or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP › My DIY mount for L300u $20 :)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

My DIY mount for L300u $20 :) - Page 9

post #241 of 327
The board on top is only really necessary if you mount location puts the top flange completely between joists. If you can get two of your flange holes directly under a joist, the top board is optional. Use screws into the joists and drywall anchors/molly bolts for the holes that don't line up on the joist.

I would even go as far as saying you could get away with simply using anchors (molly bolts are my favorite type) for all flange holes as long as your drywall is at least 1/2" thick.

I can't believe they're getting $200+ for a mount.

Bobby
post #242 of 327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post

The board on top is only really necessary if you mount location puts the top flange completely between joists. If you can get two of your flange holes directly under a joist, the top board is optional. Use screws into the joists and drywall anchors/molly bolts for the holes that don't line up on the joist.

I would even go as far as saying you could get away with simply using anchors (molly bolts are my favorite type) for all flange holes as long as your drywall is at least 1/2" thick.

I can't believe they're getting $200+ for a mount.

Bobby

Yeah, I know what you mean about the mount costs.

My problem is exactly as you describe. My joists run in the wrong direction for me to be able to use them well as mount points, and in order for me to center my FP, the mount point doesn't line up close to the joists, hence the board. So, now that we've covered that topic, what is the best way to mount the CMA-345, or in the case of this example, the flange. Using moly bolts as anchors going thru both the MDF and the drywall ceiling? Or will 1" lag screws into the MDF suffice?
post #243 of 327
Thread Starter 
Hey there, take a look at my 1st link on my signature if you already haven't. That board is a standard black shelving board found at home depot. I think its half inch, defiantly not over 3/4. My ceiling has metal floor joists so I used a screw designed for metal. I was praying they weren't water pipes That would have been pretty funny. My lease states that you can't uses screws on the walls but it didn't anything about the ceilings, LOL Thanks again for the feedback...love it! Post some shots of your creation.
post #244 of 327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey_Man View Post

Hey there, take a look at my 1st link on my signature if you already haven't. That board is a standard black shelving board found at home depot. I think its half inch, defiantly not over 3/4. My ceiling has metal floor joists so I used a screw designed for metal. I was praying they weren't water pipes That would have been pretty funny. My lease states that you can't uses screws on the walls but it didn't anything about the ceilings, LOL Thanks again for the feedback...love it! Post some shots of your creation.

Monkey. Interesting, my recollection of the HD shelving is that it is made of particle board, not near as strong as either wood or MDF. If that's the case then I'm confident my 3/4" MDF will more than suffice. I did just learn that apparently I'm better off using sheetmetal screws with MDF than wood screws, interestingly enough. Once I get my install done I'll post up pics!
post #245 of 327
Monkey-
Love the mount! I'm upgrading from my 4805 to the 900. My Peerless mount for the 4805 is such a PITA, I had to come up with something else. So I came across your thread after a quick search. I liked RGB's mods, so I went that direction.
An hour and $18 later:

Thanks! -j
post #246 of 327
Nice job Skyman!

Question to all -

I built a mount using this design back when I got my Z-1 projector. It worked great, so when I upgraded to an AE-900 I made a new plexi plate and kept the rest.

The Z-1 had only 3 mounting holes and the 900 has 4. I found the 3-hole setup much easier to adjust when lining up the projector. Has anyone else had this problem? Has anyone tried leaving one off and just using 3 of the 4?

It looks like that's what Imageek2 did, but it's hard to tell for sure from the picture. BTW, I love the cutting board idea...

DE
post #247 of 327
Do the springs serve any functional purpose in this design?

They do look nice, but I was curious if that is their only purpose here?
post #248 of 327
I don't think the springs are necessary. They are pushing the PJ away from the plate, but gravity is already doing that. In fact, my design doesn't even use wingnuts as I make slight adjustments simply by unthreading out of the PJ's bosses a little. Of course, you have to be careful that you don't fully unscrew from the PJ.



Bobby
post #249 of 327
Skyman,

Good work on the mount. I am considering buying the panny 900 very soon. What size/type screws did you use for mounting the piece to the pj itself? Are they the same as what monkey man used?


Any hely would be awesome.

I have the parts list from monkeymans original design, but with the 900, I want oto make sure I buy the proper stuff.

