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Front Projector Installation Question  

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
I have been reading posts on the board with interest for several months. I have a question that I can't recall having been addressed. Any and all assistance is sincerely welcome.

I'm building a home theater in my basement and am planning a CRT front projection system, ceiling mounted. The constuction is a few days from wall boarding. I'm considering several manufacturers including NEC and Sony. Additionally, I want to build in the capability to install a projector as heavy as the Sony G-90 (242 lbs.). I am planning to install, but not converge the projector.

The problem is I've been getting varied opinions from authorized dealers regarding what is needed to install the front projector. For example, an authorized Sony dealer told me that due to the weight of the G-90, they would have to install steel bars perpendicular to the joists, spanning 4 joists, to distribute the load. I have an 8' ceiling with 2x10 joists running parallel from the projector location to the screen. Above this mounting location is a kitchen with no floor loading I would consider to be a factor. I'm having a hard time believing steel bars are needed.

Is there a better way to prepare for the installation of a projector (G-90 for instance) than to nail, or screw pieces of 2x12s at a perpendicular angle between the joists, flush with the lower edge? I am open to any serious suggestion anyone can provide. Thanks.



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post #2 of 10
in saw a G90 the other night, it has a pair of grab handles on each side! with a DVP-3300 (i think) the picture was flawless...

dave
post #3 of 10
Dave, I live in Fife, WA. Where did you see a G90 in action?

Steve
post #4 of 10
on thursday at Definitive Audio's home theater show. lot's of neat stuff. anyway, it was on one of the rooms on the ceiling and it has eight handles on it. 242 lbs.

the sony rep in another room was giving out promotional copies of the Avia disc. also scored a copy of "Dave Grusin presents West Side Story" dvd in 5.1. while i'm not really into jazz, it's pretty sweet.

dave
post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
Thanks Chuck T5. I think the rods you refer to may be what the Sony guy was talking about, or something similar. However, respectfully, since the 2x10 joists that are 16" on center are accessable, again, I'm having a hard time believing that steel rods are needed for a 242 lb projector mounted from these joists. This sure seems easier than rods as well. I suppose I could use 4x6s or 6x6s.

One and all, please let me know what you think. Thanks.

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post #6 of 10
How are you going to finish the ceiling? If you are going to install a drop celing, you can pretty much do anything up there.

If you plan on screwing drywall right to the joists, than maybe you would want to notch out the joists 1 1/2 inches deep by 11 3/4 wide, and secure an 8-10 foot 2x12 (or 2 depending on how much depth you need to install the projector). Then, the surface of the 2x12 would be level with the bottom of the joists, making drywall installation easier and prettier.

If your walls are still open, I would span the 2x12 across the room so that it is not only secured to the joists, but resting on a load bearing wall on each side of the room.
post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Thanks MikeC. Essentially, we were thinking the same thing. Instead of notching the joists, I was thinking of cutting the 2x12s into 2, 3, or 4 pieces 14" long and placing them between several joists, flush with the lower edge. Notching may be something to consider though. Thanks again.

Tim

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post #8 of 10
Thread Starter 
Thanks MikeC. I'm going to use drywall for the ceiling. I think it will be more base friendly (less vibration).

The 2x10s joists run from the projector location to the screen wall. If I screw or nail the 2 2x12s, 4x6s or 6x6s at the projector mounting location, perpendicular to the joists at a lenght of 14" (joists are 16" on center) and then straddle a joist with the mounting bolts for the projector mount such that one side of the mount is screwed or nailed into one 2x12, 4x6 or 6x6, then the other side of the mount is screwed into a separate 2x12, 4x6, or 6x6, I've efectively distributed the load between 3 joists. I was thinking this should be good enough. Even if I have to put the mount entirely between 2 joists, this should also be OK. What do you think?

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post #9 of 10
I'm not really clear on what you are describing, but it sounds like you want to scab in the 2x12's between exisiting joists.

I'm not sure how well this would work in distributing the load across more than 2 joists, since it is not one piece of lumber.

Also, if you are forced to use one of the joists as a location to screw in your mounting bracket, you may not be able to get the projector in the center of the screen.

If you decide to use my suggestion above, an 8foot 2x12 would span 6 joists and you will be able to use 1 1/4 lag screws to hold up the bracket. This is more than enough support.

When securing the 2x12 to the joists, use 5 16D 3 1/2" nails on each joist.

Another alternative would be to get a real contractor out there. Pretend you need an estimate, and try to see what his plan of action would be.
post #10 of 10
There are several ways you can hang a 250 lb projector, but before I get into that (excuse the screaming) DO NOT NOTCH OUT YOUR FLOOR JOISTS!!! THAT'S A SERIOUS CODE VIOLATION AND WILL SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCE THE LOAD BEARING ABILITY OF THE JOISTS.

If you know exactly where the projector mounting bracket will be installed, you can, using lag bolts, install double 2x12's between the joists to attach projector mount.

Plan "B". Buy a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" MDF and have it cut to a size about 2" bigger all around than the projector. Take your trusty router and do something to the edges. Assuming the projector will be centered under this MDF board, locate where the projector mounting bracket will have to be installed. In the center of this location, cut a 2-1/2" hole (to bring your cables in from the ceiling).

Finish the MDF. You can paint it black, grey, whatever. Locate the mounting holes for the projector bracket and drill through the MDF. Make a couple of short pieces of Uni-Channel. Run bolts up through the projector mounting bracket, through the holes in the MDF and into the Uni-Channel. Using washer and lock washers, bolt that bracket into place.

You now have your projector mounting bracket attached to a "ceiling plate" slightly larger than your projector.

When you are ready to mount the projector. Locate the ceiling plate on the ceiling so the center of the mounting bracket is to manufacturer's spec. With your trusty buddy holding the ceiling plate in place (you'll have to cut through the dry wall to accommodate the uni-channel.) Mark the ceiling plate to indicate the center of the floor joists.

Now pre-drill through the ceiling plate and into the joists for 1/2" by 6" (or 5/8" by 6") lag bolts. You'll want to run about eight of these per side. Now bolt the ceiling plate to the joists through the dry-wall.

The math? 242 lbs divided by 16 lags = a 15 lb load per bolt. No problem.

You do have a problem however ... anytime anyone walks across the floor above your projector will jiggle. ;-)
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