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Official Epson EH-TW 9200 5030UB Owners' Thread - Page 76

post #2251 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

Thanks.
The interface is kinda confusing. Not noobie-proof. As this is my first projector, I'll try my best to do what I can.

Anyway, the fan is very quiet. I have the projector 2' above and behind my head (on shelf placement)...and I don't heard the noise during movie playback.

The fan noise is nearly zero if the bulb is running in one of the low-intensity modes. It is noticeable in the higher-intensity modes. Keep in mind that the bulb loses quite a bit of brightness in the first 50 hours or so, so you might end wanting more of that intensity. I did, and now I think the picture is something out of this world! Oh and as for being your first projector, congratulations! This is my second and I'm very happy with it..
post #2252 of 2959
I wanted to update everyone on my projector and the focus issue. It's gone. I don't know if it was a new bulb thing (have 62 hours on now) or that I was just not waiting 30 minutes for the adjustments as the manual stated. Whatever the reason it hasn't slipped focus again. I don't even notice it off when the unit first heats up either. In fact it's really perfect focus across the entire screen.
post #2253 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by domitron View Post

I wanted to update everyone on my projector and the focus issue. It's gone. I don't know if it was a new bulb thing (have 62 hours on now) or that I was just not waiting 30 minutes for the adjustments as the manual stated. Whatever the reason it hasn't slipped focus again. I don't even notice it off when the unit first heats up either. In fact it's really perfect focus across the entire screen.

Any three panel projector needs around 30 minutes for the panels to warm up and stabilize. Glad to here that your problem is gone. smile.gif
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post #2254 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

How do I correct the convergence error? FYI, I have the red line appearing slightly above the white line.
I've went to the pattern settings, with color R, R/G/B, then adjust with the UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT buttons....but I don't see a difference. Am I pressing it wrong?

Hi Skylinestar,

 

I recently posted in the 5020 thread on my experience with panel alignment which applies equally to your 5030:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1449027/epson-5020ub-owners-thread/1170#post_24283018

 

My advice, after trying both methods is to totally ignore the corners and intersections in the LCD alignment process.

 

Instead, identify what your problem is from any image with easy to identify pixel structure. The Epson's menus are good for this.

Then simply apply your pre-calculated adjustment equally to all four corners in the alignment process.

Note that until you have done that to all four corners, it doesn't seem to be working.

 

According to historical threads for this projector's lineage, a value of 8 equals one whole pixel.

I.E. If you want to move the red line down a pixel, apply a Vertical + 8 to all four corners in the alignment process for red.

 

If you do anything else, such as changing each intersection or corner to make each area look good whilst doing the alignment, you are forcing the Epson to apply scaling, potentially with a different ratio in each area of the screen.

In my experience doing that lowered the overall sharpness of my image.

 

Following the 'all four corners the same in multiples of 8' method I now have great alignment with uniform sharpness.

 

The crucial post for me to change my alignment method was in the 5010 thread @ http://www.avsforum.com/t/1377321/official-epson-powerlite-home-cinema-5010-6010-thread/930#post_21631035 

post #2255 of 2959
http://www.projectorcentral.com/epson_6030ub_runco_x200i.htm?page=Observations

:)Home Theater Projector Shootout:
EPSON 6030UB vs RUNCO X-200i
post #2256 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmhart View Post

That looks like the moire effect caused by the texture of the surface you're projecting onto interacting with the visible pixel structure of the projector, though you've said you tried projecting onto a wall and noticed the same thing which should rule that out. Does changing the 'roll' angle of the projector make any difference in the pattern (by raising one side of the projector)?

You were exactly right. I thought I tested on a blank wall but that must have been an error on my part. I held up a piece of white paper and the lines totally disappear! Does this mean that my screen material is defective? The screen is the Elite acoustically transparent 1080P2 material.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008M11Y9U/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They do have a P3 which was more expensive and supposed to be for 4K which didn't seem to have a benefit for me. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated!
post #2257 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orwellflash View Post

http://www.projectorcentral.com/epson_6030ub_runco_x200i.htm?page=Observations

:)Home Theater Projector Shootout:
EPSON 6030UB vs RUNCO X-200i

Projector Central loves the Epson 6030 and for good reason - it is a solid projector and best in class in its price range. I will get mine in two weeks and I can't wait. The Oppo 103 paired with the 6030 should make for some fine movie viewing.
post #2258 of 2959
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orwellflash View Post

http://www.projectorcentral.com/epson_6030ub_runco_x200i.htm?page=Observations

:)Home Theater Projector Shootout:
EPSON 6030UB vs RUNCO X-200i

 

Added to other reviews in Post #3. Thanks.

post #2259 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by teebo2345 View Post

You were exactly right. I thought I tested on a blank wall but that must have been an error on my part. I held up a piece of white paper and the lines totally disappear! Does this mean that my screen material is defective? The screen is the Elite acoustically transparent 1080P2 material.

