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Official JVC DLA-X700R / RS57U Owners Thread - Page 5

post #121 of 1630
That did the trick Dennis thanks!

We still need this reported to JVC please.

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post #122 of 1630
Yeah I did the power cycle routine a couple times with all the equipment. Then tried disconnecting the power cable and HDMI for a little while and turning back on. This did not solve the problem. The second time I did this however it did work.

I was able to get the ps3 and ps4 and Xbox 1 home screens up. Was also able to get Battlefield 4 to run on the PS4 as well as Netflix (on both the PS4 /Xbox 1). The issue occurred when I'd try to turn on a blu ray, tries blu rays in the ps3, ps4 and the Xbox 1. All 3 had the same issue. Same issue when plugged the HDMI cable str8 to the ps3 and Ps4 to the Jvc.

I hooked up my rs46 again and it worked perfectly fine with no setting changes in the ps3/ps4/denon processor.

It think it's safe to say the Jvc rs57 is the culprit.

Does unplugging the Jvc for 5 minutes default all the settings back to factory default?
Edited by sk576c - 12/27/13 at 1:11pm
post #123 of 1630
I am running my first Chromapure Auto-Calibrate with my Lumagen 2021 while I am writing this. I found the THX picture mode to be the best starting point (Natural was 2nd). all the other picture modes had significant blue under-saturation. Blue was a little under-saturated with THX (-5%), but with a Color setting of 7, the pre-calibration luminance looked pretty good.
post #124 of 1630
Dennis, when looking at the color modes, are you looking at full saturation tracking or just a 6 point @ 100%? Any decent, default gamma settings that track well @ 2.2?

This is the first thing I want to look at later tonight. thanks!
post #125 of 1630
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Dennis, when looking at the color modes, are you looking at full saturation tracking or just a 6 point @ 100%? Any decent, default gamma settings that track well @ 2.2?

This is the first thing I want to look at later tonight. thanks!

i'll be the first to admit that I am a novice at calibration. I just got the lumagen as previously I used a VideoEQ. I have been using Chromapure. Any help would be appreciated.

Natural had the best gamma curve, averaging about 2.23 (I am in the middle of an auto-cal process so I can't access the file. However, looking at the 6 color luminance, the blue was 12.9% undersaturated. THX gamma was just above 2.4, but there was very little undersaturation (-1.6% was the worst). the deltaE's were fairly close. After I finish this auto-cal program, maybe I should run the auto-cal using the Natural picture mode.

Suggestions would be welcomed.
post #126 of 1630
Quote:
Originally Posted by sk576c View Post

I did power cycle the projector again and unplug the HDMI and power cables for a few moments and then tried it again and Wolllla everything is working now! I was about to go into Hulk rage mode when the wife suggested that I try it again, it being the power cycle and unplugging the unit. While it seems to be working at the moment I'm still rather concerned with the fact that I had this problem in the first place and I'm wondering if something is wrong with JVC software / HDMI. I too was seeing the last image frozen on the Jvc when turning of my input sources.

Are you getting entire screen flashes of various colors as well? I was getting a lot of solid images of nothing but magenta.

Yeah it's still happening and is a major bug in the firmware but I've spent hours trying to replicate it (I do software analysis & debugging for a living but didn't expect to be working this week!), changing the JVC settings and retrying but each time requiring an unplug of power to reset (and someone asked earlier… it does NOT wipe out your settings already saved).

I think what I've narrowed it down to is a resolution switching problem, I think between 1080/60 & 1080/24 (not sure if 24p plays a role yet). After the first power reset I was able to switch between DirecTV and my 3 Sony BD changers in my rack; no problem. However once I went to go load the AVS709 disc, probably outputting 1080p/24 (my Sony changer menu for selecting discs is set at 60i I believe), the screen goes blank and no JVC menus or anything are allowed until I switch back to that original resolution.

Once I unplugged and waited about a minute I powered back on and viola!… 1080p/24. However once I brought up the Sony menu or tried switching to DirecTV… blank screen of death again (rack'n, frack'n, mother… father #%!7&!!)

SO.. since I have a Lumagen is there a way I can as a workaround hard rez output to say 1080p/24? I have it set right now at Auto (which is what I had on my RS55).

Damn… 4th gen and this is what we have to go thru!? Daddy ain't got time for this! eek.gifrolleyes.gif

Thanks!
Edited by krichter1 - 12/28/13 at 9:42am
post #127 of 1630
Jason - When you do your stuff tonight can you set you Lumagen to Auto and use a few different output device Rez's to see if you get the same results?? Thx!
post #128 of 1630
Kevin, man that sucks about the bugs. And you're right, for 4th gen, not cool!

