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Official JVC DILA-X500R / RS49U / RS4910U Owners Thread - Page 8

post #211 of 1272

I am planning the install for this projector.  I need every last bit of lumen output as I have a small amount of ambient light in my living room (from A/V equipment).  Would it benefit me to shelf mount this PJ?  I already have a universal ceiling mount on the wall, which I was using as a flush mount.  Mount is 15.5 feet from 102" Grayhawk G3

post #212 of 1272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailor Bill View Post

Mark,

You are correct in that my screen had a slight bow in it. It was approximately 5/16". I found some sort of adjustment on the projector that straightened it out but I had to use the entire range. I probably accepted this over time with the old projector and it didn't have the green lines to focus on so it was probably there and I didn't know it. Now if I can figure out why the HDMI2 doesn't work and why my old Oppo wouldn't work, I can rest easy. I am concerned with putting more than four hours on the lamp if I indeed have any unresolvable problems. Thanks for your input.


Never use keystone correction or anything like that in your projector. Its a scaling correction and will really significantly degrade the image. Please fix it at the screen. Its really easy. I could do it in 15 minutes or less.
post #213 of 1272
Quote:
Originally Posted by seanbryan View Post

Bill, the adjustment in the projector that straightened out your problem... was it the keystone adjustment?

Just FYI, it is highly recommended to avoid using the keystone adjustment as the scaling involved degrades image quality.

I'd recommend taking Mark's advice about shimming out the screen and correcting the issue at the screen as opposed to digitally. That should give you a better end result.

Sean,

I used the pincushion adjustment. My screen is a Parkland polywall that has no frame therefore the bow in the wall is reflected in the screen. I am planning on a new screen of constant height taking advantage of the lens memory feature. The new screen will probably be 6mm Sintra and I will shim it to be in plane and parallel to the lens.

As another note of interest, I got the Oppo to work by changing it's output resolution. I also got the HDMI2 to work by disconnecting the projector for a few minutes.

Thanks for the input.
post #214 of 1272
The truth is, long before my projector gets to 300,000:1, it is limited by reflections in the room. While the iris is nice, you'd really have to have a batcave to see more than a slight difference. I'm trying to talk my wife into darker ceilings, which is the only limitation.
post #215 of 1272
I think the Sony s790 must be showing 0-256 as my Panasonic VT30 is hooked up to the other HDMI and it's showing the full pattern. I'm not sure how you're able to accurately set your brightness level without seeing below black, otherwise, you could be crushing black details and never know it.
post #216 of 1272
Our HT is a medium dark plum color. My wife says if we ever paint it again it will be a very dark (Almost black) charcoal. cool.gif
post #217 of 1272
My room is totally black, it is a black hole. Can't wait to run the X500 in it.
post #218 of 1272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cine4Home View Post

Yes, we checked about half a dozen. Here are the preliminary results:
(All measured with minimum throw distance and Iris open)


- Maximum brightness : Between 1200 and 1300 lumens , 1240 lumens average

- Brightness calibrated : Between 940 and 1100 lumens , 1050 lumens average

- Eco mode : Approx -30 %

- Contrast native / calibrated : Between 26,000:1 and 30,000:1 , 27,500:1 average

- Contrast Dynamic: Factor of 13 , between 300,000:1 and 400,000:1

- Gamma: Perfect factory Gamma of 2.2 for all devices. Shadow Detail could use a bit calibration.

- Color temperature : Good presets, can be optimized a bit further

- Color space : Best preset is "Custom 1 " BUT : Not all X500 can be calibrated perfectly in green.
Some have a yellow cast in green, which you can not fully correct using the CMS:





Some X500 have this green-problem, others not. So you need to be lucky.

Regards,
Ekki

Ekki - Do you have any plans to review a X700 or 900 anytime soon?

Thanks!
post #219 of 1272
Got around to calibrating my 4910.

14 hours on the lamp, manual iris at -15, DI off, Natural Picture mode, Standard Color profile, normal gamma, 7000k color temp. Didn't do readings on Cinema, etc because after fighting my RS40 for a couple hundred hours, I didn't have the interest. Standard color profile did give a bit better grayscale and color profile than Natural.

Equipment I have is: i1 D3 Pro meter, Chromapure Standard with advanced auto calibrate ad-on and a Radiance Mini 3D. Grayscale was so close out of the box, I didn't bother to use the projector controls to adjust 30 and 80 IRE. Did full 125 point color correction. Largest DE was 1.6. Most were under 1.0.

