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The Corinthians - Page 4

post #91 of 327
Wow man, wow.

When you have those stacked with the Danley's in between it's gonna be






cool.gif
post #92 of 327
Thread Starter 
Took a pic, but didn't get to upload as my Blue Devils took the court last night and looked like a high school prep squad. My time would have been better served working on the boxes. I did however manage to get the last couple braces in and pl'd in place, and ran some silicone around the corners inside biggrin.gif These guys are built like a brick sh&^ house. They won't be moving an inch. I also patched up the screw holes, so tonight should be sanding and paint/stain prep. I think I actually want to go with a really dark stain I have. It's rust-oleum brand and the name of the tint is "Kona" It is almost a black stain, but usually leaves some really neat marbling in the box. Should set them a little apart biggrin.gif I do not plan on running poly over that as bad as I would want to. No shiny surfaces as close as these are going to be to the screen.
post #93 of 327
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

You guys see any issues with using a binding post like this to allow me to wire each VC individually and then do jumpers for different wiring alignments from outside the box?

EDIT: Forgot to post the link

http://www.parts-express.com/gold-banana-subwoofer-input-output-speaker-terminal-cup--260-313

Nope, I used these as well a couple of times. I either do that or buy additional stand alone posts and always wire each coil individually. Make a couple of jumper to change from serial to parallel is much easier than pulling the drivers....

Edit, I see you ordered the stand-alone posts. I prefer those since you don't have to cut a huge hole in the enclosure. A small drill hole can be filled and patched quickly and easily....

Just make sure the posts are long enough to go through the wood you are using or else you end up routing a recess on the inside to get them through.
post #94 of 327
Thread Starter 
Sweet, yea I actually plan on making a recess anyways I think, to keep the binding posts a little closer to level with the box sides and not stick out too far. I am going to take one box down and do a mock-up and if it isn't necessary, I might save myself the trouble.
post #95 of 327
Thread Starter 
Well scratch that! Those mini binding posts are only good to go on those metal plates that PE sells. The threads don't even make it a half inch through the BB, and I dont want to route a super thin area of the rear panel just to make them work. Ordered terminal cups and they should be here tomorrow.

Sorry for not posting any pics, I will certainly get some going this evening. I have been making progress, though! Front and back sides of the box left to stain this evening and then the boxes are ready for stuffing, terminal cup and drivers!!!! I also received my other two fun new toys, so I need to stop holding back and let you guys see what else is in store smile.gif
post #96 of 327
Thread Starter 
UPDATE! Man I love this color. It is "Kona" from RustOleum, nice chocolatey deep brown. Two coats really takes it over the top, but you lose a little of the grain doing two. I actually decided I liked one the most. Being so close to the screen there won't be any poly on this but i can only imagine how nicely it would "pop" with some sheen to it! Check it!


post #97 of 327
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

I also received my other two fun new toys, so I need to stop holding back and let you guys see what else is in store smile.gif

Well out with it then! You made that post 6hrs ago saying you "need to stop holding back" so WTH are these two new toys? tongue.gif
post #98 of 327
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post


These guys came calling to my door and I just couldn't deny them....Once again, thanks to John for tipping me off to the deal smile.gif And here is the stage as it stands now, until the Big (Bigger) boys come in from the garage

post #99 of 327
Holy crap, talk about a WALL of sound! eek.gif ...smile.gif
post #100 of 327
WOHHHH!!! Just can't imagine something like that.
post #101 of 327
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

Holy crap, talk about a WALL of sound! eek.gif ...smile.gif

That's the plan!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

WOHHHH!!! Just can't imagine something like that.

Well, the deal was too hard to pass up. A nice trade for some other components I had laying around, and with two 2242's handling midbass? Should be fun right? biggrin.gif
post #102 of 327
So those will handle 50hz and up in your room Brandon?
post #103 of 327
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

So those will handle 50hz and up in your room Brandon?