You know what? The screen material isn't defective, you're just more demanding than most people, you actually don't want your screen material to cause visual artifacts. Welcome to my world biggrin.gif
post #2260 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg_R_STL View Post

You know what? The screen material isn't defective, you're just more demanding than most people, you actually don't want your screen material to cause visual artifacts. Welcome to my world biggrin.gif

Haha - yes this is true. No denying it. Do you have a recommendation for an acoustically transparent screen that wont show this moire effect?
post #2261 of 2959
Ordered my TW9200W, should be here within 2 weeks. Have someone installing it for me at home, and calibrating it at the same time (with a re-calibration after 500 and 1000 hours of use). Very anxious to see how it'll stack up against my previous projectors (Optoma HD20 and Benq W1070).
post #2262 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by teebo2345 View Post

Haha - yes this is true. No denying it. Do you have a recommendation for an acoustically transparent screen that wont show this moire effect?

Heck, the problems I had were with NON a.t. screen materials. Putting a bunch of little holes in your screen is just asking for trouble tongue.gif Seriously though, if you go DIY, I think that spandex would be a good way to go for AT. I tried a two layer test with JoAnn spandex, there are many, many threads on this, and it looked pretty good, it just wasn't quite right for my particular frame.
post #2263 of 2959
New 6030 owner, quick question.
Is it normal on startup for the image to be completely green for aprox. a min or so?
After colors balance out.

Thanks
TL
post #2264 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by trans_lux View Post

New 6030 owner, quick question.
Is it normal on startup for the image to be completely green for aprox. a min or so?
After colors balance out.

Thanks
TL

Mine does it, as do others in this thread, so I would say yes.
post #2265 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by lapino View Post

Ordered my TW9200W, should be here within 2 weeks. Have someone installing it for me at home, and calibrating it at the same time (with a re-calibration after 500 and 1000 hours of use). Very anxious to see how it'll stack up against my previous projectors (Optoma HD20 and Benq W1070).

Good stuff - I don't think you'll be disappointed with your decision. Let us know your impressions once you get things set up. smile.gif
post #2266 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg_R_STL View Post

Mine does it, as do others in this thread, so I would say yes.

Thanks for the quick response and info.
post #2267 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCDA View Post

Good stuff - I don't think you'll be disappointed with your decision. Let us know your impressions once you get things set up. smile.gif

I have a Beamax M-Series 102" motorized screen with a 1.5 gain (I think, invoice says 1.5 but internet info seems to differ between 1.2 and 1.5). Is that ok for this projector? Type is Beamax 10236 M.
(this one http://www.livingcinema.eu/beamax-10236-white-size-244x142-169-matte-white-gain-p-542.html)
Edited by lapino - 1/31/14 at 8:04am
post #2268 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by lapino View Post

I have a Beamax M-Series 102" motorized screen with a 1.2 gain (I think, invoice says 1.5). Is that ok for this projector?

At that size and gain, in a light controlled environment, you should be very happy with the performance in both 2D and 3D. This projector is capable of generating a lot of light, and a positive gain 102 inch screen should really pop. Light control in the room, as with any projector, is key.
post #2269 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by teebo2345 View Post

Haha - yes this is true. No denying it. Do you have a recommendation for an acoustically transparent screen that wont show this moire effect?

You might try talking to the guys at Seymour. They have what are probably the two best AT screen out there. One line is available only through custom dealers and is quite expensive. However, their CenterStage XD screen is reasonable and you can buy directly from them.

If you're doing a fixed screen, they will tilt the screen material in the frame before mounting it to make it moire-proof. If you need a retractable, they will send you a sample to test with your projector at your viewing distance and screen size to see if moire will be a problem for you, although they claim that it is almost never a problem.

Anyway, check them out at www.seymourav.com. There is also a thread for owners on AVS.
post #2270 of 2959
+1 for Seymour.
post #2271 of 2959
Hey everybody. I'm experimenting with different sharpness and super resolution settings and have settled on sharpness 2, SR 3. Can you guys post your numbers? I'm wondering if I'm on the high side, but so far it looks great to me. My calibrator had it as 0 sharpness and SR1, which looks very detailed. The way I have it now looks more detailed, sharper IMO. Thanks!
post #2272 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by willymo View Post

Hey everybody. I'm experimenting with different sharpness and super resolution settings and have settled on sharpness 2, SR 3. Can you guys post your numbers? I'm wondering if I'm on the high side, but so far it looks great to me. My calibrator had it as 0 sharpness and SR1, which looks very detailed. The way I have it now looks more detailed, sharper IMO. Thanks!

