or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Screens › Best fabric for Homemade Screen?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Best fabric for Homemade Screen? - Page 2  

post #31 of 152
Wow... I quit looking at the boards for a week and look what happens! Ok I'll tell you what i know for now and find out the rest when I get home and look at the can...
I originally wanted the Titanium White I think it was Laura Ashley, but I'm not sure. Anyway when I could not find that at Lowes or Home Depot(go tony! #20) I decided to go with the Lumious White someone in this very forum had suggested! I went to Sherwin William and asked for the best Interior Laytex they had in Luminous White. We went over to the color sample swatch thing, found the sample and away he went. I did ask him to shake it good as I would use it as soon as I got home.
If you go to SW and look at their sample swatches you will see Luminous White is definately the WHITEST of the white paints they sell. Also when I painted the canvas I used a foam brush on the final coat so I left the fewest brush marks I could.

When I get home tonight I'll try to get a look at the can and give you guys some more details.

Sam
post #32 of 152
You can't get sheetrock larger than 4 x 8 ft can you? That's one huge disadvantage for people w/ big projectors.

I chose ply, same size, instead of sheetrock because sheetrock will buckle unless properly supported, and getting that kind of support to sheetrock is hard when you're as incompetent as I am.

Raoul-Sam
Quote:
Originally posted by EJ:
What are the advantages using fabric compared to sheetrock with the sherwin williams paint? It would be perfectly smooth, cheap, and would reflect all light, with none "spilling" through the screen and reflecting off the wall behind.

For that matter, what are the advantages of a pre-made, low-gain screen compared to sheetrock?

I've gotten answers like "You wouldn't put $50 tires on a Ferrari" But I'm looking for specific answers.

thanks! EJ
post #33 of 152
has anyone compared the white paint on a wall to the stretched fabric or shower curtains or the painted canvas?

It seems like that might be the truly easiest solution, if one has a large expanse of sheetrock wall, like i have. Wouldn't it seem like S+W Luminous white would appear the same whether on Canvas or Sheetrock? Or ist the finish of the sheet rock less controllable and thus more of a potential problem?

Should one first put down a coat of silver? Would this increase gain or is that necessary?

finally, I would like to set up my HT in a rec room type environment. How is the ambient light rejection for a front projection screen like this compared to a RP setup? This is kind of an academic question because I have just learned the price of a RP screen--$3000!!! --and will probably do the FP thing, but I'd just like to know if anyone wants to share their knowledge.

I'd appreciate any comments.
post #34 of 152
Hello Gentlemen,

Ok, I cheated. After reading the first 15 or so posts I went straight to the end to add this. So, if it has been suggested before please accept my appologies.

In the Wide Format Imaging industry they often use material as wide as 50 to 72 inches (50 and 60 are more common). Depending on material thickness, roll length is anywhere between 40 and 150 feet.

What prompts me to suggest this industry and its materials is the fact that the extreamly white surfaces are formulated to enhance the color of inks, dyes and other media applied to it. I believe one of the catch phrase for these materials is "Gamma Correct". Materials are available in low sheen to high gloss. Some of the substrates available are: paper, synthetic paper, cotton, pvc, polyester, canvas, silk, tyvek, and mylar. In addition to the whites they have matalics and clears. Also, some are available with adhesive backing and others in a "cling" type backing.

Things to watch out for is water soluable surfaces. Many are only available in this form for reception of water based inks. There are some that are waterproof. These are usually for the dye based inks intended for outdoor use.

Anyhow, to make a long story short, if you could find one of the waterproof surfaces in a matte finish it would most likely be of the whitest whites out there in roll material form. below are two web based companies I've done business with. The first is Sentinal Imaging by trade name. They have very friendly people on staff. Give them a call and ask lots of silly questions. They also sell a matte overspray in 20 oz cans that can waterproof the non-waterproof material.
http://www.inkjet.com
http://www.milanoinc.com

I've probably given rise to questions here so I'll check back from time to time and see if I can answer any of them. On Sentinal's site look for their Graphix Canvas. The following is Sentinal's description of this product.