Not really sure what I want them to do yet smile.gif I listened to some tunes this evening and they definitely have the bass covered on their own above 30hz or so. The fact is, the Danleys do so well down to close to 60hz, I am not sure why I need them, but the trade was good and I think I can make these improve the overall efficiency of my front stage. If they can handle the 40-120hz area, the SI's take the bottom, and the Danleys the rest, it could be epic. From what I heard tonight, the 2242's are good enough for just about any theater on their own! It is basically like having two captivators that take way less power, but can't quite get that last 20-30hz as prominently. With EQ, they are supposed to be good down to 20hz, but I haven't messed with that yet as that is not their intended purpose to begin with (for my theater at least). Everything will end up going through the DCX so I can cater the crossovers and overall sound any way I like. I am mad happy with the interim bass machine at this point. Just running off a bridged epx4000 I ran them to reference, pretty hot (15-20dB) on some music and they just tickled the second light on the amp. I should have known as when I had the RE's running sealed up front, I had my 4648's (dual 2225s' each) taking care of the midbass and they were unreal. These just take the tuning down a shade but instead of being good up to 4-500hz, they are only ready for up to 120-140hz.

Anyways, the Corinthians are drying nicely and should be ready for the terminals that should show up tomorrow. All that is left after that is stuffing them and loading the drivers. Can't wait! All of this together and tuned properly is going to be crazy! I need more amp channels to keep that Shadow build in the mix. Right now I will be using both channels of the peavey for the SI's the EPX for the 2242's and nothing at this point for the Shadow. I COULD put all 8 SI's on a single channel of the peavey at 3750 watts which is not bad at all, the other channel to the Shadow, and the EPX to the JBL's biggrin.gif That is actually exactly why I am mounting the massive 8 terminal cups so I can make that decision if I deem necessary. 12 18's !??!??! I am almost Popalock style! haha
post #104 of 327
Decisions decisions...lol biggrin.gif

Looks like you have some tough choices! smile.gif
post #105 of 327
All bases covered Beast. Would you be running the 2242s in stereo with the Danleys or as a split lfe with the SIs?
post #106 of 327
Now we're talking smile.gif
Quote:
12 18's !??!??! I am almost Popalock style! haha

But you are equal with me... well, almost. wink.gif
post #107 of 327
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

All bases covered Beast. Would you be running the 2242s in stereo with the Danleys or as a split lfe with the SIs?

At this point, they are on the SW1 out, and I beleive n8 tried doing it that way with his and ended up deciding he liked it better off the LFE split with all his other woofage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

Decisions decisions...lol biggrin.gif

Looks like you have some tough choices! smile.gif

Actually I almost feel like this is a no-brainer. IF I were to run the SI's at 4 ohm stereo, each driver would get 505 watts. If I were to run them all off a single channel at 2 ohm, each would get 481 watts. Seems pretty clear to me. Then Shadow getting the same off the other channel, and 2242's on the EPX. That maximizes the available watts, instead of having to get another ipr smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

Now we're talking smile.gif
But you are equal with me... well, almost. wink.gif

Moving up in the world!!! Haha
post #108 of 327
This is going to be amazing. Can't wait for the final picture of it all setup. Makes me feel like I should be doing something....smile.gif
post #109 of 327
Thread Starter 
After acquisition of the SH50's, building Jeff's third D.O. Box, all four of these new boxes, and moving all the stuff around in between, I am safely done with stuff for a while. Nothing short of working on the new surround boxes and possibly beginning to look into a new projector. I say that now as the body is a bit weary, but I know I will get the itch soon enough to find something new to build.... The surround boxes won't be too hard and will help get some of the scrap in the garage cleaned up as well.

With the 2242's in house, I will have a fair share of blending the subs together before it all sounds right.... OR I could just plug those ports, eh SS?
post #110 of 327
Nice!
post #111 of 327
Thread Starter 
Next question: How do you wire 8 dual 2 ohm drivers to a final two ohm load? I can't find anywhere that calculates more than 4 drivers at a time. I did have them series/parallel in quads for a final 4 ohm load, I would assume I just keep doing that and it drops the load to 2 ohm no?

The other thing is I think I will just go with the way I currently have been doing it for final 4ohm load per two boxes. If I were to do it this way, you guys think I should do each tower as a channel, or the bottom left and right boxes as one channel and the top left and right boxes as the other channel. Doing it this way allows me to go ahead and get two of them back in, possibly tonight and thinking out load, the bottom two boxes will be equidistant obviously from the LP, where the upper drivers will be a little further away being up higher overall. Not by much, but a little bit

Or am I picking at strings right now biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif
post #112 of 327
Yeah. Four d2 drivers in a series-parallel would be 4ohm nominal. So if you have eight d2 drivers just parallel two 'series-paralleled' groups of four together for a 2ohm load. Easy.
post #113 of 327
Thread Starter 
So I would literally string the the positive to the first woofer and loop each VC all the way to the 8th driver where I would bring the negative from the amp to the final VC? Exact same as this, just with 8 drivers in line instead?

