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Official Epson EH-TW 9200 5030UB Owners' Thread - Page 75

post #2221 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by domitron View Post

Well, there is an issue, but Epson pretty much spells out that the tightest focus shouldn't be expected until 30 minutes of warm up time. There is also an additional issue with the room I am in where the ambient temperature slowly rises the entire duration of the movie as much as 8F or 9F before stopping. Normally I would think that might be acceptable, but the fact that the unit features a "high altitude mode" means it is normally operating fairly close to the acceptable range of its heat dissipation capacity to cover all situations (That doesn't surprise me at all given the unit's fan is at the limit of noise acceptability in the brighter bulb modes if you consider the noise level of comparable projectors, and that means they probably were trying to down rev the fan as much as possible).

I basically need more testing before I resort to taking the unit back or assuming it isn't working right. For one I haven't focused and refocused at the 30 minute mark as the manual says I should. I'll try that from here out since the amount the focus is off is so small that it would be acceptable for 30 minutes if that's all we are talking about. Also if this is about the ambient temperature swing of my room close to the projector more, there are two possibilities: (a) I can move the air better around the unit either actively with very quiet fans directly above it or passively by trying another mounting technique, or (b) it might help to have the projector in high altitude mode since it'd increase it's ability to stay cool (unfortunately it might also increase the time it takes to warm up or the fan noise, though).

My unit is set up in a basement which tends to be cooler in the winter. I have noticed that the focus does shift slightly as the unit warms up. Plus, it isn't easy focusing it manually as I find I have to focus it, then move close to the screen to see if it is sharp, and then back to the projector to move the focus wheel slightly more, etc.
post #2222 of 3011
Try binoculars for focusing, so you can see the pixel structure easily while you're at the projector.
post #2223 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steven in Balto View Post

My unit is set up in a basement which tends to be cooler in the winter. I have noticed that the focus does shift slightly as the unit warms up. Plus, it isn't easy focusing it manually as I find I have to focus it, then move close to the screen to see if it is sharp, and then back to the projector to move the focus wheel slightly more, etc.

Today when I turned it on, it was perfectly in focus and stayed that way. The ambient temperature was only 2F less than when I turned it off this time, but I don't think that should matter (I explain below). This happened one other time before too, but I wasn't keeping track of how long after I turned the unit on I was adjusting to focus back then. It is possible all of this focus trouble was caused by me trying to readjust focus at different times, maybe as short as a few minutes after turning it on sometimes and much later after it warmed up other times.

In theory the unit should be adjusting the fan to some extent to reach and maintain the precise internal temperature (which is much higher than ambient) as required to optimize the bulb's life and spectrum (keep in mind that a minimal amount of air flow is needed even when you just turn on the unit to equalize the temperature across bulb and internal surfaces or else they would suffer undue thermal stresses). That means the fan should be able to speed up or slow down slightly to follow any varying ambient temperatures in the room pretty well as well as to overcome moderate back pressure from the HEPA as it fills over time (again if you meet the ambient operating temperature requirement). The specification probably says 30 minutes as a maximal warm up time for the focus because that is the worst case length of time for the internal to meet its goal temperature given the room is at the lower end of the operating temperature range (41F). Of course the warm up time would usually be a lot shorter since typically a room is held closer to 73F, not 41F.

So if my theory is right, I shouldn't see any further problems if I allow it to warm up at least 10 minutes or so before evaluating the focus. I'll let you know what I find.
post #2224 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by domitron View Post

Today when I turned it on, it was perfectly in focus and stayed that way. The ambient temperature was only 2F less than when I turned it off this time, but I don't think that should matter (I explain below). This happened one other time before too, but I wasn't keeping track of how long after I turned the unit on I was adjusting to focus back then. It is possible all of this focus trouble was caused by me trying to readjust focus at different times, maybe as short as a few minutes after turning it on sometimes and much later after it warmed up other times.

