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DIY frame using Semour Center Stage XD

15K views 37 replies 9 participants last post by  cw5billwade 
#1 · (Edited)
First I would like to thank everyone in the dedicated theater design and construction area of AVS and all their help.

The Screen in a word is amazing I made it constant image area 2.0:1 so over all it is 126"x65" that gives me
126"x52" 2.40:1 with 136" diag, 6 12" bars top and bottom
126"x54" 2.35:1 with 137" diag, 5 1/2" bars top and bottom
120"x65" 1.85:1 with 137" diag, (man this size make it like being there) 3" bars both sides
116"x65" 16x9 with 133" diag. 5" bars both sides
So in the way the best of both worlds If I would have done a 2.40:1 screen 126" wide my 16x9 size would have been 92"x52" with 106" diag. If I would have done 16X9 65" tall my 2.40:1 would have been 116"x48" 126" diag.

I wanted to try something different for the super bowl so I tested last week on Avatar which is 16x9. Essentialy I just blew it up the 16x9 image to fit the 2.40:1 image width. Since it is 2.0:1 screen what I had was a image 126" wide x 65" tall. there was about 4" of over scan into the velvet at the bottom of the screen. It was huge. a total of 142" of image on the screen. The game looked great that size.

this image was from my Samsung Galaxy S5 trust me the image and screen are square the trapeziod in the picture is due to how I was holding my phone.
Form front saet no zoom


that is 142" Dia in your face

Second row with sconce off

with sconce on low the Insteon dimmers are great with these LEDs I can dim to les than 10% before they turn off



I was going to do the now famous Big minimalist screen wall but could not find any 5/4 fingered join pine anywhere. They only carry the 1” which is more like 5/8” so we decided to beef it up with a 2x4/MDF/2x4 sandwich. http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130923_170339-1.jpg.html
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130923_170353-1.jpg.html
a little dark brown paint I know it is not black but it is what I had (saving black for screen frame)
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130923_185221-1.jpg.html
The inside 2/4 was 3 ½” shorter top and bottom to accommodate our install method. Same with the cross beam
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130923_185257-1.jpg.html
We fastened a 2x4 to a piece of MDF and attached to the ceiling. Then we used a plumb to locate the bottom plate. Sorry for the blurry Pics
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130923_141447.jpg.html
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130923_141514-1.jpg.html
then we installed the inside 2x4 with ears for the cross beam to mount
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130924_100248.jpg.html
from behind you see the ears
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130924_095149-1.jpg.html
after that we installed the 2x4/OSB which was screwed to the finger joined pine
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130924_100314-1.jpg.html
and there you have it
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130929_200307.jpg.html[/URL
 
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#2 ·
What comes next the screen of course we started with the 1x3" fingered joined pine cut the piece to accommodate the Seymour 125”x64” DYI screen I ordered. I ordered it with the grommets installed and the bands. We cut to length and used the kregg tool to make our connections.
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130924_125356.jpg.html
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130924_125412.jpg.html

Perfect square 141 7/8" we used the L and T brackets and the Z bars to hand it on the cross beam
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130924_142001.jpg.html
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130924_142014.jpg.html http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130924_142020.jpg.html
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130924_145605.jpg.html

I trimed it with some toe molding so the screen would not ever tuch any of the suport beams
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130924_145712-1.jpg.html

done
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130925_174428.jpg.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC  /t/1468993/the-retirement-dream-home-theater/240#post_23842889



From the man him self this means alot
 
#4 ·
I worked with Jon at Seymour AV on my Center Stage XD on a custom Constant Image Area 2:1 screen with grommets and bands to wrap my DYI frame. It turned out being 126" wide and 65" tall giving me a 2.35:1 of 126"X53" 136" diagonal and a 16x9 of 115"x65" 132" diagonal
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130929_165119.jpg.html
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131019_145236.jpg.html

at first I laid out the screen punt my frame down and marked the screw locations 1 1/4" above each grommet.
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130929_171241.jpg.html

you see here that the screw is perpendicular to the grommet as indicated by the marker.
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130929_173841.jpg.html
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20130929_181936.jpg.html

when we got it on the wall there was a lot of sag so I chatted with Jon via email and Chris via PM and their solution was to add another 1/4" and to also have the screws get further off center as you got closer to the corners. Hope you understand what I mean. You can see the old screw holes
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131019_150656.jpg.html

