or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Home Entertainment & Theater Builder › Dedicated Theater Design & Construction › Advice, Help for first time PJ owner
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Advice, Help for first time PJ owner - Page 2

post #31 of 60
It is ultimately your decision but going DYI the difference in price of materials is not that much when going from 92 to say 110”. I would hate for you to build a 92” screen then which it were bigger. For the most part equipment is located either outside theaters or at the back of the rooms. All of these devices put out some sort of light competing with the image and heat that you have to contend with. I do understand the desire to leave your equipment where it is and not have to rewire the theater.
post #32 of 60
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

It is ultimately your decision but going DYI the difference in price of materials is not that much when going from 92 to say 110”. I would hate for you to build a 92” screen then which it were bigger. For the most part equipment is located either outside theaters or at the back of the rooms. All of these devices put out some sort of light competing with the image and heat that you have to contend with. I do understand the desire to leave your equipment where it is and not have to rewire the theater.

I'm not worrying about rewiring. That's simple. On each side of the room, I have space to hide wiring.

My main concern is trying to find a spot for components, that way I could just do a false wall and no looking back then. Get a screen 100-106 maybe bigger not sure.

I have about 3-4 foot to build a false wall. That would give me enough room to put the subs the way the are now, or turn them into the corners. Turning them into the corners will give me more output and the subs will only stick out 22 inches away from the wall.

As far as the components behind the wall, I'm thinking about possibly putting the behind the wall with fabric panels hiding them. I could essentially put all three speakers in front of the false wall. Do you guys know of any members with pics of their false walls with their components behind it?
Edited by nezff - 12/11/13 at 10:50am
post #33 of 60
Make use of some of that attic space and build a rack/shelving system into the side wall. Or put the components in the back of the room or out of the way someplace.

I guess I'm struggling to understand why you are struggling with the component placement so much. Build the false wall with as large of an AT screen as you can muster, move the components anywhere and re-cable everything.
post #34 of 60
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by walterappleby View Post

Make use of some of that attic space and build a rack/shelving system into the side wall. Or put the components in the back of the room or out of the way someplace.

I guess I'm struggling to understand why you are struggling with the component placement so much. Build the false wall with as large of an AT screen as you can muster, move the components anywhere and re-cable everything.
I guess I can understand why you aren't understanding. I like my room to look good and be functional. I'm not real sure how I can just throw everything in the back of the room where people walk in. I can't put it in front of any of the doors because you won't be able to open them.

I have thought about putting everything in one of the side walls but the roof slants down so I'm not sure I would be able to fit it all in there because some of my components are pretty deep.
post #35 of 60
Thread Starter 
Another quick question on a screen. Is there a set standard size on the black velvet frame for your screen?
I guess what I mean is could I build a DIY screen with smaller frame size?

The frame basically kills the light leak or what?
post #36 of 60
You can build a frameless screen and hang it on a black acoustically transparent fabric front wall. To answer your question most deluxe screen frames fall in the 3 to 3 1/2 inch wide range.

The black velvet frame improves perceived contrast and does make any over spill disappear. So does a black front wall.
post #37 of 60
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

You can build a frameless screen and hang it on a black acoustically transparent fabric front wall. To answer your question most deluxe screen frames fall in the 3 to 3 1/2 inch wide range.

The black velvet frame improves perceived contrast and does make any over spill disappear. So does a black front wall.

Quick question big.

Do you have any advice on a minimalist screen wall for these slanted ceilings?
post #38 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post

Quick question big.

Do you have any advice on a minimalist screen wall for these slanted ceilings?
try this one really good build thread from front to back
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/home-theater-design-construction/49767-mysticaljet-theater-2-0-a-3.html#post467171
post #39 of 60
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

try this one really good build thread from front to back
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/home-theater-design-construction/49767-mysticaljet-theater-2-0-a-3.html#post467171

awesome build. His walls don't slant up as much as mine because his celing is wider. He also has plenty of space for a component rack because his side walls are taller. My room is actually longer and wider than his though.
post #40 of 60
I like how he did the screen wall though it was a modified minimulast aproach.
post #41 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post

Quick question big.

Do you have any advice on a minimalist screen wall for these slanted ceilings?

