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Acoustical Treatments Master Thread - Page 214

post #6391 of 9548
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitewolf1 View Post

Nathan,

Are you talking the center speaker or any of the 3 L/C/R speakers? I would think the mirror would show for almost the whole front in that case. Wouldn't it? Not saying I know, just visualizing in my head.

Yes one might end up with a band a foot or two tall across much of the front. Of course, existing screen placement may mean one cannot really treat everywhere the mirror says. Nothing is perfect and I'd choose to be able to see the screen rather than cover part of it with panels

Quote:
Originally Posted by pepar View Post

I'd look at an acoustically transparent screen and place the speakers behind it. That would both allow a bigger screen as well as get the L&R out of cove.

That's a REALLY GOOD idea to explore, if the budget for a new screen exists.
post #6392 of 9548
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitewolf1 View Post

Jasplat its nice to know it at least sounds good to you. Is there treatment behind the fabric(or is it fabric and if so what is it?) on the walls? Soundproofing? Bas traps? It looks great and leaves me more encouraged since I'm stuck with that design or go without.

The only *treatment* in the theater is the zebra carpet (not my choice) and the Berklines....so no, no treatments. That's why I am wanting to experiment with adding some, as it did improve my last theater's acoustics and I'm sure it can improve this theaters too.
post #6393 of 9548
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

Sure, you are stuck with the coves -- but you don't have to put the speakers in them.



...which may be irrelevant, if your ears are higher than the tweeters. But 10 minutes with a friend/spouse/child/neighbor/drinking buddy holding a mirror on the angled ceiling/wall will tell you whether there is an issue. Remember, if you can see the speaker in the mirror while you are seated at your main seating location, and there isn't a thick panel there already, that is a place to add a thick panel -- whether on the ceiling, side wall, angled wall, back wall, front wall. (The converse is true, too: If you have panels in places that are NOT first reflection points, and they are not super thick bass trapping panels, you may want to consider moving them to real first reflection points where they will do more good/less damage.)

In addition to the mirror trick, measures are your friend.


Yep, I used the mirror in my last theater to find FRP's..just hadn't done it in this one. You're right, it's cheap and could be quite telling. Thanks!

-Jason
post #6394 of 9548
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasplat88 View Post

One of my challenges ...

post #6395 of 9548
Thanks for the info Jasplat. I have an AT screen and will build mine accordingly. I wasn't too keen on the zebra look either but the rest looks nice even though varying from textbook. I think treatments where your thinking about may unfortunately be necessary for the both of us. Good luck!
post #6396 of 9548
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitewolf1 View Post

Thanks for the info Jasplat. I have an AT screen and will build mine accordingly. I wasn't too keen on the zebra look either but the rest looks nice even though varying from textbook. I think treatments where your thinking about may unfortunately be necessary for the both of us. Good luck!

After doing the mirror test tonight, I am developing a plan which I think will be a good compromise between acoustic improvement and keeping within the design of the theater. I'll let it be a supprise and post photos when I get it done (I'll be ordering supplies tomorrow). Of course, I won't know exactly what improvement it will make until I take some measurements which I also plan to do, but if nothing else I should benefit from the placebo effect.

BTW, the side walls only had very small areas where there were first reflection points. The ceiling and back wall will benefit from some treatments as well.

The zebra carpet we inherited with the theater has grown on me, the wife hates it. It's not worth the $750-1000 it would cost me to replace....so it's staying. Keep us posted on your theater's progress. Best of luck!
post #6397 of 9548
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasplat88 View Post

After doing the mirror test tonight, I am developing a plan which I think will be a good compromise between acoustic improvement and keeping within the design of the theater. I'll let it be a supprise and post photos when I get it done (I'll be ordering supplies tomorrow). Of course, I won't know exactly what improvement it will make until I take some measurements which I also plan to do, but if nothing else I should benefit from the placebo effect.

BTW, the side walls only had very small areas where there were first reflection points. The ceiling and back wall will benefit from some treatments as well.

The zebra carpet we inherited with the theater has grown on me, the wife hates it. It's not worth the $750-1000 it would cost me to replace....so it's staying. Keep us posted on your theater's progress. Best of luck!

I'll keep you posted! I am looking into the details of design presently and the view of your theater really helps.

Also, How do the side surrounds perform? I noticed their inwalls and appear to angle downward. I have larger ribbon direct speakers from soundsalk and will probably bracket them partially inwall facing straight over the head. Thats my thought at the moment anyway. They are a problem for me but I'm sticking with them and will need to compromise aesthetics for their placement.