Thank you,

Brandon
post #250 of 327
Yes, they are the same screws as Monkey and RGB listed: 4mm x 70mm.
Here's RGB's modded list:
"Nyloc nut
finishing washer (concave design "cups", or retains, the spring)
spring
finishing washer
(plexiglass)
flat "fender" washer (fender washers have larger outside diameter (OD) than regular washers)
wingnut
The bolt/screw is a 70mm long fully threaded M4.
Lock washers not used in photo."
-j
post #251 of 327
Thank you,

I will pick these parts up when the time comes. Any thoughts as to if these parts will work on the panny's 900 replacement, the ax100 in case I splurge and buy this one?

Thanks again guys,

Brandon
post #252 of 327
This mount is a helluva lot more sturdy/stable than my old Peerless mount.
Also, very easy to adjust whereas the Peerless was super tricky/touchy. -j
post #253 of 327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post

I don't think the springs are necessary. They are pushing the PJ away from the plate, but gravity is already doing that. In fact, my design doesn't even use wingnuts as I make slight adjustments simply by unthreading out of the PJ's bosses a little. Of course, you have to be careful that you don't fully unscrew from the PJ.



Bobby


The springs would really be necessary if you convert this mount in to a floor
standing stand holding the PJ with a very heavy base. In that case gravity
would come in to play.
post #254 of 327
Ok, I'm building this mount tonight. I found this thread earlier this week. I fought the urge for 3 days, but yesterday I went and bought the materials.

Mine will have a short rod of only 3 inches. I have just a 7'6" ceiling and I wanna keep it high.

My new 900 just doesn't fit my other homemade mount and it looks so awesome, it needs a new pirch anyway.

My other mount was 3 years ago and I didn't know about this forum so I developed the idea just out of necessity alone.

It incorporated a VCR mount that would hang under a wall mounted TV. I modified it and included a hinge with a sping mechanism that would absorb the shock of my upstairs neighbors when they randomly decided to do hall bowling or cheerleading tryouts or whatever they did.

They may have just had one LARGE resident who often had the urge to try and recreate thunder.

Nonetheless, it worked well, my picture would shack but I never had a bulb go less than 3600 hours.

This mount will be much cleaner and I no longer have people above me.

When I go to a house at some point I can just get a new rod section of whatever length I want.
post #255 of 327
I like the mount MM very simple design that works. I just redesigned and built a new mount for my projector out of some very simular parts. I had origionaly purchased one of the speaker mound derived projector mounts off ebay and havent had any real problems except for the mount ball moving over a weeks span. The reason that I had to build a new mount is I fliped the room 180 due to the sun comming down my basement stairs and hitting the corner of the screen. When the room is fliped there is and 11 inch beam in the way so the projector has to project the imiage under the beam. I have corrected the problem buy still using the same ball mounted into a rubber sleave with a metal friction washer on it. I also use a floor flange with a pice of metal pipe that also has vertical adjustment. I have just finished the mount and will post some pictures tomarrow. I belive that the part I used for vertical adjustment will work on the mounts that all or you have used. I purchased it at LOWES for about 4 dollars and it range up to about six dollars for the larger than 1 inch pipe.
post #256 of 327
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyman00 View Post

Yes, they are the same screws as Monkey and RGB listed: 4mm x 70mm.
Here's RGB's modded list:
"Nyloc nut
finishing washer (concave design "cups", or retains, the spring)
spring
finishing washer
(plexiglass)
flat "fender" washer (fender washers have larger outside diameter (OD) than regular washers)
wingnut
The bolt/screw is a 70mm long fully threaded M4.
Lock washers not used in photo."
-j

where did you get the 4mmx70mm bolts from?
post #257 of 327
Thread Starter 
I recommend a small local hardware store. I couldn't find any at places like lowes or home depot.
post #258 of 327
You can also find them at hobby shops.

Now if I can just find the stupid 2.6mmbolts for my Optoma H27...
post #259 of 327
I have a metalcraft mount I bought from ebay and found that it has a problem when someone walks above the projector it will cause the projector to bounce (oscillate) for a few seconds before it settles down. I think it is due the the design of the mount and I want to try adapting it to be more like this mount. If I touch my projector to press a button or focus it etc it causes the same oscillating bounce that lasts a few seconds (3-5). Does this mount suffer the same problem? I would plan to use a short down tube of about 6 to 8" at 1.5" diameter steel pipe. Mounted to steel flanges. I am just looking to get rid of the bounce. I don't mind if I see one bounce when someone walks or stomps above it my problem is with the oscillation that last 3 to 5 seconds.

