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Double Stud wall - how much space between it and foundation wall - Page 2

post #31 of 44

What I don't understand is from the west wall to the riser, it's 12'-8" but the boiler room size is 14' yet it's supposed to be smaller?

That hall width is 8'-10" according to that drawing yet the scale of the hall has a smaller footprint than the stairs which has the thread length at 3'-6".

Its confusing me

post #32 of 44
Thread Starter 
Yep,the measurements are correct. I need to redraw to scale.
post #33 of 44

Then that would mean the start of your stairs is basically in front of the boiler room and not to the side. That's throwing me off.

post #34 of 44
Thread Starter 
BigM you mentioned about theflankingproblem if I leave two if the walls as bare poured concrete foundation

I want to do this the right way
How wouldi putawall in frontof the foundation wall?
What would I secure it to as the ceilng is already finished w clips and at channels
Also whatwould I put on theback of the frame nexttothefoundation. As there wouldn't be room to get behind there to hang drywaall
Lastly thespace islimited so hopefullyit won't take up too much room

Thx
post #35 of 44
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmontesi View Post

Then that would mean the start of your stairs is basically in front of the boiler room and not to the side. That's throwing me off.

CMontesi - I've updated the diagram, also I've organized the thread to better help others.
So please see this design threadw/ the updated diagram- Thanks!
BigM - Please reply in this FW thread in regards to the wall for the foundation wall
post #36 of 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgott42 View Post

BigM you mentioned about theflankingproblem if I leave two if the walls as bare poured concrete foundation

I want to do this the right way
How wouldi putawall in frontof the foundation wall?
What would I secure it to as the ceilng is already finished w clips and at channels
Also whatwould I put on theback of the frame nexttothefoundation. As there wouldn't be room to get behind there to hang drywaall
Lastly thespace islimited so hopefullyit won't take up too much room

Thx

You would frame a wall one inch or so off the foundation. If the ceiling is already finished and you aren't keen on fastening the wall to the ceiling you would use IB3 clips as standoffs. Secure one end with masonry anchors and the other to a few studs (every 3-4 ft) near the top. The framing can stop one inch shy of the existing ceiling.

found this image with google

post #37 of 44
Thread Starter 
thanks! - what tools do I need to fasten the masonry anchor to the foundation wall. And is there anything that I need to do so that I don't make a crack in the foundation?
re: the ceiling - I'd attach the wall to the ceiling - however now that it's finished - how can I find where the hat channel is?
post #38 of 44
get a magnetic stud finder to locate the screws that originally fastened the drywall to the channel. this sucker works and will hold itself on a wall or ceiling to a hidden screw.

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI
post #39 of 44
Thread Starter 
If I create a wall and attach it to the ceiling joists via whisper clips or RISC clips - should the face of the wall also then have whisper clips + hat channels installed to hold the DW+GG+DW (i.e. double decoupling) - or does the it then get attached directly to these studs since they are decoupled? (looking for LFE containment for $600 SVS sub - i.e. nothing rediculous , but regular theater level volume and sub)?
post #40 of 44
No, you do not want to double decouple. Two options:

1. Build your wall so that the top plate is an inch or so short of the joists above. Then use IB-3 clips to attach the top plate to those joists. Finally, fasten your sheetrock to the studs as in any other room in the house. IB-3.

2. Build your new wall and mechanically fasten the top plate to the joists above (nails, screws, etc.). Then add WhisperClips and hat channel to the face of your new wall. Finally, attach sheetrock to the hat channel. Be sure to use appropriately sized screws so that you do not screw the sheetrock directly to the framing. WhisperClip.
post #41 of 44
Thread Starter 
thanks -I didn't realize that double decoupling makes things worse (If I'm understanding correctly - or did you just mean that it's a waste of $$ , with no added benefit)
I think I read in the forum that option (1) is the better of the options
post #42 of 44
Think of a decoupling as a spring coil. You have a certain resonance. Now take two slightly or very different springs and connect together - what do you get? Definitely not something calculated for that application. Decoupling clips are designed for an operating range, combining it with another decoupling may very well move it outside the useful range.
post #43 of 44
Thread Starter 
thx
post #44 of 44
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post

No, you do not want to double decouple. Two options:

1. Build your wall so that the top plate is an inch or so short of the joists above. Then use IB-3 clips to attach the top plate to those joists. Finally, fasten your sheetrock to the studs as in any other room in the house. IB-3.

2. Build your new wall and mechanically fasten the top plate to the joists above (nails, screws, etc.). Then add WhisperClips and hat channel to the face of your new wall. Finally, attach sheetrock to the hat channel. Be sure to use appropriately sized screws so that you do not screw the sheetrock directly to the framing. WhisperClip.

Probably a stupid Q, but just to confirm:

Finally about to start framing the wall - the ceiling (made last year) is already decoupled from the joists (i.e. 3 layers of DW+GG+DW+GG+DW attached to the ceiling joists via Whisper Clips + Hat Channel ) - being so do I attach the stud of the new wall directly to those hat channels - or do I need IB3 or other clips to separate the new wall - I'm guessing I don't need but want to confirm.
I'm figuring to use 4" screws - b/c 3 sheets of DW = 15/8” + 1.5” wood stud (2x4) = ~3.5” - so the screw will go 1/2" into the hat channel, and there's a 7/8” gap until the ceilign joists
Not sure if it will ruin the soundproofing of the ceiling
Edited by cgott42 - 12/23/13 at 12:35pm
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