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Decoupled ceiling: existing foundation/beam vs. clips and hat channel

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
Hi folks,

I'm just trying to lay out some framing ideas for a dedicated HT in my basement. Home is a ranch, poured concrete foundation with a single steel beam down the middle.

The space for my HT room is ~15x24, with a foundation wall and beam running the long direction...joists obviously spanning the 15' (sorry). Top of the sill plate is 8'6" from concrete floor.

There are next to no mechanicals run between the joists in this area, so I could easily run new HT ceiling joists between them. However, there are mechanicals perpendicular, along both the beam and the foundation that impede my ability to frame a supporting wall without losing significant ceiling height or room width (if I move the walls inward to avoid mechanicals). What i'm left considering is a) running new HT ceiling joists from existing beam to existing foundation, b) running clips and channel across existing floor joists or c) both.

It seems that using the existing foundation would provide some isolation (similar to staggered stud construction), but I don't know how it would compare to using clips. My plan is to double stud wall everything but the wall along the foundation and 2 x 5/8 + GG everything. We'll see how the budget holds up when i get all of that priced out.

I did look around for a similar thread but hadn't seen this discussed in my search so far.

Thanks!
post #2 of 10
picture please
post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
Sorry for the slow response!

Here are two pics from the basement. One for each side. The water and gas supply could probably be moved somewhere else, but I don't have a good spot where they aren't going to get in the way of some other part of the remodel.





The new joists would run from the sill plate above the drain to the beam just past the gas/water supply lines. I plan on using 2x6 for the concrete wall side, which would encompass the drain, and tack furring strips (or clips and channel) to the joists to address the supply lines.

I don't want to necessarily overkill this thing, but it's right below the master bedroom, and the last thing I want is loud thumping sounds and screaming to disturb the kids while they're trying to watch a movie.
post #4 of 10
OK you can accomplish your goals without additional joists, I'm out the door and will explain tonight if others don't chime in. Treat the underside of the sub floor, then clips and channel on walls and ceiling. Hang soffits off the decoupled wall and ceiling.
post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

OK you can accomplish your goals without additional joists, I'm out the door and will explain tonight if others don't chime in. Treat the underside of the sub floor, then clips and channel on walls and ceiling. Hang soffits off the decoupled wall and ceiling.

OK, sounds like new joists aren't going to add much/any value over clips and channel. Unless you think there's a special case here, I can dig up the rest from the other threads on ceiling treatment.

Thanks a bunch!!!
post #6 of 10
Adding a couple layers of drywall with green glue directly to the bottom of the sub-floor has a remarkable effect.
then add clips and channel to both the ceiling and walls. Use two layers of heavy 5/8 dw with green glue.
Hang the soffit from the drywalled ceiling and walls. It should be double layers with GG
Edited by BIGmouthinDC - 10/17/13 at 4:47pm
post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Sorry to bump the thread just to say thanks, but thanks!
post #8 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Adding a couple layers of drywall with green glue directly to the bottom of the sub-floor has a remarkable effect.

Do you just screw the drywall into the subfloor? What size screws do you recommend for the 1st layer? For the 2nd layer?

How important is the caulking around the edges between the drywall and the floor joists? Is it purely an added mass, or is there more to it that the caulking adds?

My wife has bionic hearing and complains at way below reference levels, so I need to do all I can to eliminate direct and flanking paths out of my dedicated basement theater remodel. This seemed like the logical first step before doing the walls or running wires.

Thanks,
Mike
post #9 of 10
The key to screw length is not to pierce the upper flooring and if you have Hardwood above, not to lock it forever in place from below. So assuming you are using 5/8 drywall and your subfloor is at least 5/8 you can use 1 1/8 -1 1/4 screws just don't over sink on the first layer. Then 1 5/8 on second. You don't need to caulk the perimeters. Use the Green Glue and overlap the seams
post #10 of 10
Thank you very much! I appreciate the quick, concise response!!

Have a great new year!!
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