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Samsung DLP -N- series tweaks thread - Page 59

post #1741 of 1751
Thanks for taking the time in answering the question. The problem occurs in all inputs, it also do it with a noise. When it happen i will turn it off and turn it on and it will come with a noise after that, the no image comes up until it reset it self that means it will shutoff and it will come on by it self. Sometimes it will continue working with no problem, but them it will do it again during a couple time. I usually disconnected from the electric plug so it can come on because it wouldn’t work with normal on and off. Yesterday it was very bad and it did it often. Today it happen like two times but now it since working ok again, but it happen all the time. Again thank you for taking the time.

Alex
post #1742 of 1751
when the image freeze the audio still sound with no problem also. Let me know if you need more information?

Thanks!
post #1743 of 1751
What kind of noise? If it is a high-pitched whine like a circular saw, and does not come from the speakers, it could be the bearings in the color wheel failing. If so, the color wheel will need replacement.

Be careful about pulling the plug while the TV is running. That can overheat and blow the lamp. The lamp requires a few minutes of fan-cooling after it is turned off.

Gary
post #1744 of 1751
That is the kind of noise it makes, "high-pitched whine like a circular saw",
do you how much it will cost and where i can find a how to manual?

Thanks again!
post #1745 of 1751
Quote:
Originally Posted by moralesa View Post

Gents,

I I bought a Samsung DLP HLN617WX/XAA from a friend now is doing this anybody knows why?

Thanks!

If you can temporarily correct the problem by "re-booting" the TV (i.e., pull the plug and wait 30 seconds before plugging it back in), but it comes back in while, then you have a known problem with the HLNs, which I dubbed "freeze-melt". The fix isn't cheap as you must, as a minimum, replace the video board and usually also the DLM board (I might have that acronym wrong, but it is second, more complex video board). The main video board is the big one in the back that you see if you pull the back off of the set. The DLM board is in front of it and its installation affects the display alignment you see on the screen. Thus, DLM board replacement is best done by a professional and is not for the faint of heart.

I had this problem in 2005 and it took authorized Samsung service technicians quite some time to correctly diagnose, get warranty repair approval, and install and align the new boards. If you can get the main video board cheap from some source, you can try just replacing it yourself and see if the problem goes away. If you need both boards replaced, you are looking at big bucks and the TV isn't worth that much. Sorry to provide you this depressing news.
post #1746 of 1751
Gary,

First, I must clarify..the yellow saturation ( it is slight), is more accuratly described as "warmer" as you stated. I have a Tantus HLN-4667w ,firmware 314

I am a amatuer enthusiast and I enjoy tinkering. I did read the thread on color wheel adjustments and guess what?...I just had my color wheel replaced (did it myself). The problem is I don't have any equipment to know the correct setting it should now be at. The previous one was 124 and I wound up at 123 based on many users being satisfied with that number. Maybe I will try bewteen 119-124 and see if the yellow is reduced when I bring up the grey steps.
I didn't want to play around too much since I saw somewhere that it shouldn't be too low.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated and thanks for the input.
post #1747 of 1751
My HLN467W bulb is now at 8,800 + hrs. I have had two instances of the Black and White freeze problem that fortunately went away on power cycle. The latest was recently while trying to get it to talk to my Harman Kardon AVR3600 via HDMI-DVI cable (post in AVR 3600 thread). No luck on that yet.
post #1748 of 1751
Quote:
Originally Posted by r.j.muller View Post

My HLN467W bulb is now at 8,800 + hrs. I have had two instances of the Black and White freeze problem that fortunately went away on power cycle. The latest was recently while trying to get it to talk to my Harman Kardon AVR3600 via HDMI-DVI cable (post in AVR 3600 thread). No luck on that yet.

The "freeze-melt" problem doesn't have anything to do with the lamp bulb. You are on the front end of a known problem with the HLN series of DLP HDTVs. The problem will become more frequent and power rebooting will usually correct it until it gets to the point of happening every 15 to 30 minutes. The fix is replacement of both of the video boards, which is more costly than a new HDTV.
post #1749 of 1751
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveetee View Post

Gary,

First, I must clarify..the yellow saturation ( it is slight), is more accuratly described as "warmer" as you stated. I have a Tantus HLN-4667w ,firmware 314

I am a amatuer enthusiast and I enjoy tinkering. I did read the thread on color wheel adjustments and guess what?...I just had my color wheel replaced (did it myself). The problem is I don't have any equipment to know the correct setting it should now be at. The previous one was 124 and I wound up at 123 based on many users being satisfied with that number. Maybe I will try bewteen 119-124 and see if the yellow is reduced when I bring up the grey steps.
I didn't want to play around too much since I saw somewhere that it shouldn't be too low.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated and thanks for the input.

Sorry steveetee, I missed this post.

The original colorwheels came with a default DELAY setting of 223. Apparently, Samsung's newer colorwheels require a different DELAY setting. Make sure you read this post and the 5 subsequent posts about color-wheel delay. It is possible to set it by eye.

Gary
post #1750 of 1751
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSB View Post

Sorry steveetee, I missed this post.

The original colorwheels came with a default DELAY setting of 223. Apparently, Samsung's newer colorwheels require a different DELAY setting. Make sure you read this post and the 5 subsequent posts about color-wheel delay. It is possible to set it by eye.

Gary

My HLN617W default was 224; I lower it to 214 because was the only way to eliminate color wash-out issue. After replaced the color wheel last year bring it back to 223, the colors are more vivid and natural with the new wheel at 223 than at 214. At this time for some reason no wash-out at 223.
post #1751 of 1751
Good to know.

Gary
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