 

http://www.projectorcentral.com/epson_6030ub_runco_x200i.htm?page=Calibrations

 

Here is Projector Central's calibrations for their 6030..........

post #2273 of 2959
Anyone have any idea if this projector would beat my JVC RS10 in contrast, black levels, etc?
post #2274 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigly View Post

Hi Skylinestar,

I recently posted in the 5020 thread on my experience with panel alignment which applies equally to your 5030:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1449027/epson-5020ub-owners-thread/1170#post_24283018

My advice, after trying both methods is to totally ignore the corners and intersections in the LCD alignment process.

Instead, identify what your problem is from any image with easy to identify pixel structure. The Epson's menus are good for this.
Then simply apply your pre-calculated adjustment equally to all four corners in the alignment process.
Note that until you have done that to all four corners, it doesn't seem to be working.

According to historical threads for this projector's lineage, a value of 8 equals one whole pixel.
I.E. If you want to move the red line down a pixel, apply a Vertical + 8 to all four corners in the alignment process for red.

If you do anything else, such as changing each intersection or corner to make each area look good whilst doing the alignment, you are forcing the Epson to apply scaling, potentially with a different ratio in each area of the screen.
In my experience doing that lowered the overall sharpness of my image.

Following the 'all four corners the same in multiples of 8' method I now have great alignment with uniform sharpness.

The crucial post for me to change my alignment method was in the 5010 thread @ http://www.avsforum.com/t/1377321/official-epson-powerlite-home-cinema-5010-6010-thread/930#post_21631035 

How do you know if Red or Blue is not aligned?
All I get from alignment grids is gray lines (small boxes).
post #2275 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by usxplong View Post


How do you know if Red or Blue is not aligned?
All I get from alignment grids is gray lines (small boxes).

 

That is probably a good thing as it sounds like you have good alignment already although they should be more white than grey when you have the pattern set to R/G/B.

 

If you go right up to the screen and see the blue or red lines separated from the green lines (or each other) that is misalignment.

 

At a certain distance your eyes will merge those lines back into a white line.

So if they are only slightly misaligned (indicated by a red or blue tinge/glow around the line) that is normal for 3 panel projectors and I probably wouldn't bother with the digital alignment feature.

 

If you can see separated colours at over half your viewing distance (I could see mine at actual viewing distance) the alignment is probably bad enough to give the LCD Align feature a go.

post #2276 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by usxplong View Post

How do you know if Red or Blue is not aligned?
All I get from alignment grids is gray lines (small boxes).
I had a similar thought when I first tried it, but it turned out that my projector had dead-on alignment from the factory -- although I'm seeing essentially white lines/boxes and not gray. Anyway, I moved the alignment by 8 pixels off from 0 and then I could see the color shift that means it's misaligned. I do this alignment from a few feet from the screen, not from the normal viewing distance.
post #2277 of 2959
Can't remember if I asked this, but does anyone here who owns the 5030 have an elite screen or monoprice?

If you do, how are they with this projector?
My screen is going to be one or the other based on budget.
The elite will be the cinetension, and monoprice will also be the tensioned one.
post #2278 of 2959
My Epson 8100 ... seems to be starting to die ... Buzzing and overheating every time ... so I was considering upgrading, the 5030 is a bit of a stretch but was wondering how much of an upgrade this would be in terms of Overall picture quality, and how much better does an Epson 5030 seem compared to an Epson 8350?

Thanks
post #2279 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigly View Post

That is probably a good thing as it sounds like you have good alignment already although they should be more white than grey when you have the pattern set to R/G/B.

If you go right up to the screen and see the blue or red lines separated from the green lines (or each other) that is misalignment.

At a certain distance your eyes will merge those lines back into a white line.
So if they are only slightly misaligned (indicated by a red or blue tinge/glow around the line) that is normal for 3 panel projectors and I probably wouldn't bother with the digital alignment feature.

If you can see separated colours at over half your viewing distance (I could see mine at actual viewing distance) the alignment is probably bad enough to give the LCD Align feature a go.

Thanks. So far I don't see any B, R or G colors. So I think I am set.
Now why I see grayish instead of pure white?
Maybe my projector has only about 2 hours on it or my brightness is too low.
post #2280 of 2959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuke61 View Post

I had a similar thought when I first tried it, but it turned out that my projector had dead-on alignment from the factory -- although I'm seeing essentially white lines/boxes and not gray. Anyway, I moved the alignment by 8 pixels off from 0 and then I could see the color shift that means it's misaligned. I do this alignment from a few feet from the screen, not from the normal viewing distance.

Thanks for the tip. I moved my alignment by 8 pixels and I could see the colors too then I moved it back to 0 and no colors.
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