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Wood Backing for T Nut SI HT-18 Build

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

All,

 

I'm using an Erich flat pack for my build.  I decided that I like the look of cap head screws, so I went about figuring out how to use them.  I also liked the option of being able  to remove the driver if I need to.  T nuts (with spikes) seem like a good solution, but as many have said before, they probably won't hold well in MDF.   An immediate thought was to use 3/8H x 1D x 1W strips of  poplar (cut down from 1x2's that I have) glued to the inside of the cabinet as solid structure for the T nuts.  Seems like it would work, but I can't find anyone having done it before, so that worries me. :)

 

Any thoughts?

 

Thanks,

 

Aaron

post #2 of 8
I have used 3/4 ply blocks many times to beef things up. Thinking back I’ve used MDF blocks also but like the ply better. For your situation I can see the harder wood might be the better option though.. just so it doesn't split. Just be sure to stay away from these http://www.parts-express.com/1-4-20-barbed-body-insert-nuts-50-pcs--081-1096
Edited by steve nn - 2/11/14 at 3:39am
post #3 of 8
Have you considered using birch ply instead of MDF?
post #4 of 8
Thread Starter 
Used an Erich flat pack, so mdf. Happy to report that the glued on poplar seems to be working well.

Thanks all.
post #5 of 8
You can drill and tap for your given screw size. That's how I did my 18s. You can add superglue to harden the MDF before inserting the screw. After testing on some scrap MDF, I found you can skip the tap and the superglue. Just drill a hole like you were going to tap it and the screw will displace the MDF and make a tight fit.

Sam
post #6 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by cincyITguy View Post

All,

I'm using an Erich flat pack for my build.  I decided that I like the look of cap head screws, so I went about figuring out how to use them.  I also liked the option of being able  to remove the driver if I need to.  T nuts (with spikes) seem like a good solution, but as many have said before, they probably won't hold well in MDF.   An immediate thought was to use 3/8H x 1D x 1W strips of  poplar (cut down from 1x2's that I have) glued to the inside of the cabinet as solid structure for the T nuts.  Seems like it would work, but I can't find anyone having done it before, so that worries me. smile.gif

Any thoughts?

In addition to what's already been mentioned, check out this thread about fasteners for DIY. It has lots of useful tips and techniques.
post #7 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

I have used 3/4 ply blocks many times to beef things up. Thinking back I’ve used MDF blocks also but like the ply better. For your situation I can see the harder wood might be the better option though.. just so it doesn't split. Just be sure to stay away from these http://www.parts-express.com/1-4-20-barbed-body-insert-nuts-50-pcs--081-1096

Do you mean these Steve?





Ohh noooo...............





Actually they work perfect..........as long as you're careful......use appropriate drill stop.......and use Gorilla Glue.....never had an issue in any of my projects. biggrin.gif
post #8 of 8
I wonder how well using a wood hardener would work (often polystyrene dissolved in solvent. used to harden dry rot).
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