Graphix Canvas
Available in both a 15-mil cotton/poly blend low sheen coated material, and a 17-mil cotton/poly blend matte finish. Graphix Canvas is used to give the perfect brush stroke effect for artistic imagery. Its real beauty is shown when it is stretched and framed. The visual impact of this material is stunning. Applications include fine art reproductions, portrait photography, museum and gallery displays, banners, signs, theatrical backdrops and movie props. Acid
free for archivability.

Its available in 60" x 40' rolls (152.40cm x 12.19m) for $350.00 US per role. I figure this could make a 110+ diag 16:9 screen..... 5 of em! That's 70 bucks a screen! Almost disposable http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/smile.gif

I have some of this material in a 24" roll. I'll try it when I get my JVC G11 installed. Should be up in about a week and a half. I'll let you know what I see but keep in mind I have nothing to compare it to yet. I plan on getting the M2500 after the G11 is up and running.


Thanks for your time everyone,

- monsoon

sorry 'bout the type-Os

[This message has been edited by monsoon (edited April 07, 2000).]
post #35 of 152
Ham:

I'm in the process of doing exactly what you've asked about; i.e. compare prepped homebrew screen to drywall. However, I'm doing it in the opposite order!

My HT is under construction as we speak. It is a combination HT and rec room, roughly 14'w x 40'l (!). One end is dedicated to the front projection area. My screen is a custom-framed expanse of drywall 60" x 120", canted approximately 1.5 deg. back from vertical. This is to correct for keystoning for the above-ceiling mounted (hidden in a soffit) G1000 D-ILA unit (lens center about 4" above main ceiling height). Determined these dimensions using the JVC screen sizing software (great stuff, found the link on the forum). This drywall will be finished dead smooth (pity the poor drywaller :-) ), then buried under multiple coats of the aforementioned Sherwin Williams Luminous White (I'll probably start with the EverClean Satin finish). Being a newbie to FP, I'm sure that I'll be blown away with the result! Then, I'll take my time to experiment with other screen options, simply hanging candidates over this drywall area. I'll let you know of my results as I get them!

As construction progresses, I hope to be able to document each step of the way, and present the results on a web site somewhere.

Thanks for the chance to respond...

John Wells
post #36 of 152
I'm still having a lot of trouble getting this blockout curtain fabric in Australia. I have checked the two biggest fabric chains here. They had a lot of white vinyl fabrics but most were slightly textured on the final side and off-white on the reverse side.

Second problem: none were available in rolls more than 140cm high - that's too short for my screen height (150cm, that's 60" for you Yanks).

Has anyone got an actual brand and name of this fabric? I appreciate that fabric shops don't exactly advertise brand names like your average electronics retailer! But if someone could ask the question, I'd be grateful.
post #37 of 152
Thread Starter 
Sam,

Appreciate your extra info -

Was that fine weave or coarse weave canvas? (slightly irregular)
Did you use a base or primer coat prior to the luminous white paint?
Was the paint in matte or satin finish? In this thread Guy Kuo states that it must be the matte finish - would you concur? http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/Forum9/HTML/000017.html
Can you still see the weave of the canvas through those 3 coats of paints?
Is there much light going through your screen onto the wall behind it?
Does the center of your screen noticeably reflect more light than the edges?
How does it compare with each sample from Stewart and Draper?

Yup! I guess half the work in making a home-made screen is posting about it here!
Thanks again for sharing your insights with us.


Raoul,

My screen will also be wider than 8' (sheet of sheetrock). Here's a link to Vern's home theater with screenshots of his large 1.0 gain painted sheetrock screen (5' x 12'): http://members.home.net/tvdias/
However, I am considering using fiberboard, which I believe it is available in larger sizes than 4' x 8'. However, it must be rigidly framed and suspended from my uneven wall as the fiberboard is light but flexible.