I am looking forward toward seeing the results of your acoustic efforts. Good luck and I'll keep my fingers crossed!
post #6398 of 9548
In the plan I'm having to deal with, there is a one-foot deep acoustically transparent false wall along the front where I could place some corner bass traps. Since they don't have to be triangular (as they'd be hidden from view), would it be best to use two 2' wide by 6" deep OC703 (2" thick) square "pillars"?

I could probably do regular 17x17x24" triangular "chunk" traps in the back corners. I need some "aesthetic value" there.

I have 10' high ceilings in the plan I'm dealing with.

Any other suggestions than that? Thx.
post #6399 of 9548
I searched and couldn't find anything on this which suprises me, but did anyone else notice a relatively strong smell from their linacoustic? Mine smells almost fishy and is really quite strong in the basement and in the garage where the roll is.

It wasn't very noticeable while in the plastic bag unless up close, but is now that it is open and exposed to the air.
post #6400 of 9548
Quote:


that is a place to add a thick panel

Let's not go over the top absorbing everthing...diffusion is more likely required. What speakers you using?

Absorption is not the solution to every problem and is over used and over used.
post #6401 of 9548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaggeto View Post

I searched and couldn't find anything on this which suprises me, but did anyone else notice a relatively strong smell from their linacoustic? Mine smells almost fishy and is really quite strong in the basement and in the garage where the roll is.

It wasn't very noticeable while in the plastic bag unless up close, but is now that it is open and exposed to the air.

My roll does not have any smell. I really don't think it should smell; it is intended to be installed inside air ducts after all. Maybe you got a bad batch? I would contact Johns Manville.
post #6402 of 9548
It is possible you'll have a smell ... it's put in plastic at the factory and hasn't had time to air out. It will be fine in a few days.
post #6403 of 9548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaggeto View Post

I searched and couldn't find anything on this which suprises me, but did anyone else notice a relatively strong smell from their linacoustic? Mine smells almost fishy and is really quite strong in the basement and in the garage where the roll is.

It wasn't very noticeable while in the plastic bag unless up close, but is now that it is open and exposed to the air.

No smell here. Sounds like yours sat in a damp environment and developed mold. Not good. I'd spray it with something to kill the mold. Mold in the home can be a health hazard.
post #6404 of 9548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaggeto View Post

I searched and couldn't find anything on this which suprises me, but did anyone else notice a relatively strong smell from their linacoustic? Mine smells almost fishy and is really quite strong in the basement and in the garage where the roll is.

It wasn't very noticeable while in the plastic bag unless up close, but is now that it is open and exposed to the air.

I cant speak to linacoustic but when I opened the 703 it had a strong ammonia like smell that dissipated after a few days.. I've seen others comment on similar experiences.

The odor is most likely the binder used that was not completely baked off/cured in the manufacturing process, the remainder is outgassing and producing the smell and should dissipate over time.
post #6405 of 9548
Quote:
Originally Posted by sathyakamaraj View Post

got the answer from DC...Going with 1" Linacoustic
Product Thickness Mounting Density 125hz 250hz 500hz 1000hz 2000hz 4000hz NRC Size / Quantity Price Sq.Ft
703, plain 1" (25mm) on wall 3.0 pcf (48 kg/m3) 0.11 0.28 0.68 0.9 0.93 0.96 0.7 OC 2'X4'X1"X48 Pieces $236.00 384 Sq.ft
Linacoustic RC 1" (25mm) 0.08 0.31 0.64 0.84 0.97 1.03 0.7 JM 4'X100'X1" $220.00 400 Sq.ft


Acoustic ( half @$$ Acoustic Plan - doing only 1" & not complete room)
1. Screen Wall Complete with the above material - and GOM ( or any other alternate Fabric - GOM is expensive )
2. Side Walls & Real Walls - 30" height from bottom of the room - throughout the room
3. After complete setup if there is any issue with too much reflection (ofcoz there will be)- I will work on Fabric Frames..If not just paint and wood work...

Questions:
1. OC or Linacoustic ( Price is almost same )
Interms of performance both looks pretty same -
2. OC or Linacoustic
Interms of installation : I feel that Linacoustic will be easy to cut and can run long in length. And also less itchy (i dont know)

Help me out !

I believe the Linacoustic is 1.5lb pcf and the OC is 3lb pcf so I would assume the have different absorbtion properties for sound.

I will have some leftover Linacoustic and wanted to create some corner"super chunk" bass traps with it but I'm not sure if it will work very well compared to OC703 or OC705.