You've probably been too busy bug-chasing, but just in case: did you play with the Clear Black settings yet?
post #129 of 1630
Parhaps I'm the only one that does this but when I have to power cycle a projector I let it cool down for 15 ish mins before turning the projector back on, so that it can properly cool down.

So is this firmware issue (the video dropping) something that Jvc can fox via software update and not requiring owners to send the units back in?

Should we be unplugging the projector each time we power down the projector so that next time we use it we don't have an issue?
post #130 of 1630
No I haven't Rich but I set the Mini to output a hard 1080p/24 and so far so good (although as everyone knows setting DirecTV video like sports to 24p looks about as good as the landlord bedded by Woody Harrelson in Kingpin!)



Also I am noticing a small whiney motor sound (mechanical in nature of course), whenever a resolution change occurs (but only while it does it… maybe something with e-shift 4K??). Can anyone else confirm? Never heard anything like it and certainly not on my RS55.
post #131 of 1630
Quote:
Originally Posted by sk576c View Post

Parhaps I'm the only one that does this but when I have to power cycle a projector I let it cool down for 15 ish mins before turning the projector back on, so that it can properly cool down.

So is this firmware issue (the video dropping) something that Jvc can fox via software update and not requiring owners to send the units back in?

Should we be unplugging the projector each time we power down the projector so that next time we use it we don't have an issue?

That would suck and if so I'd want my money back… F that!
Edited by krichter1 - 12/27/13 at 7:16pm
post #132 of 1630
krichter1 or Dennis BP,
Once you left the power cable unused for a few minutes and then returned to using the rs57, were your issues with the projector dropping video solved at least for that session of the projector being on?

I ask because I turned mine on (after having it ubplugged) and it was able to load up the up the blu ray but when I attempted to return to the settings menu of the blue ray player the projector again dropped the video signal and I can't get it back without power cycling. I'm most certainly open to the idea that I am not an expert and there is some user error involved here but I'm starting to think the Jvc's firmware/software etc is fubar... Perhaps not beyond repair. But I have now 5 hours on this damn thing and not more than 5 mins of that is watching anything I'd like to watch.
post #133 of 1630
You have it correct. Most media player menus are driven by cheaper chips which don't support high(er) rez so the projector must be able to cycle between 1080/60 or 720/60 to your 24p movie (and back when done).

Apparently this is a widespread bug which needs to be reported. Let's wait to hear from the "Zombie-Killa" before we know for sure (even though I've done enough debugging to where I'm sure this is the issue).

What we might want to do (as I quit for the eve to eat and get some fam time), is try turning off e-shift then see if it happens again. If so turn back on but then turn off MPC and retest. There are other settings that could trigger this but only further testing will divulge the little bug(ger). wink.gif
post #134 of 1630
When you switch resolutions on whatever source you're feeding the projector, how long are you giving the projector to resync to the input signal? In other words, once the projector's screen goes blank, how long are you waiting before giving up?

My 4910 takes 20-30 seconds for the black screen to disappear and for the new input to appear onscreen, although my slow-syncing Onkyo receiver and wireless HDMI system are also in the signal chain slowing things down. My 4810 had this delay as well due to the Onkyo and HDMI system, but it's definitely a little longer with the 4910 replacing the 4810. Still, although it's a little slow, I haven't had the 4910 flat-out fail to sync yet.
post #135 of 1630
Sounds like it's the new HDMI chipset that JVC is using this year that supports the 4k input doesn't like to change resolutions. Hopefully like others have said this can be fixed with a firmware update. My RS40 has locked up a few times(maybe 4-5 times) during the 2 1/2 years I have had it due to these same HDMI resolution changes. If these new projectors aren't going to support the 4k bluray format then I just wished they had stuck with same HDMI chips that were in last years models provided there isn't a firmware fix.

Mike
post #136 of 1630
It never comes back (waited minutes, then half a hour the last time I reposted).

How this passed QA is beyond me. I could see if it's say something like an odd one (768p etc...), but 1080p/60=>24 and back?? Dissapointing but I'm sure Mike is just waiting for more reviews/confirmations to come in before giving BillyBird a call.

