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Dwin TV3 Owners Thread - Page 7

post #181 of 2662
Thread Starter 
Looking at the throw angle of the crescent, I would say a standard lens hood would not work. Too wide. What we use on cameras when the lens hood does not help with a flare is what is called a "French Flag" This may help if properly adjusted but why go to all that trouble when a simple matte is what is called for and will work.

Yes, the lens projects a light spill ring but is far out of reach of the main image so we never see it on the screen or a reasonable distance from it.

What I have done is very simple and straight forward and very effective. I only had spill on the ceiling and none noticeable anywhere else except for the far right wall which is flat black duette Hunter Douglas shade. And unless I put up a white card I really can't see it on the shade either. I think if your entire room was projector screen white, you'd see it all around the projector. Anyway, the matte design works well and all traces of lige spill in front of the PJ is gone. I determined the actual position of the matte by displaying a full field screen and then lowered a piece of card down until I just saw the shadow begin to cut off the image. Then I backed off just a small amount and marked it.

OK here's an image of what I did with simple gaffers tape.

The back side of the tape has another piece of half moon stuck to it to prevent the sticky side from touching the lens. The tape does not touch the lens glass.

Also, there are no scratches or mars on my lens or any I can see on the inner elements.
post #182 of 2662
dwinheads...I hooked up my new bravo to the tv3/panamorph and set it to dvi 480p and lo and behold it worked! dWIN said no dvi connection gives you aspect control but with the bravo at 480p it does..which lets me use the panamorph...which lets the whole shebang put out one bad momma of an image. Really clean and smoother. .quite noticible on the 159inch screen which shows all... the new settings are ;contrast 85
brightness 40
color 48
tint 60
sharpness 0
post #183 of 2662
Wow Craig, a dust blob right off the bat. Hadn't of that yet.

Yours is upgraded if you can feed it 720P or 1080i and see a picture. The non-upgraded units just output static with these feeds.

Rob, when I used to compete in archery tournaments regularly, there were people that made their own black hoods. Most took an empty 20oz soft drink bottle and cut it in half and cut the ends off. Then spray paint the inside a flat black and use adhesive velcrow to hold it in place. I may try to make one that wraps almost all the way around the lens to see if I like it, but would still like to hear what DWIN's solution is.

As for the filter, I'm thinking about using a sponge-like filter on the inside of the front vent and see if that works alright. I saw the sponge filter used to line the intake for a riding lawnmower and got the idea. Now I just have to find a larger one to cut to fit. Or I could get the thin flat sponge and tape it inside or something.
post #184 of 2662

Looks like about the top one third of the lens is blocked. I like your idea better than the lens cap, as I worry about heat build up with the cap on.

I'm going to use your technique this weekend. I'm having so much fun with my TV3 I just don't want to send it back, and I'm waiting for someone to get the Dwin fix to be sure it works.


Very nice, I'm glad it's working for you.
post #185 of 2662
That's a nice fix there Don. Nice and simple, just like you said it would be.

And you are sure this isn't having any negative effect on the actual image, right?
post #186 of 2662
Thinking about this further, it occurred to me that there could be potential issues with this fix. Despite using black tape, I think it is still possible, if not likely, that some light will be reflected back into the lens which could, theoretically, compromise the image on the screen.

post #187 of 2662

Originally posted by Thomas Marshall
One other thing, just in case any of you TV3 owners haven't purchased either the D1 or 931, RUN TO THE STORE AND BUY ONE NOW!!!

Thomas, we are waiting for your recommendation on which one to get.

Don, thanks for posting. I had a similar idea. I took a white piece of paper and placed it over the lens with the projector on. Then I marked the outside edge of the lens and where the projected image is. I was then going to get something like black paper and cut a copy of this pattern out of the black paper and tape it in front of the lens. Same idea as the cut lens cap, but not ruining my lens cap in the process. I just haven't taken the time to buy a paper that would work. Thought about using the sample of Melotone (GOM alternative, but a little stiffer) to do this. Anything could work, but minimizing reflection back into the lens is the key.