Wrapping the corner was interesting
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131019_151257.jpg.html
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131019_151241.jpg.html

and done it is tight as a drum I think that the velvet also helped as it was a smother surface so less resistant than the painted wood for the fabric to stretch over http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131019_151432.jpg.html

With my LED accent lighting
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131019_151449.jpg.html
 
#5 ·
This is me trying to learn how to use my Panasonic AE8000

From the back of room
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131020_223706.jpg.html
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131020_224118.jpg.html

I zoomed my camera still from back
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131020_223657.jpg.html

from the front seat with no zoom of camera
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131020_224139.jpg.html

Before anyone asks this is before I did some fine toning of the projector leveling and what not I have to say the image is bright and after running Audyssey on my Denon AVR X4000 you do not even know the screen is there or the speakers are behind it.
 
#7 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter  /t/1495884/dyi-frame-using-semour-center-stage-xd#post_23867756


Do you use any sort of masking at all?
My intention is to make panels using the SYFabrick triple plush velvet for the top and bottom of the screen. At first the panels will just be above and below the screen like any other 2:35:1 CIH screen. If I find that the black bars projected by the AE-8000 are distracting there are some great threads over here about building light weight masking panels you just slide into place SYFabrick also carries the triple plush velvet in multiple colors so the jury i.e. my wife is still out whether we will do red or black drapes on the sides or just do panels there as well in the black. If I do the Red drapes I will probably make the leading edge toward the screen have a 6” boarder of the black. My intention is to keep my front speakers in the 16x9 area and since there is only about 5” bars left and right on the 16x9 due to my 2.1 screen there should be no issues in the sound field with 2.40:1.
 
#8 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade  /t/1495884/dyi-frame-using-semour-center-stage-xd#post_23860277


I worked with Jon at Seymour AV on my Center Stage XD on a custom Constant Image Area 2:1 screen with grommets and bands to wrap my DYI frame. It turned out being 126" wide and 65" tall giving me a 2.35:1 of 126"X53" 136" diagonal and a 16x9 of 115"x65" 132" diagonal



at first I laid out the screen punt my frame down and marked the screw locations 1 1/4" above each grommet.


you see here that the screw is perpendicular to the grommet as indicated by the marker.



when we got it on the wall there was a lot of sag so I chatted with Jon via email and Chris via PM and their solution was to add another 1/4" and to also have the screws get further off center as you got closer to the corners. Hope you understand what I mean. You can see the old screw holes


Wrapping the corner was interesting



and done it is tight as a drum I think that the velvet also helped as it was a smother surface so less resistant than the painted wood for the fabric to stretch over

With my LED accent lighting
Perhaps I am reading the instructions wrong for the DIY screen.  You built the frame, wrapped it in velvet, and then wrapped the frame, velvet and all, with the screen.  Isn't the velvet suppose to be visible?  Did you modify the instructions?  Also, above and below your screen, did you cover with GOM or basic drywall?  Looking to build my screen as well.  I like the way you did it as it ensures the screen to be nice and tight.  Haven't even ordered the supplies yet, but thought that the black velvet boarder would look sharp.  Thanks for any feedback you can give.  Seems like the more I learn, the more questions I have, lol.

 

KA
 
#9 ·
You read and understand correct. Most DYI frame builds that wrap the screen around the frame the way I did normally paint the frame black which is what I did at first. The idea is black absorbs light and white reflects light and since an AT screen is translucent and light goes through it if the frame was white it would reflect back. Tim and others recommended to warp the frame with the triple plush velvet which is used to frame most screens as it absorbs more lite than most fabrics. Since I have it to build my panels with I figured why not.