Then maybe an oil-based coating in a can (called in France "enduit gras") which is used for smoothing plaster or sheetrock walls prior to painting them with high-gloss lacquers (not planning to use glossy for a screen).
The issue is whether it would be preferable to keep the texture of the fiberboard, or to have a flat & smooth surface.

Afterwards possibly a coating of titanium primer to increase reflectivity.
The issue here is whether this would increase hotspotting as well.

Then, depending on what primer is used and how much I want to balance its reflectivity with that of the surface paint, one or more coats of white paint - yet to be determined.
There was a lead from Alan Gouger for screen paints - did anyone follow up on this? http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/Forum9/HTML/000022.html

A friend suggested an idea to choose among paints:
Hold up a flashlight (do full spectrum flashlight bulbs exist?) to the top of the paint cans and find the one that reflects the most light WITHOUT REFLECTING THE IMAGE OF THE LAMP!
This technique should hold true for other surfaces - fabric, synthetics or paper.
His contention is that we need a screen surface that reflects light while scattering it somewhat rather than just directly bouncing it off.
Maybe for this reason it would also be better to retain some texture to the screen surface rather than make it totally smooth?

Ham,

You are quite right that the cheapest way to go, if you plan on making a painted screen, would be to use as a support the wall that you already have. However, is it totally flat?
This could be an issue for converging and focusing your projector. (In Europe, older walls are seldom flat, and often the newer ones aren't that much better, with poorly aligned sheetrock). The coating you apply will also be a critical base treatment, if only to cover the tape around the edges. You may want to check out Raoul's second post in this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/002213.html

You are quite right to question the role of the surface texture in light reflection. In art (paintings) there is a noticeable difference between the luminosity of those painted on canvas, on wood, on ivory or on copper. And that is with alot of texture from the paint itself. But even if you think that some sort of weave is preferable, you could always apply a layer of the synthetic fabric that is used to prevent cracks in plaster cielings, a thin synthetic woven veil that could lend a "screen texture" provided that you use a very thin layer of paint over it.

Let us know if you try a coat of silver first, though I think titanium is considered to be the most reflective? Some issues with silver are here: http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/Forum9/HTML/000215.html

As for the FP versus RP debate: The exerience of viewing a image with the light coming at you is quite different from that of light reflected off a surface. The latter is similar to the movie theater, as it follows the same principle, whereas the former is more like a direct view TV. FP in ambiant light also depends on the technology you use.
For daylight viewing without light control (blinds, heavy curtains...) you'll be forced to either go with a high brightness front projection such as LCD/DLP/D-ILA or if you choose a CRT projector (for deeper blacks, truer colors...) then you would have to go with a curved screen (14 gain!) but it could hurt with respect to picture distortion and viewing angle.
For that last option, see post by Alan Gouger, of AV Science fame, How to build a curved screen: http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/Forum9/HTML/000040.html

Monsoon,

You're definitely on to something!

This is exactly the type of product that the commercial screenmakers can't realistically put on the market because of its fragility for shipping and handling, and the extra care the customers would need to exercise in its use.

But for our purposes, it may well yield picture performance that even the best brand-name screens in the world couldn't match? Who knows...maybe Faroudja will demo with our finds at the next CES? <g> In any case, it just goes to prove that in pooling our ideas, the dynamics of combined ingenuity just can't be beat.

Would you know if Sentinel or Milano can provide samples for testing?
Hope we can get to the bottom of this.


------------------

Brett
post #38 of 152
David O.

A possible source for wider (72") blackout fabric.


The cost is $10 per yd. If you want to order we need cridit card #.

Thank You
J Gimbel new email# lengim@aol.com
post #39 of 152
Hi Bret,

Yes, both companies will send you a nice folder containing 8 1/2 x 11 sheets of all the materials they sell. You might want to tell them your company is in the process of purchasing a large format inkjet and you were tasked with getting samples and pricing.

I get my G11 tomorrow, but the ceiling mount hasn't shipped yet... I'll keep you posted as I have some of these samples on hand myself to test when I get this thing up and running. I'm still pulling AC and AV cables through the walls, so it might be about a week.

