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80" Speaker Towers / kerfed out of one MDF sheet - 9 spkr setup! - Page 2

post #31 of 148
Are you going to be on elevated seats ? The reason I ask is that the tweeter is on top part of the enclosure the very top

+1 going active crossovers with separate amps for each module
post #32 of 148
BTW Awesome woodworkign skill, a lot of DIY guys here would be envy of your skills.

IMHO ...To make the design simpler I would probably

Stick with the 10, 6.5 and Tweeter. Then replace the 8, 10 and 12 woofers with two or three 12 inch SUBWOOFERS to be powered by a separate amplifier.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 332rick View Post

Here is where things get crazy.

Please Remember this is a budget DIY, but with big ideas.

Thanks to part-express, the drivers are as follow (9 speakers per tower)

GRS woofers
1x)12"
2x)10"
2x) 8"
2x) 6.5"
3" HiFi
Vifa tweeter soft dome

X-over is a 3 way dayton audio. (Will update one model and specs if needed)

Not sure if it make sense the plan is to have two all-in-one towers.

Later I can upgrade drivers quality as budget allows. Step by step.

Thanks for asking

Edited by qguy - 1/21/14 at 2:19am
post #33 of 148
Question : Do you fill the voids /cuts after bending ?
post #34 of 148
Quote:
Originally Posted by qguy View Post

Question : Do you fill the voids /cuts after bending ?

I wondered if the actual thickness of the wood was compromised with the method used for curving and if this affects the cabinet's quality?
post #35 of 148
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrano View Post

I wondered if the actual thickness of the wood was compromised with the method used for curving and if this affects the cabinet's quality?

Nope. I made a round table once with a round skirt piece.The voids get filled up with glue to some degree. It would be fine for a speaker. The easier way is to bend 1/8" plywood around the internal braces and use them as a form to glue the shape too. Much , much faster and more accurate.... but doesn't have the cool factor of kerf cuts cool.gif
post #36 of 148
Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Nope. I made a round table once with a round skirt piece.The voids get filled up with glue to some degree. It would be fine for a speaker. The easier way is to bend 1/8" plywood around the internal braces and use them as a form to glue the shape too. Much , much faster and more accurate.... but doesn't have the cool factor of kerf cuts cool.gif
Thanks for the reply. I love the way it looks. I would like to DIY some speakers as I have in the past. Let us see the final product. Wish we could hear it!
post #37 of 148
Thread Starter 

Happy New Year to all.

 

First I want to apologize for not posting anything for past 3 weeks .

Due to work travel and weather not much has happened during the long break.

 

I will try to address most of the comment / questions & upload a few picture with updates.

 

WOW,

I thought this project was going to be a walk in the park but it is not, it takes time, money, more than 2 hands and more money $$$$. :-)

 

My reply to Comments:

 

  • Trepidati0n:  Good idea, going to with individual amps as active xovers and the hell with it all, but for now we are back to factor #1 (budget)
  •  
  • BassThatHz: I have looked at the Behringers amps line up and i think i can work with a 4000 watt / 4 channel system and just drive 2 CH per tower
  • YES = headaches are coming regardless which path I go with.
  • Cyrano:  Thank you - I am getting there slowly but surely.

 

  • qguy:  thanks, yes the tweeter are set very high and for this build it is already set. I will plan a different solution on the next one. or build a second set of facing just to try.
  • But sorry no elevated seats (yet).  Understood the best result will need for those tweeters to come down. thanks.

qguy:  Yes!!! ​The voids have been filled. this is something that I did over the break was to fill in the kerfing with Elmers wood filler MAX 3X (See picture below)

it set very hard and has given the towers a stiffer & solid feel to them.

 

  • Cyrano: thanks for you support I cant wait my self, for been my first project i think it is not bad but i will plan better next time. I just do not want it to be a 4 month project. 
  • but I also do not want to cut my self too short. I promise a better build next time. (smaller towers LOL).
  •  

 

Here is where i am at currently:

 

Filled all groves cracks on the outside: (two shell bodies only)

Sanded them and refilled them and re-sanded again & again.