Even with the manual iris at -15 it is still too bright in some cases...but I'm not complaining. smile.gif



post #220 of 1272
are you familiar with the advanced color manager controls in chromapure? specifically the saturation tracking. If not let me know and I'll give you brief instructions, it would be nice to see a saturation chart on the 4910. thx!
post #221 of 1272
On/off contrast isn't affected by room reflections. Ansi/inter-image contrast is. The 100 ire image will be 300,000 times brighter than 0 ire image whether you have a batcave or have lighter colored walls, as long as there is no ambient light.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pottscb View Post

The truth is, long before my projector gets to 300,000:1, it is limited by reflections in the room. While the iris is nice, you'd really have to have a batcave to see more than a slight difference. I'm trying to talk my wife into darker ceilings, which is the only limitation.
post #222 of 1272
Great to hear that the DI is effective, and that it's bright.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxfj View Post

DI appears to work quite well. The only time I have been able to see it working is on fast fades to black. You'll see the picture fade out and then there is some residual light on the screen.. at that point you can see the DI clamp down.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwa View Post

It definitely works. During the scene in Oblivion where Jack and Victoria are in the pool, you could definitely see the iris working very quickly (looking at the projector and watching the iris move, not at the screen). It wasn't obvious that the iris was working while actually viewing the picture though.

*EDIT* - When I say "it wasn't obvious that the iris was working," what I mean is that the iris wasn't drawing attention to itself. The picture looked rich and dark, but there was no obvious pumping or other artifacts.
post #223 of 1272
Just wanted to express my sympathy to all of you early adopters. I'm sure in the end it will all be cleared by JVC but still they really dropped the ball IMHO .

I was about to pull the trigger based on the attractive pre order price and ship it from the US to Europe.

Boy that would have been interesting.

I'm glad I held out and will now see how CES next week plays out (and jvc's remedy)before committing .

Lastly thanks for all your time and sharing of wisdom. I'm sure there are more like me that follow all the JVC threads and have shared the anticipation of the arrival, patiently wait for the reports to chime in and sympathies with the frustration and if not nothing else all the unnecessary on/off lamp hit to your brand new toys.

Hope you can finally sit back and enjoy the magic soon enough.
post #224 of 1272
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsmith808 View Post

On/off contrast isn't affected by room reflections. Ansi/inter-image contrast is. The 100 ire image will be 300,000 times brighter than 0 ire image whether you have a batcave or have lighter colored walls, as long as there is no ambient light.

That's true, but reflecting light and the color of the walls affects the perceived contrast of our vision and the way our internal IRIS works in our own eyes. So perceptibly, darker walls are better for both on/off and ANSI. Any reflecting light is caught by our eyes and affects the eye directly as well as our interpretation of contrast, and the speed at which our eyes can adjust.
post #225 of 1272
Any of you other other CIH users notice that the zoom is faster this year on the X500 over the X55? I'm happy about that. I haven't had any more HDMI issues, which has allowed me to put 10+ hours on the lamp and everything seems to be working great. I did have a brief hiccup when attempting to view some 3D for the first time as the image frames were messed up, but I think that was attributed to plugging the 3D emitter while the unit was running. I'm not a big 3D fan, but decided to grab a pair of glasses this time around.

I wish I had some calibration gear, but for now I've just run the AVS HD 709 disc and Spears & Munsil disc tweaking user preset 1, cinema color, default gamma, etc. If any of you power calibrators have some recommendations on basic settings that are pretty accurate for a starting point to hold some of us over until a full calibration I would appreciate you sharing via post or Private a Message. I may also consider buying the gear to do it myself down the road--any recommendations?

BTW, has anyone been able to find an updated version of the DILA software for iOS phones and tablets? The current app on the JVC site and App Store aren't compatible...
post #226 of 1272
Quote:
Originally Posted by pottscb View Post

I think the Sony s790 must be showing 0-256 as my Panasonic VT30 is hooked up to the other HDMI and it's showing the full pattern. I'm not sure how you're able to accurately set your brightness level without seeing below black, otherwise, you could be crushing black details and never know it.

Please re-read my other posts. You are misunderstanding how to set brightness.

You have to set brightness so that black (level 16 for video content) is black and level 17 (which is just above black) just barely shows.

Not seeing blacker than black doesn't mean that you are crushing black details. There are no black details that should be visible below black. You are crushing black details if levels 17 and above show black instead of just above black.