- monsoon
post #40 of 152
Ok I know I'm horrible at getting the info to you guys but better Nate than Lever! Anyway...

The label on the can I used says
"Superpaint Interior Flat Laytex" "Luminous White" Part Number 9911-99993

Also I used the best grade of canvas they had the art supply store, and it did not have any primer. I just started painting right on the canvas. You can not really see the grain of the canvas anymore.

As far as light passing through... ZERO! I painted it pretty thick!

Hope this helps! Now if I could just finish that wall!

Sam
post #41 of 152
Thread Starter 
Thanks Monsoon!
Thanks Sam!

------------------

Brett
post #42 of 152
Hi guys,
have been reading all your replies with great interest.I have just knocked up a screen using that fabric curtain liner(blockout).I must say it looks good,but am unable to test at this stage as my projector is on order.This forum has been very educational,thanks heaps.
post #43 of 152
Thread Starter 
Dinodog,

Glad you found & framed the fabric and steered David O. to the right store in Australia - he'd been looking for it for weeks. It would be interesting to us here to read your impressions once you've thrown a picture at it. Do you plan to go LCD, DLP, D-ILA or CRT?

Cheers,

------------------

Brett
post #44 of 152
Brett,
I've got a mitsubishi lvps50u LCD projector on back order at present.These units are the ducks nuts at the moment,here in australia anyway.On paper they seem to outperform alot of other units,and the price is spot on also.
I have to wait untill june/july to get one as mitsubishi hasn't any available due to the demand,they can't keep up.I haven't seen or heard much about DLP Projectors,not many retailers have such units,to be quite honest i haven't even seen one.LCD & CRT are popular, but i've decided to go for lcd for price & features, & now the picture quality of these machine are getting better also. & light output was also a consideration as i use my HT room for just about everything.
cheers
dino
post #45 of 152
So, I've got my screen hacked together. 92x52, black felt on 1x4s, and blackout fabric. I haven't stretched the fabric yet, just have it tacked in the corners and the middle. My problem is that the screen reflects everywhere and lights up the room. My walls are a flat medium taupe, so I thought that might not light up too much.

Will stretching the screen fix, at least most of, this? Does a draper/da-lite/etc screen have the same properties or do they focus the reflections away from the wall? Is my problem that I have a 10' room and a 8' screen? Will a small screen lessen the effect of the light on the walls?

Thanks

Gary
post #46 of 152
Thanks to those on the group I finally got my screen material - it's called "White cotton 3-pass" - I assume it has more vinyl on it than the other types.

First impressions are that the white flat material is just as good as tyhe shiny - but slightly less white - vinyl side.

Now for mounting, like the others here I was going to use a wooden frame and a staple gun but as I was wandering through my local hardware store I had a brainwave (?) and thought "fly-screens!" I bought the aluminium frame I need and the tools to press the screen material into the crack where the flyscreen material usually goes.

It's a pretty good looking frame - sort of anodised silver, but bronze etc. is also available. Also it will be light and easy to hang.

I *think* it will work - I'll let you know how it goes.
post #47 of 152
Thread Starter 
http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/biggrin.gif Cool idea David!

How stiff are they? Though aluminum will be straighter than wood, it will tend to bend if you stretch the fabric tightly. Unless you guys get higher grade heavy duty industrial aluminum channels that resist our HT manhandling...

I remember seeing fly screen doors in the US in both dark brown and black. But I guess any color would be OK if you just line the front edge of it with strips of black or grey felt.

The problem might be the maximum size of these - though in the US they are available for large bay windows, in Europe where flies are less of a plague and windows are considerably smaller it may be a lot less cost-effective requiring a surcharge for custom ordering.

------------------

Brett
post #48 of 152
Hi Brett,

This is Australia mate, flies are not a problem - got millions of the little buggers!

You can buy bracing for the flyscreen made out of the same material. That means it should be sturdy enough to stretch the material sufficiently.

