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How are RCA F38310 owners doing? - Page 38

post #1111 of 1199
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbocup View Post

It rolls over at 100000 like the odo on an old car. Add 100,000 to your number.

Perhaps... but that equates (if my math is correct) to the TV connected to power for 12 years.

104988 / 24 = 4374.5 days
4374.5 / 365 = 11.98 years
post #1112 of 1199
Is there still anyone here that is still using this beautiful tv?
post #1113 of 1199
Heck yes! Still the biggest TV in the house. It isn't the most used TV in the house, but it's still the best.
post #1114 of 1199
The thing that bugged me about mine was way too much overscan. Once you have a flat panel and see the entire picture it makes it hard to tolerate overscan.
post #1115 of 1199
I just gave away my working unit. I measured its electrical use, then got a Samsung 42" LCD LED TV.
post #1116 of 1199
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsilvers View Post
The thing that bugged me about mine was way too much overscan. Once you have a flat panel and see the entire picture it makes it hard to tolerate overscan.
Actually... that was easily resolved in the service menu. Performed geometry and overscan adjustments on mine back in 2002.
post #1117 of 1199
Heya Matt, I know this is old but I would love to have this info as mine is getting a little out of focus also.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt L View Post

Well after some digging here I found answers to both my questions, how to set the focus, I read it's a two step process with 2 controls, interesting. Also it doesn't not look that daunting to adj. the overscan, may attempt it in the next few days.
post #1118 of 1199
Post #299.

Two access holes on the back of the TV. Be careful.
post #1119 of 1199
My 38310 was replaced as my primary TV by a 46" Toshiba g300u which I'm nuts about. the RCA is sitting in the spare bedroom, powered up and awaiting its next mission. It took the new Toshiba to reveal the decline in brightness and possible focus loss that the years of great performance have produced in my 38310. I'm still going to try the geometry and focus adjustments discussed here. It's been and continues to be a great TV. But, as Ratman and now I can attest, there's life after the 38310 and, for both of us, that led to a couple of often overlooked LCD's from Sharp and Toshiba.
post #1120 of 1199
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCA don View Post

It took the new Toshiba to reveal the decline in brightness and possible focus loss that the years of great performance have produced in my 38310.

I'll back that statement.
Although I loved the picture quality of the F38310 (real blacks especially), after I got the Sharp, I didn't realize how much the focus and brighness had gone slightly "off whack".

I guess the trade-offs (comparing LCD to CRT) are a substantially less weight and footprint, larger screen size, more inputs, more/better features, etc. All for a lot less money than I spent in 2002 for the F38310 and the matching stand. Which BTW, I still use with my Sharp and looks great (I only had to remove the locking pins from the top).
post #1121 of 1199
I have been through this thread once and partially again looking to find how to enter the service mode to see if I can reduce the overscan, sorry I would love a new tv but being on a disability there isn't much left at the end of the month if anything.

So yes I have been into the part with the 3 fingers thing but didn't find how to get into the menu from there to make changes..

My service date 11/08/2002
in service counter is 2462 or 11.6 years

I also found these errors

Errors Stored in EEPROM

Television errors:
01/02/1970 at 09:38 code 0x010000b0
04/06/2010 at 20:04 code 0xfff08820
04/06/2010 at 20:18 code 0xfff08820

Digital Module errors:
11/10/2002 at 19:00 code 0x010000b0
11/18/2002 at 01:22 code 0x010000b0
01/10/2003 at 02:54 code 0x010000b0

Anyone know what they all mean?

Thanks
post #1122 of 1199
Read from post #729... process is explained.

don't worry about the eeprom error codes.
post #1123 of 1199
Ok I must be some kind of an idiot.

The tv has been on for a few hours now, I just the I use the ch down and direct tv buttons and I get the bar across the bottom with the version of I think it is

Version Number: 04.14 P: 0 V: 0

Post 731 says I need some kind of a publication that is no longer available.

In post 735 it says to pres VOL + to change the P: 0 to 76, all it seems to do for me is bring up an ugly volume control on the top of the screen and blank out the screen, I have tried this on the panel on the tv and on the remote and I can't get the P: 0 to change.
post #1124 of 1199
It's been a long time for me using the service menus, but keep trying and be careful.
The bottom line is that you can't change anything until you get enter the "76" passcode.
I don't know what you may be doing incorrectly.

Once you get past the passcode, the following post explain the parameters to adjust position adjustments. Just read more of the posts in this thread.

http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showpo...58&postcount=5

Found this from an earlier post:
Horizontal size (P:05)
Horizontal position (P:04)
Vertical size (P:11)
Veritical position (P:10 course)
Vertical position (P:13 fine)
pincushion/parabola (P:07)
Top corners - pincushion (P:09)
post #1125 of 1199
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratman View Post
It's been a long time for me using the service menus, but keep trying and be careful.
The bottom line is that you can't change anything until you get enter the "76" passcode.
Wow! I am so glad to have stumbled upon this thread. I've had my F38310 right at 10 years and it's still performing like a champ, but unfortunately it is pretty fuzzy around text and it needs some adjustments in the worst way.

Ratman, I was able to pull up the service menu based on this but I experienced what someone else mentioned - I can get it to "76", but then what? Nothing happens. I try all sorts of buttons on the remote and tv itself but can't seem to "enter" that selection. Does anyone have any idea on what to try?

I would love to get this corrected to these settings and see if it can make it a little longer before finally upgrading - it's been a great set and I can't believe it's been 10 years!
post #1126 of 1199
Somewhere in this thread is the info you need on getting into the service menu, but you'll have to search. There is a link to a .pdf file here or online somewhere with all the various settings spelled out, been too long have no idea where I got it.

