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Want to start DIYING!! BIG ROOM WHAT CAN I GO WITH! - Page 2

post #31 of 99
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

the THT and the F-20 are very very similar and are the little brothers to the lilwrecker.. the lilwrecker is a front loaded horn like the THT and F-20 but it goes down easily to 15 hz... the THT and F-20 limit out about 22 hz

The lilwrecker is a tapped horn, not front loaded.
post #32 of 99
Quote:
Originally Posted by stormwind13 View Post

The lilwrecker is a tapped horn, not front loaded.

you're right. I was thinking it was front loaded due to the similarities of the F-20.... but it was based on the house wrecker which was also a tapped horn so you're right.
post #33 of 99
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

you're right. I was thinking it was front loaded due to the similarities of the F-20.... but it was based on the house wrecker which was also a tapped horn so you're right.


Also from my discussions with Mike, 1 microwrecker will = 2 lilwreckers from 25hz on up. So if you don't care much about the sub 20hz stuff you may want to look at the micro.
post #34 of 99
Daaaaaang. That's a beast
post #35 of 99
Frankie if you dont think you have the build chops for a tht what makes you think the lilwrecker or any other horn will be an easier build? The THT has very detailed plans.
post #36 of 99
Quote:
Originally Posted by BadmanSound View Post

Frankie if you dont think you have the build chops for a tht what makes you think the lilwrecker or any other horn will be an easier build? The THT has very detailed plans.

This
post #37 of 99
A LilWrecker is a very easy build as long as you can run a circular saw, a drill, and a caulking gun for the PL. When I built mine I didn't have a very good saw guide but I used clamps to hold my junk saw guide in place and it did well enough. It is a huge cab but it isn't difficult. The fold is very simple. Mike has the plans for the whole thing available here for free. Someone else posted the bracing plans and they work well too. I spent way too much effort windowing my braces. I built mine over a weekend, let it dry, moved it and started rocking it on a Monday. Mike even helped me setup my miniDSP (of course I did my background so that we could speak the same language). His "customer service" is great. I don't have anything against other horns but if I had the space I'd have a pair of the LilWreckers rather than just the one.
post #38 of 99
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chilort View Post

A LilWrecker is a very easy build as long as you can run a circular saw, a drill, and a caulking gun for the PL. When I built mine I didn't have a very good saw guide but I used clamps to hold my junk saw guide in place and it did well enough. It is a huge cab but it isn't difficult. The fold is very simple. Mike has the plans for the whole thing available here for free. Someone else posted the bracing plans and they work well too. I spent way too much effort windowing my braces. I built mine over a weekend, let it dry, moved it and started rocking it on a Monday. Mike even helped me setup my miniDSP (of course I did my background so that we could speak the same language). His "customer service" is great. I don't have anything against other horns but if I had the space I'd have a pair of the LilWreckers rather than just the one.

what is a mini dsp and where do I find one.. lol
post #39 of 99
post #40 of 99
Thread Starter 
this is getting to be alot right now. lol maybe i should try sealed or ported subs. ughhh but i want horn subs! have to fight thru this and take it very slow i guess cause this is not going to be a easy process.
post #41 of 99
You will need something like mini DSP for the ported sub's too for the high pass filter. Horn sub's are in many ways easier than ported
post #42 of 99
And probably the sealed too since sealed sub's need more eq on the low end
post #43 of 99
Thread Starter 
now if i go with 2 ported 18 in subs which subs should i uses how big of a box? theres these subs i have for my car there 8s and there great on low end! skar audio if someone can check them out and let me know? or im either going to go with dayton or SI subs for ported or sealed. prefer ported. or any other recommendations thanks guys..
post #44 of 99
For the 18's a 12 cu ft box net is about right. That is for the Dayton's or si
post #45 of 99
The miniDSP is there for two reasons: 1) to match the room and sub, and 2) to provide a high pass filter slightly below the tuning frequency of the horn (and I also run a low pass at 200Hz just in case -- even though my AVR has a low pass at 120Hz). Number 2 is the most important as you don't want accidentally smash the moving parts of the woofer into the non-moving parts of the woofer.

Some amps have DSP built in. I bought Crown amps, which have a DSP but not one that will provide a high pass in the region where I need it. The XLS Crown amps are inexpensive. I bought my first at retail but my second off eBay (an XLS1500 to drive my Klipsch RF-7iis). Decent prices can be found on eBay.

I'm only using 1 of 4 outputs on my miniDSP. I'm running my 1 crown XLS1000 in bridged mode with 700w going to one LilWrecker wired for 8 ohms.

I could easily add a 2nd LilWrecker in parallel providing a 4 ohm load to the Crown which can source 1100w at 4ohms (or 550w per LilWrecker). And that would really rattle the house. If I wanted to break the foundation of my house I could add another Crown XLS1000 amp, use another output off my miniDSP, and drive two more LilWreckers. At that point I probably wouldn't be able to even hear my wife divorcing me. cool.gif
post #46 of 99
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chilort View Post

The miniDSP is there for two reasons: 1) to match the room and sub, and 2) to provide a high pass filter slightly below the tuning frequency of the horn (and I also run a low pass at 200Hz just in case -- even though my AVR has a low pass at 120Hz). Number 2 is the most important as you don't want accidentally smash the moving parts of the woofer into the non-moving parts of the woofer.

Some amps have DSP built in. I bought Crown amps, which have a DSP but not one that will provide a high pass in the region where I need it. The XLS Crown amps are inexpensive. I bought my first at retail but my second off eBay (an XLS1500 to drive my Klipsch RF-7iis). Decent prices can be found on eBay.

