Guess what? Intrepid souls who know NO fear have indeed stretched DIY screen performance to the limits of reality.
This thread, and other Tryg endeavors have stirred many.
And to all rights,(...and considerable credit...) many of Trygs posts and reviews were the basis of our R&D, as were the elements and concepts behind Goo, an excellent product itself that can figure into our designs when financially applicable. And DDog, where ever he may dwell, pioneered a few of the most important elements. What goes around, comes around, and what is old is new once more. The world turns.
Using a Plexiglas base, coated on both sides with special paint combinations, the SuperDeluxe/MississippiMud screen delivers as bright an image as any High Gain screen, with detail that is exacting, and a color correctness that effectively surpasses those screens costing over 8-10 times the expense of the DIY materials.
Variations on this scheme, using Hardboard or Parkland as a substrate still deliver results that amaze viewers and will confound and distress Screen Mfgs.
To wit, and in a nutshell, here are the basics. We have complete instructions posted elsewhere.
1 - 1/8" thick x 4' x 8' or larger Plexiglas sheet.
1 - Quart of Kilz2 Primer with 1/96 Oz of Lamp Black added to create a Grey background for.........*
1 - Quart Beir Silver Metallic.
Initial step. Roll, or HVLP Spray (much preferred) 2 coatings of the Silver Metallic onto one side of the Plexi Then, apply the Grey primer over the top of the silver (..which is, of course, the back of the silver...)
* MM Top Coat.
(All Paints are "Flat" Acrylic Latex)
1 Quart Beir Deep Base (1300)
1 Quart Beir Beir Ultra Pure White
1 Quart Beir "White Opal" Pearlescence (Faux Paint)
2 1/96 Oz. Droplets of Lamp Black
1 1/96 Oz. Droplet of Thallo Green
Must be mixed throughly at the "Depot" via the Shaker for two 5 min. cycles
Flop the Plexi over and apply the first layer of MM Top Coat*. Roll, or spray (...again, spraying is much preferred.) If you roll, you must lightly wet sand the first coat using a Large, Medium/Fine Sanding sponge, throughly wetted and rung out, and evenly swept across the surface.
Roll or spray another coat.
All coats MUST be DRY before wet sanding or following up with the next coat. I employ the Earle Schiebe "Blast 'em Dry" method by using a small Propane Reddi Heater directed at the center from 6' and two 500 watt lamps directed at each side end at the bottom edge. This will allow 1 hour drying times for rolled finishes and 15-20 minute times for sprayed finishes. Otherwise, expect 24 and 4 hour times respectively at room temperature and longer at cooler temps.
Mount Plexi on any lightweight but rigid material, frame with any number of methods, hang where desired. Enjoy.
Yeah....way oversimplified, but essentially that's it. Painting skills, either previously acquired or gleaned from instructions also available, will make all the difference. If your really good at rolling thicker paints, and take some time to learn a deft touch at wet sanding, you can achieve as smooth finish akin to glass as you could imagine. The MM Top Coat and Goo Top Coats both feel slick & wet to the touch if applied properly.
The Great Texture Debate.
No debate necessary. Ever see a texture like Tryg's Silver above on a screen of any design? I bet you haven't! That texture is merely a better than usual result of a good roll job. Perhaps as good as any good achieve without additional wet sanding.
For the record, texture is not desired. For it to be necessary to offset overt reflectivity is the same as saying you have to have speed bumps every 100 yards on the Freeway. It's counterproductive to create adverse angles of refraction for any reason. Light waves of all spectrum's should ideally reflect back at angles determined by their specific wavelengths. First surface mirrors are used in RPTVs because they offer ideally the highest percentage of reflectivity. (93% to 97%)
If you can achieve a 'virtually' perfect blend of overall reflectivity (gain) without graininess, and maintain color correctness by getting light to reflect according to its preference and not according to conditions, then you should never need to consider texture as a counterbalance.
Mirrors were considered, and in keeping, tests with Aluminum paint and Aluminum foil backing Plexiglas were tried and dismissed. A truly bright silver metallic was zeroed in on. It delivered high reflectivity, but not so high as to create overt hotspotting, and a sharpness that highlighted detail to the point of graininess. Many entry level PJs (LCDs) have both low luminosity values (600-800 Lumens) and SDE to worry about, and our directed efforts were to offset such vagrancies but keep on screen luminosity high.
X1s and their ilk have an easier time of it, what with their excellent contrast ratio and increased Lumen specs. many souls swear by the images they get up on raw Parkland! Even High Lumen PJs (1500 to 2200) and Mustang 2 Chip based PJs can benefit greatly from this application, be it Plexi or "On the Wall". I've installed several X1s with "Painted Wall" screens consisting of only the Top Coat elements listed, or with Goo CRT White Top Coat. If the Client can ante up for the additional cost of a Goo application, I'm assurred of excellent results.....and no mixing. If not, and I must foot the bill, the MM Mix rules, for it costs only $80.00 and delivers 3 times the quantity to first test & train, apply, and (gasp) repair if necessary. For beginning DIY'ers, this has to be a consideration.
