Awhile back I had this crazy idea to build an elegant curved SEOs tower starting with a curved skeleton. I chose the Tempest as my guinea pig and I'm happy to show off some of the work I've been doing little by little here in the cold winter months.
Here are some initial pictures of the skeleton being glued and after they were done being glued. The front baffle is 1" mdf, each curved piece is 3/4" plywood as well as the 3 back strips.
I decided to use 1" mdf for the curved panel and kerf it instead of using multiple layers of 1/8" mdf. I had to use a blade that was 3/16" so the kerfs are a little bit larger then what I would have liked but filling the gaps was much easier this way. Test piece:
I built a curved "bed" for the panels to sit in while I was clamping them. Used a lot of glue to fill the kerfs!
Here is a test fitting after the curved back was dry. I had Erich send me non rounded front baffles with no port holes and created a nice curved front piece out of 1-1/2" mdf to give it a bit more curvy-ness!
As weather permitted finally I was able to make more progress this weekend, cutting holes on the bottoms for ports and terminals as well as glue top and bottom end caps. Sanding down those kerfed ridges is going to be a pain!
These are looking fantastic! Very impressive! I am curious, how do you guys make these elaborate bracing panels? How do you ensure that all of these intricate bracing panels are the exact same size? What do you use to cut them & how do you make sure that they all line up properly?
Very nice looking build realtight! I've been contemplating something similar for the tux1099 for the living room. What method did you use on the front baffles??
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 /t/1527379/curved-seos-tempest-build#post_24608289
These are looking fantastic! Very impressive! I am curious, how do you guys make these elaborate bracing panels? How do you ensure that all of these intricate bracing panels are the exact same size? What do you use to cut them & how do you make sure that they all line up properly?
Honestly, I found a local cnc guy that cut all of those curved pieces so they are all exact, I started cutting them with a jig and my router and was taking way too long. The red clamps you see in the photos clamp wood at perfect 90 degree angles and the long strips help keep everything in place while they dried.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopShop1 /t/1527379/curved-seos-tempest-build#post_24608296
Very nice looking build realtight! I've been contemplating something similar for the tux1099 for the living room. What method did you use on the front baffles??
On the 7th post you can see the jig this guy created, I did the exact same thing. It took a lot of passes with my router but I think they ended up nice
After they were done I decided to keep the baffles Erich sent me and just cut a window into the curved front with my router, and shaved the edges until the two pieces fit perfectly.
It's not set in stone yet, and I'm a little worried about screwing them up but I bought some really nice glossy Madagascar Laminate from cabinetparts.com
The inside flat baffle I'm going to use some leftover zebrawood veneer and stain it gray to give a little contrast to the glossy black laminate.
Haha, it does sound a little ridiculous doesn't it?
The company that I ordered the veneer from screwed up and sent me two different types. They sent more to make up for it and let me keep the type that didnt match
Beautiful, can't wait to see the finish product. Definitely something that a nice veneer could benefit from. Subscribed. Bring on the nice weather so you can this one finished up.
I've considered a curved build on a much smaller scale. Let me know if I'm on the right track to making the ribs... I'd make a template and trace it onto my sheet goods. Then I'd bandsaw them out within an 1/8" of the line. Then affix the template to the roughly cut out rib. Flush route it out on the router. Repeat for each one.
It seems you were doing something like that, but gave up and went with a CNC. Was that because it was too much work, or you weren't getting a reliable repeatable result??
Tux that's what I did with all 27 ribs in my build. I just screwed the template to the rough cuts and routed for a few hours. The caps I just didn't screw all the way through so no filling
On the 7th post you can see the jig this guy created, I did the exact same thing. It took a lot of passes with my router but I think they ended up nice
After they were done I decided to keep the baffles Erich sent me and just cut a window into the curved front with my router, and shaved the edges until the two pieces fit perfectly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic /t/1527379/curved-seos-tempest-build#post_24609220
Very very nice. Thanks for sharing.
I've considered a curved build on a much smaller scale. Let me know if I'm on the right track to making the ribs... I'd make a template and trace it onto my sheet goods. Then I'd bandsaw them out within an 1/8" of the line. Then affix the template to the roughly cut out rib. Flush route it out on the router. Repeat for each one.
It seems you were doing something like that, but gave up and went with a CNC. Was that because it was too much work, or you weren't getting a reliable repeatable result??
The initial shape's outside edge is just half of a diameter which I cut with my router and the straight part has a 1/4" indent to lock onto the mdf board. I used my dads bandsaw for the inside braces but after the first piece was done I received a quote from my cnc guy that I couldn't pass up.
He only charged me a wholesale price for the wood and an hour of time. It was actually cheaper for me to go that route so I couldnt pass it up. While he did those I started on the front boards which took forever because my work and the outside weather.
Thanks - I think anyone on here with the right tools and patience could do the same. I dont consider myself a talented wood worker.
The internal volume is exactly the same as the kit. The ports need to have the same vertical clearance as their diameter which is 2.5". I'm going to build a 1" bottom piece that has a hole in the middle and install 1.5" spikes that PE sales.
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