So you do not need to show blacker than black to set brightness properly. You simply adjust brightness until level 17 just shows. Another way to do it is to show a black pattern, and lower brightness until it doesn't seem to produce any change. Then you go up one click at a time, until it starts showing a change and the black floor is raised, and then one click back down. It's better not to resolve 17 than to raise your black floor. There are also controls in the JVC which allow you to adjust brightness with more granularity if brightness forces you to slightly crush black or raise the black floor (I think they are called black level, I never had to use them so I forgot about them).

If your S790 is set to display 0-255 (which isn't necessary unless it crushes blacks or whites in standard mode), you need to adjust brightness to something like -7 and contrast so something around +7 (if you want to resolve all the way up to 255, as per THX generic recommendation, but unless you have a lot of brightness to spare you are really hurting the peak brightness of the PJ as well as its on/off contrast, so I would suggest resolving up to 240 which should be a round +10 or even going down to 235 which should be around +14 )for the contrast setting).

You need to read more on the subject if this is still not clear for you. Being able to see blacker than black is not necessary to adjust brightness in such a way that it doesn't crush blacks. If you are in standard mode, you won't see blacker than black, and as long as you can resolve level 17 or 18 it's not an issue at all.
Edited by Manni01 - 12/29/13 at 3:17am
post #227 of 1272
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

That's true, but reflecting light and the color of the walls affects the perceived contrast of our vision and the way our internal IRIS works in our own eyes. So perceptibly, darker walls are better for both on/off and ANSI. Any reflecting light is caught by our eyes and affects the eye directly as well as our interpretation of contrast, and the speed at which our eyes can adjust.


So it was't a complete waste of money and time to hang triple velvet in my room?biggrin.gif
post #228 of 1272
Has anybody confirmed if there are 5 or 10 lens memories?
post #229 of 1272
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post

Has anybody confirmed if there are 5 or 10 lens memories?

There are 5 lens memories on the X500/49/4910. So far they seem pretty accurate once set--I've zoomed back and forth probably 40 times so far between 16:9 and 2.35 and 2.40 material on my X500. We'll see if they need minor tweaking over time like the prior gen (which was never a big deal for me). BTW, I always reset/center the lens in the menu before shifting and zooming to save a new preset--that seemed to promote better accuracy on my old X55.
post #230 of 1272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post

You need to select HDMI enhanced (both standard and superwhite do no show BtB). However, why would you want to see BtB with standard video sources? As long as black is black and 17 just shows, you're good to go smile.gif. There is nothing (useful) to be seen below black. THX forces superwhite, so you have to avoid that mode to show BtB, but not an issue on 4910.
Of course, it's different if you're showing full RGB from a PC, but in that case make sure the source is sending Full RGB as well and the AVR is not clipping either.

Got it, its displaying BtB now which makes it much easier to set the brightness, correctly.
post #231 of 1272
Well, I unfortunately just got my first HDMI-related lockup where I had to pull the plug on the projector. It happened when switching resolutions from 1080p60 to 1080p24. I experienced the same symptoms as described elsewhere: the screen went blank when I switched resolutions, but when I disconnected the source the last frame of the source's output appeared onscreen. Switching back to the original resolution (1080p60) worked, but as soon as I switched back to the 1080p24, the screen went black until I pulled the plug. I'll do a factory reset as described above (I haven't calibrated yet) to see if that resolves the issue temporarily.

Hopefully this can be fixed easily with a firmware update...
post #232 of 1272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwa View Post

Well, I unfortunately just got my first HDMI-related lockup where I had to pull the plug on the projector. It happened when switching resolutions from 1080p60 to 1080p24. I experienced the same symptoms as described elsewhere: the screen went blank when I switched resolutions, but when I disconnected the source the last frame of the source's output appeared onscreen. Switching back to the original resolution (1080p60) worked, but as soon as I switched back to the 1080p24, the screen went black until I pulled the plug. I'll do a factory reset as described above (I haven't calibrated yet) to see if that resolves the issue temporarily.

Hopefully this can be fixed easily with a firmware update...

What is the factory reset?
post #233 of 1272
Quote:
Originally Posted by mntwister View Post

What is the factory reset?
See post #207.
post #234 of 1272
Hi Guys,

I received my JVC X500R today and am having a hard time with finding a ceiling mount that fits.

