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Question about attacing drywall to "Steel Stud"?

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
I have my "ladder" frames up for my soffits and I have a question about attaching the drywall to the frames.

Here is a picture of the back wall after the frame was attached to the ceiling:

I had to predrill holes to attach the 2x2s and the screws for the ceiling.

The question is - is there a better screw to use to attach the drywal to the steel studs besides a standard drywall screw? A standard drywall screw will be very difficult to attach to the steel frame.

Here is a cross section view:


Edited by jimmyk36 - 1/4/14 at 5:20pm
post #2 of 12
They make drywall screws intended for light gauge metal studs, They are called fine thread, don't expect the screw to do all the work, you need to lean on it. I like the Grabber brand.

If you had to pre drill holes, you may need some practice on leaning.
post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thanks - I will look for those.

" you may need some practice on leaning" - Actually I think every thing I have done so far has required some "practice" but I am learning a lot and having a lot of fun doing it!
post #4 of 12
The screw will want to wander, that is why you need to push it hard enough to dimple the metal and for it to stay in place. I called it leaning. I use my impact driver on slow speed until it bites and then I gun it until it sinks. I still use the course head screws for securing the metal track to the ceiling.
post #5 of 12
Maybe a bit old-fashioned, but I take an old awl and my hammer to rap the metal studs at the screw locations. Even with a lot of screw locations, it just takes a couple of minutes and give a perfect depression so the screw doesn't wander.

I'm with BIG on the screw choice....fine thread Gripper brand screws are what you need for attaching the drywall.

You had also asked how you attach drywall to the bottom part in another post....what is your span? If it is under 22.5", then it is no different than attaching drywall to 24" oc studding, but of course the less distance the better. You can also nail in 2x2 strapping as struts to bridge the gap every so often or notch a 2x4 with a jigsaw on both ends to bridge the gap, give you another attachment point and add a bit more strength.
post #6 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thanks - Yeah - the post was in the thread where I got the info from Big for building the ladder frames. (I didn't want to take away too much space in the other thread so posted here with pics as well)

The span is only 12" so the question in the other thread was also referring to the screws to use for the bottom drywall into the metal frame. I could see in the pictures that the vertical drywall was going into the wood studs but wasn't sure about the bottom drywall.
post #7 of 12
I put the bottoms on first checking the verticals for plumb. Add your wiring and lighting then put the faces on last.
post #8 of 12
Thread Starter 

Got the first piece of drywall up. Made sure the sides are plum.

Getting there...
Edited by jimmyk36 - 1/7/14 at 9:05pm
post #9 of 12
looks good
post #10 of 12
Thread Starter 
Since I don't have room for a soffit over the screen, does anyone have any recommendations for 4" IC rated lights?

I plan to use the 4" non-IC rated lights that Big uses for the soffits.
post #11 of 12
I assume you need remodel style. I just googled and found this

post #12 of 12
Thread Starter 
Yes - remodel style. Looking for something comparable to and/or complement the following lights that I am planning to use for the surrounding soffits:


I would like to get 4 to wash the screen and they need to go directly in the ceiling which has insulation in it.

The screen is 135" diagonal 16:9.

Any recommendations for the bulbs to go in these cans for the screen?

Also wondering if I should put the screen lights on a different dimmer than the surrounding soffit lights?

Here is an older picture of the screen wall. The current lights by the screen are actually behind the screen.


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