In theory the unit should be adjusting the fan to some extent to reach and maintain the precise internal temperature (which is much higher than ambient) as required to optimize the bulb's life and spectrum (keep in mind that a minimal amount of air flow is needed even when you just turn on the unit to equalize the temperature across bulb and internal surfaces or else they would suffer undue thermal stresses). That means the fan should be able to speed up or slow down slightly to follow any varying ambient temperatures in the room pretty well as well as to overcome moderate back pressure from the HEPA as it fills over time (again if you meet the ambient operating temperature requirement). The specification probably says 30 minutes as a maximal warm up time for the focus because that is the worst case length of time for the internal to meet its goal temperature given the room is at the lower end of the operating temperature range (41F). Of course the warm up time would usually be a lot shorter since typically a room is held closer to 73F, not 41F.

So if my theory is right, I shouldn't see any further problems if I allow it to warm up at least 10 minutes or so before evaluating the focus. I'll let you know what I find.

I just found out something else about the projector: I knew it turned off once the internal temperature gets ridiculously high (that's even probably the law), but also this projector has a warning lighting indication of it getting close to that level but before it switches off. Also since I had turned off the illumination lights and they are on the top of the unit anyway where I can't see them easily, I hadn't been paying attention to them even if they do turn back on for the warning. Apparently the power light flashes blue and a temperature yellow light flashes too to indicate the temperature is starting to get too high. I'll look for them since if the unit really was overheating a little and causing my focus issue, I'm betting those were flashing.

Another thing the spec says is that the back wall needs to be 7" from the vent, but the back wall doesn't have the vent pointed toward it (and the unit itself is over 7" deep). Maybe they the back wall is important with respect to the back of the unit too for some reason. I'll have to make sure I keep an eye on those temp lights.
post #2225 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by domitron View Post

I just found out something else about the projector: I knew it turned off once the internal temperature gets ridiculously high (that's even probably the law), but also this projector has a warning lighting indication of it getting close to that level but before it switches off. Also since I had turned off the illumination lights and they are on the top of the unit anyway where I can't see them easily, I hadn't been paying attention to them even if they do turn back on for the warning. Apparently the power light flashes blue and a temperature yellow light flashes too to indicate the temperature is starting to get too high. I'll look for them since if the unit really was overheating a little and causing my focus issue, I'm betting those were flashing.

Another thing the spec says is that the back wall needs to be 7" from the vent, but the back wall doesn't have the vent pointed toward it (and the unit itself is over 7" deep). Maybe they the back wall is important with respect to the back of the unit too for some reason. I'll have to make sure I keep an eye on those temp lights.

THERE IS NO WAY THIS UNIT SHOULD RUN HOT.

It is the Coolest PJ I have ever owned.

I have own PJs Since the Henry Kloss Days 1977
post #2226 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

Try binoculars for focusing, so you can see the pixel structure easily while you're at the projector.

Excellent suggestion; will try that out tonight. Thanks!
post #2227 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

Try binoculars for focusing, so you can see the pixel structure easily while you're at the projector.

Good point. Thanks!
post #2228 of 3011
How picky are these Epsons when it comes to syncing? I ask because I need to use hdmi over utp and I am worried I'll have sync issues (like Optoma did, Benq was fine)
post #2229 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by lapino View Post

How picky are these Epsons when it comes to syncing?

I have multiple HDMI sources going into a 5 x 1 HMDI switch, from the switch into an Oppo 103D for video processing, from the Oppo to both a receiver (for HT room audio only) and a 1 x 8 HDMI splitter, and finally from the splitter over a 20 ft. HDMI cable to the 5030UB. Both 2D and 3D work fine without sync issues.
post #2230 of 3011
Last night my PJ installation was done. What I noticed was the upper right and left side of picture is angled inward from mid point up.
I played with the buttons on the side of the PJ but couldn't get it straight.
Any suggestion is appreciated.
post #2231 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by usxplong View Post

... the upper right and left side of picture is angled inward from mid point up. I played with the buttons on the side of the PJ but couldn't get it straight.