There are many finishes available - some too glossy like bright white, but there are dull silver and bronze finishes (as well as a matt brown) that might not need any special treatment - plus it will look good which is important as I will be installing in my (or rather my *wife's*) living room.

Didn't get around to making this yesterday - spent Anzac Day crawling through my ceiling space trying to install cables for my projector. I'll let you know how it goes next week.
post #49 of 152
This is an interesting thread on homemade screens. I first looked at screens and saw that they (pricewise) where way out of my reach. I decided to roll my own. I have access to over 3000 of the best acryic paint mixtures on the planet.

This is what I have come up with. First the sheetrock is coated with a latex primer. pure white, of course. Then a layer of pure white latex paint to finish the initial base. Flat or gloss, your choice. The next layer consists of this Gesso that I have been using. It is the premium grade gesso from this company I have been working with. The average brand of gesso you see at an artist's supply shop has approximately 1/4 the white (chalk) pigment of the stuff I am using. This stuff is in a gel form... It just will not carry any more pigment. The wall is coated twice with a a layer of this stuff in a thinned format. Absolutely matte, and the purest white availible. (not an egaggerated 'whiter than white') Then the next two to three layers are an adjusted layering of four different ingredients. This is the actual screen paint itself.

I have used pure white gesso before, in a smooth and textured format as well. Both had staggering color purity, but suffered in ability to cast proper levels of contrasting, down at the the deepest blacks and the brightest whites. The detail brought on by subtle levels of contrasting was fantastic, but the three dimensionality of the presentation suffered quite a bit. The proper, satisfactory settings for the projector where nowhere in sight. Pure white gesso is great for the contrasting in the medium brightness range, but everywhere else it suffers. Way to many problems with ambient light, or reflection back onto the screen...

The reason I mention the problems with the gesso is that these will probably also occur with just about any other matte white situation. I have a feeling it will occur to a lesser extent if the material is extremely flat and does not have a textured characteristic. This would cause less ambient light problems. These comments apply strictly to matte white screens.

The screen paint I have devised will be availible soon, in the form of a DIY kit, with instructions. The kit will cost somewhere between 50-75% more than the retail prices of the separate components themselves. This is an absolute minimal markup and is not something I would be making money on. (not much anyway) The nature of the paint ingredients will be closely held not because I am greedy; it is just that I don't want anyone going commercial with my efforts. This is DIY, and I want it to stay that way. I am hoping to make enough to get some cash towards a better projector. (right now it is a modified electrohome ECP 3000)

Check out the thread on custom screen paint.. I am looking for beta testers in the Ottawa to Toront area in ontario, Canada.

Incidentally, I am typing this message while using the final beta version of the paint right now. It looks fantastic. Color saturation is just nuts...

[This message has been edited by KBK (edited May 01, 2000).]
post #50 of 152
Thread Starter 
KBK,

Glad someone working in the paint industry is a DIY screener. If you've been investing large amounts of time and energy into the formulation of a custom designed miracle screen paint - I readily understand that you wouldn't want some lazy paint company to just scoop it up and can it for profit. http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/frown.gif

Your initiative of a screen kit sounds like a good idea in that respect, and I'm sure we HTers can understand your wanting a better projector to more fully enjoy your liquid experimentations. http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/wink.gif

If you are going "semi-commercial" with this DIY kit, you might want to get some measures on its gain and viewing angle, hotspotting performance, you know all that standard stuff people are concerned about when deciding to buy a screen. It would also be helpful to test the kit with floor and cieling mounting as well as different technology projectors.

Wise call for Beta testers. My solid plaster wall has just been smoothed and I'd pay shipping if you'd accept a European satellite test site. http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/rolleyes.gif
(If so it could also serve as a demo site where European enthusiasts could see your mix in use.)

------------------

Brett
post #51 of 152
Having a european test site could be interesting.. But here's something I don't mind parting with...

In Canada, in the toronto area the film companies all seem to use a specific paint for blackout or 'masking'. ie. a true matte black, good enough for filming. It is a product from Pratt and Lambert paints. I think it is described as being just a matte black.

