I won't say don't treat the front wall, but it's less important than other places in the room. Also, treating a room is often an ongoing process, especially for DIY'ers. You start with a few panels, and see what that does, then you're in a better position to know what else is needed.
Will do, but I have no idea whether it will matter or not to treat the angled ceiling/wall where the speakers are (not the front wall). Would that have any benefit if I treated it like the front wall, if I deem it necessary.
Thanks Ethan, but I actually meant the entire angled wall (behind the speakers), as if it were an extension of the front wall.
I was already planning bass traps at the junctions.
Well, I would treat it the area *just* behind the speakers. As the distance between them and the wall is essentially nil, an area perhaps only 3" beyond the footprint of the mounted speaker would do it. Sound does emanate from the rear of the speaker cabinet and this treatment will address that particular first reflection.
I was pricing materials to build my acoustic panels and found that the cotton batting that I was planning to put over the rock wool to prevent it from sending insulation dust into the room when the panels are handled is about four times the cost of the polyester batting. Is there any reason the polyester would not be suitable? It seems just as light and airy as the cotton.
whats wrong with skipping the batting part? Is the fiberglass really going to float around the room if nobody is touching it?
Probably not, but for most people, it's a better safe than sorry approach. For me, I didn't have to worry about breathing the stuff, irritating my hands while cramming it into my frames if I wrapped it in poly first.
I don't know if this question has been answered in this thread. The first post says use Linacoustic up to ear height (about 44 inches) for side walls. But what about risers? Is the same height maintained all the way to the back of the room? If so, "ear height" is no longer maintained for rows further back. For a 12 inch riser, there's only 32 inches of Linacoustic for the back row.
The rough idea is to do the walls up to the point that the mirror reflection point is six inches lower than the top of the linacoustic. (The assumption is that imaging, over many seats, is more important than room reverb and spaciousness. You can go higher if you need to reduce room reverb further)
You can use that rough idea to determine how high to put the linacoustic on the walls, combined with knowing how high your mains tweaters are, and where your front row ears are, and where your riser row ears are.
If your mains tweaters are higher than your ears, then having the linacoustic just up to your ears is too short.
If your mains tweaters are the same height as your ears, then having the linacoustic up to your ears is too short, but six more inches would be fine.
If your mains tweaters are under your screen, then having the linacoustic up to your ears is just fine (unless your screen is really way up there).
It really depends on what velvet you are using here. I use stretch velvet in my theater it is over my speakers and does not affect them any more than speaker cloth did. I also have it over my acoustic all treatments.
A solid velvet, non stretch, may absorb more but the stretch one, WHEN STRETCHED if pretty transparent.
I read through the entire thread and have a question that wasn't exactly answered. I understand a bass trap can be nearly any size shape, but both obviously of those dictate effectiveness... Most bass traps get placed into a corner at a 45 degree angle. What is the impact if the bass trap isn't at a 45 degree angle?
For example, how would these (see attachment) bass traps work? They are in the corners of the walls and ceiling. Would they be only marginally effective? What could be done to improve them without having them extend down more than 1 foot from the ceiling?
They'll still work - they just won't have the hump in absorbtion nor extend as deep (depending on thickness) as the same thing stradding the corner. The difference is the distance from the leading edge of the absorbtion to the boundary behind.
They'll still work - they just won't have the hump in absorption nor extend as deep (depending on thickness) as the same thing straddling the corner. The difference is the distance from the leading edge of the absorption to the boundary behind.
So, does 4" of 705 8" from the wall have nearly the same effect as 8" of 705" 4" from the wall? Also, at what point does the thickness of the material hit the point of diminishing returns, or is that material dependent? Is there a rule of thumb for surface area on bass traps? Like less than 4 square ft of surface don't bother?