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Seas Idunn Build

post #1 of 26
Thread Starter 

Got started this few weeks ago. 

 

Midbass H1571-08 U18RNX/P

Tweeter H1499-06 27TBCD/GB-DXT

 

Still waiting filter components and drivers, but had hard work with enclosures.

 

 

... done so far:

 

 

19mm MDF, CNC cut

 

 

Glued

 

Some small filling and sanding + white leather bonding

 

Ports and binding post installed + one layer STP vibration absorbing 

 

Sides, filling and sanding

 

 

Sides, painting and sanding

 

Sides, painted, sanded, varnished and more sanded + varnished

 

post #2 of 26
^^^ Looking real fine, NICE finish work.
post #3 of 26
Thread Starter 

Before i gule sides, i will put more coats of lacquer (3-4 coats) and wetsand it bit more. Lacquer is already like mirror, with pleasure i left color little bit wavy under the lacquer coat.

post #4 of 26
What mids and tweeters are you using? I could not get the links to work. Nice build, though! I like the idea of a white leather front baffle!
post #5 of 26
Quote:
 

Ports and binding post installed + one layer STP vibration absorbing 

 

 

I've never seen anyone use this stuff before on speaker enclosures. I would have at least put a couple braces, front to back and top to bottom.

post #6 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

I've never seen anyone use this stuff before on speaker enclosures. I would have at least put a couple braces, front to back and top to bottom.
+1. That type of material is useful where braces and standard damping materials, polyester, fiberglass or foam, cannot be used, such as in car doors. It's not a substitute for them in regular enclosures.
post #7 of 26
Thread Starter 

This vibration damping material will absorbs vibration absolutely on top of whatever kind of material. Even if the absorbing percent is small, it sitill works. This will binds the box inner part. 

Now, there is thin layer lamb wool aslo.

 

Had a plan to provide more stiffness (3mm layer resin - that what you use with fiberglass) but its not subwoofer and did not used this.

 

http://www.upload.ee/image/3642048/CAM01713.jpg <- Here is woofer box with resin layer, corners are thicker. And after that, one layer same STP vibration absorbing. It play´s really good!

post #8 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

What mids and tweeters are you using? I could not get the links to work. Nice build, though! I like the idea of a white leather front baffle!

http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=271&Itemid=247

 

http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=184&Itemid=179

 

All white parts have leather. Chocolate brown sides are 3mm bigger (every way).

post #9 of 26
That Seas tweeter is pretty sweet! I like the tweeter housing that Seas said was created to address directivity issues that are present in normal dome tweeter configurations. This setup should sound excellent due to the high quality of drivers that are being used, assuming that you know how to properly build a quality crossover.

Speaking of which, can you tell us anything about the crossover? Passive? Active? Are you building it your self?
post #10 of 26
It's a complete kit from seas. It's a little bright but ultra detail.
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/2-way-speaker-kits/seas-idunn-2-way-speaker-kit-pair-parts-only/
post #11 of 26
Thread Starter 

I did´nt bought complete kit. I ordered onlu drivers... Passive crossover will come soon, one Estonian guy who works with capacitors and this kind of stuff (crossovers and more..) will make it for my project. 

 

I´ll post some more details soon.

post #12 of 26
I would imagine that with a properly designed crossover, those will sound pretty nice! I really like the Seas stuff, especially their mid-range drivers as every one of them that I have heard sounds terrific! I wonder how this kit would perform if it was modified to have a pair of Dayton RS225's or a pair of Seas Excel woofers, or possibly even a single AE TD12 in a 3-way configuration? Might be hard implementing a TD12 due to having to pad down the tweeter and mid to match the sensitivity of the TD12.
post #13 of 26
Thread Starter 

Crossover is symmetrical with a 2.2kHz crossover frequency. The crossover point was chosen so that the directivity of the drivers make the overall power response extremely smooth, as can be seen in the measurements. Complexity of the crossover was held as low as possible witout sacrificing any of the audible perfomance. This is possible to achieve, because of the drivers very smooth response. On the woofer there is a simple 2nd order network, and on the tweeter there is a equally simple 3rd order network and an L-pad to trim the tweeter sensitivity. Together they align the phase of the drivers excellent and a gives a smooth interdriver transition. The rolloff of the drivers is steep enough to alow them to work effortless even at high power levels, thus maintinaing the smooth and detailed sound quality at all levels and allowing them to be as dynamic as possible. 

 

There will be Jantzen Audio MOX resistors, same brand Cross Cap capacitors and air cored coils. I belive that the result will be good, but if not so good, then i´ll sell them and change crossover parts and use more better ones.