You need an angle finder and a miter saw, then modify the tops just like the sample in the thread suggested.
post #42 of 60
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

You need an angle finder and a miter saw, then modify the tops just like the sample in the thread suggested.

have both.
post #43 of 60
Thread Starter 
left door AC closet



AC



AC closet looking out.


post #44 of 60
Thread Starter 
Got the new Panny 8000 replacement unboxed. Did a temp setup on a ladder and a 92 inch bedsheet.The Panny 8000 was roughly16'10-17 feet back from the sheet. Going by the calculator on a 92 inch screen, it stated I should mount it 9-18 feet back. I measured it from the ladder to the screen after I took everything down. Meant to ask, I ran Pacific Rim from my WD passport through my Sony S580, then to my Marantz 8801, then finally to the PJ. I noticed a somewhat soap opera effect or fake effect like when a certain setting is turned on. Is there a way to turn this off or is this just built in?
Sorry for the quality, snapped these real quick with the iPhone 5

Here are my results:



post #45 of 60
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

You need an angle finder and a miter saw, then modify the tops just like the sample in the thread suggested.

Got a question about the minimalist screen wall.

I planned on trying to incorporate my tv stand for keeping the components in. After putting up both side supports and cross piece, does the screen hang in front of the fabric panels or behind? Im trying to build the supports just outside the tv stand (81 inches wide) and building a fabric frame to cover it up. It would attach on the left and right minimalist supports. Not sure how low or high to hang the screen either.

Trying to describe this might be hard. Depending on what size screen I go with, the bigger screen, means wider. Wider means it will hang lower because of the slanted ceiling and the fact it will be longer. Im assuming this will dictate where I hang my crosspiece for the screen wall supports. I was planning to put the center channel speaker either in front of the screen wall on a stand or behind the AT screen on the tv stand. Im assuming I could just make a fabric panel tall enough to cover the speaker if the screen doesn't hang low enough, or vice versa?

thanks
post #46 of 60
Thread Starter 
Is there a recommended height to hang your screen off the floor?
post #47 of 60
when I build similar walls the panels sit even with the screen on the back side and surround the screen, As for screen height I think the rule of thumb for comfortable viewing is 1/3 of the image below eye level. So in most theater chairs that is 36 inches so based on the height of your screen you can run the numbers. In two row theaters the screen is often higher than that for the first row. Maybe the second if there is line of sight issues.
post #48 of 60
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

when I build similar walls the panels sit even with the screen on the back side and surround the screen, As for screen height I think the rule of thumb for comfortable viewing is 1/3 of the image below eye level. So in most theater chairs that is 36 inches so based on the height of your screen you can run the numbers. In two row theaters the screen is often higher than that for the first row. Maybe the second if there is line of sight issues.


My current thinking is:

build a false wall.
turn the subs into the corners giving me more room
move the front speakers out in front of the false wall closer to the side walls.
keep the tv stand removing doors etc.. and using black fabric frames that will also cover the rest of the false wall.
all my equipment can stay there and the remotes still work through the fabric
place the center on top of the tv stand bringing it UP and out of the stand giving me more dynamics. The screen will come down almost touching the tv stand and the center will hide behind the screen. Don't think the screen can hang that low

the fronts will be out next to the wall like in this pic



Subs facing in like in this picture


By turning the subs I can move the front speakers out more giving me room for a screen larger than 92 inches. More like 100-106 or so. I plan on trying to keep my components in the tv stand behind the false wall covered in fabric. I would move my center channel up on top of the tv stand either behind the screen or covered by a fabric panel. Im assuming it wont be covered up by the screen unless I hung it very low.

I test fitted a 110 screen today and it didn't even hang down to the tv stand. The bottom of the screen frame came exactly to where the black bezel separates the actual screen and plastic on the TV

I would rather keep the center below the screen because the frame of the screen might block it. Unless I raise the center up enough to fire through the AT screen. The TV stand would hold all my components (Blu-ray, Marantz, xpa5, Xbox one, ps4).