I guess profit has a little to do with it too in my case.
But Goo does offer simplicity, and combined with innovative Silver & (Gold is in the offing) Base Coats, and the Plexi sandwich, the extra cost can easily be justified by DIY'er that are not frightened of spending a little more to take it to the umpteenth level. Oh yeah....., walls too.
If one spends even a small sum ($900-$1100.00) for an entry level PJ, the end results must depend on the surface that accepts the image. At worst, the best the above SD/MM application has to offer in the Plexi format cost a mere $225.00 in materials. Add another $125.00 if a Goo Top Coat is desired. $350.00
Let's say you use the SD/MM formula on a 5' x 10' Parkland sheet.
A finished Dry wall wall?
Now lets get serious.
Complete HLVP Spray outfit w/Hoses, Regulator/Filter/ 5 Hp -24 Gallon Compressor, Gravity Feed Gun. At Home Depo. $225 complete
All the paint as described above in the SD/MM format $100.00
108" diagonal Plexi Sheet (approx 102' x 62"0 $125.00
Misc. Supplies (incl.Wood Screen Trim w/felt or velvet) $ 50.00
Total cost for one very excellent DIY Screen $ 500.00
Rent a Spray rig, and subtract $100.00
Buy the rig, and become beloved in your neighborhood.
Is the best worth it? Well, considering this screen can be almost any size you want or that is needed, up to the limits of the availability of the Plexi, or almost NO limit when painting the formula directly on a wall, and that the results outstrip that of both HC & High Gain Mfg screens that come loaded with compromises of one sort or another..............;
But the attached Screen Shot ( excellently rendered & provided by CMRA, a partner in this crime) should allow you and others to decide. The shot involves Nicole Kiddman and her creamy skin tones. get skin tones looking right, and most everything else fall into place.
Pj used is a Z1 Camera is a $1200.00 Oly whose model escapes me.
The background screen is a High Contrast "painted board" screen coated with CMRA's ME paint. ME is short for Misty Evening, a light Grey, Glidden Color that contains Thallo Green to enhance contrast levels beyond what the 'grey' alone can accomplish, but without seriously 'crushing' white levels. It costs about $15.00 worth of paint (incl. a quart of grey tinted Kilz2 Primer) to effect a screen surface that performs well with the PJ used for the Screen Shot, a Z1 with 700 Lumens and a mere 600;1 Contrast ratio. Higher lumen PJs really get great results, and the ME mix has been adopted by many on this forum as the ultimate easy & affordable DIY paint around. And it remains so for those looking for an easy out.
But it is also the basis for starting out on a quest to get the BEST results possible, and in a format and mixture that can be broadly applied to several different applications, and various budgets.
Lightening ME with a cut of Ultra Pure White Flat and including a smidgen of Red Oxide was one route.
The addition of Silver Metallic, Clear Glaze, and UPWF as a 'one coater' came next.
Some gains, some losses.
The MississippiMud Top Coat came along as a result of my trying to duplicate or exceed the deservedly acclaimed attributes of Goo Top Coats for less than 1/2 the costs. The "Pure Silver Metallic" undercoating was again something I championed.
Now, work continues along the lines to enhance contrast levels even more, for although the SD/MM Plexi scheme works beyond all expectations, once again, there seems to be just a teeny weeny deficiency in pure black levels when used with a PJ with poor contrast specs. (...under 1000:1)
Why bother trying to have the entire cake and eat it too? because the affordable PJ is the Future of Home Theater, and until a true 16:9 1388x764 HD-DVI- PJ (LCD or DLP) with 2000:1 CR and at least 1200 Lumens comes along for under $2000.00, the majority of entry level Projector heads will continue to demand a screen option that cost less than their X1, Z1, Panny 300, or any of the other PJs out there that suffer from the 'affordable but deficient' syndrome.
They present the most unique and exciting challange, and to effectively solve thier problems is to create an affordable DIY screen option that offers it's advantages to ALL PJ owners at any price point who have an inkling of what it means to get more bang for the buck than can usually ever be expected. No, it's not free (...use your white or cream colored wall for that...) and the best Plexi w/Goo Top Coat AND Spray Equipment cost about 1/2 of the least expensive "Good Quality" Mfg screens out there, but after seeing what lies beneath this post, I think you will at least want to consider the "Painted Wall" or "Painted Board" applications. Or go 'whole hog' and bite on the SD/MM Plexi design and astound yourself and everybody who ever deigns to grace the confines of your Home Theater.
Do you want to know more? Look in Screens for any Thread or Post listed under CMRA. MississippiMan, or Scoob5555, or under the Thread topic below.http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4&goto=newpost
(Tryg, both forgiveness and thanks in advance for my using (high-jacking?
) your thread. This latest development will be at the next Screen Shootout in at least three different formats and since your partly to blame for it all, you have to live with the consequences!)
Now. At last. Presenting for your viewing pleasure.........,
........the lovely Nicole.