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My DIY mount for L300u $20 :) - Page 5

post #121 of 327
I just made a projector mount and used two pieces of wood, one to mount the projector to and one to mount to the ceiling. I have four semi-adjustable legs that connect the two (using 3 inch nuts, bolts and washers).

They did have the 4 mm bolts at home depot (up to 70mm long I think). If you can't find them at your store try looking for the drawers of parts as they were all separated into metric drawers at out home depot.


Anway, thanks to everyone that posted here, I think I have a nice working mount and I did not spend more than $10. I had a surround sound speaker mount from Radio Shack before but it was too flimsy and not very adjustable. This new one should work much better.
post #122 of 327
Thanks for the design, here is my mounted 500!

Wes

post #123 of 327
How hard was it for you guys to mount the Panasonic since this mount design does not allow for a horizontal shift?
My screen is set up so how do I go about making sure that the projector fills the screen without the left or right edge being a little off of one side?
Mine is on its way and I am afraid of how difficult getting it up in the right spot is going to be.
post #124 of 327
here is my 300u mount.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...69#post4085369

with the above mounts it is tricky to horizontally mount unless the beam is conveniently above the position or you use board above the PJ that connect to the joists that the mount can then be installed to with more flexibility
post #125 of 327
Darrinh, I thought about this when I first saw MM's impressive mount. I was thinking where the lower flange screws into the first piece of plexiglass, you could drill/router parallel tracks so it could be shifted horizontally, then the screws re-tightened. Just my .02
post #126 of 327
Thread Starter 
Lightjug is right. I was going to do that but I didn't have to because I was right on with my placement. However when I moved I couldn't get it right wih my 500u. Since then I bought the z2 and I didn't that feature with the lens shift on the z2.
post #127 of 327
If you dont mind me asking, why did you move from the 500u to the Z2?
Thanks
post #128 of 327
Thread Starter 
post #129 of 327
Thanks Monkey, Great reading in that post!
post #130 of 327
Quote:


Originally posted by Monkey_Man
Lightjug is right. I was going to do that but I didn't have to because I was right on with my placement. However when I moved I couldn't get it right wih my 500u. Since then I bought the z2 and I didn't that feature with the lens shift on the z2.

MM - I am thinking of building this mount with the horizontal shift.... do you have any concerns re: the strength of the plexi with the routed "slits" for the shift?

Thanks
post #131 of 327
Do you guys need any damping when you use these mounts? How are the springs working for those of you that use them?

Thanks,
post #132 of 327
I'm wondering if that plexiglass is strong enough to hold my 6.8lb infocus 4805.. anyone?
post #133 of 327
Thread Starter 
Yes without a doubt. Just get the 1/4 inch or thicker
post #134 of 327
I've finally had the time to take some pictures of my monkey_Man style mount for my AE700.

Sorry about the dust on the plexi- too lazy to get a rag for the pics .

I made some small but functionally significant modifications to the basic monkey_Man design and parts list.

I used fully threaded M4 x 70mm bolts (screws), to allow greater range of adjustment with the top side wing nuts. With the greater range, you can fine adjust the absolute height as well as the pitch and roll of the projector. Use the pipe flange for yaw.

I also replaced the lower projector-side wing nuts with Nyloc lock nuts. Nyloc nuts have a nylon insert that helps keep the nut in its final position on the bolt. The idea is to measure the depth of the threaded insert on the AE700 with one of the M4 bolts, marking the depth with a Sharpie or other marker or White Out. Remove the bolt from the AE700 after you establish the depth, then install the bolt, spring and washer hardware to the plexi plate per the pictures and guides in this thread.

Install the Nyloc nut to the mark you made- you will need to thread the nut over the mark until flush with the mark on the projector side on the bolt, opposite the head of the bolt. This sets the spring compression. You would then use a standard Philips screwdriver to drive the M4 70mm screws into the projector screw inserts. I find that a stubby ratchet type with removable bits is great for this. You should be able to drive the M4 70mm screw into the projector without affecting the spring compression, due to the lock nut.

Be sure NOT to over-tighten the M4 70mm screws, or you could bottom out the screw in the projector and pull out or loosen the molded in metal insert on the projector, causing damage that might not be covered under warranty. Setting the engagement depth slightly less than the full amount on the M4 screw should make the Nyloc nut bottom on the projector before the screw bottoms out in the insert.

I also went a size or two larger and stiffer on the springs listed early in the thread.

