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help me find an amp for my sub

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
Wasn't sure rater to post this here or the amp thread as it relates to both.
I just bought a Dayton 15 ultimax from PE and cab. I also bought a behringer inuke 1000 amp thinking it would nicely power the sub and now I am thinking that was a mistake as the sub seems to be lacking the kick for my HT I was looking for.
Plus the behringer nu1000 doesn't have the dc power switch that activates with the avr power. I have to manually turn it off and on. I'm going to send the nu1000 back.
My question then is what amp should I purchase for my 15 ultimax sub?
Edited by Thundersnow - 12/13/13 at 2:16am
post #2 of 11
First you need to decide how much power you require to achieve the required loudness. That depends on the sub alignment (sealed/ported/bandpass) and box size among many other things. You need to post in DIY section. iNuke NU1000DSP is one hec of a ballsy value amp. However, I would get minimum NU3000DSP to future proof myself.
Quote:
I also bought a behringer inuke 1000 amp thinking it would nicely power the sub and now I am thinking that was a mistake as the sub seems to be lacking the kick for my HT I was looking for.

You need to gain match your CE gear (AVR) with the pro gear (iNuke) in order for it to perform at its best.
post #3 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by braveheart123 View Post

You need to gain match your CE gear (AVR) with the pro gear (iNuke) in order for it to perform at its best.
+1. Pro gear generally requires a +4 dB signal for full output. Consumer AVRs typically only provide a -10dB signal.
Quote:
My question then is what amp should I purchase for my 15 ultimax sub?
A plate amp.
post #4 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post


+1. Pro gear generally requires a +4 dB signal for full output. Consumer AVRs typically only provide a -10dB signal.
A plate amp.

Is a plate amp really the best route? I hate the idea of cutting a hole in the sub box now that it's built.

post #5 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thundersnow View Post

Is a plate amp really the best route? I hate the idea of cutting a hole in the sub box now that it's built.
You asked for an amp that operates at consumer input level and has auto turn on/off. That pretty much means a plate amp. I wouldn't put it in the speaker, that's the worst place for an amp. Make a box for it, put it as close as possible to your AVR.
post #6 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post


You asked for an amp that operates at consumer input level and has auto turn on/off. That pretty much means a plate amp. I wouldn't put it in the speaker, that's the worst place for an amp. Make a box for it, put it as close as possible to your AVR.

 

I was wondering if it would be acceptable to place them in a separate housing... Cool!

 

Seems strange that there aren't consumer amps that come in a case for rack mounting with all the features of a plate amp... am I missing something?

post #7 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thundersnow View Post

Seems strange that there aren't consumer amps that come in a case for rack mounting with all the features of a plate amp... am I missing something?
Lack of demand. Consumers tend to stick with what's familiar, and on-board amplification is what's familiar, even if it's the wrong place to put an amp due to the ground loop problems that it causes.
post #8 of 11
Quote:
Is a plate amp really the best route?

It is not the best route but one of the better routes. It's kind of plug n play thing.

OTH, you can have huge watts at reasonable price if you go with pro amps. Almost all AVRs have enough pre-out voltage to drive those amps to full potential but you need to gain match them first.

Choice is yours.
post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 

I'm going to try getting this inuke 1000 working for my setup then if still not satisfied I will look into something else.

 

I found while reading another thread that I don't have the speakon connectors wired correctly for running the amp in bridge mode so maybe I am not getting all the power that's available.

 

Thanks for all the help

post #10 of 11
Thread Starter 

Got the inuke 1000 wired correctly and now the output seems to be on par with what should be expected from 800 watts.

 

Although I am still thinking about going with something bigger.

post #11 of 11
NU1000 is a good sub, but you need at least NU3000 or similar to future proof yourself.
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