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Theater Possible/worth it?

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 

I have been doing a lot of research and thinking about starting a home theater room in the basement. However, i am not sure if i will have enough space to accomplish what i am seeking. The basement room is aprox 12x12. Which i think would be a good size if there were not obstacles in the way. The first obstacle is a sump pump. I was thinking that i could build a use 2x6s or 2x8s to build a raiser the width of the room. The raiser would be used for 4 theater seats. I think this would be very do able as i have seen a few threads already dedicated to dealing with sump pumps. However, this room also has rough in plumbing for a bathroom. This is where my design has come to a halt as to how to build/remove the plumbing to make the room large enough for a projector room. Is it possible to cut the pipes down and carpet over them? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Here is a quick layout of what i think the room could be.


Edited by benzjas - 12/14/13 at 9:06pm
post #2 of 10
Where is the bath rough-in in relation to your plan? I'd consider flipping the room 180* so the screen is on the "right" wall. You could conceal the sump pit in a stage instead. Front soundstage will be difficult with the opening to the right of your right front speaker.

I'd install a sleeper floor in the whole space (2x4's laid flat, with plywood decking) to cover the toilet flange. On the other pipes, cut them off at 1.5" above the floor and plug them. That way if someone ever wanted to install the bath the plumbing would still be accessible. If you are sure no one would want the bath someday, you could break out the concrete to expose the pipes better and cut them off below floor level. You'd have to cap them before you patch up the concrete.
post #3 of 10
Yes, you should be able to remove the rough-in plumbing. I would hire a plumber to come out and take a look and either tell you what you need to do yourself or just pay them to do it (the plumber would be able to ensure that this rough-in is not vented to anything else and that by capping it, it would cause issues).

Even in a 12x12 room I would wire for a projector in the ceiling, you could probably fit a nice 90-100" diagonal screen in there and there are some great sub $1K projectors that would work well. You could also do an acoustically transparent screen with in-wall speakers behind them to save room and have a clean look.

Just some thoughts.
post #4 of 10
Your layout reminds me of this even smaller build.:


How tall is the basement? If you have decent height, you could raise the whole floor, to be at one level.

The sump pump could be given a hatch cover for access while the piping be re-plumbed to swing over.
Then the whole raised floor could be treated as a full range bass absorber. You could even build
the raised floor as two separate structures so you could have an invisible sand filled front stage for your speakers
to sit upon. If the stairs are basic builder grade basement stairs, you could create a landing at the first step height,
and use this as floor level for the theater, if you could give up 7.5 to 8.5" in height in the theater. This could also let you
move the doorway further from the screen wall and maybe create some speaker space at the entry. And a door would give
you a symmetrical side wall.

What's that white cap on the bath tub overflow pipe?

I think you have a very workable space. The choice of projector and it's throw distance is what you need to be careful with.

Benzjas.JPG 63k .JPG file
Edited by Tedd - 12/15/13 at 2:32pm
post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
Thank you for the ideas. The basement is 8 feet tall. However, there is some duct work on the walk by the stairs that would have to be framed around lowering the ceiling a little over 7 feet. I was originally thinking of flopping the room. I do have a window on opposite side, would that be a problem having a projector screen over the window?

As far as screen size i think the biggest screen i would be comfortable with is a 92" screen in this small space. I will be using my kef q500s for front speakers and was thinking of going in-wall for surrounds. For projector i was thinking epson 2030 or benq 1070.

As for the white cap on the bath tub drain, i am not sure what it is as i am very clueless to when it comes to plumbing.

I would like to put a door on the room would this give the front right speakers a better boundary?

Here is a sketch of where everything is.
post #6 of 10
Can you give us a close up, of that white cap. It might be an air admittance valve but I would have to wonder if so, why is it even there?

What kind of ductwork by the stair wall? I would be tempted to soffit the perimeter of the room anyways.

A 52x92"/54x96" screen would be ok to allow for speaker placement.

My room has soffits on every wall, at 80" Some are hide HVAC and some of there to create symmetry and they add some interest to the room.
MY entry door is cut down 4" to fit under a main support beam. 7'1" tall room.

A window behind a screen will be visible. You could create a window plug for the window which I'd recommend in either case.
post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
I do have a support beam at the entrance that is around 7 feet tall. I was thinking about doing a soffit around HVAC duct work. Do you think a U shape softit would work well? I was thinking that i could make an opening in the soffit on the back wall that would fit the projector. That way it would be somewhat hidden and possibly help with projector sound as it will be directly over the seating positions. I did take a picture of the white cap. It say it is a vent. I am not sure what that means?

Is there any free 3d software out there to download?
post #8 of 10
That is an air admitance valve and permits a drain without a vent line going up through the roof. Without it water in P-traps could be sucked dry and your drains could flow really slow. Now whether you need it if you aren't connecting the rough in plumbing is probably best assessed by a plumber/contractor. It is possible it was placed there to placate an inspector who needed to sign off on the rough in plumbing, If there is not going to be a bathroom there is a good chance that you can cap it. BUT there may be other fixures connected to the drain stack nearby that also rely on the valve. Therefore you need an experienced eye.
post #9 of 10
Free 3D software would be Google SketchUp.

Worse case is the air admittance valve could be accommodated in wall, by a backer box and a some sort of
vented removable grill over it. It's very likely that valve does exist to placate an inspector due to the cost cutting
of running a vent line.
post #10 of 10
Thread Starter 
Thank you all for your help thus far and getting my planning started for this project. I have been playing around with sketchup and have come up with some designs. I will post one of them to see what you guys thought and what suggestions you would propose me to change.

Right now i am running into an issue. I really like having the two speaker towers in which they will be framed out and wrapped in AT material. In the cabinets will be my kef Q500 speakers. I was also thinking of building the lower portion of the cabinet to fit a svs sb12 in each one. The subwoofer would have to be placed so the woofers would be facing each other, horizontal to the screen. Would this work?

The next issue i am running across is what to do with my center channel speaker. I have a kef 200c that i would like to use. I do not think my room has enough depth for me to build complete false wall to place the speaker behind the screen and give me enough viewing room for a 92" screen. I could place it in the soffit above the screen or make stand for it on the stage below the screen. Or remove the stage completely and block of the whole bottom portion below the screen the same depth as the LR towers. As always any suggestions would be great.


I am not sure the best way to post sketchup files so this is the best i have an the moment
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