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My Dayton RSS460HO 18" Dual Opposing Subwoofer Build

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
So for some time I've had growing interest in adding an 18" subwoofer(s) to my system. I've owned an 18" Cerwin-Vega Stroker 18D2 for some time, and recently I had interests highly develop for the Dayton RSS460HO. So I ended up buying one, still deciding on enclosure for it, but I had grown impatient, and bought a second to get the 4 cubic foot flat pack for a better price at Parts Express, which have been very satisfying! I have plans to integrate both the Cerwin-Vega Stroker 18 AND both Dayton drivers into my system, but this thread I'll focus on the Daytons I have. wink.gif

Having ran numbers via WinISD, and reading these forums, one thread on Dual Opposing Daytons by @Gorilla83 has sparked my interest greatly, and running numbers myself on that design versus the single driver in a 4 cubic foot enclosure has truly shown me what I really want to do!


Here's the graphs I made up with WinISD to compare my current 4 cubic foot enclosure with the soon to be built enclosure, I've based the power input based off what Ricci had mentioned that the driver can take in a 4.2 cubic foot enclosure with out worries of clanking the driver, right here in this post. smile.gif

The SPL:


The Cone Excursion:



So the design I will use will be based off what Gorilla83 has made in his thread for his awesome build, so credit to him, for certain. biggrin.gif


I'll be using 1" MDF sheets I have, and please excuse my little drawings, and handwriting, but here's what I figured up so far.

Note: The cubic feet I have written doesn't show the difference the bracing will make, but I'm figuring with three braces I plan for, will bring it down by about 0.42 Cubic feet... but don't quote me on that. tongue.gif





So this is the plan so far, with 2" thick baffles.


So what do you guys think so far? I'm no expert, I just learn as I go, since this is really new to me still. redface.gif
post #2 of 12
looks good. it's late (for me), but I *think* all your cuts work.

what amp and eq do you have in mind?
post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
I'll start off with my QSC PLX2402 which will output 1,500 watts into 8 ohms bridged, since I'll have to wire the Daytons in series, but I plan to get a Crest CC4000 which will push 2,800 watts into 8 ohms bridged, which is what I based my graph off of. smile.gif

Equalizer will be my Behringer DCX2496, I have my full system posted here.
post #4 of 12
The only thing I might mention (unless you can cut very exact) is to cut a little larger where it makes sense and trim down with a trim bit so it's really flush..
post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 
Hey Steve, the cuts should be able to be pretty exact. Dad and I will make sure to measure twice, cut once. smile.gif

Our table saw has a guide on it to help keep it straight and at the desired length. We built my entertainment center together, but this would be the first speaker box project, ever.
post #6 of 12
What advantage or dissadvanteges are there between (1) Dual Driver opposing sub and (2) Single Driver subs ??
post #7 of 12
Well the advantages of using two different enclosures are the smoothing of the frequency response, which is the ideal way to go, unless you can afford to build multiple duel opposed enclosures. I see no advantages in building only one duel opposed sub.
post #8 of 12
Quote:
Our table saw has a guide on it to help keep it straight and at the desired length. We built my entertainment center together, but this would be the first speaker box project, ever.

I admittedly could use a new table saw. guilty smile.gif Anyway I didn’t mean to be sarcastic, I just know what a pain in the arss it is to be a 16 or 32 under when matching at least three sides on the baffle squaring things up. If you’re using trim it won’t be that critical though. Your entertainment center looks very nice! cool.gif
post #9 of 12
Make your cuts a bit more than you need....learned this after building 4...no matter how good you measure its never gonna be perfect....router with trim bit is a savior smile.gif
post #10 of 12
Thread Starter 
Well we did begin cutting on our first material, and I think we may have to go the circular saw + straight edge route. Despite it following the guide and us holding it straight enough the cut ended up curving towards the end, some how. Fortunately it only added to the length rather than take away, so it can be trimmed down. However this wood is too thick and too heavy to work with as it stands. Man 3/4" Oak was by far lighter than this! eek.gif

I really should take a scale to our shop and weigh the 1" MDF... I swear it exceeds 100 pounds... lol Already feel my back hating for the box to be fully built.


On other news, this is going a tad slow for now, while we focus on getting things done in the workshop, since we had it built last year and we are working on the electrical (Finally). Recently got the lights up. smile.gif

Took the picture with my phone, and it also was night time when I took this.
post #11 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoodcom View Post

I really should take a scale to our shop and weigh the 1" MDF... I swear it exceeds 100 pounds... lol Already feel my back hating for the box to be fully built.

I believe a full sized sheet (4'x8') of 3/4" MDF weighs about 96 pounds, so your 1" thick sheets probably weigh about 120 pounds each. Just thought your back would like to know... tongue.gif
post #12 of 12
roughly 4.35lbs per square foot for 1" mdf
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