My screen is 24" from the front wall which is lined with 1 1/2" mineral wool and covered with black materiel I bought from from SYFabrics. I am going to make panels above and below the screen and wrap them with the tipple plush velvet also purchased from SYFabrics. So my entire screen wall will be triple plush velvet not just a frame around the screen like most do. My friend had a screen with a 3" border of the velvet and when watching 2.40:1 the black bars which are projected above the image actually were wider than 3" so we had to wrap some 1x6 finger joined pine with velvet to absorb the over projected back bars. I will either make panels on the sides of the screen or drapes made from the triple flush fabric.
 
#10 ·

Thanks for clearing that up.  I am assuming you are putting your L/C/R speakers behind the screen and maybe your subs?  Do you have enough room with 24''?  How low from the ceiling are you hanging the screen?  I am worried about mine (going way too big) consuming the whole wall and not have enough space between the screen and floor/ceiling.  Right now I am planning on 6'' from the ceiling and 18'' from the floor.  I like the idea of an entire velvet front wall.  Have you heard any feedback on if it impacts acoustics?  Looks great so far, love to see more pictures of the room/stage area!
 
#11 ·
yes my speakers are behind the screen on stands so that tweeter is at ear height. 24" is tight but most LCRs are not that deep it is the subwoffers where you may have an issue with 24" depending on what you get. my subwoffers are not behind the screen they are located 1/4 of the room width from both the side walls which is just outside the screen to the left and right. They will still be behind either the curtain or panels that I have yet to build. The Seymour Center Stage XD materiel is designed for the speakers to be there and both DTS and Dolby standards locate the speakers there so it is a positive effect on the acoustics. 6" from ceiling and 18" from floor should not bee an issue. I have seen other builds with less.
 
#13 ·
A lot of folks were asking what I was going to do around the screen so here is the frame wall build.

My granddaughter helping with my screen wall frames and my Grandson and Son-in-law Kevin helped me wrap them.
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131207_131340.jpg.html
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131229_164445.jpg.html

I made the frames out of 2x2s all of the 2x2s in my build are from ripped 2x4s so unlike the 2x2s purchased at box store they are 1 1/2 x 1 3/4 vise 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 this plays into the overall depth or height so you need to watch which way it is turned or you may end up taking things apart. Ask me how I know!

Here are the frames getting ready for the triple plush velvet bought at SyFabric
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131229_115118.jpg.html
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131229_115145.jpg.html

When I laid them on the 44" wide velvet there was plenty to wrap around both frames making less waste.
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131229_120709.jpg.html

Just like before just wrap pull tight and staple the crap out of them
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131229_133854.jpg.html

I wrapped the ends like a Christmas present. Yes I said it “Christmas” those political correct Nazis can kiss my A$$
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131229_141134.jpg.html

finished product
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131229_133844.jpg.html
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131229_142528.jpg.html
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/cw5billwade/media/theater/20131229_142544.jpg.html
 
#34 ·
A lot of folks were asking what I was going to do around the screen so here is the frame wall build.

Are these just "Friction Fitted" around the screen?

And, I assume Friction Fitted, basically means measured relatively precisely so that you have to 'squeeze' them into place/ force them into place? How does that work for the 'bottom' of screen... I assume you aren't pushing 'up' on the screen (or screen would come undone from zclips)... is this piece friction fitted to the two side/vertical panels?

Also... do you think the Syfabric was needed 'under' the screen edge to avoid reflection vs the black painting you did?
 
#14 ·
I am still not sure about whether I was going to make panels for the sides or curtains and I had enough velvet to wrap some 2x4s to temporally frame my screen so I went for it. That is what Kevin and Austin were helping me with. I kind of like the overall look and will post before and after as well.



The frame and 2x4s made it so dark I had to turn my back lighting on to get some good contrast.


This was the before my buddy Rob and I made boxes out of 2x4and MDF and wrapped them in Carpet remnants to get tweeter at ear height actually just above ear height for 1st row.