The acryic paint guys I am working with also produce an artist grade matte black gesso for painting canvases as well as the white gesso. Their matte black is of a ridiculous grade compared to most (or any) home paint.

I found the "RALPH LAUREN" line of paints all over the kingston area, and it is a Sherwin Williams product. Their "design studio white" is one of -if not the most- white latex paints I have seen in in the world of consumer availibility.

If this is representative of the Sherwin Williams whites, then it just aint white enough. High grade gesso's are better. If the good stuff is nowhere in sight, then try this. Buy a pint of the Ralph Lauren design studio white. put half of it ito a mixing container. Buy some pre-thinned (ready to use)gesso from an arist shop. About 500ml should do. Toss it into the ralph lauren mix. Make shure you have purchased MATTE GESSO... This will calm down the gloss characteristic of the Ralph Lauren paint. It may be avilible in somethig other than the semi-gloss that I saw.

Before you do all that, find a GLIDDEN paint store. They sell the PEARLESENT mix in a powder form so you can add it to any paint.


Use some fairly wide pieces of wood or drywall as a test bed. They don't have to be tall, just wide, so you can see across the screen. (so you can check for hotspotting) try different small batches out, slowly increasing the amount of pearlesent untill you can't get any more into the paint. The titanium white particle size in the white paints tends to be so small that it is very difficult to dope the paint with too much pearl, but when you do, you will know, for it will become unuseable very quickly. A good mixture will be well below the point where the pearl will cause streaking in the liquid mixture. Have fun. remember your ratios, and you will be able to repeat a useable mixture. If you think you will need it again, then buy some extra supply of the pearlesent powder mix, as these things have a habit of disappearing without notice...

My understanding of the Sherwin Williams paint is that it has a pearlesent ingredient in it, thus the 'Luminous' in the name.

[This message has been edited by KBK (edited May 01, 2000).]
post #52 of 152
Guys,

I realize that these pics don't look anywhere near as good as they do in person, but here's an example of my Draper M2500 (52" x 96") screen used with a NEC CRT projector. The pictures were taken with a Kodak digital camera from 12' feet away (front row).

http://www.mindspring.com/~daalcorn/dman13.jpg

http://www.mindspring.com/~daalcorn/dman16.jpg



------------------
DMan
The Academy Home Theater
post #53 of 152
Thread Starter 
Nice shots!

Just think how much better they could look if you had KBK's magic gesso screen paint? By the way, what film is that n° 19 Jpeg screenshot of yours from? (spaceships in battle) Also, what projector and scaling do you use? Thanks for the further details.

Cheers,

------------------

Brett
post #54 of 152
Yes! Yoo Too can Trowel A busload of KBK's TrustY Rusty Screen Goo on your walls! Participate now and recieve a free 'Lifesize Cardboard Usher Standup' with voice attachment that will tell annoying relatives and friends to leave when they have worn out their welcome...Comeplete with remote and cute selectable lines like: "pardon me sir, there is no urinating in the aisles", or, "Such behavior is against the geneva convention, you'll have to leave", and 48 other entertaining sidesplitters.... etc., etc., etc...

[This message has been edited by KBK (edited May 03, 2000).]
post #55 of 152
Thread Starter 
KBK...

Your experimentation has caused quite a STIR!

With the commercial intro to your last post you sent my hopes soaring - thought that there might be a pre-release kit available.

Actually, if 2 pints (1 of primer and 1 of your final coating mix) are enough for a screen, then shipping to France wouldn't be prohibitive. Obviously I'd be glad to defray all costs and assidiously report back.

Once your blend is close to finalized, you still may want to run an A/B/C comparison with say an M2500 and an M1300? Posting the screen shots would help take the guesso work http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/wink.gif out of the purchase decision.

------------------

Brett
post #56 of 152
Brett,

I'm using a NEC 6PG Plus CRT projector and a Crystal Image scaler outputting at 1280x720p. The screen is a Draper M2500 110" (52"x96") Cineperm.