Anyway, you do not need the service menu to adjust focus. there are 2 controls on the back right of the set that you can tweak for focus. They interact substantially so it will take a fair amount of time and a large mirror but you can get a very sharp image back by this method as long as there is nothing else wrong with the set.

Mine is relegated to the basement for occasional use or when family comes over with game boxes, I really much prefer my other displays over the 38310, since all of them are bigger.
post #1127 of 1199
There is no "enter". Once the V: is set to 76, you can then change the P: value.

Refer to the info in the link provided in post #1124.
post #1128 of 1199
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt L View Post

Anyway, you do not need the service menu to adjust focus. there are 2 controls on the back right of the set that you can tweak for focus. They interact substantially so it will take a fair amount of time and a large mirror but you can get a very sharp image back by this method as long as there is nothing else wrong with the set.

Thanks Matt! I did some research last night and found the .pdf - now, the trouble will be getting to the back of the monster. We've had it in a entertainment center from pottery barn that you would think was designed for this exact model tv - very deep and the dimensions fit it perfectly. Only problem is trying to get it turned to work on the back. Definitely going to give it a whirl. Thanks!
post #1129 of 1199
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratman View Post

There is no "enter". Once the V: is set to 76, you can then change the P: value.

Thanks Ratman - I was doing everything correct, but it was just the channel up and down keys on my original RCA remote are not responding, so it seemed like nothing was happening.

On a hunch, I tried to use my DirecTV remote and sure enough that did the trick. It worked great and I was able to correct a lot of the things that didn't look right. Now I just need to tweak the focus at the panel in the back and we'll be good to go. Thanks again.
post #1130 of 1199
I had never looked at this before and it's been 10 years. Wow.

post #1131 of 1199
If you are in the St. Louis area and would like a free, full functioning 38310, please contact me. You have to carry it away and, as you already know, it is heavy. But I will include the original remote and I believe I printed out the manual at some point.
post #1132 of 1199
I have one in southern Oregon if anyone wants it PM me for details.
I am moving to a house off-grid and my power setup will not be able to support this wonder.
I still feel that this is the best set for HD video games when properly calibrated. It will be sad to see it go but someone should enjoy it at least instead of having it gather dust.
post #1133 of 1199
Snap!

I acquired one of these last year. In April, it did a little picture shimmie, turned into an ozone generator, then went black. I decided to move the giant ass whore of a TV to the garage until I could get rid of it.

A couple of weeks later, curiosity got the best of me, and I decided to plug her in and see what she would do. Well, she fired right up. No problems, great picture, no ozone. So I moved her giant ass back into her rightful spot in the living room.

Now she's gotten snappy.

Every once in a while, while watching, there is a snap and a screen flicker. If that doesn't occur while watching, then most of the time it will when powering it off. In those instances, I can see a little spark from inside the set, looks to be near the back of the tube assembly itself. I am no electronics expert, so I'm not sure.

Any advice? Am I looking at a power board issue? Or maybe a tube discharge issue?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.
post #1134 of 1199
"giant ass whore"?
Great 1st post.

C'mon... it could be a number of issues. If your are very technical and patient, buy a service manual and try to repair. If not, recycle it.

Even if you think you know what you're doing, taking the back cover off is the easiest part. Isolating the problem, disassembly to replace a board/component is not for a novice. Reassembly is a trickier part.

If it were that easy to repair, this thread would be more lively.
post #1135 of 1199
ReverendDarkness, your flyback transformer is obviously the culprit. It's the most common problem with RCA TV'S. Open the set up (unplug it first if you don't wanna die) and check the part number on the flyback transformer. But it should be a 250789 (T14700). If the TV still starts up, its always possible to us silicon to stop the High Voltage leak but i would not recommend it..
post #1136 of 1199
Quote:
Originally Posted by neccrttv View Post

ReverendDarkness, your flyback transformer is obviously the culprit. It's the most common problem with RCA TV'S.

You could be correct, but a sick flyback is not a common problem with an F38310 (DTC306) specifically. So I would be cautious to state it's the "obvious" problem without personally seeing the set/symptoms.

Also, as a precaution, just because you unplug the set doesn't mean you can't get "zapped".
post #1137 of 1199
^You're right, its not a common problem. Rereading his post, it could be the tube that's shorting also, since it comes from the back of the tube and not the circuit.

Like Ratman says, DO NOT OPEN THE COVER UNLESS YOU KNOW HOW TO DISCHARGE THE TUBE!
Especially if theres a high voltage leak. These TV's don't discharge themselves and you will be shocked if you touch the High voltage lead.
post #1138 of 1199
Hi, all! Glad to find a forum for RCA F38310 owners!

Mine started misbehaving a few weeks back and I made a very amateurish mistake when disassembling the set. I disconnected the black and white wires from the plastic block on the kine driver board (circuit board on the back of the tube) without labeling which goes in which hole. The holes are labeled "A" and "B" which is no help. I've searched through the pictures that I took of the set when taking it apart and all of those I could find on the net and can't find one at the correct angle to help me. Heat sinks always hide the connection. I've purchased the service manual and that wasn't any help. I've called local repair shops and they refuse to help unless I pay $100+ for a service call.

Would anyone be willing to take a look in their set and let me know which wire goes in which hole? A picture would be even better! If so, I would be eternally greatful! Thanks in advance!!!
post #1139 of 1199
Bought mine in 2002, gave it to my daughter and her husband 4 years ago, they use it everyday, never had any issues with it, picture still looks good.
post #1140 of 1199
What's the best way to connect an HDMI device to one of these?
I have an Acer AR1600 HTPC I would like to connect to it.
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