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URC-WR7 fails to control AVR weeks after setup

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
Hey.

I've set up my friend's music and HT stuff over the years. Last major effort was a new plasma and bluray. Had her buy a URC-WR7 for convenience. I set it up promptly with no issues, and all seemed to work well.

Months later I got a distress call, and found that the remote was working fine except it wasn't sending commands to the AVR. I did a factory reset and re-programmed everything, and again left her with a working setup. Weeks later, it happened again, re-programmed again. And failed yet again.

Here are the components the remote must command:

Panasonic TC-P50S30 plasma
Panasonic DMP-BDT210 bluray player (VIERA-link disabled)
Marantz SR-7000 AV receiver (over 12 yrs old)
ROKU (1 or 2 generations old, Ethernet connected)
Mitsubishi(?) VHS

This will be my 3rd visit for this (35 miles away), and I'm out of ideas.

I recently read a blurb that suggested plasma TVs might disrupt remotes somehow. This remote is never closer than 10 ft away. I guess the URC-WR7 is an IR, not sure, if that matters.

It "feels" as though the URC-WR7 simply drops the Marantz codes. I've programmed it for the AVR a couple different ways: the preferred "Quick Setup", and also "Auto Search" methods. Each sets up fine, but somehow fails later on.

Is it possible the Marantz's old age is a factor? (I've got an SR-8000, no problems with a very old URC-100)

Anyone familiar with these budget URC models? Any known issues with URC-WR7 in particular?

If I need to move to another remote, any suggestions? Needs to be inexpensive, easy to operate. My friend is VERY tech-averse.

Thanx in advance!
Edited by gdX - 9/27/13 at 3:11pm
post #2 of 13
Low batteries?
post #3 of 13
Thread Starter 
Thanks, but that was the first thing we checked.
post #4 of 13
If it happens again, unplug the tv, see if the remote still controls the Marantz. It probably still does. Switch to RF, by adding the next generation IR extender to the WR7 remote.
post #5 of 13
Thread Starter 
Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edmund View Post

Switch to RF, by adding the next generation IR extender to the WR7 remote.
Exactly what does that mean, and how is that done?
post #6 of 13
post #7 of 13
Thread Starter 
Thanks, Edmund.

OK, I'm up to speed now; didn't realize it was a product.

Will be looking at my friend's issues tomorrow. Instead of adding gadgets to the existing remote, could I simply get a new RF remote, such as the RF-10?

http://www.amazon.com/URC-MasterControl-RF10-Universal-Capability/dp/B000FL5OIW/ref=sr_sp-btf_image_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1380394251&sr=1-4&keywords=URC+RF+remote

Seems cheaper and simpler. Or does the RF-10 need ITS little add-on "PowerBlaster" to work properly?

All we need is to control a few components grouped in one room.
post #8 of 13
Yes, the RF10 needs a basestation to communicate via RF, cheaper basestations than the mrf100, is the above next generation extender in 418 MHz, or older x10, radio shack pyramids like the following:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y254/tivoburkee/img_0231.jpg
post #9 of 13
Thread Starter 
Thanks again, Edmund. You've been very helpful.

Are there ANY remotes that are RF right out of the box?
post #10 of 13
No, for there were to be one, the RF circuitry has to be built into the components themselves, if it were, it would be RF only and the only RF remote to control it is the oem remote. So universal RF remotes use outboard basestation to accept the RF commands and turn them back into IR commands.

What great about the next generation extender(NG), it turns non RF remote into a RF remote. When using the RF10 with NG 418 MHz extender, you don't need to use the battery gizmo, the RF10 remote communicates directly with NG spaceship. And when using RF10 with older linked extenders, it communicates directly with pyramid receiver, no need to point at the pyramid transmitter.
post #11 of 13
post #12 of 13
Thread Starter 
Thanks again, guys. I've got plenty to resolve this now.

Been playing with HT for years, but never realized remotes got complicated. I just buy 'em, they work, and then last for years.
post #13 of 13
Remote isn't actually the problem. It's fine. Edmund's test should confirm that IR noise from the TV is the problem. But rather than buy a different TV, it's easier to work around with a new RF remote.
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