I initially had a hard time finding the metric hardware, but found a good selection at Murray's Ace Hardware at the Livonia/Redford, MI border at Inkster and Plymouth Roads, and Studz Hardware on Telegraph between Michigan and Van Born in Dearborn Heights.

Here is the first pic, front right view.

Please ignore the somewhat messy cabling- I am trying out several new cables and haven't nice-ified the wiring yet. I usually have the wires neatly tucked into black loom.
LL
post #135 of 327
Closeup of the right rear fastener stack, near the AE700 filter. I laid out the plexi so I can remove the filter without disturbing the projector as mounted. The filter easily clears the plexiglas with no interference.

I used dark smoked plexi. I scored and snapped to cut to size.

I plan to use a mini torch to finish the edges of the plexi.
LL
post #136 of 327
Closeup of the front-most two fastener stacks and the pipe flange.

From the projector underside ("top" when inverted) in
the attached photo, bottom to top of the stack:

Nyloc nut
finishing washer (concave design "cups", or retains, the spring)
spring
finishing washer
(plexiglass)
flat "fender" washer (fender washers have larger outside diameter (OD) than regular washers)
wingnut

The bolt/screw is a 70mm long fully threaded M4.

Lock washers not used in photo.
LL
post #137 of 327
Front isometric view.
LL
post #138 of 327
Closeup of the fastener stack from the left rear of the AE700, edge-on the plexi.
LL
post #139 of 327
Rear right isometric angle.
LL
post #140 of 327
Rear right shot with air filter partially removed, demonstrating clearance to plexiglas mount.

You only need less than 1/4" clearance.
LL
post #141 of 327
Thread Starter 
Very nice. I'm beginning to think I missed my own pet rock on this mount I'm glad so many people liked the mount. The adjustability is second to non.
post #142 of 327
Quote:


Originally posted by Monkey_Man
Very nice. I'm beginning to think I missed my own pet rock on this mount I'm glad so many people liked the mount. The adjustability is second to non.

You should patent the design, but I want credit for the Nyloc nut and Fully Threaded Fastener mods .

I don't know if you'd want to sell them, even as a kit of parts, due to product liability issues- the first time someone's projector falls from the mount and burns their house down or kills/hurts someone, it would RUIN your day . You couldn't afford product liability insurance....

That said, I feel this mount is superior in every way to the OEM and Chief mounts I've used in the past, which is just $200 thrown away, as you've got to give them away when you sell the mating projector...
post #143 of 327
I used 1 1/2" PVC pipe for the mount. Textured flat black spray paint everthing. It allows the VGA and DVI connectors through [with some minor triming on the DVI connector] the mount for a clean look.
LL
post #144 of 327
Midlife: I'd like to know why you used two plates on the projector end of the mount. It doesn't look bad at all, but I couldn't figure out the purpose.


The overall monkeyman design: Could you really patent the assembly of a handful of industry standard piping and hardware? The funny thing is that this is nothing new. I've used the same "technology" to hang speakers 10 years ago.



Bobby
post #145 of 327
I used two plates because I couldn't find metric screws long enough.
I used SAE hardware for the adjustments which are made from the top plate. I used 1/4" masonite [peg-board without holes.] and painted black.
I didn't use springs, didn't feel the need to. Once set, projector usually doesn't ever need to move again.
Same concept, different design.
I can also remove the projector without disturbing the alignment. Just back off the top nuts.
LL
post #146 of 327
Quote:


Originally posted by Bobby_M

The overall monkeyman design: Could you really patent the assembly of a handful of industry standard piping and hardware? The funny thing is that this is nothing new. I've used the same "technology" to hang speakers 10 years ago.

Bobby

All patented manufactured things could be considered just "a handful of industry standard" parts and materials . It's the combination, configuration and final function that matters.

While I was kind of kidding re: patenting, it's not so far fetched, considering the HUGE abuses of the patent system going on now among big IP holders and the software industry (can you say "one-click" patent? ).
post #147 of 327
I was about to purchase a mount for my Mitsubishi HC3, but after reading your thread I decided to build my own. A friend needed a mount for his projector also, so we built two today. It looks great and saved me a lot of money. It came together very easily. Great Idea

-Dan
post #148 of 327
you guys that have used this mount on their AE700's, how happy are you with that?
post #149 of 327
Thread Starter 
Should be the same results. This mount will work with any PJ under 10 pounds.
post #150 of 327
excellent... I will tackle it this or next weekend in preporation for my new house
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