From behind


Here is the finished product agian with back lighting I like the look may not do anything.


more shots with out the 2x4s



This shot best shows all my colors


view from outside door
 
#17 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade  /t/1495884/diy-frame-using-semour-center-stage-xd#post_24298469


My bad DIY
That's what I thought but didn't want to assume. BTW, it's DYI in your sig too.
Thanks for posting stuff like this. I'm not very good with my hands so it's always nice to watch you guys do this and it's helpful to have good "how to" pictures if I ever venture into it.
 
#18 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by AYColumbia  /t/1495884/diy-frame-using-semour-center-stage-xd#post_24298646


That's what I thought but didn't want to assume. BTW, it's DYI in your sig too.
Thanks for posting stuff like this. I'm not very good with my hands so it's always nice to watch you guys do this and it's helpful to have good "how to" pictures if I ever venture into it.
thanks I fixed my signature. It helps me to have friends that have skills and then I learn from them.
 
#19 ·
Came out great - we have similar carpet too! (mine is brown version of what looks to be the same thing)
 
#22 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball  /t/1495884/diy-frame-using-semour-center-stage-xd#post_24810474


What do you think the savings are vs a purchased frame/completed screen?   I like the flexibility on the dimensions, but wondered if the 'cost' was a 10% savings, 20% savings, etc?


Thanks,



Kevin

Provided you own tools and possess skills, you can save as much as 50% by building the screen yourself. I saved about 25%, but I had to purchase a saw, plus I had a friend help out as well.


But I've also put together one of the Seymour fixed screens, and if you have the budget and don't want to take the time to build it yourself, they are really simple to put together and they work great.
 
#23 ·
If you look at their web site Seymour AV store a 137" Diag 16x9 is $1167 there 2.35:1 at 140" Diag is $1156 I paid a little over $550 for the screen cut on a 15 degree angle with grommets. You can get the materiel for a little over $350 and stretch and staple the screen but I did not want to go that route. I probably only have $50-$75 in wood and hardware but you would have to build the minimalist wall anyway and the hanger brackets so for the frame itself less than $30. If you wanted the headache of stretching and stapling the material you would save $75% if you go the route. I did I saved right at 50%. They have some pdf instructions on the site how to stretch the materiel. I just wanted a tight professional look you get with the grommets and bands. Seymour AV, DIY screens The $500- $600 you save is another DIY Sub
 
#24 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade  /t/1495884/diy-frame-using-semour-center-stage-xd#post_24814308


If you look at their web site Seymour AV store a 137" Diag 16x9 is $1167 there 2.35:1 at 140" Diag is $1156 I paid a little over $550 for the screen cut on a 15 degree angle with grommets. You can get the materiel for a little over $350 and stretch and staple the screen but I did not want to go that route. I probably only have $50-$75 in wood and hardware but you would have to build the minimalist wall anyway and the hanger brackets so for the frame itself less than $30. If you wanted the headache of stretching and stapling the material you would save $75% if you go the route. I did I saved right at 50%. They have some pdf instructions on the site how to stretch the materiel. I just wanted a tight professional look you get with the grommets and bands. Seymour AV, DIY screens The $500- $600 you save is another DIY Sub
Thanks for the input.  I definitely would want to do the grommets as well, that seems to remove a bit of the room for error (or, allows you to reposition screws easily if there is an issue!).  

 

I was all set for a pair of HSU VTF-15s, but have just started looking at some of the DIY Subs... I frankly know very little about any of it, so, lots of researching those threads if that is the way to go.  The little I have looked into that, I believe I would buy the DIYSoundgroup pre cut panels/boxes, again, similar to the grommets - reducing the chance of error (and frankly, time involved!).  I am planning in wall speakers, and hadn't found any DIY in-wall with enclosure speakers yet.
 
#25 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball  /t/1495884/diy-frame-using-semour-center-stage-xd#post_24814335


Thanks for the input.  I definitely would want to do the grommets as well, that seems to remove a bit of the room for error (or, allows you to reposition screws easily if there is an issue!).  