thanks,
Brendin
post #260 of 327
Turned the metal craft mount into a monkey man mount and added some rubber vibration dampers to the top flange.
LL
LL
LL
post #261 of 327
I like this mount idea, but I need mine to be realy realy short. My projector is the Optoma HD70. The HD70 apears to have quite abit of verticle offset. From what I understand, the offset is 33%, so if I have a 46" screen height, the offset is 46x0.33=15.8" My room is 7'2", or 86". So if the lens were even with my ceiling, the bottom of my screen would be at 86"-15.8"-46"= 24.2". This seams about where I want it, or perhaps a little lower, maybe 20 inches minimum. Unfortunatly the lens is not even with the ceiling, and if I use a monkeyman style mount, I'll be down even lower. I'll assume the lens is about halfway or 2" down, and I still need room for a mount. Did anyone design a "slimline" mount? Or are their other options? I assume tilting and keystoning are no-no's so I realy want to avoid this.
post #262 of 327
Quote:
Originally Posted by xnaron View Post

Turned the metal craft mount into a monkey man mount and added some rubber vibration dampers to the top flange.


I ended up going this route with the mount...http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8837225
post #263 of 327
Well, I have to say that this mount idea is brilliant! I will be building one like this soon for an HD70 - I will go "shelf style" (have to mount to the back wall) with a wider mount and the PJ under the shelf Simple... WAY adjustible. Clean. KISS. It is difficult for any mount to get metter than this IMHOP in terms of performance/price aspect.

Kudos.
post #264 of 327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imageek2 View Post

Here is my version of the Monkey_Man mount. It is an apartment setup so I was reluctant to put holes in the ceiling, plus the unit is probably 30 years old. I trusted the wall studs more than the ceiling to hold up my projector. The polycarbonate material used was a cutting board from a large retail chain. Someone else in this thread did the same thing and it works quite well. The handle cutout of the board actually gives me access to a screw needed to remove the filter for cleaning. In the photos you can see I used 3 wingnuts per m4 screw. I was going to use the middle set to lock the projector in place once I had it adjusted but I have since removed them. They got in the way more than anything. The only problem with the mount is that it is easily prone to being moved, so it probably wouldn't be great if your wall is subject to lots of vibrations. I haven't had any problems so far.

Tagged!
post #265 of 327
I'm glad this got brought back up. I'd like to thank MM again for this as it saved me big $. I just replaced my X1 with an IN72 and was able to use the same mount, just drill new holes in the plate. It still looks great.
post #266 of 327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twehttam View Post

I'm glad this got brought back up. I'd like to thank MM again for this as it saved me big $. I just replaced my X1 with an IN72 and was able to use the same mount, just drill new holes in the plate. It still looks great.

Twehttam,

What holes did you use on the bottom of your IN72 for mounting on MM's design?
post #267 of 327
Wow! Great info in this thread.

One question I didn't see answered (or simply missed) --- how do you ensure the projector is perpendicular to the screen when using threaded pipes? Is it as simple as tightening the mount to the pipe until it is tight, but facing in the right direction? This would mean it wasn't as tight as it could be. Seems like there may be some trick here I'm missing.

Thanks

... Altan
post #268 of 327
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMyers View Post

Wow! Great info in this thread.

One question I didn't see answered (or simply missed) --- how do you ensure the projector is perpendicular to the screen when using threaded pipes? Is it as simple as tightening the mount to the pipe until it is tight, but facing in the right direction? This would mean it wasn't as tight as it could be. Seems like there may be some trick here I'm missing.

Thanks

... Altan

Easy, mount the top flange to the ceiling or board, mark and screw in. Then screw in the bottom flange on the pipe----using a magic marker, mark where it hits your acrylic. Then drill those holes...viola, straight on mate!
post #269 of 327
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by amisam View Post

Easy, mount the top flange to the ceiling or board, mark and screw in. Then screw in the bottom flange on the pipe----using a magic marker, mark where it hits your acrylic. Then drill those holes...viola, straight on mate!

You got it. This is one of the reasons I used plexi glass in the first place!!!
post #270 of 327
Props to Monkey, curses to the builders of my apartment complex.

After a _itch of a time trying to find the joists, I ended up with the old drill till you find it method....23 inches apart? wtf? lol anyway, I am limited on space so I threw up a 3x26x1 inch of oak and drilled into the joists, ofcourse pre-drilling the oak, don't want to split it.

From there the only change I made was the acrylic. I went with 1/2 ply because my flange is mounted towards the rear and the acrylic was giving me a lot of flex. I also used wing nuts exclusively on the 50mm screws, it's great leveling this thing, I highly recommend this.

Thanks Monkeyman, you da monkey!

PS ignore the pencil marks, they must have laid down some metal drywall mesh or something? So much for the stud finder!
LL
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP › My DIY mount for L300u $20 :)