Filled the inside kerfing grooves with Wood Filler MAX.

 

Purchased the Veneer , Glue and stain I am going with a Red finish (I have a Small Sample please give me your input)

I will decide later how to seal and add a nice shine to it all ( i am guess I will use a spray gun).

 

 

 

Pictures (enjoy and comment)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Edited by 332rick - 1/21/14 at 4:34pm
post #38 of 148
Quote:
Originally Posted by 332rick View Post

Happy New Year to all.



 



First I want to analogize for not posting anything for past 3 weeks .




uhhh please dont. wink.gif
post #39 of 148
Thread Starter 

Thanks: aaronlinkous

 

Spell-Check did its job I guess but not what I meant. Fixed now!

post #40 of 148
Quote:
Originally Posted by 332rick View Post

I have looked at the Behringers amps line up and i think i can work with a 4000 watt / 4 channel system and just drive 2 CH per tower

Not sure how good / how-bad that is gonna work with passive component like that,
the inductances from all those dis-similar drivers is gonna wreak havoc, could be un-good results.

Are you getting measurement mic system? (http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-omnimic-v2-precision-measurement-system--390-792)
post #41 of 148
Thread Starter 
Another update.

Just finish wrapping tower #2 with the veneer.
Wow this is not easy by yourself while trying to handle a full sheet with strong glue.
Once it's glued it's done deal.

Well for being my first time I think it turn out ok - not that bad?
I did have some creasing problems but I am in the works of fixing them.

Next step will be sanding and staining, followed by movin on to the next tower.
For now I ran out of glue.







Edited by 332rick - 1/22/14 at 2:29am
post #42 of 148
nice.
post #43 of 148
Thread Starter 
Thanks LTD02


As you can see, things are starting to showing some progress here little by little.
The bad part is I can only work on one tower at a time.
The towers now have become too big and heavy at this piont and that is without the front boards with the drivers. (Not complianing here)
Trust me I continue to work on them with a big smile on my face.


Here are today's pictures.










post #44 of 148
Thread Starter 
The stain is from General Finishes and color is a Cranberry Red.


Picture below shows the sample I made a few days back against the natural wood color of tower #2 before tonight's staining.
The sample also has a few coats of polyurethane that explains the high gloss.



Below picture is showing the tower #2 already stained with one coat. biggrin.gif


Edited by 332rick - 1/23/14 at 12:41am
post #45 of 148
While the workmanship on this build is very nice, I have to mirror what others have said. It looks nice, but I fear for how this is going to sound.
post #46 of 148
Thread Starter 

Thanks!

 

I also have many questions on how it will all turn out but there is no need to fear I don't expect to break any records or SPL charts

 

I am not a pro and this is my 1st project and I have learned many things and still have lots to be learned but for this project's glue is setting.

 

The focus now will have to be directed on powering these monsters efficiently,,

 

- I can still change the lay out and number / location of the drivers

- I can always change out the divers (now or later)

- I can always swap out to a proven x-over design ( just money)

 

 

Regardless of the path I take, I will need to shop for a big amp(s) & active x=over just in case i go down that route.

 

But I think all missed the words DIY & budget in my original posting lol.

The truth is the wood here is the most expensive factor not including my time and labor,

 

YES the learning from the feedback is the most valuable part in this project for me.

 

Getting back to work... I will keep reporting on the my updates  and will share as much as possible on how it sounds when that time comes.

 

Cheers!!!:D:D 

post #47 of 148
What stain did you use? Looks great. Would you considered building cabinets for other DIY members? It seems many want DIY speakers but lack the tools to do so. You seem to have no issues with any of the execution parts smile.gif
post #48 of 148
Thread Starter 

The stain is from General Finishes and color is a Cranberry Red.

 

I choose it only from looking at a few samples.