The spaceship scene: www.mindspring.com/~daalcorn/dman19.jpg is from Starship Troopers and really shows how good your black levels can be with CRT projection.



------------------
DMan
The Academy Home Theater
post #57 of 152
I just got through doing a search for Blackout Fabric and I found a Company that sells Screen Material as well as Blackout Fabric. I was just wondering if anybody has checked out and or priced the Screen Material.

Solar Reflective

Click on Fabrics.
post #58 of 152
Thread Starter 
HomeImax,

Ooooops, slipped up there Peter - glad to hear in person from the inventor of home theater. As you'll note, there are some dedicated experimenters in this thread - some are budget driven while others are insatiable tweakers. (most of us are newbies, and we sure could use some of your apex vision)

Yes, I thought that there was something familiar peering out from under that Dwarf suit at Eurodisney. (You said this short fellow's great great grandmother used to pose for Toulouse Lautrec?)

If you are into 19th century art I'm an amateur myself, and live on the same block as the artists paint shop that originally sold to most of the impressionists - they held in their hands many of our cherished museum masterpieces in powder or tube form. Actually it was their initiative in tubing colors that enabled "on location" painting, and thus impressionism. Should you wander over to this side of the footbath, I'll show you where I just got the French Gesso and Dutch Apeldoorn Titaneum White "Rembrandt" paint for my future Homemade Panoramic Screen. (interesting posts by KBK)

But as, much to my dismay, I'm rather awkward with a paintbrush, I'll have to let the masters of the 7th Art paint this canvas for me in living color. (2.35:1 or better, which should get no argument from you?)

I haven't had time to follow up on your lead for Latex or vinyl from the Lyon fabric producing region - and am somewhat more attracted to the easily modified surface treatments one can improvise on a paint-based custom screen. Yes "Custom Screen" would certainly sound more upmarket to some, but it fails to reflect the degree of commitment and dedication (elbow grease?) that is better illustrated by the term "Homemade".

Let us know should you have an inkling or educated guess as to successful screen formulation secrets - yes, I know, it is kind of like stained glass in the 17th century - except that instead of killing knowledgable craftsmen before they speak they now wait to sue them afterwards... http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/wink.gif

Cheers,

------------------

Brett
post #59 of 152
Thread Starter 
Peter,

Read you in other threads... some interesting stuff indeed.

As always with good ideas, they are an accident waiting to happen.
My neighbor in this building is an accomplished painter, and I had thought of commissioning her to paint a panoramic skyscape or ocean view to cover my screen with. But I'm too busy pouring good money after bad into my HT to make this a short term prospect. But she is gifted, and would be game, mostly being commissioned by theaters and restaurants for their painted decors.

Furthermore, at least in Europe, art canvases are nailed to the rear of their frames, so a double-sided frame would need to be nailed to its outer edge.

However, I have qualms about handling paintings too much, even moreso slapping them against the wall face down (please...any art worth its salt deserves more respect than that!).
But your idea has me reconsidering another possibility: one could cieling mount a framed painting in front of the screen, using it as a neutral backdrop (or use velvet masking curtains fully closed behind it).

That way it wouldn't be a hazardous 2 person screen-flipping job each time you want to watch a movie. Just a simple task of unhooking a painting. I like to change my decor fairly often, and this way nothing would preclude you from changing artwork without having to build a new HT screen.

However, if I could commission the world's first parabolic painting...

------------------

Brett
post #60 of 152
Thread Starter 
Scott,

I had been waiting for those in this thread who had experimented with the curtain blackout material to step in - that just might turn the trick, as it is apparently fairly rigid. You might want to check with one or more of those who posted earlier to find out if in their estimation it would possibly remain flat after being rolled up, and wouldn't require too much tensioning. Aside from that, you might look into industrial sized roll-down shades? Maybe we'll get some better ideas in the next posts...

------------------

Brett
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Screens
This thread is locked  
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Screens › Best fabric for Homemade Screen?