Hey everyone! I meant to update this thread sooner, but sometimes life requires other things to take priority.
My UCP plates arrived in the mail so I was finally able to properly terminate my SpeakOn connectors and the other external connectors. In all my excitement to get the project going I neglected to take pictures of the plates themselves without connectors attached! I ordered one KEY6 and one UNIV6 from MA to go with a cheap UCP frame that I bought for a steal on eBay.
The whole purpose of the SpeakOns is to have something that is quick and easy to setup and takedown before and after showings. I also wanted a connector that is at least somewhat foolproof so if someone is assisting me the chances of an inexperienced person doing damage are minimized.
The connectors themselves arrived more quickly than I expected from Parts Express (I had heard their shipping took forever), so I had some time to play with the connectors and assemble the jacks with the bridge wire that will connect directly to the receiver. The receiver I acquired fairly cheaply from Craigslist, but from the picture below you can see I only have the option of crimp terminals for connecting to the receiver.
My soldering skills are extremely rusty, so I opted for spade connectors to connect to the jacks themselves. The connectors fit very snugly and will definitely not be vibrating loose any time soon.
As you can see from the picture above, Neutrik does a very good job of labeling the +/- terminals on the back of the jacks so it is very easy to know what's connected to where. These connectors are the 4-pole variety so I could in theory use half as many jacks, but different locations might require different cable lengths and the idea of building lots of multiple-length pigtails doesn't sound appealing to me. The price difference between the 2-pole and 4-pole jacks is only a few cents so it didn't break the bank for me.
Here is a picture of the jack (female connector) mated with the male connector.
The connector inserts into the jack and twists by a quarter-turn and has a spring loaded tab that clicks into place and prevents the connector from twisting back out. The connection is very solid when mated and will not twist free or pull out without pulling back on the locking tab. Neutrik also advertises the connectors as allowing disconnection under load, but I don't know if it's possible to do that with anything but professional-grade audio equipment.
Not having seen the plates before, I purchased the UNIV6 plate with six holes thinking I would have plenty of room for the 5.1 speaker channels I will eventually have hooked up (I just have 3.0 for now). What I should've realized when I received my connectors and before I ordered the plate, are these connectors take up a lot more room than one would expect. I had also purchased some color-coded weatherproofing rings to go around the jacks to foolproof even further, but the UNIV6 plates have maybe an 1/8" of space between the connectors.
Here is a picture of the rings, but as you can see in the next picture, there isn't nearly enough space to accommodate them.
In the future, I may purchase a couple of the UNIV4 plates with only four holes per plate to replace these so I can use the color rings.
This is the back of the plate with connectors installed. The screws for mounting the jacks are a standard M3 10mm length screw, but I would recommend 20mm length or more as these barely fit and it was a pain working around the connector.
Here is a picture of the whole frame temporarily mounted to the case while I figure out height and placement of the plates. You can also see the keystone jacks which I'll talk about in a little bit as well as the unused BNC and XLR connector plates that came with the frame which I'm keeping until I can purchase some blanks.
Here is a close up of the frame after being screwed in.
The back of the cabinet with the speaker connections in place. Everything feels very solid and connecting/disconnecting the speakers is a snap especially when you have limited room or light. The connectors only go in one way and are easily connectible one-handed.
The keystone plate is my way of providing some additional connections to the equipment and a way to provide multiple inputs to the projector without having to run more than one HDMI cable. The plate itself is very basic and provides standard keystone-style holes. I picked up four pass-through HDMI connectors and one Ethernet pass-through from Monoprice. The HDMI connectors were a very tight fit in the plate as they were just a hair too wide. I actually had to rock them back and forth in the holes to use the sharp edges of the plate to file down the plastic somewhat so they would fit easier. Once I got them in, they were very snug and did not have any give. The Ethernet jack however, was a little loose for my taste and has a little bit of wiggle, but it is not loose enough to pop out of the plate under normal use.
The plate with connectors installed.
Since my receiver does not handle HDMI I bought a cheap 3-to-1 HDMI switch for the cabinet. This will allow me to hook multiple devices up but only run one HDMI cable to the projector. It wasn't until I installed everything that I realized I miscounted when purchasing the HDMI keystones. One of the jacks will be serving as an output to the projector. Since the Popcorn Hour is already in the case, I didn't actually need an external connector for it and should've only ordered three. Oh well.
Everything wired up and finally working well! I had an extra horizontal cable ladder laying around so I mounted it backwards to help tidy things up a bit. Will probably replace it with something different at a later time. The 3-way HDMI switch is the little box on top, it has a remote but also auto-senses so I don't need to touch it very often. Eventually the empty space will be filled in with blanks and vent panels to make it very much a "black box" that you simply hook up and watch.