I still want more input from others on their bulb. I'm hoping I just got a lemon in this batch. Todays quick white balance reading was down to 10.6ftL on low and then at -3 iris 146Lux (204 on high). frown.gif
post #137 of 1630
Basically when I switch input, or select a blu ray to play(which would also switch resolutions) the Jvc either syncs or doesn't within 5 ish seconds. I was just watching some iron man 2 on my ps3 and then switched to my Ps4. The Jvc did not like this for sure. While the PS4 simply sitting at the home screen the Jvc began to cut in and out repeatedly. So needless to say I've grown tired of messing with it for the night.
post #138 of 1630
I plan to upgrade my X70 to x700, I already sold my x70. There is a question to me, should I turn the DI on when I calibrate the new X700 or turn DI off? Then turn DI back on after calibration. X700 would be my first projector with DI, so I really don't know much about DI when calibration.
I won't get my X700 before February, I ordered from Japan directly, not US this time.
post #139 of 1630
I took some measurements earlier. Been at least a year since using my light meter. I used the white 100 ire image in the Jvc service menu test patterns (at least I believe the white image is a 100 ire). I did 9 pt measurement with a few settings:

User 1 / User 1
Aperture: 0 / Aperture 0
DI: off / DI: off
Low lamp / High lamp
Lux measurements / Lux measurements
231 257 234 / 312 350 310
234 260 230 / 312 350 312
231 260 225 / 300 345 300
Avg 240 / Avg 321

THX / THX
Aperture 0 / Aperture 0
DI off / DI off
Low lamp / High lamp
Lux Avg: 232 / Lux Avg: 335
Edited by sk576c - 12/27/13 at 9:44pm
post #140 of 1630
]
Quote:
Originally Posted by sk576c View Post

I took some measurements earlier. Been at least a year since using my light meter. I used the white 100 ire image in the Jvc service menu test patterns (at least I believe the white image is a 100 ire). I did 9 pt measurement with a few settings:

User 1 / User 1
Aperture: 0 / Aperture 0
DI: off / DI: off
Low lamp / High lamp
Lux measurements / Lux measurements
231 257 234 / 312 350 310
234 260 230 / 312 350 312
231 260 225 / 300 345 300
Avg 240 / Avg 321

THX / THX
Aperture 0 / Aperture 0
DI off / DI off
Low lamp / High lamp
Lux Avg: 232 / Lux Avg: 335

These are very high readings then are they not.
An average of 321 Lux on high lamp = 29.82ftL
post #141 of 1630
I thought they we're rather high readings. Is the white image in the Jvc service menu test patterns not a 100 ire image?

With the aperture at -10 with the user 1 setting and other settings the same I was getting an Avg of about 130 Lux which is just above 12 ftL
post #142 of 1630
when setting the auto iris, I would recommend auto iris setting 2.

Setting 1 appears to crush blacks once the dynamic gamma is engaged. Setting 2 will clamp the iris the same amount but seems to be better behaved with the gamma. You can see this in Oblivion with the dark scenes of the 'scabs' which are low APL scenes. With iris setting 1, much of the detail becomes obscured. Setting 2 looks much better, but not as 'inky'.

the concern is, you are trading shadow detail for the perception of better blacks. for my preferences, it's not worth losing those details in these dark scenes.


edit: folks may know this already, but if you change the iris to manual and then clamp it down, then go back to the auto-iris, it will maintain the manual iris setting and then vary the iris accordingly based on the scene.
Edited by zombie10k - 12/27/13 at 11:44pm
post #143 of 1630
We can talk more in detail tomorrow as to what I'm about to say as I'm off to bed (just my opinion of course and the software defect does need to corrected), but as what I just experienced tonight watching Elysium mastered in 4K was hands down one of the finest home theater presentations I have ever witnessed. So... I can only assume there's either something wrong with my testing equipment or the Chromapure calibration software is not handling this projector correctly (not sure at this point)! But I've been doing this a long time and mind you I'm no calibration expert and will leave it to Jason and others to comment in greater/granular detail, but even uncalibrated except for the quick grayscale on 16/235 I trust what my eyes told me tonight… WOW eek.gif … is all I can honestly say! wink.gif
post #144 of 1630
Quote:
Originally Posted by krichter1 View Post

I think what I've narrowed it down to is a resolution switching problem, I think between 1080/60 & 1080/24 (not sure if 24p plays a role yet). After the first power reset I was able to switch between DirecTV and my 3 Sony BD changers in my rack; no problem. However once I went to go load the AVS709 disc, probably outputting 1080p/24 (my Sony changer menu for selecting discs is set at 60i I believe), the screen goes blank and no JVC menus or anything are allowed until I switch back to that original resolution.

Once I unplugged and waited about a minute I powered back on and viola!… 1080p/24. However once I brought up the Sony menu or tried switching to DirecTV… F'n blank screen of death again...

I know it's an RS57 thread, but I thought I'd chime in and report that my RS6710 is doing the same thing. It appears to only like a 1080p signal. About a second after I eject a disc, my BPD-93 switches to 1080i and my RS6710 goes blank. While it's in this blank mode, input changes (from HDMI1 to HDMI 2) seem to work, the hide function works (the green light flashes), and the standby function still works (so the CPU hasn't crashed).