Level the projector front to back and side to side, and ensure the front face of the projector is parallel to the screen surface - even if the PJ mounting has it offset to one side or the other of the screen centerline. Ensure the screen itself is flat and vertically plumb. Then center the projected image on the screen as needed, with the vertical and horizontal image adjusting wheels - do not use keystone adjustments.
Edited by WestCDA - 1/28/14 at 10:44am
post #2232 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCDA View Post

Level the projector front to back and side to side, and ensure the front face of the projector is parallel to the screen surface - even if the PJ mounting has it offset to one side or the other of the screen centerline. Ensure the screen itself is flat and vertically plumb. Then center the projected image on the screen as needed, with the vertical and horizontal image adjusting wheels - do not use keystone adjustments.

Thanks WestCDA. I appreciate it.
post #2233 of 3011
Guys, take a look at my thread here (wall of text, warning smile.gif )

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1514486/new-home-first-media-room-setup

I am getting the 5030. I am thinking of doing the 106 screen (it will be monoprice or elite due to budget).
My throw for a 106 is 14ft back.

can you guys tell me how low I need to hang the projector? Or can I just hang it with a normal mount.

Also, if you guys have any suggestions with regards to the monoprice/elite and whether it should be gray/white, with regards to the 5030, let me know smile.gif
post #2234 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post

... can you guys tell me how low I need to hang the projector? Or can I just hang it with a normal mount.

A normal mount is fine. The projector has a considerable amount of vertical shift available - more than enough for mounting on a 9 foot ceiling at that distance. Look up the 5030UB manual online, it has the specifics on how much shift is available in each direction.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post

Also, if you guys have any suggestions with regards to the monoprice/elite and whether it should be gray/white, with regards to the 5030, let me know smile.gif

If you will have good light control in your room go with white. The Epson is plenty bright for that size of screen, and has excellent contrast and black levels in a light controlled space.
post #2235 of 3011
I have a question regarding mounting. Now my room is about 16 feet long. I orriginally planed to shelf mount it off the back wall so I have run the an outlet for power to the back wall up high. Now I'm kind of wanting to celing mount it. So what I was thinking I could do is drop it from the celing near the back wall and still use my outlet off the back wall. I have not drywalled yet so i wanted to make sure I had enough wood up in that location to mount it nice and secure. My question is how far out from the wall would my mount have to be so the projector is near the back wall? I suppose I could just redo what I have done and run the outlet and network drops in the celing but that would be more work. Or should I just shelf mount it as originally planned?

thanks in advance.
post #2236 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCDA View Post

A normal mount is fine. The projector has a considerable amount of vertical shift available - more than enough for mounting on a 9 foot ceiling at that distance. Look up the 5030UB manual online, it has the specifics on how much shift is available in each direction.
If you will have good light control in your room go with white. The Epson is plenty bright for that size of screen, and has excellent contrast and black levels in a light controlled space.

Thanks!
Can I actually put that projector a few feet more forward? What I mean is, if projectorcalculator says the throw is 14ft, is there actually a range, could I mount it at around 12ft?
I ask cause the plugs in the ceiling have been prewired, and they are on a stud at about 12ft, I would like to hang it right below them.
post #2237 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post

Thanks!
Can I actually put that projector a few feet more forward? What I mean is, if projectorcalculator says the throw is 14ft, is there actually a range, could I mount it at around 12ft?
I ask cause the plugs in the ceiling have been prewired, and they are on a stud at about 12ft, I would like to hang it right below them.

The 5030UB has a long zoom. From your original post, you've already found the Projector Central screen calculator. To check the mounting range for the 5030UB with a 106"screen, just set the zoom slider box on 'throw range', and the diagonal screen dimension to 106". You'll see the range on the projector for that screen diagonal (at 16:9 aspect ratio) is from 10' 4" to 22' 2".
post #2238 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCDA View Post

The 5030UB has a long zoom. From your original post, you've already found the Projector Central screen calculator. To check the mounting range for the 5030UB with a 106"screen, just set the zoom slider box on 'throw range', and the diagonal screen dimension to 106". You'll see the range on the projector for that screen diagonal (at 16:9 aspect ratio) is from 10' 4" to 22' 2".