I ordered this monoprice mount in advance but it doesn't fit:

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=109&cp_id=10911&cs_id=1091102&p_id=3010&seq=1&format=2

I then went to BestBuy and picked up this mount but it doesn't fit either:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/universal-ceiling-mount-for-front-projectors/7119646.p;jsessionid=1EA21C85BC5B87CC37A248439C8BF1AA.bbolsp-app01-126?id=1109233829974&skuId=7119646&st=projector%20mount&cp=1&lp=2

Seems like universal mounts are do not have long enough arms to reach the four screws which are in the corners (by removing legs).

What are you guys using?
post #235 of 1272
Quote:
Originally Posted by logicators View Post

Hi Guys,

I received my JVC X500R today and am having a hard time with finding a ceiling mount that fits.

I ordered this monoprice mount in advance but it doesn't fit:

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=109&cp_id=10911&cs_id=1091102&p_id=3010&seq=1&format=2

I then went to BestBuy and picked up this mount but it doesn't fit either:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/universal-ceiling-mount-for-front-projectors/7119646.p;jsessionid=1EA21C85BC5B87CC37A248439C8BF1AA.bbolsp-app01-126?id=1109233829974&skuId=7119646&st=projector%20mount&cp=1&lp=2

Seems like universal mounts are do not have long enough arms to reach the four screws which are in the corners (by removing legs).

What are you guys using?
I use this mount and it works great (the arms are the perfect length); the only thing is that you'll have to run to Home Depot or Lowe's to get some longer M5 screws since the ones included with the mount aren't long enough. AVS sells a Chief mount that has a custom mount plate that lots of folks swear by if you don't like the spider look, but with the Peerless mount I linked to, the spider fits so well it practically looks custom.
post #236 of 1272
Quote:
Originally Posted by krichter1 View Post

Ekki - Do you have any plans to review a X700 or 900 anytime soon?

Thanks!


Yes, actually we already measured and checked two X700 today.

And we did encounter and can confirm major HDMI-handshake problems. Same symptoms like already described (black screen / frozen Picture / only quarter Screen used and so on).
Only solution was to turn it of and pull the power. Afterwards it worked again.

Not good at all..

Regards,
Ekki
post #237 of 1272
Ekki, when you have enough data it would be nice if you could comment on whether it's true that, as has been speculated, the DI reduces the benefit of the 700/900 higher native CR if used with the static iris in the open position for maximum brightness.

Did any of the 49's have the HDMI handshake problem?
post #238 of 1272
I use a Chief RPMA281 elite mount like can be found here http://www.chiefmfg.com/Products/RPMA281.

They cost a bit more but are really solid, low profile, and can be configured with different mounting plates and extension columns. I think they are worth the premium price over some of the cheaper universal style options that made me less confident about holding a 33 pound projector over my head. smile.gif
post #239 of 1272
Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

Ekki, when you have enough data it would be nice if you could comment on whether it's true that, as has been speculated, the DI reduces the benefit of the 700/900 higher native CR if used with the static iris in the open position for maximum brightness.

Did any of the 49's have the HDMI handshake problem?


Well, the dynamic contrast ist about the same with the X700 (around 300,000:1). So measurement wise, the X700 does not show any benefit.

However in dark movie-scenes, where the DI closes, the native contrast increases more with a X700 than with a X500.

If you use the static Iris and open it, there never was much of a benefit of a DLA-X7(x) model over a DLA-X3(x) or DLA-X55 model anyway. (30k:1 vs. 25k:1)
That is nothing new or exclusive to the new X-series.


Regards,
Ekki
Edited by Cine4Home - 12/30/13 at 4:59pm
post #240 of 1272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cine4Home View Post

Well, the dynamic contrast ist about the same with the X700 (around 300,000:1). So measurement wise, the X700 does not show any benefit.

However in dark movie-scenes, where the DI closes, the native contrast increases more with a X700 than with a X500.

If you use the static Iris and open it, there never was much of a benefit of a DLA-X7(x) model over a DLA-X3(x) or DLA-X55 model anyway. That is nothing new or exclusive to the new X-series.


Regards,
Ekki

In your official review, could you please go into detail on how well you think the DI performs in comparison to Sony's DI implementation? I'm really looking forward to reading it. I may have to upgrade my X90 to a 2014 model if you think they're worth it. The only DI I've ever truly loved was on my Planar PD8150. I haven't owned a Sony, but I did have a 5 hour demo of a HW50ES and liked what I saw with the DI. It was invisible, just like on the PD8150. I'm hoping the same thing with JVC's implementation. From a few reports I've read so far it seems that JVC's implementation is very good, but how close does it actually perform in comparison to Sony and Planar?


Thanks for all your hard work!
Edited by Seegs108 - 12/30/13 at 5:04pm
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