The light spill is most noticable in dark scenes. Try watching something like Signs and the light spill will be more noticable while watching.
post #188 of 2662
You will have my recommendation on Monday
post #189 of 2662
Thread Starter 
"And you are sure this isn't having any negative effect on the actual image, right?"

Well, that depends on who wants to judge. You know what I mean?

I put up a white field and A-B'd it. Then I put up a couple of images off a DVD I had and A-B'd it and if anything, I would say the whites stayed the same and maybe if I fudged a bit I could say the blacks got just a bit blacker but, heck that is so subjective. For all practical purposes, the image looks the same. I'm not in the habit of making a big deal over hair splitting.

Now the difference in my mood light pattern is significant on the ceiling. That crescent pattern made a big out of place mar in the lights streams pattern I had created and now it's back to the way I had it before TV3.

What I did takes all but 5 minutes. The reason I did not use the lens cap is I wanted to keep it intact until I find a replacement. Then I may cut one up.

After an hour of a white field on the screen the tape was just above room temperature so I am not worried about solar effect on heat buildup. The blockage of the spill area is not a significantly bright light. Now had I put a lens cap on while that white field was up I think it could do some heat damage,. probably to the plastic cap. What ever you do, I would make sure you do not use a white card or white reflective back into the lens as that may affect contrast ratio. Keep your matte as flat black as possible. I would think you would want it to be light eating, not reflective.
post #190 of 2662

Yours is upgraded if you can feed it 720P or 1080i and see a picture. The non-upgraded units just output static with these feeds.

This is not necessarily true. Some non-upgraded TV3s will do 720P and 1080i with DVI. I get all scan rates with the DVI out on a Sony HD200, although I sometimes get a bit of static at the top of the picture when changing scan rates.
post #191 of 2662
I'm having no luck getting into the service menu to do my Avia setup. Can someone help me with this? The codes just get me to a DVI input when I hit 0.

post #192 of 2662
scottsol, is the Sony HDCP compliant? I think the D1 will work with the non-upgraded TV3s since it is not HDCP compliant.

kraig, I have the same problem trying to get into the service codes.
post #193 of 2662
Are you guys using the original remote. I had problems learning the codes into my MX700. Once I learned it properly I set up a macro and it has worked fine ever since.

post #194 of 2662
I think an accurate test to be sure you have the new board, and it works, is to test DirecTV channel 201 and see if you get a picture.

Another test is the new Samsung 931, it requires HDCP encrypted display devices, if you can pass 720p and/or 1080i to your TV3, you're in business.

My dealer tested both the above methods on my TV3 before he shipped it to me.

Also, if you call Dwin and give them the serial number I'm sure they can tell you if it has the new board and what firmware version you have.

On another subject:

I find Dwin to be an excellent support company, I have called them several times and usually get through on my first call, and if I don't, they always get back to me that day.

As an example:

Apparently my PJ got bounced around during shipment, and the optical alignment was moved, causing a small yellow light glow at the bottom of the screen.

I called Dwin and they said I could send it in for a fix or they would be happy to walk me through the optical re-alignment over the phone, that is if I was comfortable with doing that.

I was, so I dropped the PJ from the ceiling, placed it on a table, took the cover off, armed myself with a 2.5 mm Allen Wrench and then called Rodger who was not available at the time.

Five minutes later, the phone rang and it was Rodger, and in less than ten minutes he instructed me on how to re-align the optical path. It was a piece of cake and the PJ is perfect now.

I'm really glad I didn't send it in, my guess is many companies wouldn't have done that, they would have required the PJ to be returned for repair.
post #195 of 2662
That's definitely the type of thing I like to hear regarding support from a smaller company.

The fact you didn't have to send it in is a huge advantage. Sending back a new projector would have really been depressing.
post #196 of 2662
Thread Starter 
More reports on light spill-

After using my fix on the lens to rid the ceiling crescent for a couple of days I discovered more problems with additional light spill that I previously not noticed. It's not totally in the dark yet! The crescent was bright enough that it overpowered this secondary spill but now with that gone I can see this when the scene is very dark on the screen. When it is normal average brightness the secondary spillage is completely over powered.

