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A screen paint question... and much more!

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
I'm currently building our new theater room and I've got several questions before I start purchasing material.

Screen size and base material:
The screen will be 16:9, 120" 'zero-edge' PVC foam with dimming LED back-lighting. The examples I've seen in this forum look fantastic.
My current calculations place the support frame 1.5' from the screen edges. Is this distance appropriate for the LED glow to be pleasantly visible? Is 1' more practical?

I have found two sources for the screen material - 60" x 120":
- Brand unspecified PVC 6mm white @ $150, 25 minute drive.
- Komatex PVC lead-free (I won't be eating either material) 6mm white @ $116, 60 minute drive.

Are these prices competitive? Reading the forums here indicates that either brand, Sintra or Komatex, would be suitable.
Is there anything I should look for to ensure the quality of the sheet other than a smooth surface?

Viewing environment:
Basement room, no windows.
Films, gaming, 2d and 3d content (primarily 2d)
I will be viewing films without any ambient light. My wife, however, would like some ambient light so that she can point out the mess the children are making with their food and beverages. I rather enjoy the house lights coming up to a shocking popcorn disaster. The wife not so much - queue sad trombone. The LED back-light may provide enough light, but if not, a dim lamp or floor lighting may be in use.
The maximum throw will be 15'.

Projector:
I will be replacing a pico that I'm using temporarily to gauge the screen size and seating.
I have not purchased the actual projector yet, nor do I have much experience with them, but I've looked at the JVC-x35 and the Epson 5020ub. I am open to recommendations on any other projector, or strong opinions against either of the two I'm currently comparing.

Using the x35 as an example, and a maximum 15' throw, the elitescreens calculator gives me 25fL, which must be with the absolute brightest mode. Eliteprojector calculator confirms this with ratings from 7-25fL. 13.8fL using low lamp. For 3D viewing, dynamic mode produces 20fL. Is that too low? Again, I don't have much experience here.

Screen paint recipe:
Which DIY screen paint formula do the experts on this forum recommend, given these somewhat flexible constraints?
post #2 of 12
Thread Starter 
I have another plastic supplier that took some time to get back to me.
60" x 120" - Sintra - 6mm - white - $75 (approximately 1 hour away)

The price difference for this product in a 60 mile radius is interesting. Double the price to get it locally seems ridiculous.
So, is $75 a competitive price, or should I expand my search?
post #3 of 12
MM would tell you that's a good price, I think. About what it cost for me, which he told me to jump all over.
post #4 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by zenscope View Post

I have another plastic supplier that took some time to get back to me.
60" x 120" - Sintra - 6mm - white - $75 (approximately 1 hour away)

The price difference for this product in a 60 mile radius is interesting. Double the price to get it locally seems ridiculous.
So, is $75 a competitive price, or should I expand my search?

You need to take a running start and jump on that Board too....I wish I could get 6mm in my local for that price. In Memphis, that is a "3mm" price point.

The 5020 on Low Lamp is excellent. Silver Fire 2.5 3.0 is an ideal choice that provides sufficient ambient light performance yet will deliver a dynamic 3D image even on Low lamp mode.
post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

You need to take a running start and jump on that Board too....I wish I could get 6mm in my local for that price. In Memphis, that is a "3mm" price point.

The 5020 on Low Lamp is excellent. Silver Fire 2.5 3.0 is an ideal choice that provides sufficient ambient light performance yet will deliver a dynamic 3D image even on Low lamp mode.

Thank you both for the advice. I ordered the board, and I'll get the SF materials together next.
post #6 of 12
Thread Starter 
I'm designing the frame and mount system for the sintra screen. Gathering bits of information from the forum, it looks like I want to do the following:
  • Glue a frame (1x3 or 2x4) on the back of the sintra
  • Screw a french cleat to the wall
  • Screw the french cleat mate to the back of the frame
  • Wrap the frame with my led lighting system
  • Hang the sintra

Should I use a second cleat at the bottom of the frame, or shim it?
post #7 of 12
Shim It
post #8 of 12
Thread Starter 
I put the screen and projector up to test the setup before we finish the room. The space works very well, and the bias lighting provides a pleasing effect. I'm going to work on prototyping a dynamic bias lighting controller to modulate the LED color based on the overall screen color temperature. Nothing like the magical MS IllumiRoom prototype, mind you, but something very simple and fun. smile.gif

Looking forward to continued progress on the room itself - if I can tear myself away from watching something.

Album:
Unpainted 6mm Sintra with LED bias lighting

Bias lighting - Matching
Bias lighting - Tertiary
post #9 of 12
That looks great man! I'd really love to hear anything you uncover while looking for the dynamic bias lighting. That's something I'd definitely integrate into my setup. Did you use the same LED kit I used on my build or did you go with another supplier? I ask because I'm curious about how well your bias lighting module could be incorporated into other LED lighting kits.
post #10 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thank you, I'm really happy with the way this looks.

I had already ordered my lights before I saw your post with the link. I think they are a little different, but the pwm module that controls the lights should be the same.

Based on our previous chat, I think you may have the 3528 SMDs. I ordered a 10m strip of 5050's which are slightly bigger than the 3528's. They have more light per diode, but I think there are less of them on the strip. The controller output should be the same for all of these lights.

Ebay auction link

To anyone else considering the LEDs, I'd recommend using your own laptop power supply. The psu that came with my kit buzzes when the pwm kicks in when the LEDs are dimmed. You can't hear it during a movie, but in a quite room it can be annoying. This is typical of dirt cheap psu's running a pwm load.
post #11 of 12
The Parts Express lights I got were waterproof 5050s (to make sure the color was blindingly bright...) but that Ebay link looks like it's more lights for cheaper. I might have to use that for my next project (my bar shelving)!

I also did buy a separate power supply with the highest amps I could find. To your point the cheap ones have a hard time pushing enough power to handle anything over 5M, which both of our screens are.

Regardless of the light brand, I think you can rewire any of the controllers to the lights as long as you keep the wires in the right order. Did you already find some type of device that sets the bias lighting based on the screen color or are you still looking around? This would be awesome! Let me know if you do find something that works!
post #12 of 12
Thread Starter 
I think the 5050s are the right choice for this project. I think the 3528 would be too dim. With my 5050's fully dimmed, the light is almost unnoticeable when watching a movie (depending on the darkness of the scene). Due to my lumber limitations, my frame sits 5.5 inches from the edge of the screen.

For the adaptive bias lighting, I was going to design something myself. I don't think there is anything out there that will do it for me. The tricky part is doing this with a projection screen since the most cost effective way of accomplishing the color detection is with a set of LEDs and a photoresistor. The sample rate would be relatively fast, but the reactivity of the bias lighting could be adjustable. A small lens and diffuser would assist in reducing the entire screen into a workable sample size. The problem with this method is that shining a light on a projection screen at such a close distance will likely reveal too much of the screen substrate, and I don't think the sensitivity of these components could handle this (not to mention the complexity involved in hiding this from the viewer - using IR won't work). The other option is to use a true color detection chip, but then the cost increases by a significant amount.

I'll keep looking around and tinkering, and let you know what I find.
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