Ah, i gotcha now. Sorry, taking me a bit to soak all of this in. I appreciate the direction.

Last question, besides screen size and such, is there any other type of calibration that we do to set up the projector to our liking? This is my first one. Like a TV, you can set brightness, viewing mode, etc. If we do something like that with the 5030, is there a specific setup that everyone uses, or is it just depending on personal taste?
post #2239 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post

Ah, i gotcha now. Sorry, taking me a bit to soak all of this in. I appreciate the direction.

Last question, besides screen size and such, is there any other type of calibration that we do to set up the projector to our liking? This is my first one. Like a TV, you can set brightness, viewing mode, etc. If we do something like that with the 5030, is there a specific setup that everyone uses, or is it just depending on personal taste?

IN TWO months my PJ will be two years old. The adjustments ARE:

Focus and Zoom are the ONLY ADJUSTMENTS I made - ALL
adjustmets are STABLE for TWO Years
post #2240 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post

Ah, i gotcha now. Sorry, taking me a bit to soak all of this in. I appreciate the direction.

Last question, besides screen size and such, is there any other type of calibration that we do to set up the projector to our liking? This is my first one. Like a TV, you can set brightness, viewing mode, etc. If we do something like that with the 5030, is there a specific setup that everyone uses, or is it just depending on personal taste?

I do not have this model Epson but I do have the 6500ub. I throw it on a 106" Carada screen and it has been great for me for the past four years or so (with a couple bulb replacements of course). I set it up by eyeball first and although it was acceptable I knew I could do better. I went to the calibration thread and got all the numbers people were using and plugged them in to compare with mine. From this test it was obvious that everyone's screen is a little different, the throw distance is different, seating is different, eyes are different, etc., etc. I found there simply are too many differences to have a set up calibration that will please everyone, although it will help you get close. What will help you get closer, and what I also used to improve my picture, was a calibration disk called "WOW". I suggest you get it and I bet it will improve your picture over any set up guide or even your eyeball settings. I finally had a professional calibrator come in with his $40,000 cameras and equipment and do the job the way it should be done. Sure it was expensive but the difference was amazing. Save yourself a lot of work and grief by saving up a few hundred bucks and get a real calibration done - you will find it to be the best investment you make to your home theater.
post #2241 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post

Ah, i gotcha now. Sorry, taking me a bit to soak all of this in. I appreciate the direction.

Last question, besides screen size and such, is there any other type of calibration that we do to set up the projector to our liking? This is my first one. Like a TV, you can set brightness, viewing mode, etc. If we do something like that with the 5030, is there a specific setup that everyone uses, or is it just depending on personal taste?
Just like a TV, you can calibrate it or have it calibrated but you can also factor in personal preference too. You may want colors to look more vivid, even if it's not true to the calibrated standard colors. Right out of the box THX and Natural mode are pretty good.

With a TV, if you use someone elses calibration numbers they will probably be pretty darn close on your TV. With a projector that's not likely to happen unless you are *also* using the same screen, because the screen itself has an effect on how the displayed picture looks.
post #2242 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuke61 View Post

Just like a TV, you can calibrate it or have it calibrated but you can also factor in personal preference too. You may want colors to look more vivid, even if it's not true to the calibrated standard colors. Right out of the box THX and Natural mode are pretty good.

With a TV, if you use someone elses calibration numbers they will probably be pretty darn close on your TV. With a projector that's not likely to happen unless you are *also* using the same screen, because the screen itself has an effect on how the displayed picture looks.

perfect, thanks!
post #2243 of 3011
Just to have something to look at, do we have a calibration thread or is it just this thread?
I did a search for calibration thread 5030 and the first thing that pops up is this thread....
post #2244 of 3011

Guys - I have been through 2 5030UB projectors both bought from the same store. Both have the issue shown in the image below. Diagonal pinkish bars through the entire projected image. It is present on all inputs and persists even with a brand new HDMI cable. I have also projected on a bare wall to rule out the screen. Also I have ruled out the HDMI output on my Denon 4520 by hooking up a regular TV, it works great so it has to be the projector.