What this looks like is a faint glow above the projector where some light seems to be coming from all the way around the perimeter of the case. We all knew about the back spill from the air exhaust but this is about 1/3 brightness as that and is from the front and two sides.

Is this a serious problem? Of Course not! It is just an area to tweak for a better installation. In my travels, I have noticed one projector that seemed to be completely clear of all light spillage and that was the Yamaha I plan to take a closer look next time I see this Yamaha to see what is different. Maybe I just didn't see the spillage and it was there. Those rooms were all black so that may be the solution.
post #197 of 2662
I just traded up from a Yamaha LPX-500. It had no light spill at all. Sure the picture is better on the TV3 but that is one of only a few things that it wins in head to head. Fortunately it is the most important thing. As for the Yamaha DPX models I have to assume they don't spill light either?

The TV3 projector housing seems a little half ass to me, especially in comparison to the LPX. It is nothing pretty to look at, run of the mill plastic and as we all know wins no awards for it's exacting tolerance (light spill). My only other gripe is the noise. I'm damn surprised that this unit couldn't be quiter since all of the connector circuits are moved to the controller.

All this being said I'm pleased, thank god for the great picture.

post #198 of 2662
I do have to agree with the noise issue. Definitely not the quietest unit around. It's a little louder than a (properly working) Sharp 10k, and a little quieter than the InFocus 7200.

I don't have a problem with the housing...I think it looks cool in the blue.

My order for the DWIN goes in this week!

post #199 of 2662
Not good.

I bought my DVI cable for my D1 to the DWIN from Pacific Cable as well. I did get the dual link though...not sure if that make a difference (I doubt it).
post #200 of 2662
Rob -

I assume the dual link cable works OK (doesn't have the extra pins)

post #201 of 2662
If it does work, I lucked out because I thought that either the dual link or single link would work with the Dwin. This is the first that I have heard that it doesn't.

Thank goodness the Pacific Cable is cheap. Maybe they will give you credit if you buy a dual link cable from them?
post #202 of 2662

It fits my D1 but doesn't fit my TV3. The cable has two pins above and below the bar, but both the TV3's inputs have no pin holes above or below the bar.

It looks like you have a DVI-I cable. Get a DVI-D (single or dual link is OK) and you'll be fine.
post #203 of 2662
I will order the dual link cable (DVI-D), unless someone else had a suggestion
post #204 of 2662
Good call Scott.
post #205 of 2662
I can confirm that the dual link DVI-D(male to male) works on the TV3(I am using one now(Radeon 7500 to Dwin TV3 via DVI), and I just ordered another to use with my Zenith HD520 box that I just ordered).

DVI looks great on this machine!
post #206 of 2662
I spoke to support at Dwin regarding the single or dual link choice. As suspected they support single link and not the dual. You can buy the dual link but if your paying any significant $$ for the option don't waste your money. I also confirmed with Zenith and the folks at V Inc. that their devices support single link and not dual. I just used a couple of dvi-d single cables from work. Over the last few years a lot of flat panels have been put on desktops still using the vga cable. 50 or more of these flat panels came with an extra dvi-d single link cable and these have accumulated in a box. These have worked fine for both the Zenith Sat520 and the Bravo D1.

In short you want DVI-D single link cables.

Just got done watching Unfaithful. Quiet movie. Great picture, gotta build a box around this noisy thing....

Any ideas on the box?

post #207 of 2662
Hush Box .

Not exactly cheap though (or particularly good looking).
post #208 of 2662
One more thing on the single link/dual link cable, a question really.. what devices do use the dual link? I've yet to come across one.

post #209 of 2662
Thanks Rob. Nice boxes, hefty prices. I'll probably spec something and have a metal shop fabricate it. If I go with a brushed sheetmetal it could contain some light as well. Probably cost $150.

post #210 of 2662
No prob Kraig.

Looking at that site again, I wonder if those boxes would work with the Dwin mount since it is so flush with the ceiling?
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