Still trying to understand how to build a false wall and fabric panels. Ive seen so many screen walls but not many like my room. Im thinking Im going to have to strip out the whole side walls, and ceiling with 1x4s for panels to attach to?
Edited by nezff - 12/17/13 at 7:18pm
post #49 of 60
Thread Starter 
Anyone
post #50 of 60
If I were putting up a screen wall in that room with only one row of seating I would put it all the way to the floor, maximize my screen width and put the center speaker, and possibly the FL and FR behind the screen.
post #51 of 60
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by walterappleby View Post

If I were putting up a screen wall in that room with only one row of seating I would put it all the way to the floor, maximize my screen width and put the center speaker, and possibly the FL and FR behind the screen.

Tv stand is 18" tall. The center channel would sit on it. My concern of covering the center up with the screen is that the bottom screen frame might get in the way of the center. I guess I could always lift it up a tad higher to clear the frame.

I have even thought about using one of my three empty floor standing cabinets left over. I could take out guts of the center channels and put them into a floor standing cabinet like the rest of the speakers.
Edited by nezff - 12/22/13 at 8:53pm
post #52 of 60
Thread Starter 
Is there any good mounts I need to look into too? I noticed miss man mentioned the peerless ceiling plate and chief rpa181 mount for the panny 8000
post #53 of 60
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Jamestown screens take up several of your valuable inches with a black border.

After talking with James, He stated he could do a two inch frame for me. The thing is, I feel pretty positive I could build my own frame using my kreg jig and putting the Seymour XD material on. Do you staple the screen on, or is there a more desirable way to go about this?
post #54 of 60
Thread Starter 
Here is a very quick mockup done in paint. forgive me.

The center channel will actually be behind the screen OR on a stand out in front and lower than the screen.

alt
post #55 of 60
Couple of different ways that folks use.

Some folks request Seymour to add O-rings to the material and then use grommets to attach the material to the frame with small screw heads sticking out so that the grommet fits over it.

Another method is to use screen track and spline available in HD or Lowes. This is the method I employed on my curved screen build which you can see here.

Finally you can get an electric staple gun and simply staple the material to the back of the frame. The way I've seen it done is to stretch the material over the front of the frame, to create the best rigidity and tension.

When stapling or using spline you want to go in a certain order to stretch the material properly. You would start at the middle top, the middle bottom then middle sides and so on until you get all around. When I did the spline technique I cut short pieces to secure the screen in place and then removed them as I went around with the full length.


Good luck
post #56 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post

Here is a very quick mockup done in paint. forgive me.

The center channel will actually be behind the screen OR on a stand out in front and lower than the screen.

alt

I would put the center behind the screen and go with scope.

I also saw your post above how to build fabric frames and attach false wall frames. Fairly simple way is the minimalist approach. Thread started by big here.

Once you build and place screen, you simply build frames you can friction fit all around.

I like using pvc lumber for the frames because it has some flexibility which I needed for my curved wall, but it's easy to use and allows for a little better manipulation to get that just right fit around the wall and ceiling. You can see I did mine here.
Edited by oman321 - 12/24/13 at 8:37am
post #57 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Couple of different ways that folks use.

Some folks request Seymour to add O-rings to the material and then use grommets to attach the material to the frame with small screw heads sticking out so that the grommet fits over it.
This is what I did
post #58 of 60
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

This is what I did

quick question on your screen. Are you going to have a black frame around it or you were going the frameless route? Im assuming the black frame is there to just "suck" up any light spillage.
post #59 of 60
I am doing the minimalist wall where you make panels out of 2x2 lumber and cover in black velvet. I have not decided if I am doing panels on the sides or curtains yet. with the AE-800 the light spillage is not distracting in a totally light controlled room.
post #60 of 60
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

I would put the center behind the screen and go with scope.

I also saw your post above how to build fabric frames and attach false wall frames. Fairly simple way is the minimalist approach. Thread started by big here.

Once you build and place screen, you simply build frames you can friction fit all around.

I like using pvc lumber for the frames because it has some flexibility which I needed for my curved wall, but it's easy to use and allows for a little better manipulation to get that just right fit around the wall and ceiling. You can see I did mine here.
I am putting the center behind the screen. That picture was just my idea of screen wall but the center is behind it just not in the picture.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Home Entertainment & Theater Builder › Dedicated Theater Design & Construction › Advice, Help for first time PJ owner