 

I opened a case with Epson 10 days ago and they have been back-ordered for the replacement unit ever since. I just called today and they are still unable to send a replacement.

 

Question - Has anyone seen this issue? I don't think it is normal because Epson is replacing the unit. The only thing is that both units that were purchased from Brandsmart did almost the same thing.

 

 

 

 

post #2245 of 3011
That looks like the moire effect caused by the texture of the surface you're projecting onto interacting with the visible pixel structure of the projector, though you've said you tried projecting onto a wall and noticed the same thing which should rule that out. Does changing the 'roll' angle of the projector make any difference in the pattern (by raising one side of the projector)?
post #2246 of 3011
Could be a power/ground/noise issue.
post #2247 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kneubuhler View Post

Guys - I have been through 2 5030UB projectors both bought from the same store. Both have the issue shown in the image below.

That alone would make me strongly suspect something outside of the projector - two of them doing exactly the same thing is quite a coincidence. No trace of that type of image distortion on mine, or from anyone else that I've seen posts from (other than screen material issues, and you said you've ruled that out).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kneubuhler View Post

It is present on all inputs and persists even with a brand new HDMI cable. I have also projected on a bare wall to rule out the screen. Also I have ruled out the HDMI output on my Denon 4520 by hooking up a regular TV, it works great so it has to be the projector.

Have you tried bypassing the Denon altogether, and connecting your HDMI source directly to the PJ? Do you have access to a second HDMI video source you can try as well (both directly connected, and connected through the Denon)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Harper View Post

Could be a power/ground/noise issue.

If you've definitely ruled out both the source and the screen, I'd be looking at electrical noise as well. Try plugging it in to a different circuit in your house, for a start.
Edited by WestCDA - 1/29/14 at 11:43am
post #2248 of 3011
How do I correct the convergence error? FYI, I have the red line appearing slightly above the white line.
I've went to the pattern settings, with color R, R/G/B, then adjust with the UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT buttons....but I don't see a difference. Am I pressing it wrong?
post #2249 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

How do I correct the convergence error? FYI, I have the red line appearing slightly above the white line.
I've went to the pattern settings, with color R, R/G/B, then adjust with the UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT buttons....but I don't see a difference. Am I pressing it wrong?

The adjustments are for very small parts of the screen. You see the grid, right? Basically the adjustment affects an intersection and about one square to the right and left, if that. Once you get done with the four corners, they let you go to any intersection and adjust. That's when you should go to the place you see the problem and start do adjustment through the closest intersections. You can save settings for every single intersection as far as I know. At any rate, if you are a normal person, you'll probably run out of steam after doing 20 or 30 intersections or so, and really not much more than that should be off.

I think the projector's convergence adjust flexibility is great, but I also think the interface is kind of annoying since for each new intersection some window pops up. They should have done it so there is an "adjust" and a "move" toggle via the center button, without the annoying pop up window.
post #2250 of 3011
Quote:
Originally Posted by domitron View Post

The adjustments are for very small parts of the screen. You see the grid, right? Basically the adjustment affects an intersection and about one square to the right and left, if that. Once you get done with the four corners, they let you go to any intersection and adjust. That's when you should go to the place you see the problem and start do adjustment through the closest intersections. You can save settings for every single intersection as far as I know. At any rate, if you are a normal person, you'll probably run out of steam after doing 20 or 30 intersections or so, and really not much more than that should be off.

I think the projector's convergence adjust flexibility is great, but I also think the interface is kind of annoying since for each new intersection some window pops up. They should have done it so there is an "adjust" and a "move" toggle via the center button, without the annoying pop up window.
Thanks.
The interface is kinda confusing. Not noobie-proof. As this is my first projector, I'll try my best to do what I can.

Anyway, the fan is very quiet. I have the projector 2' above and behind my head (on shelf placement)...and I don't heard the noise during movie playback.
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