I'm only using 1 of 4 outputs on my miniDSP. I'm running my 1 crown XLS1000 in bridged mode with 700w going to one LilWrecker wired for 8 ohms.

I could easily add a 2nd LilWrecker in parallel providing a 4 ohm load to the Crown which can source 1100w at 4ohms (or 550w per LilWrecker). And that would really rattle the house. If I wanted to break the foundation of my house I could add another Crown XLS1000 amp, use another output off my miniDSP, and drive two more LilWreckers. At that point I probably wouldn't be able to even hear my wife divorcing me. cool.gif
Haha im going to need 2 of them with out at doubt.
post #47 of 99
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatsnasty View Post

Worm summed it up nicely... you can get under 20hz output with the lilwrecker (17hz tuned horn)
Gjallarhorn ( 17hz tuned horn)
LTD's first post (LLT = large low tuned box) 12cubic foot ported tuned to 17hz

Or my signature build, 16.3 Hz wink.gif
post #48 of 99
if you'd like, we may be able to modify/customize the "submaximus" experimental horn design to work for you. it is a big front loaded horn with about a 17hz corner or so.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1485120/submaximus-a-large-front-loaded-horn-for-stereo-integrity-ht-18

in any case, grabbing as many stereo integrity 18 ht drivers while they are on sale for $219 delivered would be a good idea whatever you end up doing.

a quad set of the dual 4 ohm drivers would work quite nicely with a behringer inuke 6000dsp amplifier. net out to 4 ohms per channel or around 1100 watts per driver.
post #49 of 99
also, i'm not sure what the maximum usable excursion is in the kicker 15" / lilwrecker. i'm guessing somewhere in the 15-20mm ballyard. that gets you up into the 117db or so area. the submaximus with its big fat hiney and the si 18 ht driver with 22mm xmax and more usable will be up in the 123-124db or so area. just so you have some idea of some numbers to work with...

doubling subs and power gives +6db, btw.
post #50 of 99
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

also, i'm not sure what the maximum usable excursion is in the kicker 15" / lilwrecker. i'm guessing somewhere in the 15-20mm ballyard. that gets you up into the 117db or so area. the submaximus with its big fat hiney and the si 18 ht driver with 22mm xmax and more usable will be up in the 123-124db or so area. just so you have some idea of some numbers to work with...

doubling subs and power gives +6db, btw.

will look at it.. I just ploted some stuff and idk if I did it right but this is what I got plus its an easier build I think for my first time diy..
post #51 of 99
Thread Starter 
how to I post a pic? what to show the graphs

SI18inPLOTS.jpg

theres 2 drivers in each.
im a lil confused tho. the vents in the vented one (obviously lol) says:
NUM of vents 2
Vent dia: 0.459ft
Vent length: 23.95in Vent mach: 0.10
there circle vents

2 vent I understand lol
dia of vents will be about 4in?
total length of both vents are 23.95 or each?
and vent mach---??
Edited by frankie2075 - 9/15/13 at 8:48am
post #52 of 99
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

also, i'm not sure what the maximum usable excursion is in the kicker 15" / lilwrecker. i'm guessing somewhere in the 15-20mm ballyard. that gets you up into the 117db or so area. the submaximus with its big fat hiney and the si 18 ht driver with 22mm xmax and more usable will be up in the 123-124db or so area. just so you have some idea of some numbers to work with...

doubling subs and power gives +6db, btw.

The CVX has an xmax spec of 17 mm, it is functional to about 20 mm, and I have never clanked it (I've driven it a bit beyond 3" p-p). Honestly though, for the $, there are better values in drivers available for the LilWrecker.
I like the Alpine Type S 15 or the Stereo Integrity HT15s.

If you have a bit more $$ burning a hole in your pocket, the Fi Q 15 models well.
Edited by lilmike - 9/15/13 at 9:01am
post #53 of 99
Thread Starter 
withsi24in.jpg

the hot pink is the new 24in subwoofer in a 50cuft box tuned to 13hz
post #54 of 99
post #55 of 99
If you go with the LilWrecker, I'd recommend going with the Alpine driver. My measurements were very similar to what was produced with the original Kicker driver. Use the money saved buying drivers to get good amps (good amps last forever) and some measurement equipment (http://www.minidsp.com/products/acoustic-measurement/umik-1). When Mike designs the NeighborhoodWrecker you'll probably still be able to use the same amp you purchase for this project.
post #56 of 99
Thread Starter 

The first amp is 7000$ lol and idk what amp I want to buy cause I have to first decide what sub I'm going to go with.. I like a crown amp or the I nukes.
post #57 of 99
Thread Starter 
Hey guys been thinking and hopefully in nov i can start my build. Been reading alot of threads and seen alot of dayton 18in in there own enclosures or dual opposed. I was wondering what the diff is ? Just flexibility? And was thinking of doing 2 in a box total of 4 drivers but ported in the middle?! Anyone experience with this? Tuning to 18hz or 20hz?
Edited by frankie2075 - 10/8/13 at 11:03am
post #58 of 99
have you looked at the...

MARTY SUB!



post #59 of 99
Thread Starter 
Looks very cool! Im not sure i understand it looks a lil complicated and its really long i need more vertical. Thinking more traditional round tube ports or vented but the 2 subs on the front baffle round ports on either side in the middle or vented on the bottom.
post #60 of 99
were you thinking something like this?

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1494029/limited-space-for-new-sub-build#post_23815113

it will perform the same as the MARTY SUB!
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