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=4&I=22#results

Second option obviously smile.gif
post #114 of 327
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

So I would literally string the the positive to the first woofer and loop each VC all the way to the 8th driver where I would bring the negative from the amp to the final VC? Exact same as this, just with 8 drivers in line instead?

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=4&I=22#results

Second option obviously smile.gif

Yeah, pretty much. I know, it's a lot of wiring but you asked. tongue.gif

So right, one driver is hooked in series for it to be 4ohm, then in series with an additional driver for now 8ohm load. Then parallel those to go right back down to 4ohm. Then do the same thing to another set of four.

Then hook these two sets of four in parallel for 2ohm load.

smile.gif
post #115 of 327
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

Yeah, pretty much. I know, it's a lot of wiring but you asked. tongue.gif

So right, one driver is hooked in series for it to be 4ohm, then in series with an additional driver for now 8ohm load. Then parallel those to go right back down to 4ohm. Then do the same thing to another set of four.

Then hook these two sets of four in parallel for 2ohm load.

smile.gif

Solid. Still contemplating another ipr just to keep them all at 4 ohm for the THD issue that I have read about :/ I know they do well with 500 watts each as having been running just four for a while, they were impressive on their own! Decisions. That is why I bought the big terminal blocks so I can change everything easily (Minus moving a 600 pound stack).

On another note, as I said earlier, body is weary. Precedence and a harmonious abode trumped getting half the boxes ready tonight. I was being proactive and decided the garage cleanup should be paramount once I got all the boxes down into the theater. With that said, every time I get a little tired I just look at a pic like this and can't help but to be re-motivated biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

post #116 of 327
Thread Starter 
And yea, the Danley's make all those 18's look like child's play....That's how really large they are biggrin.gif
post #117 of 327
Woah! Sick pic! biggrin.gif


Buuuut wtf is this about?

"Still contemplating another ipr just to keep them all at 4 ohm for the THD issue that I have read about :/ "

Huh?
post #118 of 327
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

Woah! Sick pic! biggrin.gif


Buuuut wtf is this about?

"Still contemplating another ipr just to keep them all at 4 ohm for the THD issue that I have read about :/ "

Huh?

I have read several times where people have mentioned higher THD when running lower impedance loads. I don't know if it holds any water, especially since the ipr is obviously optimized for 2 ohm loads, and wouldn't heat up like a big class a/b or anything.

The other main reason is for individual EQ, but I likely won't need any other than an LT down low, just don't know what will change with the drivers in this vertical orientation.
post #119 of 327
JLAudio, Stereo Integrity and others recommend only wiring drivers in parallel. With Dual 2ohm drivers, the most that is recommended to use per channel is 2 drivers for a 2 ohm load. Why is this recommendation not usually followed here? Does this only apply to car audio and 12-volt systems?

Tutorial: Wiring Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Subwoofer Drivers
Quote:
Originally Posted by JLAudio 
With multi-driver sub systems, which often feature dual voice coils (DVC) on each driver, the level of wiring complexity can be enough to turn-off even the most adventurous of car audio do-it-yourselfers. Fear not, though, for we have compiled wiring diagrams of several configurations for dual voice coil (DVC) drivers.
Please note that when wiring multiple drivers it is recommended that series connections between drivers be avoided at all costs. This does not include series connections made between voice coils on the same driver. For more information, please consult our Dual Voice Coil FAQs.
Additionally, if you have an idea for a wiring configuration and you do not see it here, chances are you should re-think its implementation (in other words, don't do it). You will more than likely find that the results will be less than optimal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrodynamic/Stereo Integrity 
You always want to parallel the drivers and series the coils. In theory either way will perform exactly the same but in reality when you series woofers one woofer will get more power than the other (the first woofer in the chain will get more power). If you look at your woofers while they are playing one is probably moving a little more than the other. When you series the coils you minimize this effect because the series wire used between the voice coils is very short.
post #120 of 327
Hmmm. Interesting. I didn't know that... redface.gif

That's interesting because I have been doing it the 'correct' way out of habit since ...ever. WHEW!

tongue.gif
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