 

Drivers and crossovers will cost ~around 190€/per speaker + all other materials for enclosure.

 

 

 

These will be my first decent speakers what i have made. There is still long way to go, I have time for more better projcets. ;)

post #14 of 26
Thread Starter 

Just got good news, drivers and crossover parts just arrived to Estonia. I really hope that i can do first listening beginning of next week. :D

post #15 of 26
Sweet! Let us know how you like them! I bet they will sound pretty fantastic!

Have you ever built or owned any other speakers to compare these to?
post #16 of 26
Thread Starter 

:)

 

I have built few more pairs, but I did not had so good drivers there. I had Monitor Audio Bronze BX2 before, also I have chance to compare my speakers with Audes Studio´s. 

 

Here is a bit information about these Audes speakers http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue1/audes.htm

post #17 of 26
Thread Starter 

:D

 

post #18 of 26
I have had my eye on this particular kit for a long time. looks like a very nice little speaker. As far as i know the woofer and tweeter is also used in some pretty high end stuff and it can still be had for a reasonable price. The measurements I have seen on the Idunn looks good so i think its a well thought out filter as well. Its very smooth, both on and off axis. When you are done i hope you report back your impressions smile.gif

Even if its a smallish speaker i also think a little bracing would be a good idea. From the drawings it looks like the box sides are completely without support. At least i would put a little bracing on those. You can always experiment with insulation later if needed. They mention 250g insulation material per speaker in the seas paper, so that might be a good starting point.
post #19 of 26
Thread Starter 

Yeah, i was looked many-many different drivers. I got good feedback on this set. I had opportunity to order whole kit (drivers and kit crossovers) but I ordered all parts separately and got better price. Also I have handmade crossover now and guy who made it, he knows about these things and he works every day with crossovers and speakers.

 

If this crossover is poor, I will sell it and he will make a better one, but I am pretty shure that it sounds gooooood.

 

Madisound offers different crossovers also, "w/ Goertz Copper Foil inductors & Mundorf Supreme" will cost ~200$ extra.

 

Sound/vibration suppression with layers of different acoustic particular materials is better than one thick material because sound/vibration does not go from other material to another so good like it spreads in one homogeneous material.
You will get much more effect if the materials acoustic particulars are different. 

 

Thats why I used this STP damping layer also in enclosure.

 

Of course I will report my impressions when i have listened it, but first...

Bracing... of course it would be good, but its still pretty small enclosure and I did not want to overkill it with bracing. Maybe someone can give some small suggestions? I mean that how much, where exactly?


Edited by sssb - 10/20/13 at 7:42am
post #20 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by sssb View Post

.
Bracing... of course it would be good, but its still pretty small enclosure and I did not want to overkill it with bracing. Maybe someone can give some small suggestions? I mean that how much, where exactly?
Even a single brace connecting opposing panels in the middle is the equivalent of doubling the panel thickness. Watch this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJy3TscsL-U&feature=player_embedded
post #21 of 26
Thread Starter 

Enclosures got some bracing, so they are stiff now.

 

 

 

99,5% done. 

 

I made some small test listening yesterday... tweeters are really good, and I read one other forum post where guy said thaht no bass at all, i can´t say it. 

 

I´m really impressed, sound is goood! I will finish some small things today and tomorrow i´ll get new amp, i will play them little more and give some report and pictures.

post #22 of 26
I am very much looking forward to hearing your subjective listening impressions! I have been looking into some traditional speakers that I could build for my fiancé's apartment, no horn/waveguide designs, and this Seas speaker is high on my list. I am also considering the Statement Monitors, Zaph SR71, and Zaph Z3.5 or similar Zaph builds.


I wonder how your Seas build would compare to the Statement Monitors of Zaph ZA3.5?
post #23 of 26
Thread Starter 

 

 



S
ome new pictures, today i got new amp and can listen them bit better amp quality. 

 

Martycool007 - I can´t say nothing about Zaph speakers, but I can say that these two what I own, they sound really sweet and detailed. 

 

I´ll let you know soon, as I said I can listen them now... I was missing good amp before.

post #24 of 26
very sexy looking speakers. great job on esthetics...
post #25 of 26
Kus näha saab?
post #26 of 26

Great job...

a) do you know of a less expensive kit of electronics that would closely emulate the Seas Prestige kit you are using... such as something from parts express?

b) Did you cut drill the panels yourself... if not what/where did you buy/pay for the cabinetry stuff?

c) Noticed that you used thinner panels than Lee Taylor's original design... reason/effect?

 

Thanks - hope you love them!!!

 

Mike Miles

milesguy@gmail.com

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