I was all set for a pair of HSU VTF-15s, but have just started looking at some of the DIY Subs... I frankly know very little about any of it, so, lots of researching those threads if that is the way to go.  The little I have looked into that, I believe I would buy the DIYSoundgroup pre cut panels/boxes, again, similar to the grommets - reducing the chance of error (and frankly, time involved!).  I am planning in wall speakers, and hadn't found any DIY in-wall with enclosure speakers yet.
I had a dead 12" JBL Sub and was looking at replacing or fixing it which led me to parts express. I talked with their techs that are great and decided to build one of their kits from Dayton and repair my JBL. Here is a link to My Dayton Audio T1204K 12" Titanic Mk 4, 500 Watt RMS Subwoofer Kit build I also bought a matching 500 Watt Dayton Plate amp and fixed my JBL so now I have 2 sweet subwoofers. You can read the details over there but you cannot go wrong. I know a lot of folks who build the Subs do a passive model with a Crown or Behringer amp in their rack but to me a plate amp is easier. Also I put two 20 amp circuits in the front for the plate amps and ran the RCA cable so I was sort of locked into that route. 2 of these 12" kits or even their 15" kits would sound really nice. My buddy has an HSU VTF-15 and don't get me wrong it is sweet but My 12" Dayton is close for less than half the price the 15" kit would be half of the HSU so you could get 2 for the price of one and they will hold their own. Two subs at 1/4 wall length in from each side will eliminate a lot off the nulls across the seating for better all around base. You can also get the Same Kits Erich sells at DYI Sound group with a 15” driver then and a Behringer amp for about the same cost. The Dayton Plate Amps has equlization but the Behringer does not so that is an additional cost as well


my 12" kit Dayton Audio 12" Titanic Mk4 500 watt subwoofer kit

15" kit Dayton-audio 15" titanic-mk4 1000 watt subwoofer kit


or this

15" woofer with flat pack Dayton Aaudio 15" ultimax subwoofer and cabinet package

and this

Behringer EP4000 Europower Power Amplifier 2 x 1400W Behringer ep4000 power amplifier 2x1400w
 
#26 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade  /t/1495884/diy-frame-using-semour-center-stage-xd#post_24814509



I had a dead 12" JBL Sub and was looking at replacing or fixing it which led me to parts express. I talked with their techs that are great and decided to build one of their kits from Dayton and repair my JBL. Here is a link to My Dayton Audio T1204K 12" Titanic Mk 4, 500 Watt RMS Subwoofer Kit build I also bought a matching 500 Watt Dayton Plate amp and fixed my JBL so now I have 2 sweet subwoofers. You can read the details over there but you cannot go wrong. I know a lot of folks who build the Subs do a passive model with a Crown or Behringer amp in their rack but to me a plate amp is easier. Also I put two 20 amp circuits in the front for the plate amps and ran the RCA cable so I was sort of locked into that route. 2 of these 12" kits or even their 15" kits would sound really nice. My buddy has an HSU VTF-15 and don't get me wrong it is sweet but My 12" Dayton is close for less than half the price the 15" kit would be half of the HSU so you could get 2 for the price of one and they will hold their own. Two subs at 1/4 wall length in from each side will eliminate a lot off the nulls across the seating for better all around base. You can also get the Same Kits Erich sells at DYI Sound group with a 15” driver then and a Behringer amp for about the same cost. The Dayton Plate Amps has equlization but the Behringer does not so that is an additional cost as well


my 12" kit Dayton Audio 12" Titanic Mk4 500 watt subwoofer kit

15" kit Dayton-audio 15" titanic-mk4 1000 watt subwoofer kit


or this

15" woofer with flat pack Dayton Aaudio 15" ultimax subwoofer and cabinet package

and this

Behringer EP4000 Europower Power Amplifier 2 x 1400W Behringer ep4000 power amplifier 2x1400w
It turns out Parts Express is about a 15 - 20 minute drive from where I live, I may have to go up and meet with them for some education & help.   I must say, looking at the site is a bit over-whelming.  The two kits you refer too, definitely seem simple - but then there are just so many options out there!  I appreciate being pointed in the right direction, and now that I know this place is so close, it will make it worth the trip to learn a bit about this stuff first hand!
 
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