Does anyone have any comments regarding this?
post #6406 of 9548
So i havn't read all 300+ pages. I'm in the middle of building my theater in the basement. Here's the general stats

Room Size: 15' front wall, 27' side walls, 9' high
sitting distance 10'/16'/19' (table)

my question is, since i'm about to finish up framing: instead of hanging the sound absorbers/diffusers or what ever the owen corning 703 with fabric around it is, can i build them into the wall so they are flush with the drywall?

I would prefer to have a cleaner look

thanks
pete
post #6407 of 9548
Nope ... not if you want any form of sound isolation at all. But...there is a way.
post #6408 of 9548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Erskine View Post

But...there is a way.

Hmmm...very cryptic. What is that way?
post #6409 of 9548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Pete View Post

Hmmm...very cryptic. What is that way?

Room within a room.
post #6410 of 9548
No, not room within a room. Sorry I can't be more specific.
post #6411 of 9548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Erskine View Post

No, not room within a room. Sorry I can't be more specific.

Can you tell us WHEN you can be more specific?
post #6412 of 9548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Pete View Post

Hmmm...very cryptic. What is that way?

Please take note he said not with sound isolation because the lack of the drywall would allow sound to travel out of the room much easier.

I believe they would still help improve the SQ of the room, but would only absorb from the front rather than the front and sides. So less overall impact.
post #6413 of 9548
There are various techniques, tricks, methods, we've developed over the years which we would prefer to keep proprietary. Many of those have to do with how we get the treatments installed without looking like we have treatments installed. I do believe, however, I've posted enough "in the rough" photos for it to be sorted out by a clever lad.
post #6414 of 9548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Erskine View Post

Nope ... not if you want any form of sound isolation at all. But...there is a way.

I can't speak for Dennis, but I had an idea (I haven't tested it, so use at your own risk):

If you strip your ceiling or wall down to nothing but studs (or joists) and the drywall behind the studs (or floor above the joists), you could drywall the inside of that cavity, perhaps decoupling that new drywall w/ standoff clips or strips. Then, you could fill in the newly drywalled, slightly reduced in volume cavity w/ whatever fiberglass or other treatment you want, and then cover the whole thing w/ GOM or equivalent.

It's a lot of work, but I might give it a shot, as I currently have everything exposed in my theater room.

John
post #6415 of 9548
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnbomb View Post

I can't speak for Dennis, but I had an idea (I haven't tested it, so use at your own risk):

If you strip your ceiling or wall down to nothing but studs (or joists) and the drywall behind the studs (or floor above the joists), you could drywall the inside of that cavity, perhaps decoupling that new drywall w/ standoff clips or strips. Then, you could fill in the newly drywalled, slightly reduced in volume cavity w/ whatever fiberglass or other treatment you want, and then cover the whole thing w/ GOM or equivalent.

It's a lot of work, but I might give it a shot, as I currently have everything exposed in my theater room.

John

This has me scratching my head. Doc Pete never mentioned anything about needing acoustical isolation, only acoustical treatments. If he doesn't care about isolation, he most certainly can build treatments flushed into the walls. And, if he has the space and if the walls are already constructed to the point where redoing them is too much of a pain, it can be done as a room within a room, i.e. mount the treatments, install studs/furring strips and cover the entire area with an acoustically transparent material
post #6416 of 9548
Some interesting stuff posted here, will look into some of this in the future.
post #6417 of 9548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Erskine View Post

There are various techniques, tricks, methods, we've developed over the years which we would prefer to keep proprietary. Many of those have to do with how we get the treatments installed without looking like we have treatments installed. I do believe, however, I've posted enough "in the rough" photos for it to be sorted out by a clever lad.



Frank
post #6418 of 9548
post #6419 of 9548
So i don't know the proper terminology, but now that i think about it the panels i wanted to place flush with the drywall would be used for diffusing early reflection (i think diffusing is taking the source sound and when it hits the material it scatters it in multiple directions).
So i understand why Dennis wouldn't want to give away all his tricks since that's how he makes money... i understand that as a professional myself.
But i think to used my idea i would need to drywall a "slot" or recessed area for the diffuser to sit into. That is to block out sound from traveling through the diffuser to the next room and vice-versa.
I'm trying to do what acoustic work that i can do/understand/afford. I"m not able to be as through as i would like. I'm afraid of spending that much money trying and overlooking some small hole where the sound will still be able to communicate to an ajoining room and have it leak like a hole in a boat.

Pete
post #6420 of 9548
Diffusors ... different animal. You can get a diffusor (Perf-Sorber from Questai.com) which is 2"; but, beyond that most diffusors need to be on the order of 4" deep to be worth anything.
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