I tried plugging my Macbook into HDMI 2 and all I got was a blank screen. However, when I unplugged it (from HDMI 2), the projector displayed a still of that mac screen (compressed into the top half, the bottom half was solid green). Plug the Macbook back in and the 'still' is replaced by a blank screen; unplug it and you get another still image of it. I could do this with my Oppo as well (when it was displaying a menu). Not sure if if I can plug it in and out at 24 times a second, though. smile.gif

Can't see how this escaped their QC (good thing I'd paid extra). smile.gif Someone needs to explain the value of 'regression testing' to them.

Last ramble: I don't know this for sure, but I suspect the firmware can only be updated via RS-232 (which only some of us end-users can handle).

--Larry
post #145 of 1630
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post




edit: folks may know this already, but if you change the iris to manual and then clamp it down, then go back to the auto-iris, it will maintain the manual iris setting and then vary the iris accordingly based on the scene.

This was hoped for!.......

How much better are the black levels with the IA engaged?
post #146 of 1630
Quote:
Originally Posted by Highjinx View Post

This was hoped for!.......

How much better are the black levels with the IA engaged?

I just calibrated my 55 and the 57 as well to look at some A/B of Oblivion, there's plenty of mixed contrast and low APL scenes (any of the scenes with the 'scabs' dressed in black).

The auto iris will only clamp so much in these scenes, the smallest i've seen it go was only with a full black field and it does get quite small. smaller than the lowest possible manual setting.

However, during the fade to black scenes, there isn't quite enough time for this transition, it starts closing and then it's time to open up again for the next scene. this will depend on the length of time of the scene out course. Overall it's relatively invisible but it's also not closing as much as it could with certain low APL scenes so it's hard to put a figure on how much different it actually looks vs. my static iris on the 55.

I am seeing black crush with default iris setting of 1. If someone isn't paying attention, I think it could be mistaken for really inky looking blacks. imo, setting 2 looks much better. The iris closes the same, but you can see the dynamic gamma is not as aggressive in this mode. You can 'mess' with it a little bit here. Watch a scene of the scabs, you will see the shadow detail disappear. Hit the 'menu' button and the gamma quickly changes and the iris opens a bit. Then turn the menu off, watch the iris clamp, it looks good for a second, then you lose the detail at the gamma adjustment kicks in.

When you set it to 2, it looks pretty good and the details are still visible.

I can tell you I still have a liking for my RS55, this is a really nice copy and has held it's own so far vs. the 2 newer generations imo. At least in 2D, 3D is another story best saved for the Sharp 30k.. cool.gif
post #147 of 1630
Zombie, do you have an rs4910 to test as well? I'm really interested in a side by side comparison between the 57 and the 4910 (got the 4910 myself, will take a while to get it).
post #148 of 1630
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

I just calibrated my 55 and the 57 as well to look at some A/B of Oblivion, there's plenty of mixed contrast and low APL scenes (any of the scenes with the 'scabs' dressed in black).

The auto iris will only clamp so much in these scenes, the smallest i've seen it go was only with a full black field and it does get quite small. smaller than the lowest possible manual setting.

However, during the fade to black scenes, there isn't quite enough time for this transition, it starts closing and then it's time to open up again for the next scene. this will depend on the length of time of the scene out course. Overall it's relatively invisible but it's also not closing as much as it could with certain low APL scenes so it's hard to put a figure on how much different it actually looks vs. my static iris on the 55.

I am seeing black crush with default iris setting of 1. If someone isn't paying attention, I think it could be mistaken for really inky looking blacks. imo, setting 2 looks much better. The iris closes the same, but you can see the dynamic gamma is not as aggressive in this mode. You can 'mess' with it a little bit here. Watch a scene of the scabs, you will see the shadow detail disappear. Hit the 'menu' button and the gamma quickly changes and the iris opens a bit. Then turn the menu off, watch the iris clamp, it looks good for a second, then you lose the detail at the gamma adjustment kicks in.

When you set it to 2, it looks pretty good and the details are still visible.

I can tell you I still have a liking for my RS55, this is a really nice copy and has held it's own so far vs. the 2 newer generations imo. At least in 2D, 3D is another story best saved for the Sharp 30k.. cool.gif


Thanks much zombie.....looking forward to your Sony vs JVC comparison......eagerly await the 'ZA'(Zombie Assessment) as to the key differences that make one image stand out over the other!
post #149 of 1630
Zombie... No bs answer.

If you owned it, would you use iris 2 or just turn it off?

Does it provide enough of a positive over its negative?
post #150 of 1630
Yes I would use iris 2 from what I've seen so far. Found some good calibration baselines, I'll post more info tomorrow. Been up all night need some sleep.. smile.gif
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