Here's my adventures in building two sealed 4 cu ft DIY Flat Packs with the Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 ohm subwoofers. As of this writing I completely finished one of them. I'm a complete novice in this area...so be gentle.
2' clamps were all that I would have needed for this project instead of 3' clamps.
Here's a quick parts list for the project:
Dayton Audio 18" Reference Series HO Subwoofer and Cabinet Package
Dewalt 3-Amp Orbital Power Sander
BIN Primer (tinted gray or as dark as possible)
Sandblaster Premium Abrasive (For baffle area and edges)
Rust-Oleum Flat back Spray Paint
Truck Bed Boating
MH Ready Patch
1/4"-20 Press in Wood Inserts x 8
1/4"-20 x 1-1/2" Socket Cap Screws x 8
1/4" Flat Washer - 18 PC
3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive
Acousta-Stuf Polyfill Speaker Cabinet Damping Material 5 lb
Gold 12 AWG 1/4" Female Disconnect 5 Pair
Square Speaker Terminal Cup 4" Gold Banana Binding Post
3" Hole Saw
DIYSoundGroup Flat Packs all boxed up. TIP: Save the boxes. They will come in handy during spray painting:
Really packaged well...no damage to any of the parts
I started by laying out all the pieces onto a table
I did a dry fit test to see how things came together.
Then I brushed off all the edges and tops/bottoms of the pieces to get all the dust off of them
Here's the process of gluing (Titebond II) and assembling the flat packs.
I used this rafter angle square to help make sure everything was perpendicular.
I sanded the edges say they were completely flush:
I sanded smooth the inner edge where the driver sits:
Next, I dry fit the very top piece and clamped it down tight:
I marked the center so I could get the driver screws to be aligned with the center as well.
And also drew a straight edge to make sure when I reassemble that the two top pieces line up:
Insert the driver:
Predrill the holes for the driver through both top pieces. I used this rafter angle square to help make sure my holes were perpendicular to the top. A variable speed drill at a slow speed is all you need:
I used these two 1/4" bits. The one on the right allow me to find a perfect center to start with. So I just started with that bit, then switched to the other since it worked much better on the MDF:
Then I threaded the socket head cap screws just to ensure I had it right:
I made sure to mark the TOP since you could possibly rotate the piece and not get perfect alignment. I'd recommend marking South, East, West and North as well:
Here's a good way to remove the driver by sliding the top boards:
Here's my make shift stop for my 3/8" drill bit:
I drilled on the under side of square edged top piece again using the rafter angle square to make sure I was drilling straight and then only went in about a 1/2":
See - straight!
I then threaded some of the socket head cap screws to lock the two top pieces in place:
I the put on a little Titebond II wood glue on the Press In Wood Insert:
I cleaned out the bottom of the 3/8" holes:
Make sure the Press in Wood Insert is pointed in the right direction and put a 1/4" washer between the socket head cap screw and the mdf. Then slowly start turning. Try to keep the sharp edges of the insert away from the edge. I did notice the mdf pushing out a tiny bit.
When this did happen, I put some extra glue around where it pushed out:
Here's what it looks like when the inserts are completely done:
I caulked the inside corners:
Finish gluing the top square edged piece:
Glue the top and just watch out for the screw insert areas:
Start tightening all the socket head cap screws:
After drying, I marked the center area of the 3" hole for the speaker terminals. I debated going with the SpeakOns, but I really liked that I could get these tighter to the wall if I needed to:
Great way to get the terminal square with the edge of the speaker when the cabinet is actually finished:
Here are the inside terminal connections that I crimped on:
Next it was time to install the PolyFill using 3M Super 77 spray. I used about .75 lb per cu foot.
I rounded all the edges to 1/2" and sanded smooth down to 220 using an orbital sander. I used a 320 grit sanding sponge pad for the rounded edges.
Primed using BIN Zinnser:
I wasn't happy with the edges so I used some wood glue. I needed a new batch of MH Ready Patch otherwise I would have used that instead:
Sanded smooth in between 2-3 coats of primer:
Ready for spray paint:
Sprayed two coats of Rustoleum Flat Black all at once. It took 1 full can:
Then waited 30 minutes and inserted 1/4" dowels to plug the speaker screw holes from being filled in with the Bed Liner spray:
Then sprayed the 2 coats of Rustoleum bed liner spray - I put some foam on a 5 gallon bucket and set the cabinet on top of it. It took 1 full can:
I waited several hours and then flipped the cabinet to finish the bottom. I set it over the top of the 5 gallon bucket and grabbing the framing inside the cabinet and the 3" center hole:
The installed the speaker terminals with screws:
Filled .75 lbs of Polyfill per cubic foot so 3 lbs for this 4 cubic foot cabinet:
Placing the heavy driver onto the cabinet and lining up the holes was not difficult at all when I used one 1/4" dowel as my guide to set the driver over:
The finished product:
I'm really satisfied with the Rustoleum Spray Bed Liner product combined with the first two coats of Flat Black. It looks very similar to an older Sony subwoofer I have...although rougher. I called up Linex and they could have sprayed each one for $60 each. Unfortunately, I had already primed the cabinet, and they said I would have to wait 30 days for the primer to cure. I think I might have preferred to go the Linex route for simplicity and no mess. The spray mist got everywhere in the garage. The Linex spray would be tougher but probably not quite as attractive as the Rustoleum bed liner.
I'll be trying out the Behringer EP4000 to power both subs:Edited by mcascio - 11/6/13 at 6:26am