Originally Posted by jpmst3
OK guys, sorry for the ignorant question before I pull the trigger on a 5030 and a screen...
If I opt for the 2.35:1 screen, will I be able to simply project the 16:9 movie with side bars without adjusting the lens, focus, etc?
Yes and no. You really don't want to use a 2:35:1 (Scope) screen with this PJ
. I mean, you can, but you probably won't be happy with it. You'll have to manually zoom it, with the wheel, for 2:35:1 content, and zoom it back for 1:85 and lower. You'll be doing this no matter what if you switch between types. The latter will leave you not with black bars on the side, but no image at all. You'll just see your screen. Most people who do this mask the sides with drapes, since that is easier than making a horizontal mask (though not by much).
Also the wheels for zoom and focus are right next to one another and touchy, meaning you will probably end up needing to refocus most of the time. You will quickly grow tired of this, I assure you.
Again, there really shouldn't be any confusion on this issue (CIH). If you want to do a CIH setup, you really need a different projector. In this price range ($2600/under) the only one I'd recommend is the Panasonic AE8000u. That one has powered zoom AND zoom memory, meaning you can zoom content in and out with the touch of a button. As I mentioned above, this will not "get rid" of the black bars but zoomed it will project them outside of the screen area where you won't see them.
The other way involves a PJ that can do anamorphic stretch and an external lens. The Panny offers stretch too, however you probably don't want to do this - lens start at 3k, the one most people buy is closer to 5k, and if we're being honest the Panny's onboard processor doesn't do that great a job with the stretch - people who are serious about CIH either buy an external processor ($$) or a much more expensive projector ($$$).
"Poor mans CIH" is the zoom method. If you really want to do that, get an AE9000u and deal with its limitations (I don't think it looks as good as the 5030ub). The lens route could easily cost you 3 to 4 times the cost of the PJ itself by the time you are done.If "black bars" really bother you then go to the link I posted above and learn how to make your own masks for about $30. You'll get virtually the same effect.
Originally Posted by Cyberathlete
Yea it was definitely 3D.
I don't remember if the bulb power was in Normal mode since I forget this projector actually has different settings for each viewing method. I will check it out during my lunch break (working from home today)
When I changed my input on the receiver (from blu-ray to PC), the projector changed settings as well (interesting). Seems like the projector can memorize different viewing settings for each receiver input.
Also can anyone tell me how to sync the Panasonic 3D glasses? The Samsung's sync'd automatically....the Panny's are fully charged and no clue as to what needs to be done. Thanks!
The 5030ub is indeed loud in 3D. Even in "eco" mode the image is much brighter (on purpose, as "dim" 3D looks terrible no matter what PJ is doing it) and the fan always kicks in. That's the price for better looking 3D.
In regular 2D use it shouldn't be - it all depends on what mode you have it in and how bright the image is. You can tone this down via calibration.
In the end though yes, it is loud for a PJ - 32db on full fan, if I recall. If it's right over your head you'll notice it. It's one of the few areas I'd like Epson to improve upon.
I can't personally speak to the Panasonic 3D glasses - I know they are RF, but there's no guarantee they will work with the Epson PJ's. Are you sure you're just not getting a "sync" message but the glasses do turn on when 3D content is displayed? Have you tried syncing them when 3D content is playing?