
  • Referencing the last point, please be certain to check back to get an opinion on the quality / correctness of the SF Mix. This might seem redundant, what with your being in the position your in, but caution will out
  • You do not mention the method / eqipment your planning to use to spray, and I'd like to hear from you on that..

1.) I've already noticed the issue with the ultra white ceiling. I'm going to be painting the room a neutral gray. I might see if I can get away with painting the first 24 inches of the ceiling with the same color.

2.) I like to try to work out the kinks with a proof of concept before committing myself. The second attempt almost always comes out better.

3.) Once I've got my Silver Fire ingredients I'll circle back around for some mixing advice. I've got plenty of canvas on hand to do some test sprays to get viscosity down.

4/) In terms of a sprayer, I've got a HVLP-type Wagner Control Spray Max on hand that I use to coat out printed fine art canvas with a polyurethane type coating. It's a got a fairly large 2.5mm spray tip but I've never had an issue with not being able to dial it in to deliver fine mist coats. I've also used it to spray Behr Ultra interior latex with pretty good success. I think as long as I can get the viscosity dialed in that I can get some smooth coats laid down. We'll see once I get the soup mixed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Seeing that a Bright White, smooth base is the desired medium for Silver Fire, I'd say your all set in that regard.

As for getting a dramatic increase in perceived Black levels under "ALL" conditions, let me just say that 'ol Walter's black heart won't have nuthin' on the Blacks you'll see on your screen.

Again, thanks for the advice and feedback. As soon as I've got my SF components I'm sure I'll have loads more questions.
post #4 of 4
Thread Starter 
I'm still waiting on my SF V2.5 ingredients. I've got to go to Lowes and pick up my Rustoleum Metallic. Here are some more shots of the typical night time ambient lighting conditions with typical kitchen task lighting illumination. The kitchen recessed can lights are 17W warm white LED (75W equiv.) on a dimmer set at ~75%.

The pendants over the island counter top are 2700 or 3000K 13W CF bulbs. The under cabinet lighting are "warm white" 5050 SMD LEDs. Overall the white balance from the lighting is a mixed bag. I might try to find some more neutral LED bulbs for the pendant lights but i need to find something that is low profile to avoid bulb glare. Perceptual black levels are better when the ambient light is close in color temperature t0 the screen lighting.

The wall paint patches are samples of Behrs "Creek Bed" gray.

The current screen shown is the prototype of the matte white inkjet canvas. It works quite well in low ambient light conditions.



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