I think dark and red look very classy / going for a cherry look.

A personal choice but there are many options out there. Even a short-cut - just by finish it off with a simple paint job.

 

At least it will look as expensive set lol

 

How they are going to sound well  that's another story....stay tuned..

 

I might consider helping out other members but I have never done anything beside for personal use.

post #49 of 148
Thread Starter 

Here is tonight's update pics

 

Just finished wrapping tower #1. Leaving it to dry over night.

Trimming the edges tomorrow follow with the sanding & staining.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #50 of 148
What procedure are you using for applying stain? Whenever I've tried water based stains on oak, it does not seem to get good penetration/coverage. I'm not sure if that's just because of minwax stains or because I'm using dark stains or doing something else wrong. Your insights would be appreciated.
post #51 of 148
Quote:
Originally Posted by 332rick View Post

Thanks!

- I can still change the lay out and number / location of the drivers
- I can always change out the divers (now or later)
- I can always swap out to a proven x-over design ( just money)

It's great you're learning a lot form this project. Remember any change in the drivers would or could require power and crossover changes. Using a proven crossover design would require difference drivers and completely different cabinet.

Since you are open to changing the driver layout, you may want to that now. Something like a WWMTMWW layout. It can't hurt the design from the current driver layout. And at least then the mids and highs won't be projected several feet over the listeners head.
post #52 of 148
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by deewan View Post

It's great you're learning a lot form this project. Remember any change in the drivers would or could require power and crossover changes. Using a proven crossover design would require difference drivers and completely different cabinet.

Since you are open to changing the driver layout, you may want to that now. Something like a WWMTMWW layout. It can't hurt the design from the current driver layout. And at least then the mids and highs won't be projected several feet over the listeners head.





I will keep your idea as a backup option.
For now the cut outs are already done on the front panel of MDF 1.5" thickness.
But I will consider it for a second set.
I like to get some sound out soon as possible so I can get some measurements done and compare / tweek.
post #53 of 148
Holy wow, I am very jealous of your shop and skills! Looking forward to seeing the completed towers smile.gif
post #54 of 148
Wish I had the time, the space and the patience to take a project like this on.
Here's to hoping you're pleased with the final results.
post #55 of 148
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emetw View Post

Holy wow, I am very jealous of your shop and skills! Looking forward to seeing the completed towers smile.gif



Thank you.

I hope to have tower #2 loaded with drivers by this weekend while i work on tower #1

Both will still need to be covered by clear and set to dry. I expect for that process to last a few days (week)

Stay tune we are getting close here.
post #56 of 148
Thread Starter 
Here is an update of where we are at as of tonight.

I was able to finish all the vennering and staining for both towers
I will check for any missed spots tomorrow.

Pictures below:





Tower #2





Tower #1









post #57 of 148
I like the size of these towers. Speakers are getting increasingly puny these days.
post #58 of 148
Quote:
Originally Posted by 332rick View Post

I will keep your idea as a backup option.
For now the cut outs are already done on the front panel of MDF 1.5" thickness.
But I will consider it for a second set.
I like to get some sound out soon as possible so I can get some measurements done and compare / tweek.

With baffles that thick, make sure you bevel or remove some of the material from the back side of the cutouts for the upper freq drivers so they have some room to breath.
post #59 of 148
Very ambitious build! Where are you located, if you don't mind me asking? Maybe someone near you can help you dial these guys in with some measurement gear. I know I would if I was close to you.
post #60 of 148
There has been much advice given in this thread. Mostly good logical stuff from how it reads. The builder is pretty single-minded, and I think it is cool how he stays on his own course and remains copacetic with all the advice. Personally I think some of the advice would be best to heed now as it is just simple stuff.

Yet I remain impressed at the work being done.

A general question to the people reading this thread: Is it possible to take the xover design and general speaker design of a speaker one likes and use it to serve as the basis of one's own design? A Crossover is a fairly "naked" device, so it would seem to reveal itself easily.
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